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skydoc_17

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  1. skydoc_17

    Brakes

    skydoc_17 replied to pick's topic in Watering Hole

    Kevlar Brake Pads were designed for "Superbikes" (Motorcycles that have the ability to go between 150 and 200 MPH) at those speeds, regular brake pad material is barely functional. The problem for 1st and 2nd Gen. owners is that our bikes don't go fast enough to need the advantage of the Kevlar pads. When used on our bikes at the speeds we run at, here is the disadvantage that the Kevlar pads cause. The Kevlar pads transfer a tremendous amount of heat to the rotors, on the 1st Gen. bikes, this causes rotor warpage. On the 2nd Gen bikes, it causes the rotors to "glaze" (work harden the outer most surface of the rotor) At this point the pads can no longer "bite" into the rotors and stop your motorcycle properly. This is also why you could have "squeaking brakes". The rotors on the 2nd Gens. are much harder than the rotors on the 1st Gens. Squidly is correct, the EBC Sintered HH pads provide EXCELLENT stopping power with little ill effects on the 2nd Gen bikes. On the 1st Gen. bikes, they also provide EXCELLENT stopping power but the price you pay for this extra stopping power is increased rotor wear. The way I feel about this is, If my bike stops in time to avoid an accident, I will buy a new rotor when I need to. I do not want to be the guy that has the motorcycle with the best looking rotors at the salvage yard due to an accident I was not able to stop in time for! If anyone is interested in EBC HH pads for their 1st or 2nd Gen bikes, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, I have both the Camp Fuel and Seafoam here at the shop in gallon cans, the cleaning ingredient that is in Seafoam is Naphtha along with a lubricant. The Camp Fuel is just Naphtha, Period! If I have Carb. parts that are just nasty dirty, I start out with the Camp fuel. I also do the Carb. Float Bowl Flush with the Camp Fuel. On my own bike, I use only the Seafoam in the gas. The camp fuel is an excellent cleaner, but unless your Carbs. are really gummed up, it is a bit strong, and there is no lube in it. Just my thoughts, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    As most of you know, I have been laid up after my back surgery. Well, I am getting around a bit better now, and have been putting in the shop although I am still not allowed to officially work on motorcycles yet. I took a set of louvers from the side covers of my 87'VR and installed the Sheet Metal inserts I had gotten last year. (A BIG Thanks To Randy For The Inserts) I mounted a string of blue LED's in the inserts and put a back on them to protect the LED's from the heat and I also installed a string of blue LED's in the front air scoop as well. Take a look at the pics, and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, If you could take a moment and fill in the part of your profile where it tells everyone what state you live in, perhaps one of the members in your area would be happy to stop by and help you with your VR! Usually when these bikes have been sitting for a while the Carbs. get gummed up. A few cans of Seafoam and a few nice long rides is the best medicine to clean them out. This will not cure worn out parts, or modify adjustments that need to be made but this time of the year, with the weather sooo good, any ride time is good ride time. Good luck with your project, almost ALL of the First Genners have been where you are at one time or another. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    I have had more than one person bring their bike into the shop complaining of shifting problems. What I have found out is, Adjust the shifter so you just have to lift the front of your boot up as apposed to lifting your entire foot off of the foot peg. I have adjusted 20 or more bike shifters because of this. After the adjustment, the bike always shifted smoother and crisper. To check this, put the bike on the center stand, left foot on the foot peg, rock the front of your foot to move the shifter. If you are lifting your foot to actuate the shift, the shifter is in the wrong position! To adjust the shifter, loosen the 10MM bolt, pull the shifter off of the spline, rotate the shifter counter clock wise a spline or two, re tighten the 10MM bolt and retest the position again. Hope this helps, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Good Man! Thanks for taking me up on my offer! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Start your bike, Let it idle on the side stand for about 15 minutes, that puppy ought to be coming on about then! With the engine running, and moving thru traffic, it is pretty hard to hear it cut on and off. But in your drive way, at idle, you should have NO problem hearing it turn on. To test the fan motor, pull the plug and put 12 volts to it. ( I use a battery charger) 2 Jumper wires from the battery will do the same thing. The only other thing it could be would be the thermostatic switch (fan Switch) that kicks the fan on when the temp. gets too high. Living in FLA. I can't believe that your fan has never come on. Try the kick stand test, then let us know what happened. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, I am one of those people that ABSOLUTELY will not have anyone tell what I am going to be doing or not doing on this planet, Period! But on more than one occasion, I have been so excited about what has been posted on this site, I have allowed my children and my wife to access this site as have MANY of the members here. So it is for that reason that we have all loosely agreed that we would be respectful to each other's family members and not post things that are pornographic, insult our fellow members political views, or tread heavily on each others religious beliefs. Pretty much anything else goes, Because I have not met you yet or had a chance to chat with you about these great motorcycles we both own, I feel that it would be MY LOSS if you left so soon. Perhaps you would accept my invitation and stick around a bit longer, making it a win, win for both of us. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, This is the last thread you started. (Except for the one we are posting in now) http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49898 Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    You Can Count Jean and Myself In, Earl and Jean
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Karl, Congratulations on your new to you 87'VR! Having one myself, I think they are the best of the MKII First Gens. Get That puppy up on the center stand and get that rear tire off, air it up, and ease her into the bath tub so you can figure out where the leak is. Heck, it might be as simple as a bad valve stem. Do you have the Gold and Cream or the Elegant Brown and Birch Brown? I think the MKII 87'VR rolls down the hiway just fine. You have more storage room then the MKI 83' to 85' VR's. All of the First Gen. bikes get a little "sloppy" in the front end due to worn out front fork springs and steering head bearings that are out of adjustment but these items can be easily addressed. When ever I get a new, used bike, I like to do a tune up, an oil change, air and fuel filter change, clutch and brake fluid change, just so I know where I stand. Then I start to address any problems like tires, brakes, shaky front ends, etc. If you have questions or need parts, please feel free to PM me, I have a few extras. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Those mufflers look awsome! :sign woo hoo:If they sound as good as they look, then you scored big time! What did it take to get those puppies to mount up to your stock VR collector? Did it take an adaptor bracket for the muffler mounts? They look great! Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Kregg, Regular gas is just fine! The most Important thing to realize here is the instant your bike starts to lug, downshift a gear! Even if you run an hour in 4th gear while towing your trailer up a steep grade, (OK, that might be a bit over the top, No pun intended:rotf:) it's OK on the engine. These engines pull much better when they are in the 4000 RPM range in 4th instead of 1800 RPMs in 5th. Hook up your trailer and hop up on the freeway and run your bike in 4th gear at 60 to 65 MPH for an exit or two to get used to the sound of the motor at that speed and RPM. Then when you are out on the road on your trip, you will be able to HEAR the "sweet spot" of 60 to 65 MPH in 4th gear. The motor is your friend, don't be afraid to use it! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Evan, It was a pleasure to meet you at MD this year, and I am glad we took the time to grease that final drive! With the drive shaft and final drive splines as dry as your's were, it could be possible that the drive train was bound up to the point that shifting to neutral was a bit harder than it was after lubing the final drive and drive shaft. What with that new tire, the rear end lubed, and that big grin on your face, I bet your ride home was a lot better than the ride there. I'm glad you made it home safely, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, The 1990 VR is an excellent motorcycle and with the low mileage your bike has on it, you should have many years of good service from it. Since you mentioned the purchase of a front fork brace and Progressive springs, lets take a moment and chat about the many items up front that can cause the symptoms you are describing. If you run your hand over the outside diameter of the front tire, you could feel scalloped areas which mean that the front tire has worn unevenly. There are a few types of movement in the front end that will shorten the life of a tire and cause noise, one type of movement is loose steering head bearings which will cause "side to side wobble" which shows up on the edges of the tire tread as "scollop's" the other type of movement is weak front fork springs which cause the front tire to "bounce" which shows up as a cupped area more in the center of the tire tread. The "heavy duty" replacement front fork brace helps to "mask" the presence of the movement due to loose steering head bearings but really doesn't solve the problem. When you lean into a corner at speed and you feel the front forks extending and compressing (oscillating) then new front fork springs are in order. Usually once these items have been addressed, and new tires are installed AFTER the above items have been adjusted or replaced, then many miles of smooth riding are enjoyed. If you have questions or need parts, please feel free to PM me, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, While the removal of the coils is not what I would call a "Fun" job, while you are there, you may want to take care of a few other nasty problems at the same time. Snaggletooth is correct, the side covers, false tank cover, air box and battery box make the coil removal a lot easier. While you are there a new set of spark plug wires and the removal/relocation of the TCI unit are other great projects to be done at the same time. If you need coils or other parts please feel free to PM me. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Welcome to the site! We hope you will join us! I have attached a few pics of the location of the starter motor. If you need additional help or parts, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, Boy, when I saw the head line I thought for sure this was going to be bad news! I am glad you are not hurt, and no damage to your bike. Here are a few things I would look at. There are vents on the brake and clutch M/C reservoirs, make sure that they are not weeping or dripping brake fluid on the gas tank. The Carbs. could be flooded, wait a while after setting the bike upright before starting. The Final Drive is also vented but the oil is very thick, never the less, check to be sure that there is not a big puddle back by the rear wheel. And of course, did gas leak out of the gas cap or the overflow tubes? If so, wash the tank with soap and water ASAP! I am so glad you were not injured!!! Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, I was shocked and grateful to see ya' at Don's MD this year! Both Jean and I have been prayin' that you would make it home safe! Hang in there just a bit longer, then come on home to us son, we all miss ya'! Earl and Jean
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Terry, First off, welcome to the site! If you are looking for a First Gen. Venture, you've come to the right place for info. I love the First Gen. Venture Royale, and have spent a lot of time and money on them. The motorcycle you have described is a $500.00 to $750.00 motorcycle tops! The fact that it will start is a BIG plus, but the fact remains that you will be looking at Valve Cover gaskets for the oil leak, a complete front fork service, most likely Carb. Diaphragms, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Final Drive Service, Oil and Filter change, Rad. Flush, Clutch and Brake Fluid Flush, most likely, new front and rear brake pads, possible brake caliper rebuilds, (I think you are starting to get the idea now) If you are reasonably mechanically inclined, and have the time and place to work on a large motorcycle like this, AND could get the current owner to lower the price then this is a "just OK" hobby bike. If you will be taking it to a motorcycle dealer to get the repairs done then I agree with Bongobob and you should pass on this bike in favor of one that looks better and needs less service on it. If you do decide to take the plunge, I share my parts discount with the VR.ORG members, and have a few items in the classifieds for sale. If you have questions about the repair work you mentioned, please feel free to PM me. If you do decide to accept this challenge, when all is said and done, you will know this machine like your High School Prom Date when you are done! Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    If you are sure you are not going to be coming to Don's Maint. Day, please PM me and I will do my best to mail your spring out before I leave for Maint. Day. Also, If you did not receive your kit at all, please PM me! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Vinny, Check out this link for the Needle Shim Mod: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2711&title=needle-shim-mod-nylon-spacers-21&cat=6 And you too could be getting mid to high 40's on your MPG's. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Kim, EVERYONE will get a new Clutch Diaphragm Spring. Those that I don't see in person this weekend will get their spring in the mail shortly after. Thanks again for your patience, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    There are two plastic heat shields that go on top of the cylinder heads that the spark plug wires go thru, maybe one or both are missing which would allow air to blow across the engine from the side. Nice bike. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Everyone, I will be traveling to Don's Maint. Day by car this year due to my recent back surgery, and I will have replacement Clutch Diaphragm Springs for anyone that purchased a Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit over the past few months. I will also have complete kits with the new spring for First and Second Gen. bikes as well as a Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit for the MKI VR, which uses a set of 6 compression springs instead of one Diaphragm Spring. Because of my present physical condition, I WILL NOT BE WORKING ON MOTORCYCLES! But I will have many of the Items I have listed in the Classifieds with me for sale. I will mail a new spring to anyone that I miss at Maint. Day or anyone that doesn't attend. Thanks for your patience and understanding, it will be a pleasure to see everyone at Maint. Day again this year. Also, thanks for the kind words and prayers from everyone while I was down, and most of all, thanks to the people that helped Jean while I was down, she was very grateful, as was I. Earl and Jean
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