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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    The cams from an 83'VR are not the same as the cams for a VMAX. The 99'RSV uses a single Valve Spring with the rev limit at 6300 RPMS. The Heads from a VMAX will not go on a 99'RSV. The VMAX cams will fit but need the VMAX double springs to allow the engine to rev to 10,000 RPMS. The RSV heads will still have the smaller intake and exhaust valves but will stay open longer so you will need to open up the intake side of your engine, (filters, Carb. Jets, etc) and the exhause side, (Mufflers, exhaust manifolds, etc.) If you do install VMAX cams, I suggest you replace the valve seals seeing as they have 100,000 miles on them. You will also need an electronic device to override the rev limiter on your CDI as well as a way to modify the power curve and ignition timing. You will end up with a "Quick" RSV, but certainly no VMAX because of rider position, the fairing on the front, the final drive, and the last two gears in the tranny of the RSV being "Overdriven". I hope this info is useful, Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    There was a time, when the Man they call Skid, would open up his heart, and his home, and let his First Gen. friends come and camp, and he and his family would break bread with us. There was a time when a mighty band of brothers would roll from his home, and drink the wind, and roar down the highway together, Skid would lead, his First Gen. shining in the sun, and we would follow....him anywhere. Then as the day would fade, our bikes side by side, with wrenches galore, in the garage with no end, we stood all together, friend after friend. I remember when. Now the Black Beauty is a memory, no longer do bikes sit side by side in the garage with no end, and as for my friend Skid, he just rides a SECOND GEN. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, YOU DA" MAN! You too Mike! I love showin' them my LED lights....on the BACK of my bike! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I have attached a pic of the Idle Adjustment Thum Screw. It is on the left side of the bike, you will need to remove the side cover. You have to get down, and look up at the screw the first time to find it. Then, sitting on the bike, use your left thum and forefinger to rotate it. Hope this helps, Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Michael, Don't forget to get part #10 as well, the special petcock O'Ring. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Allen, Don't feel bad about using the Black Carbon Lube. I have seen this a few times. Dingy has a good solution with the contact cleaner. After I use the Contact Cleaner, I hit the key hole with compressed air, (For goodness sake, protect your eyes!) I have had to blast the key hole 6 or 7 times with the contact cleaner then the compressed air to get it all cleaned out. As George S would say, "be sure to clean the kill switch and starter switch as well." These other contacts as well as the ignition switch compromise the voltage to the TCI if dirty or worn out. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Thats a pretty expensive Tach. That First Gen. must put a bit of a bulge in your tool box! I will have to remember to tell the wife that I need another First Gen. so I can set the Idle on my other bike. It could happen! Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Annie, Thanks Hon, I'm feelin' the Love! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, Believe me when I tell you that I was with you in Spirit today my friend! I went to the garage again today, and looked at a brand new pair of Dunlop E3's on my 87'VR with 4 miles on them and said out loud, "Surely, someone from VR.ORG is getting in some good riding in today"! I am glad to see that it was you Barend. Keep up the good work! I got cleared to drive the car on Wednesday, Started PT on Monday, and hope to put a few miles on those brand new tires before the snow flies this year! ANYONE that needs an excuse to take a ride can tell their wife that "you need to go riding for Earl"! Please know that I will be there in Spirit with you as well. Thanks Barend, Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    On the First Gens. The Plug Wires can be removed and new wires and Plug Caps can be added easily. I have seen recently, on a few of the older Second Gens. that the plug wires are moulded into the coils and I have had a few of these bikes run like crap until I snipped a bit off of the end of the plug wire and added NEW NGK Plug Caps to the old wires. (I hate to admit this but I got the Idea from V7Goose:doh:, LOL, he was kind enough to share this info in another thread) Well, sure enough, with the addition of new plugs and the new plug caps, these older bikes ran much better. Finally, when ever my bike starts running different, the first thing I do is check the Carb. Sync. Especially if my bike has seen Wide Open Throttle ( Which is...all the time) If I go to the trouble to remove a spark plug from a Second Gen. I ALWAYS put a new plug back in. Even with a Crystal Ball, I havn't been able to figure out the difference between a "good plug" and a "bad plug" just by looking at it. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Well, for a first try I say you did great! If the bike idled before you started to use the Carbtune, I say it was close enough. There is another item that a Second Genner. should own and that is a digital clamp on Tach. But for a first time, you can do the Carb. Sync. with the Idle where it is at. Now, if it were me, I would ride the bike for a few days, and take another run at the Carb. Sync. again. Did you install the "restrictors" in the four lines that connect to the Vacuum ports on your bike? Take a little more time and try to get the Sync. closer the next time you try it. As you get more comfortable with the tool, you will do a better job with it. I would take a moment and "pat yourself on the back" for spending a hundred bucks for a tool that you will only use a few times a year, using it on your bike, and having the bike start and run after you messed with it! When I first got my Carbtune, I Synced my 87'VR every day for a month! (I was changing jets and doing mods after VMAX heads were installed) I can use that Carbtune in my sleep now. Hopefully, one of the other Second Gen. owners will post where they got their Tach. from amd you will then be fully equiped to tune your bike with the best of them. I think you did a great job! But that's just me. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I know that after a few 9000 RPM shifts on my 87'VR you could "fry an egg" on my Jardines, I say you found the problem, Sparky! I checked with my brother today, (electronic wiz) and that fuse holder is the "hot ticket item" to replace that main fuse holder. You are good to go. I am glad that the extra backup R/R I had laying around found a good home. That is one of the best things about this site, riders helping riders! I hope you get some good riding in over the Holiday weekend, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, Glad to see you made it back in one piece! Good luck on your new business! Earl and Jean
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Frank, Excellent Idea! No harm done playing it safe and getting the bike to a place where you can work on it properly. You didn't mention how many miles on the bike. I have seen the wheel bearing freeze up a few times on these bikes. Cut the axle in two between the aluminum caliper mount and the wheel, (I use a cut off friction blade but a hack saw will do the job)The big head end of the axle should come out now. Remove the bolts for the final drive and slide the rear wheel and the final drive out together. The final drive should slide off of the axle shaft at this point. Drive the axle out of the rear wheel towards the right side, if you are lucky, the wheel bearing will come out of the rear wheel with the axle. I can help with new bearings or a new axle. Feel free to PM me if you have questions or need parts. Good luck with this project, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Bernie, Welcome to the site! It's a shame you are not closer. My guess would be that you have a damaged Valve Stem Seal. If it were a "cracked head", a compression check of the #3 cylinder would tell the tale after warm up. It is by no means a fun job but it has been done, you can remove the valve cover, pump the valves up with compressed air, remove the cams for that cylinder, compress the valve springs, remove the valve spring keepers, and install new valve seals for that cylinder. Like I said, not a fun job, but doable. A compression check will give you loads of information about that engine. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Unless you are at a place where you have access to a new (different) rear wheel and final drive, either try to make other arrangements to get home or button it back up and "limp" home on the bike. The damage is pretty much done, taking it apart without replacement parts will only cripple the bike completely. If you decide to ride it home, choose the most direct route home, select a speed between 55 and 66 MPH, go easy on the gear changes, stay in 5th gear as much as possible. Even if the axle is burned in two pieces, the final drive will keep the rear wheel from "dropping off". If you decide to catch a bus home and trailer the bike home later, than that's a very smart move as well. Either way, this will be a vacation to remember! Good luck to you! If you decide you want to take the rear apart, Contact me and I will describe what it will take to get it apart and what parts you will need. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, Both of the pics I posted are of front tires! I admit that the old 87'VR has a bit of power, But it would be a stretch to think that a rear wheel burnout would cause the front tire to heat crack. I wonder what dingy is running on his VRMAX?!?!We'll have to wait till he get's off of work to find out! Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Boo, I have to admit that I did a double take when I read your post, but after looking at Dan's pics a few more times, What I thought were impact marks on the tire around the area of the crack, now look like finger prints from the paws of the owner. (by the way, have you seen the paws on this guy!) I too just mounted an Avon on the front and with less than 1000 miles I am seeing sidewall checking (minute semetrical cracks) on both sides of this brand new tire. I have a spear front rim and just had a new Dunlop E3 mounted and ballanced. When my back permits, I will install the E3 and that will be the end of the Avon's for me. I also have another VR in the shop with a front tire that looks like Dan's except it has smaller cracks in ALL of the grooves. I am pretty much done with the Avon's on the First Gens. until this "cracking issue" has been taken care of. I have attached a few pics. Comments are appreaciated. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, That's a very nice trick! Very nice description as well. You won't know what to do with all of the extra room you will have with the MKII luggage on the back of your MKI. You would not believe how many final drives I have removed to find them "dry as a pop corn f*rt"! I believe that this is one of the best indicators of just how well a bike has been taken care of. Any one who will do this "ugly" Maint. job will not hesitate to take on most of the other regular Maint. jobs. Good job Dan! Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, I am grateful and Glad to hear that you have returned to work! And the best part being it is so close to home. I never thought that men of our age would be looking for work, but I am very glad that your look is over. I am very sorry to hear about your mother in law, My mom was the reason that I moved from San Diego to Pennsylvania and she passed just two years ago. I don't think I will ever get over that one. Both Jean and I will say a prayer for you and your wife and family. Hang in there, my friend, Earl and Jean
  21. skydoc_17
    Both Earl and I hope that John is back in the saddle real soon. Prayers sent. Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, The MKI VR (1983 to 1985) with the 1200c.c. engine use a smaller set of Carbs. than the MKII VR (1986 to 1993) with the 1300c.c. engine. The Diaphragm is the same for all of the First Gen. VR's but the sliders are different. I hope this clears this up for you mike, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Andrew, CRC makes Contact Cleaner in the aerosol can (Wally-Mart) I use a cloth or paper towels to keep the cleaner off of the lenses covering the speedo and tach. Spray the button area, (I use a short, SMALL, blast of compressed air afterwords) and then spray the buttons again. Sometimes it will take a day or two for the clock to "dry out" after the cleaning. If this doesn't do the trick, then removal of the clock and a therough cleaning (by removing the dash) of the clock is next. On one unit, I never could get the clock working properly, I had to replace the clock. The other three or four cleaned up just fine. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, That Final Drive Lube will function properly in you bike. If you service the Complete Final Drive (grease drive shaft splines, change Final Drive Oil, etc.) every time you change out your rear tire you will be doing as well as most, and better than others. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Monty, I am sorry to hear that your Reservoir is broken. That part has been discontinued from Yamaha. If you can't find one, let me know, Earl
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