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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Us old guys have to be careful, we don't "Bounce" like we use to! I hope you are feeling better. When you have recovered, I would like to hear more about your center stand project. Some pics would be nice. (of the center stand, not of your busted up noggen!) Rest up and take another run at it when you feel better. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Rocket, When Mike told me the name of his dog, I swear your name popped into my head. What a hoot you are, you jokester you! If you could throw that far, the Expo's might have a winning year after all! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, When I referenced the Part Numbers for the 1984, 1985 and 1986 AMERICAN VR's here's what I got: Speedo Assembly for respective models: 1984-41R-83570-A0-00 1985-41R-83570-A0-00 1986-1NL-83540-A0-00 I am in no way saying that you are not correct Brian, perhaps the Canadian models got the face lift on the dash console before the US bikes did. Because Devildog is in Texas, I assumed his bike was an American Model and I only have direct access to the American data. Perhaps a check with your local Canadian Yamaha Dealer will show something different for the Canadian models or perhaps your dash console was replaced with the MKII console? Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Gene, Both Jean and I send prayers to you especially, and to the man that had the accident. If you didn't feel the way you do, you wouldn't be human. Thanks for reminding me that life is a "gift", NEVER to be taken for granted. It's like a snowflake, here one moment, and gone the next. Your a good man, Earl and Jean
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Carl, Any of the MKI VR Instrument Consoles (1983 to 1985) will be a direct replacement for your 84'VR. If you find the entire console, you could remove the speedo and put it in your console or just swap the entire console, your choice. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Goat, Coolant Loss is not a "Weakness" that this XVZ1300 motor is known for but if it is going to leak, and it IS NOT leaking in the front of the bike out of the radiator or the big hoses to and from then it leaks in this area (part #35, #36) in the pic attached below. We call this the "Twinkie". You have two complex O'Ring assemblies and I have seen hose #53 leak as well. Sometimes the hose clamps for hose #53 will not be clamping properly, (after all, they are an 11 year old Jap spring clamp) and coolant will ooze from the lower end of the hose. Remove the Ornamental Cylinder Covers, Get the bike running, and use a flashlight to see where the coolant is coming from. Until you find the source of the leak, you will just be throwing parts at it. By the way, welcome to the site! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Thanks very much for the kind words! YOU did most of the work! Folks, I could have not picked a better "First Ride" of the season than to the beautiful state of Virginia! Mike and his lovely wife Penny have a Beautiful home and were VERY gracious, Southern hospitality is alive and well in Virginia my friends. Mike has and excellent example of a low mileage 1989 MKII VR (and he also has one of the fastest Vette's I have ever ridden in!!) In my mind, I was ready for a good old fashion "showdown" between the Vette and my trusty 87"VR but my back (and my wife) wasn't willing! I am sure Mike would have been MORE than happy to blow my doors off but because he is a "Virginia Gentleman" he never pushed the issue. As I was leaving this morning, it began to rain. Mike offered to trailer my bike to dry weather. I was truly touched by his offer, and opted for the course change that he also offered. About an hour and a half into the trip I rode into sunshine and finished my 500 mile round trip dry as a bone and two new friends richer. (Plus 4 dog friends richer) Seems after I left, the youngest dog, Rocket was pining for the old Skydoc, I guess we played "fetch the stick" a few to many times! That Rocket wouldn't give up, he made me chase that darn stick 40 or 50 times!! Boy, he could throw that stick a long ways! I got tired after a while, and Penny FINALLY saved me. I got a long, cool drink from my own bowl that she put on the floor. I think I broke a tooth (wink) on the food I had with the rest of the pups, and I only had to stand on my hind legs once for my after dinner treat! Like I said, That Mike, he's a real swell guy. Thanks again to Mike and Penny, and please tell Rocket we can be "pen pals" Earl
  8. skydoc_17

    First Royale

    skydoc_17 replied to Zane's topic in Watering Hole

    Hey Stud (Steward), Although few were sold compared to the Royales, there was a "Standard" offered in 1986 to 1989. We have members on this site who own them. I have never seen a Standard after 1989. In 1987 for example, The two color combo's offered were Gold and Cream, Elegant Brown and Birch Brown in the Royales, and Blue for the Standard. Just an FYI, Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    YOU TWO...GET A ROOM! Dan would KILL himself before he would let a Second Gen. Beat Him! AND there is always a bike in Pennsylvania that would accept that challange! Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I take no offense at your statement that you think that the answer I posted is incorrect. I would like to add some additional information so you will understand why I said what I said. First off, you are Assuming that the Carb. Rack on the 1200cc motor you are trying to repair is the original rack for this motorcycle. Unless you check the bore diameter of the Carbs. on that bike you can't tell the difference between the MKI and MKII Carb. racks with the naked eye. Here are some part numbers for the MKI and MKII VR's Carbs. (I selected the #1 Carb. for this comparison for both Carb. Racks.) 1987 MKII VR #1 Carb. Diaphragm Assembly: 1FK-14940-00-00 #1 Carb Body: 1UN-14901-01-00 1984 MKI VR#1 Carb. Diaphragm Assembly: 41R-14940-00-00 #1 Carb Body: 41V-14901-00-00 These part numbers plainly show that the Carb. body is different as well as the Diaphragm assembly between the two Carbs. Now we also know for a fact that the rubber Diaphragm is the SAME for both the MKI and MKII VR. So the difference MUST be in the plastic slider part of the assembly. Because of the larger engine displacement of the MKII VR the slider bore is also larger to allow more fuel and air to pass into a larger engine. So if the slider bore is larger on the MKII VR then it would stand to reason that the slider would be larger as well. The difference in the part numbers above would prove this fact. If you would measure the slider bore on BOTH of your engines, and find out that they were the same size, then you either have an MKII Carb. Rack on your MKI engine OR you have an MKI Carb. Rack on your MKII engine. If your measurement shows that the slider bore is different, then this would prove that you do indeed need a different slider for the MKI as apposed to the MKII Carb. Body. Without these measurements, It's basically a crap shoot and it will be hard to send you the proper parts you need. At this point, you are either MORE confused, or you know EXACTLY what you need to do to provide the information WE need to send you the correct slider to get you up and running. By the way, I have good used, MKII sliders that I would be happy to send if it would get that bike running! Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    HeyNorm, The Markland Floor Boards for the MKII VR (1986 to 1993) will not fit the MKI VR (1983 to 1985) The mounting spacers are different and the Boards are a different length. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey James, These tires were just talked about earlier this week. Here is the thread, I posted a comment, as did others. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=518963#post518963 Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Boy you guys sure pay a steep price for all that happiness up there! The last two E3's I ordered were $114.00 US and $16.00 each for mount and balance. Rims off the bike. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    The Dunlop D404 uses one of the softest rubber compounds that Dunlop offers for it's tires. This is why owners of big twin motorcycles run these tires, short trips, and the soft rubber compound give the rider the "illusion" of a soft cushy ride. With a tire pressure of 42 to 45 PSI, 5000 miles is excellent mileage for this tire considering the weight of your scoot, the fact you are riding 2up and the "final nail in the coffin" your trailer. Watch very closely for a patch of cord to show on this tire, maybe in more than one spot, and NOT a continuous cord strip all the way around the tire, which means you will need to check the tire tread, then rotate the tire by moving the bike forward, and check again. Try NOT to downshift the transmission and use the engine as a brake, as this is what causes the cord patches to appear. This will buy you some additional miles on that tire, and should get you home safely. Literally, as soon as you pull into the driveway, be prepared to replace that rear tire, and count your lucky stars that your trip wasn't 7000 miles long! Keeping it aired up properly and easy use of the throttle should see you home safely but check that tire tread every gas stop to insure that you know where you stand as far as rubber on the road goes. Ride safely, and have a great trip, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, I use Ebay as my "sounding board" for pricing on motorcycles. With the downturn in the economy, there are a LOT of bikes for sale in my area. For 9 grand you could buy a Second Gen. Venture in the 2005 range in the US right now. Unless that is the payoff on the bike and you called this man "PAP" when you were a boy, I would say that that price is steep, or worse. After all it is a twin cylinder bike and after owning one of the finest machines ever built on the planet, (A First Gen.!) you could be disappointed! Heck, if you are looking for a twin, for 9 grand, buy yourself a new Sportster and pocket the rest of the money! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    I have "fished" pieces of slider assemblies out of intakes and even had a few bikes with a piece of the slider stuck to the valve face! Not a pretty sight. This is not an area of a motorcycle where I like to use a "Band-Aid" because the next stop for anything that brakes loose is into the engine or valve train. The way I see it, with a bike that red lines at 7500 RPM's it would be better to park it and repair it properly than risk engine damage. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Jason, There is a mod that is done between the final drive and the rear tire to shift it to the right that will allow a wider tire to be placed on the stock rim, but without this mod, the tire mentioned (150) will not fit on his First Gen. VR. Without seeing your friend's bike AND removing the final drive to check for the mod, there is no way to tell if the rim has been shifted or not. Just an FYI. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey John, Needless to say, these beasts don't like sitting around for an extended period of time. The bleeding of the clutch Master Cylinder is an excellent Idea. Look for a small puddle of brake fluid on the left side of the bike behind the foot peg. This would indicate a clutch slave cylinder weeping. Another thing I would try is to start the bike on the center stand and let it "warm up" real good. (20 minutes or more) Then try to take the bike for a good long, (blow the cobwebs out kinda' ride on the free way) If this does make the clutch action better, then an oil change is in order pronto! When oil sits in a crankcase for 6 months it becomes acidic and basically the clutch discs and plates are glued together. Fresh oil and a few good long rides will free things up and you should be go to go again. If the clutch fluid is any other color than clear then take a GOOD CLOSE LOOK at brake Master Cylinders as well, If you haven't done a brake fluid flush and replace in the last year or so then it's time for some sorely needed maintenance. Keep us posted as to how this is progressing, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Yamaha will not authorize a Carb. "cleaning" under warranty. If the dealer replaces physical hard parts and gaskets in the Carbs., there may be a chance to get it covered as a warranty job. I stress, "May be a chance". Get them to commit to the repair as a warranty job, in writing, or be prepared to pay over $200.00 for virtually no work at all, or $600.00 to $800.00 if that actually pull the Carb. Rack off the bike. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, If you would be up for a day ride before it gets too cold, I would inspect your bike here at the shop. I live 4 miles from Altoona, Pa. (for reference) If I can help you with this, let me know. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Because the water pump seal has been in there for over 20 years, on those chilly mornings, you can very well see a spot like that. The size of a dinner plate is a tad on the big side, it's usually the size of a silver dollar. This is a clue that your water pump seal is tired. There is a bit of a trick to rebuilding these water pumps, but if you are not "heavy handed" and have average mechanical skills, it USUALLY goes pretty well. A lot of the VMAX guys just install a new water pump because they can't afford to have their high performance engines fail due to a leaky water pump. I have had mixed success rebuilding them myself. Personally, it's a "pocket book" thing, if you can afford the new pump, you will get another 20+ years out of your bike, but if you are financially challenged then the rebuild will save you quite a bit of money, that is as long as the rebuild works! There is nothing worse than rebuilding the pump, having it leak, and then springing for the new pump anyway. Just some things to decide on, Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Welcome to the site! Check the connector on the back of the CMU by removing the windshield and the black cover that protects the dash. You may find that the connector has corrosion on it. Pick up a can of CRC Contact Cleaner from Wal-Mart and clean the connections. Dielectric grease is also a good item to use here. Reinstall the plug, making sure it is seated firmly. The pinched wire info in the above posts is also exellent info. Hope this helps, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, Take a GOOD CLOSE LOOK at the tube thar runs from the side of the overflow tank down to the nipple at the top of the Radiator. The tube gets crushed and plugged, the nipple on the overflow tank gets plugged, and this will keep the coolant from returning to the Radiator. When I got the 87'VR, I pulled the overflow tank, cleaned it good, and replaced the tube, (auto parts store, $1.00 a foot) and had no problems after that. Boy, was it clogged up. To get to the overflow tank, remove the Allen Head Cap Screws on the top of the fairing and it will expose the tank. Be sure NOT to overtighten those Cap Screws when you put it back together. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, That is the correct tire. MR90H 18. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Stan, That tire will not fit a First Gen. Not because it won't fit on the rim, but because it will rub on the drive shaft tube. A good deal is not a good deal unless you want a tire swing in your front yard, Sorry, Earl
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