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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Kelly, You didn't mention if it was an MKI (1983 to 1985) or MKII(1986 to 1993) VR. The Gasket set for the rebuild is a bit pricey. If it is the MKII VR, I have a complete motor with 50,XXX miles on it. Ther are no extra items on it. (NO starter, Carbs. Exhausts, TCI, etc.) The battery overflow tube came off the battery so there is some "not so shiney" paint on the right cylinder head but other than that, it was a running motor. This would be a strait engine swap, instead of pulling your motor and cracking the cases. $100.00 and it's yours. I live in south central Pa. I was saving this motor to replace the motor in my 87'VR, but it sounds like you need it more than I do. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Welcome to the VR.ORG site! Pinwall Cycle Parts has a kickstand for your bike. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-1300-KICKSTAND-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c57df9a55QQitemZ190452832853QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories If this link doesn't work go to ebay and type in this item number: 190452832853 The price seems OK to me but I guess it's relative, seeing as you don't have a center stand. Of course, you could take your Cassette Deck and prop up the left side of your scoot with that:rotfl: I hope this helps, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Chuck, I run the BelRay "Gear Saver" 80W90 Hypoid Gear Oil. I have had excellent results with it. My 87"VR has the 2005 FJR1300 Final Drive in her and I run this bike like a "Scalded Cat" with no problems what so ever. I have used this product since the 80's and have never had a Final Drive fail on me with over 300,000 miles on VR's and more on other bikes. It is an excellent product. I am not connected with this company, just sayin' To answer your question, you are looking for the 80W90 Weight Hypoid Gear Oil. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, The Chrome is still good on my Jardine Exhaust Pipes, So far! I do wipe them down regularly as I have had trouble in the past with aftermarket pipes flaking after a short time. Because Jardine no longer offers these pipes, and because they were almost $350.00 when they were available, a re-chrome might not be a bad deal. I too fully enjoy the sound of my Jardine exhaust pipes, and regularly wind the old 87'VR just to hear them. When I ride a VR with stock exhaust, I can hardly tell if it is running! I respect the fact that a lot of riders enjoy the "whisper quiet" sound of the stock exhausts, but as for me, "Let those puppies BARK", I say. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Don't beat yourself up too bad, This happens sometimes. Some people would NEVER remove the exhaust mufflers for fear of doing damage and never address the Maintenance issues with the rear of the bike as a result. Remove the collector and any decent muffler shop should be able to weld a new tube to the collector. Have a good look at all of the collector tubes and replace any that are "thin". While you have the collector out, have the weld shop cut open the bottom of the "can" and remove the center rib inside the collector. This should give you years of dependable service from this collector. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, When I put the Jardine Exhausts on my 87'VR, it sounded like a "Rattle Trap" for about 3 months when cold. After warm up, the exhausts quieted down, and all of the noise and exhaust gasses were exiting out of the tail pipes. After this set of pipes had been on my bike for more than three years, the transition from cold to warmed up as far as sound goes, has decreased greatly. When I have had to remove one or both of the exhaust pipes for a rear tire change or Final Drive maintenance, the difference in sound changed from loud when cold to quieter when warm. I don't think there is anything wrong with your ears, and with the lack of options we have as far as exhaust pipe selections goes, I think you did an excellent job of adding a little "Sound" to your scoot. Now those big pink ears you have, (because of the Seafoam) Well, that's a whole different issue. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Chris, Welcome to the VR.ORG site! As you mentioned, a Carb. Sync. is at the top of the list. I would also change the fuel filter. If you went heavy on the Seafoam, a fresh set of plugs would be in order as well. Go to the Members List and search the state of Iowa. Find the closest member and invite them over for lunch or arrange to meet them at their location for that Carb. Sync. Keep us posted on how this works out. A pic of your bike wouldn't hurt either. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Michael has got you real close to the inspection of the fuel lines! I suggest that you remove the single bolt that holds the fuel pump bracket to the frame which will allow you to pull the fuel pump out of the frame and expose a good portion of the fuel line going to the fuel tank and the large red braided fuel line that goes up the "spine" of the frame to the Carbs. Once the pump is out, turn on the key and check the fuel lines for the leak. If you find that the smaller black rubber fuel lines is bad, I would replace ALL of them as they are all 24+ years old. When you order the lines, pick up a new fuel filter as well and do this job ONE time, well. If you find the larger red, braided fuel line is bad, then that job is going to be a bit more time consuming because of the fuel line routing and access. Keep us posted as to what you find out. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Ken, You didn't mention what year/type bike you have and I didn't see it in your profile. Just an FYI. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    The fuel petcock attaches to the fuel tank with 2 or 3 screws. (I'm not sure the year they changed the connection method) Drain the fuel tank, remove the petcock, and there will be a brass tube, (or two if your quad has a reserve position on the petcock) There will either be one big screen at the base of the petcock or a smaller screen at the end of the brass fuel tube. I usually just replace the screen rather than try to pick all of the crud out of the screen, but that is up to you. As the other members have pointed out, a new fuel filter is an excellent idea as well. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I have had pretty good luck with this method: Grab the end of the turn down, (very rear of the bike, side bag removed) with your back on the floor. Use a medium pressure yank to lower the muffler strait down. The end of the muffler opposite the collector end should drop an inch or two. Now thrust the muffler strait up, then strait down, then strait up, etc. until the swing of the muffler end is one foot. Now, move to the side of the bike and sit on your rump with your legs crossed. Using a medium yank again, pull the muffler towards you, it should only move an inch or two. Now push the muffler away from you. Push and pull until the muffler moves about six to eight inches. Move to the rear end of the bike, standing and yank the muffler out of the collector. If the muffler doesn't come out start the process over again. Here is why you are using this method, The pinch clamp that holds the muffler in the collector has crimped the two pipes together in two different places. By swinging the muffler up and down, and side to side you expand the crimps and allow the muffler to slide out of the collector. The reason you use the lying and sitting position while swinging the muffler is so you DON'T put "Your back into it" and rupture the collector tube. If you wiggle that muffler up and down, and side to side a hundred times, this is better than rupturing the collector tube. When you do the end yank, don't be shy about it, but also brace yourself because when it lets loose, you'll be laying in your neighbor's front yard when it lets go if you don't have a leg behind you. I have an excellent set of exhaust clamps if you need them, Be patient, but be firm. Good luck with this project, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Try taking a few of the bolts to the hardware store and replacing them with unusual fasteners like a torx with the center pin or the 4 sided internal square drive fasteners. This won't keep you from removing these items for maintenance, but would keep your average "crack-head" from running off with your windshield or backrest. Because of the downturn in the economy, people are stealing some pretty strange things lately. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Todd, I checked and cross referenced the ability to rebuild a First Gen. Shock. There is NO kit or list of internal parts offered from Yamaha. I called our local Yamaha Rep, (Personal friend) and he said that other than in the factory, the shock that comes on the First Gen. VR is not made to be rebuilt like a Works shock is. A new air adjustable shock is NO longer offered from Yamaha, I am sad to say. I have a rear shock from a low mileage 1986 VR if you are interested, (29,4XX miles) It is still 25 years old but is in Very good to excellent condition. If I can help you with this project, PM me. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, The slip on part of both the 83' to 85' and 86' to 93 VR exhaust pipes will fit the VR collector. The mounting bracket position is different between the two mufflers and the MKI (83' to 85') exhaust pipes are shorter. Which means that the mufflers will not exit out the back of the bike. The MKI mufflers do not have a turn down to them as well. I hope this answers your question. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    I have powered out of trouble more times than I like to think about now that I am getting older! I will say that the only time I ever "Made Contact" with a car that had pulled out in front of me, I jammed the rear brake onmy first 86'VR, the rear of the bike came around, and my VR stayed up but contacted the car broadside. (I would like to mention this was a crash at less than 40 MPH) The fairing exploded, and the rear crash bars crumpled into the rear side bags, but there was a "pocket" that my right leg was in. My right shoulder whacked the car pretty hard but my head never contacted anything. I was wearing a helmet (which I always do) and my right front hi way peg punched thru the driver's side door of the car. I walked away from that accident a lucky guy. The bike was close to totaled because of the plastic damage but the force it absorbed saved my hide in my opinion. After the bike was repaired, I rode it for another 100,000 miles. I wish I could say that I had planned this maneuverer but when I jammed the rear brake, the left front caliper grabbed as well (linked brakes) and the bike spun wildly, front end to the left, rear end to the right. For this one set of conditions this braking action worked, If I would have been coming up hard on the rear end of an SUV, I would have most likely ended up in a ditch on the other side of the road. I have since de-linked the brakes on my 87'VR. I guess it wasn't my time to go that day. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    The Stainless Steel Line Sets I offer in the Classifieds are made in the USA, and are Kevlar lined. They come with all new banjo bolts and crush washers. All of the lines I sell are $35.00 except for the line that goes to the rear brake caliper, because of the length and the unusual configuration of the banjo bolt on the one end, this one line is $40.00 Every other piece is custom made from Stainless Steel and all stainless steel hardware is used. The R1 Calipers are disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned, and new, genuine Yamaha seal kits are installed. The caliper pistons are resurfaced and polished. The caliper bodies are painted in your choice of 6 colors. I am a 25 year Machinist/Assembly Mechanic for Lockheed-Martin with 39 years in Aerospace Machining and I manufacture EVERY part of the kits I sell as if it were going on a fighter jet. I have taken my 1986 VR with the linked braking system completely rebuilt and ran it up to 60 MPH and did a panic stop. I then took my 1987 VR with the R1 braking system and also ran it up to 60 MPH and did a panic stop. The 87'VR stopped 16 FEET shorter than the 86'VR! The R1 brake swap has saved my life on two occasions, without the extra stopping power, I would have T-Boned a driver that ran a red light, and would have crashed into the back of a truck that made a sudden stop. I could offer my Braking kits with Lines made in China, make the custom parts out of steel or aluminum, use the 20+ year old Banjo Bolts and used crush washers, put aftermarket seal kits in them from Mexico, and not paint the caliper bodies, and ship the kits First Class Mail instead of USPS Priority Mail. But then again, you can do that under the tree in your front yard! I applaud the members of this forum all the time for their creativity and their ability to "bring 20+ year old parts back to life", and take NO offense at your comparison. These kits are not for everyone, If you enjoy the linked braking system then this is NOT the kit for you. If you chug around in 5th gear at 45 MPH then you DO NOT need the extra braking power. If your left front or rear caliper hasn't had the brake pads changed in 5 years then you don't even have a clue that those calipers are not even functioning any more!, and it is beyond your understanding what the R1 Caliper Swap would do for your bike. I have seen people spend $200.00 on a chrome part that does absolutely nothing for the safety of their motorcycles complain about the price of HH Sintered brake pads or R1 Calipers. I guess it's just human nature. If anyone has questions about any of my kits I will be happy to answer them either here in the public forum or in a PM. And if ANYONE that has a linked system on their VR thinks they can stop their bike faster than I can on my 87'VR than I accept that challenge as well. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Rich, YOU are a sick dude! I like it! Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, There is NO advantage to putting a set of MKI or MKII VR camshafts in your RSTD. You would need to install the VMAX cams AND the Double Springs from a VMAX to see any increase at all. Because you have the smaller set of Carbs. on your bike, you would need to switch to a set of RSV Carbs. with the larger Body Bore, larger main and pilot jets, Some sort of ignition module to reset the rev limiter on your scoot, free flowing filters, and performance exhausts just to have a "peppy" RSTD. It would certainly not be a VMAX! Many of the Second Gen. riders have said that the VMAX Final Drive Swap and the Power Commander ignition module are the best "Bang for the buck." I didn't even mention the fact that you would need to be an above average "Shade Tree Mechanic" to do all of this work, or you could BUY a VMAX for what you would have in parts and money paid to a shop to do the install. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Jack, you nailed this one, buddy! Mr Arlen Ness stopped by our local chopper shop (Hart Custom Cycles) this summer and rarely have I met a nicer, more well versed person in my life. Needless to say, he was NOT wearing jeans and a tank top, but took time to look at my scoot, was impressed with the upgrades, had a few suggestions AND shared them with me. He is not your typical "biker" Harley Rider. This would be the MAN to build a custom bike that would gather more than a few bucks for a worthy cause. He was at Hart Custom Cycles to have a look at a Trike Chopper that a customer purchased from Arlen and had delivered to Hart. It seems that the bike was damaged in transport. Mr. Ness showed up in person, had a look at the bike, ordered it back to his shop for repairs and a complete repaint, and spent the rest of the afternoon hangin' out with Shawn, checking out his projects. By the way, Hart Custom Cycles is one of the few METRIC (for you Second Gen. guys) Custom Bike Builders that I know of in Pennsylvania. I have no connection with his company other than a healthy respect for the quality of his work. After seeing Mr. Ness's work, that's the place to get a bike built! First class all the way. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    :confused24:I was wondering why you would want Paul Jr. to build this bike and not Paul Sr. who still runs O.C.C.? As of July Paul Sr.'s shop O.C.C. is still operating in NY and when Jean and I stopped by on our way to the BongoBob's Paul Sr. was there and without any of the drama that was generated between P Jr. and P Sr. depicted on the show. If MY father had a business going and wanted to make ME a part of it, I am not so sure I would have gotten the "too big fo my britches" attitude that Paul Jr. did and would have been a bit more respectful of my father, but hey, thats just me. I would think that a bike built by Orange County Chopper's would be worth a lot more than a bike built by his son, not to mention, if you can't event get in touch with him TO GIVE HIM YOUR MONEY, what's it going to be like when you DON'T GET YOUR BIKE! Here is a link to the O.C.C. site: http://www.orangecountychoppers.com/ Just my 2cents. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    This connector and LED is not a stock item on either the MKI VR (1983 to 1985) or the MKII VR (1986 to 1993) As Dano said, a pic would be worth a thousand words. Until you find out what, exactly these wires are connected to we would be hard pressed to give a guess as to what they do. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    I am a top of the bottom butterer myself. A nice big blob of real Amish butter every time. At 6' tall, and 185lbs., I can afford a little "fat" in my diet. I realize that some aren't so lucky. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Having a love of all things that go fast, I took a ride on the Triumph T3 Rocket last year. I found it very fast, very torquey, and very BIG! After riding a V4 for so long, the vibration was something I think it would be hard to get used to, but if I was switching from a big twin, it would definatly be an upgrade. I have attached a pic, which really doesn't give you the feel of how big this machine really is. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, As you well know, I live on that dirt road that passes right in front of our house. I have K&N Filters in Jean's Nissan, My GMG Jimmy and the Venture. I cycle all three filters into my parts washer 4 times a year, and EVERY TIME, the powdery brown dirt pours out of the filters. No matter how hard I am riding, if my mileage dips below 40 MPG, I know it's time for a filter cleaning. In Jean's Nissan, I have seen a 6 MPG increase after a cleaning. I know most people don't live on a dirt road, but cleaning and recharging their filter, OR replaceing their paper filter helps keep their Carbs. clean. I am glad to hear that your gas mileage is up. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Both Jean and I are excited to here this great news! You are in our prayers every day my friend! I was a bit sad to here that things are working out so well for you that you will not be able to get one of those highly touted "Handicapped Parking Tags" that would allow you to park your bike in the best parking at any store. Oh well, ya' have to take the good with the bad I guess! They say that your other senses will get more acute as time progresses, but as for me, better hearing, (nagging wife,LOL) and better sense of smell, (didn't change my socks today...again) would be a "Mixed Blessing." As with all things in life that I have absolutely NO control over, I try to find the humor in them. If you are smiling while you are reading this then my work here is done. If, on the other hand, you are NOT smiling, and your lovely wife is throwing a bedroom slipper at the computer monitor, then I best pay my VR.ORG dues up.... for the next nine years! The check's in the mail, and prayers are sent, as always, Earl and Jean
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