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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    I merely put my bike up on the CENTER STAND and check the oil level! Oh yea, I listen to my Cassette Deck while I am doing it, JUST LIKE YOU DO! I can see why you Second Gen. owners Chose the ultra-modern Cassette Deck Option over the boring, utilitarian CENTER STAND OPTION, I'm sure it makes perfect sense to a Second Gen. Owner?!?! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Jack is right on the money on this one! Your clutch slave is already 11 YEARS OLD! Treat yourself and your bike to a new clutch slave cylinder, you're worth it! Oh yea, while you are at it, buy yourself a set of metric combo boxed/open end wrenches, it's a LOT cheaper than buying new parts for your bike!:sign just kidding:If you need help with parts, I can help. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Owen, The Vmax Final Drive will physically fit the rear of a RSV but as you have mentioned, the VMAX and FJR both use a speedo cable and the RSV uses a speed sensor mounted in the Final Drive. You have two options, Machine the Speedo Sensor Hole in the Vmax Final Drive, OR purchase the VMAX final Drive, then remove the Pinion Gear from the VMAX Final Drive, and install it in the RSV Final Drive. Each of this methods poses problems. Either you need the equipment to do the machine work, or you need the advanced mechanical skills to "set up" the ring and pinion gear lash in the RSV final drive. Units can be purchased in the $300 range (plus two way shipping) with the work already done. Please don't get me wrong, I am not saying that you don't have the ability to do this project, but there would be ZERO learning curve on this project. If the gear lash is set to tight, then the bearings overheat and the final drive seizes up, if the lash is set to loose, then the ring and pinion gear beat each other to death. If you had a First Gen. it would be a LOT easier, if it were me, I would purchase the modified unit and install it myself. Just my thoughts, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, First off, DON'T PANIC! This happens all the time! I have attached a pic of the parts break down so you can see what the unit looks like that you are working with. (Yellow Arrow) The Speed Bleeder screws into the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Option #1 would be to remove the Clutch Slave Cylinder and then use a 1/8" drill and a 1/8" "Easy Out" and remove the broken off threads from the Clutch Slave. Option #2 is to purchase a NEW Clutch Slave Cylinder, then simply remove the two bolts that hold the Clutch Slave on, install the new Clutch Slave, bleed the clutch, and you will be good to go. You could then remove the broken off threads and have a "back-up" clutch slave. If this is going to be a project that you will be taking to a dealer, the replacement of the Clutch Slave is the way they are going to do it. It is a shame you don't live closer, I have a "Rig" set up to do this operation right on the bike. (it's not for the faint of heart) Even with moderate mechanical skills, the two bolts could be removed, and a new Clutch Slave could easily installed. I hope this helps, Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, Congrats to you, my friend! What a score! And just in time for the spring riding season. A little Seafoam in the gas tank, Some Goof Off on thoses stickers, and a new clutch slave, and you should be good to go! Thanks for sharing the pics with us, You must be beemin' from ear to ear! This could be the start of a GREAT summer for you, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I have seen a few different styles of block off plates used to get rid of the adjustable "Vents" on the MKII VR side panels. I have attached a few pics of what I did to get rid of the vents. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, As far as the "Just Dumped My Bike Donation" goes, upper right hand corner of home page, "DONATE" Icon, Send VR.ORG $5.00 and all will be well. I wish I could say that I have NEVER dumped one, but I would be Lying! Our bikes do get a little "touchy" after a dump. If you have a Lead/Acid battery, have a look at the Electrolyte Level, If low, fill with distilled water. (Wally Mart, $.89 a gallon) Check the overflow bottle for the radiator as well. Watch for a slight seepage of oil at the shift shaft on the left side of the engine case. Sometimes when that old shift shaft seal takes a hit, (bent shifter) it becomes a "leaker". Usually, after a week or so, things will calm back down. I have seen a time or two, when a dump has stirred a bit of rust from the bottom of the gas tank, and caused the fuel filter to pick up a bit of rust particles, I like to replace the fuel filter in the spring, then cut it open and see what junk is coming from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. Check the front brake master cylinder and clutch master to make sure there is no weeping of brake fluid out of the vent hole, this will damage paint and plastic. These bikes have been known to "swallow" an air bubble in the clutch or brake master in the front when on their sides. Because of the location of the rear Master Cylinder, it's pretty tuff to get an air bubble back there. That's about all I can think of right now. Again, I am glad you were not injured any more than you were, I have the parts you asked about, when I am getting around a bit better, I will get those right to you. I truly believe that the most important thing is to "get back in the saddle" as soon as you can, if you want to continue to ride. If you ride these bikes the way they were meant to be ridden, it's more a matter of when" then "if". Because you and I have ridden together, (and we BOTH tend to ride a tad aggressively) this post was not so much a shock as it was just sad, because the plastic fairing parts are so hard to replace these days. Personally, every "scratch" on my VR tells a story, and reminds me I am still ALIVE. If I wanted to own, a "perfect" motorcycle to dress up a spot in my garage, I would own an Harley! (That's NEVER going to happen!) I love riding on the edge too much! Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Heck, I thought that Video looked like the New York Posse going to Don's Maint. Day last year!! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, The Carb. Set from a MKI 1984 VR will physically fit on the MKII 1986 VR, BUT the inside Size of the Carb. Bodies is smaller on the 84'VR MKI VR set. The bike should run, (if there is no blockage inside the MKI Carb. Set) but you will loose some acceleration and top end because the Carbs. are too small for the 1300 motor. If you are having issues with the Carb. Set on your 86'VR, this would be a way to make sure it is truly a Carb. Issue. You could also install this Carb. Set while you repair/rebuild the MKII Carb. set. If you ride solo, don't go much over 80MPH, and don't pull a trailer, you may not even notice the difference. On the other hand, If you are a BIG fan of the second gear wind up on an interstate onramp, ride two up a lot, or pull a trailer, this Carb. set may be a bit of a disappointment in the power dept. I wouldn't waste a moment thinking about installing the MKI Carb. Set if it meant the difference between riding my scoot, and having it sit in my garage, unridable. Just my thoughts, Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Both Jean and I are very glad that you were not injured! Bikes can be repaired, bodies can't! If there is ANYTHING I can do to help, please let me know. (Besides drive you back and forth to work!):crackup:I am really glad you are OK! Earl and Jean
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Snaggletooth and Seaking, Thanks for the kind words about the batteries I offer in the Classifieds! Here is a link to the First Gen. DEKA AGM Battery: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=22 Here is the link to the Second Gen. DEKA AGM Battery: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2743&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=22 I used to sell the Odyssey Batteries here at the shop, but found the DEKA AGM to be a MUCH better battery. I would like to mention that on motorcycles that don't get ridden regularly, (like every day) because the First Gen. and Second Gen. motorcycles have a clock, and a hot lead to the radio to keep channels in memory, that draws power ALL the time, a battery tender is an excellent way to extend the life of your battery. Cold weather is another battery killer. For those of us that have a riding season that is interrupted by cold weather, a battery tender is SOLID protection for an investment in a high quality AGM type battery. The last thing I wanted to mention is that, God forbid that this would ever happen to anyone, but if you did happen to tip your bike over, or "Drop It" in a panic stop, the acid burn damage that would result from an older style Lead/Acid type battery would be a thing of the past with the newer style sealed, AGM type battery. Just something to think about. Being a First Gen. owner myself, I can honestly say the the addition of the DEKA AGM battery with it's reduced weight has had a positive impact on that "Top heavy" feeling that the First Gen. VR's seem to have. As we all know, the charging system on ALL of the Yamaha V4's is marginal at best. I realize to many Yamaha V4 owners, "a battery is just a battery". But the way I see it, ANYTHING I can do to ease the load on the charging system of my scoot is money well spent. Just my thoughts, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Doc, I have attached an exploded view of the Final Drive on your scoot. I hope this helps. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Hilligan, You have a few things going for you with the VR as far as it being an Enduro goes, the power for one, A 15" rear wheel can be fitted to the rear of this scoot for more traction. The Dinosaur Anti-Dives could be removed. The luggage can be removed, Progressive Springs in the front would be a great help. With the side bags removed, up-swept exhaust pipes could be adapted to the collector. Late model Brakes could be added. Better lighting could be added. The Mono-Shock swing arm is a plus, especially with the addition of a gas charged rear shock. Removal of the air ride system would lighten the bike. Thinner, more aggressive profile tires, as you mentioned. Here is some of the down side items. Because of the shaft drive, (which is vented) water visits would require MORE than regular final drive gear oil changes and drive shaft lubing. Because the fairing pieces are 25+ years old and can not be purchased any more, one good dump would turn your VR into a "naked" version pretty quick. Most ALL of the plastic parts are brittle, and would not last very long without reinforcement. The rear Sub- Frame section of this MKI VR would need to be reinforced due to frame breakage known on this model year, or an MKII VR Sub- Frame swapped in place of the older one. If you wanted to get really crazy, you could add a longer swing arm, and go chain drive! As with ALL things modified, it would come down to "MONEY"! If you have questions about anything mentioned, feel free to PM me, and good luck with this project, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Doc, When I insert the drive shaft in the tube, I have the tranny in neutral. When it feels like I have the drive shaft in the yoke of the U Joint, I turn the drive shaft by hand, and have Jean shift the tranny to first gear. If the drive shaft stops turning, then all is well. If the drive shaft will still turn, that lets me know that I have missed the splines in the yoke, and I need to try again. Another tip, When I insert the drive shaft into the tube, I have the yoke on the end of the drive shaft so the splines can only go side to side, NOT up and down. With the tranny in neutral, if I get it close, the input yoke can rotate slightly, and the drive shaft has a better shot of lining up. This is a pain in the neck, service, but well worth it. Good Luck with this project, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Your fears are perfectly normal. The fact that you have admitted your limitations is half the battle! V7Goose has broken it down very nicely. There isn't ANYTHING that should be ignored on your bike as far as maintenance goes, but if you use the list of things that are important to YOU, (Safety, function, comfort, etc.) to get your maintenance items in order, then all will be well. My second suggestion is to get out and RIDE! Attend a Meet-N-Eat, make some contacts. Go to a local Maint. Day, let the VR.ORG members help you work thru your Maint. List. The mear fact that you will not be paying for dealer labor charges means that you will save a TON of money! And you might accidentally enjoy yourself and make a few new friends! Try pushing the envelope of your "Comfort Zone." If a knowledgeable VR.ORG member like V7Goose (or many others) offers you an opportunity to contact him with your Maint. questions, make the effort to get in touch with him. It will be time well spent. I have found that this forum is not only about just learning how to Maint. our bikes but the sharing of our love for these wonderful machines, and the actual riding of them. Lastly, if you are just going to let your scoot sit in the garage for fear of "wearing something out", then you might as well own a Harley! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Right under the nice pic of the Mobil 1 15W50 oil bottle, the author of this article states, "Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles." And that is why I made the comment that I would not "Risk" running an oil in my bike that might cause clutch slippage in a high mileage bike. I would also like to point out that this very same article starts off by saying that the Rotella is pretty much the best oil to use, and is certainly the least expensive, and is sold at Wally Mart. So if the idea here is to save money on your oil changes, then the hands down winner is the Rotella Sync. oil. As with all things oil, opinions vary. If you want to add some "risk" to you life, try removing the, "DO NOT REMOVE" Tag from your mattress, and DON"T risk flaming the clutch out of your high mileage V4 Scoot! Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Bobby, A deal on engine oil is not a deal if you end up replacing your clutch friction discs! To the best of my knowledge, the 15W50 Mobil1 has the friction modifiers in it. Because your clutch pac has quite a few miles on it, I would not risk anything in the engine that would produce a slipping of the clutch. What would normally be a flush and oil and filter change in a low mileage scoot could turn out to be a clutch friction disc replacement in your case. I have no idea what you paid for your bike, but I would be willing to BET that it was more than $23.00 . Even if you spend $40. or $50. for an oil and filter change, and NEVER had a problem with your bike, isn't this wonderful machine worth it? Aren't YOU worth it?? I have spent more than $50.00 on stupider stuff than the proper oil for my bike that brings me so much pleasure! If you really want to save a few bucks, AND still put the proper oil in your bike, use the Rotella. I am SURE you're gonna' do what you're gonna' do... Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    You say the connection bolts are tight on the plus and minus battery terminal posts, but in reality, the nut on the bottom of the terminal post bolt could actually be corroded to the bolt and not tight at all. Also, the bolt could have been overtightened and the lead terminal post could be split, and will NEVER tighten up. Remove both plus and minus cables from the battery, clean the ends of the cables and the terminal posts, and reinstall. Here is the fuse box kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3231&title=first-gen-fuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 I suspect the battery is gone. When ever I am doing a project on my scoot, If I come across a connection joint, I take it apart, clean and use the dielectric grease on it. Every time. Without knowing weather or not you have a good battery. chasing electrical gremlins is going to be a tuff job. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2742&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery&cat=22 There has been a lot of good input in the preceding posts. Good luck with your hunt! Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey T, YOU Sir, NEED to go for a ride bad, Brother! (but that was a great answer!) Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, As I have been off the site for a few weeks, and am now back on for a very limited amount of time because of my most recent surgery, I was attempting to answer a post in a thread last night around 1:00 AM EST and when I hit the "submit" button to send my post, I got an "Server Error Message" and was booted out of the VR.ORG site. My post was lost. I re entered the VR.ORG site, re wrote the post, and hit the "submit button", it took so long for the post to appear that I finally gave up, and kicked out of the VR.ORG site. Please understand that I am not complaining about this issue, I am merely passing on this information so you can get a handle on the problem. Because I am some what of a "Night Owl" I have always enjoyed the speed of the VR.ORG site during the late, late hours because of the lack of traffic on the site. I am a bit confused as to why the site would be so slow at that hour of the evening, because the use of the site is at a minimum. All of the other sites I visit at that late hour function properly. You do such a great job keeping this site functioning for us that I know this must be a "thorn in your side". I wish you the best of luck finding out what is going on, and admire you for your diligence in dealing with these problems. As far as adding new Apps. to the site goes, Remember the old adage, "No Good Deed Goes Unpunished"! Thanks for all you do, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I have attached a pic of the MKII VR Driver's Backrest that is on mu 87'VR Currently. The pic shows ALL of the parts that are needed to install the Backrest. If you have questions about the install, please feel free to PM me. This backrest was one of the best items I have added to my VR from a comfort standpoint. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Oscar, If in fact it is NOT tire noise, then here is what I have run across when installing a VMAX/FJR1300 Final Drive in a V4 Yamaha bike. There are two things that cause misalignment in the final drive when a VMAX final drive is installed in a RSTD. The first is a spacing bushing that passes thru the final drive and the rear axle passes thru the bushing. If the bushing is too short, the rear axle bolt is over tightened and causes the final drive to whine. The second issue is the "nose of the final drive could be short, and needs to be shimmed to keep the rear axle bolt perpendicular to the drive shaft axis. Here is a link to pics of the final drive shim. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2718&title=vmax-final-drive-shim-21&cat=22 When a VMAX final drive is installed in a RSTD, it needs to be "set up" (checked for bushing length, and the final drive mounted "static" (without the final drive nose bolts tightened) to verify that it doesn't need the final drive shim) If you just "slap it in there", you could have final drive noise and final drive damage. The easy check is take your bike for a 20 mile ride, get down and put your hand on the left side of the final drive. It should be warm, but not to hot to touch. If it is to hot to touch, you have a misalignment problem. If it is just warm, it is most likely tire noise. Try changing the air pressure in the rear tire and see if the sound changes. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Happy Birthday Brother! You, my friend are like fine wine, the older you get, the better you are. (But you NEED to stop flashing that phony Ohio State Student I.D.Card!) Earl and Jean
  24. skydoc_17

    Open your Eyes

    skydoc_17 replied to ibents's topic in Videos

    If the utterance of that one word saves one motorcycle rider's life then it was worth it! Earl (NOT Jean)
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, Jean here. Earl gets one part from the UK for one of his kits and we placed an order 2 weeks BEFORE Christmas! We are STILL waiting on those parts! When Earl called about the parts to US Custom's, he got a bit "testy" with the guy on the phone and the Custom's Officer flat out told him that if he puts his "John Handcock" on a package, and it blows up after it leaves, then he looses his job, and could be prosecuted, so guess what the Officer said next? "Mister, we don't ship ANYTHING out until it sits around for 6 or 8 weeks", then if it's gonna' blow up, it will do it here. Don't you just love a bureaucracy! Earl has a talent for cutting thru all the BS, unfortunately, sometimes you don't want to hear the real truth about the situation. Your Carbtune is most likely sitting in a warehouse in NYC somewhere, waiting to blow up! Jean
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