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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. Hey Pastor, First off, welcome to the VR.ORG site. I commend you on this project, it's "not an oil change", that's for sure. There are quite a few members that have made this swap, and I am sure at least one of them is going to chime in here shortly. The $12.00 Membership fee gets you expanded and upgraded Electrical Diagrams of both the 1200 and 1300 bikes in the Tech. Section. Good luck with this project, and again, welcome to the site. Earl
  2. Hey Buddy, This is a REALLY Cool head light for the Second Gens! You being the electronic wiz, (Unlike Me!) would it be possible to A) connect the white LED's to a "blinker relay" and have the head light appear to Modulate as you were driving down the highway, B) connect the Yellow LED's to the present turn signal system on the RSV and have an extra set of turn signals right in the head light? If I had a Second Gen., I would be ALL OVER THIS! I've SEEN your bike Buddy, you're my hero in the LED Dept. Just wondering, Earl
  3. Hey Kyle, I can tell you for certain that the fork seals sold on Ebay are JUNK, the starter motor brushes sold on Ebay are JUNK, and the front and rear Master Cylinder rebuild kits lasted a BIT longer, but not much! I have not tried the brake caliper rebuild kits yet, and most likely will not. But YOU could be our "Crash Test Dummy", so to speak. Let us know how that works out for you. Earl
  4. Hey Bob, I am very pleased to hear that "Goldie" is breathin' again! Electrical problems on these bikes can be a real bear. Way to stick with it! Ya' Done GOOD! Earl
  5. Jean and I love to Garden in the spring and summer, both flowers and Veggies. Next would be machining things in the shop. I love to take a chunk of metal and make something out of it. This is about as close to "art" as I am able to come. I wish I could draw, or paint. Earl
  6. Hey Gary, Half way up is plenty of oil for these motors. Any higher, and when the crankcase pressurizes while running, it looks for a place to seep out. That seal being one of the lowest points on the engine allows it to seep there. After you lower the oil level, if you ride regularly, it will take about a week to 10 days for ALL of the oil to stop leaking. But it will. It just happens to be a "Quirk" of these motors. Earl
  7. Hey Gary, Congrats on getting that new to you engine installed! Get that bike up on the center stand, and make absolutely sure, that the oil level is not past HALF WAY up the sight glass! I'm not talking about 3/4 of the way, or 5/8 of the way, If it is over 1/2 way, drain out some of the oil and see if that stops the leak. One other area to check is, if you didn't put new valve cover gaskets on the engine BEFORE you installed it, look at the back of the rear cylinder head valve cover and see if you have oil dripping from the rear of the valve cover down onto the drive shaft boot. I hope it is something simple like the above items, because changing that seal while the engine is in the bike is a challenge. Earl
  8. Hey Gary, I did make a mistake on the Rev. number on the stock oil filter from Yamaha. The correct part number is in fact: 1J7-13441-10-00 I have corrected that previous post. Thanks for bringing that error to my attention. Earl
  9. Hey David, That Virago looks like an excellent second bike! In fact, if you pose this solution to your son, and he throws a "hissy fit" then you know you made the correct choice, because it appears as if he has trouble controlling his emotions. And if he is happy with the selection, then you will have a much better understanding of his maturity. There is a shim kit that can be installed in the Virago starters that solves the starter to starter clutch alignment issue. It's a simple fix. That Virago will go 65 just fine, and frankly, do you really want him going much faster than that? When he proves himself on the 500, step him up to something larger. I'm sure you will be able to get your money out of a nice looking bike like that. "Patience grasshopper, patience!" That's what I had to tell my sons. Earl
  10. The part number has changed on the oil filter from Yamaha. The old 26H-xxx number is now 1J7-13441-10-00. The next thing I wanted to say is that I wouldn't run a FRAM filter in my bicycle much less any motorcycle I own. I have seen way to many of these filters go to BYPASS after only a few hundred miles to trust any engine to them. There is an English company called UNI that makes the "Hiflo" filter for the First Gen. VR, the part number for that filter is HF146. In my opinion, this is an acceptable replacement for the Yamaha oil filter. With the engine oil being the "life blood" of your motor, do you really want to do the "Snoopy Dance" about the fact that you spent $3.00 on a "wanna be" oil filter for your bike? I can remember a time when there was an adapter "can" made for automotive filters where a roll of toilet paper could be used instead of a "real" oil filter. For darned good reasons, that silliness was nipped in the bud. I am all about saving a few bucks on parts for my bike, but past a certain point, the rebuild of an engine, (or scrapping of the entire motorcycle because of engine failure) or the purchase of a used motor, would buy a boatload of better quality oil filters. I have seen more than one person spend a LOT of money fixing a "cheap fix". Earl
  11. I have run a few different types of tires on both of my First Gen. VR's including the Venom's. Form a handling standpoint, they were the best tire I have ever put on my bike. Unfortunately, I have had the "cracking issue" with almost EVERY Venom I mounted. For the money, I now run the Dunlop E3 on both of my VR's. Performance is comparable to the Venom and the price is much better, and there is NO issue with the tire cracking. I would NOT mount that tire! AND I would question a Vendor that would send a tire looking like that out to a customer with it being brand new. Earl
  12. Hey David, This bike is quite a "step up" from a 250 motorcycle! The V45 is as fast, if not faster than your MKI VR up to about 70 MPH. It is slightly more "top heavy" than say a 650 twin. From a mechanical standpoint, poor oiling to the top end causes these motors to become "noisy" (valve noise) in the 25,000 mile range. There is a kit to solve this problem. Before you purchase this bike, let it run on the center stand for 15 minutes and listen for the top end noise. If it has it, you don't want this bike. The last point I want to mention is, this is a VERY FAST motorcycle! Because I don't personally know your son, it is not for me to judge his level of maturity. I will say that this bike has the potential to be a "hand full" for an adult rider. The power to weight ratio is VERY HIGH. This would be a classic example of "all the gear, all the time," when riding this motorcycle, even if you live in a state where a helmet is not required. My rule with my sons is that "if you get a ticket, or lay this bike down, from going too fast for conditions, then you WALK!" Out of ALL the bikes you could choose, for a "second bike", this is on the very, very, high end power wise, of a bike fit for a teenager. I will say this, both my oldest sons stepped up to a bike similar to this one, during their transition to the bikes they currently ride now in their early 20's, one of my sons did VERY well, where the other son, had to be "downgraded" to a medium sized twin, (550) until his "need for speed" could be contained. I personally use the "VERY FIRM, but fair" method with my three sons, and have had to be ruthless in the enforcement of the ground rules of All the gear, all the time, no tickets, no crashes, etc. I personally don't believe that a young person should ever be made to fear ANY machine. BUT, they should be taught to have a healthy RESPECT for the power of a machine that can go over 100 MPH at the flip of the wrist! You strike me as the type of person that knows his son very well, and I feel confident that you will make the right choice. Keep in mind that you are introducing your son to the world of motorsports, which could become a life long passion, with all of the thrills, and good times that we have all experienced during our time in the saddle. If your relationship with your son allows you to look him in the eye, and convey just how important it is for him to "keep his wits about him", when riding this very powerful motorcycle, then this bike will serve him well, and introduce him to the joys of motorcycle riding. If your relationship is anything LESS than that, then perhaps a mid sized twin is a better fit. Only YOU can answer this very important question. On a lighter note, I have attached a pic of the V45's "Big Brother", a 156HP V65 Magna. My thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl
  13. Hey Don, Very Nicely DONE my friend! For a bit more of a finished look, Take some electrical tape and wrap the wires together on each side of the fuse box back to the harness. Other than that, you did an excellent job! The neatest thing about the fuse box kit is, when you read the last sentence on the instructions, you are ready to start your bike! Great Job! Earl
  14. I think it's gonna' take more than Dyna Beads to "Balance" Dan! Earl
  15. When I ride Two Up, I have the Air Ride Controller, (Air in the front and rear shocks) set for comfort, as well as the tire pressure set for the additional weight. When I want to add to my "Gray Hair Collection" on my head by going fast, one up, I adjust the air in my shocks, the firmness of the swing arm and tire pressure a much different way. When I add the 15" rear wheel and NOS for "Drag racing" the bike gets set up in a third configuration. The wonderful thing about these bikes is that they can be "tweaked" for different riding styles, and different types of riding. I don't think twice about adjusting the seat back when I drive my wife's car, as well as adjusting the mirrors. I approach the riding of my motorcycle the same way. I decide if this is going to be a "Sunday Drive" kinda' day, or "I'm hunting for VROD's" kinda' day. At that point, I confirm in my mind that I am working within a certain set of parameters as far as my bike is concerned, and I make sure I ride within those limits. (although I have been known to pull to the side of the road to make adjustments when the "Need for Speed" takes hold). As many of the VR.ORG family can attest to, I try my very best to keep my motorcycle in excellent operating condition, and if I find that a "perishable item" like a tire, a set of brake pads, the position of my backrest or foot pegs is not to my liking, I CHANGE THEM. I guess what this all boils down to is "What are you willing to do" to make every ride you take safe, and comfortable for you and your passenger. If you are not willing to check your tire pressure regularly, if you won't adjust your shocks and swing arm for the type of riding you are going to do, If you won't change your clutch and brake fluid regularly as well as your brake pads, or service your final drive, then I guess it is "Scary" to ride around on a poorly maintained motorcycle. (Of ANY kind) Having, or not having a car tire on the rear of your bike is the LEAST of your problems, I assure you. Overfilling your crankcase with too much oil, not changing your fuel filter, or cleaning your air filters, or letting Ethanol laden fuel sit in your Carbs. for months at a time WITHOUT riding your bike is a LOT Scarier that going 15MPH over the speed limit in my opinion. I would rather ride my bike to the limit, than have my bike limit my riding. But that's just me. Earl
  16. Would smell as sweet! It doesn't matter what we call you Randy, just as long as we can continue to CALL ON YOU my friend! Your knowledge and your humor will always be appreciated, no matter what name you use. Also, the fact that your son has joined this site, and will carry on your name (no matter what it is) into the next generation is proof positive that you have made an impact on this forum, and your Son! 3 cheers for old "what's his name"! Earl
  17. Thank Heaven Big Tom doesn't get his ICE CREAM from the UK! He would have sunk that Island by now! Tom, I'm glad you got your Carbtune! Now I have a good reason to come up for a Carb. Sync! Earl
  18. Hey Brian, Here is a link to a thread I started a while back with the skinny on a Carb. Sync for the First Gen. MKII VR. The Manometer I used was a Carbtune, but the process would be the same with ANY Manometer: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35274 If you have questions, feel free to PM me. Earl
  19. Hey Marty, Far be it from me to question the depth of the work you did recently on your cylinder heads, BUT if you just had the valves ground and new seals installed, and did not check the clearance of the valve guides then that could be your low compression problem. A "wet" compression check would answer this question once and for all. The set of pistons and rings that Dingy is offering is a solid set of parts, I have never known him to offer parts that were not top notch. If you find out it is the Valve guides, then it might be time to "throw caution to the wind" and bolt on a set of VMAX heads, just for the fun of it, Earl
  20. Both Jean and I are sad to hear about Craig's heart attack. Prayers sent for a speedy recovery. Earl and Jean
  21. To dip OUR favorite SQUID(LEY) in chocolate would take...well... A boatload of chocolate! But it would beat the heck out of a boring old chocolate Easter Bunny! Hey this might be a great Idea, Chocolate SQUIDLEY Bunnies! Well maybe NOT! (Couldn't get many in those little boxes) Earl
  22. Hey Tom, I second Gary's thoughts on rebuilding a Clutch Slave Cylinder! I don't even bother trying to rebuild them at the shop any more. Less than 50% success rate. For some reason, people think they can NOT change their clutch fluid for many years and still have a functioning clutch and clutch slave. Save yourself the torment, purchase the NEW clutch slave, and be done with it. A speedbleeder makes it all the sweeter for the clutch fluid flush. Earl
  23. Hey Steve, If it has been a while since you changed out (flushed) the clutch fluid in the left side master cylinder, you might not have all of the clutch "feel" you should have. The other thing I wanted to mention is if you are trying to down shift thru more than one gear as you are coming to a light or stop, and NOT engaging the clutch lever between shifts, then that could be an issue as well. Try slipping the clutch lever out between each down shift and see if that helps. The last thing I wanted to mention is, the position of the shift lever may be too high or too low in relation to your foot and the floor board, if this is the case, then you might not be lifting you foot high enough to allow the shifter to "grab" the next gear for a down shift. The fix for this would be to lower the shifter pedal (with an adjustment of the linkage) to make the shifter pedal more comfortable to use. Just some thoughts, Earl
  24. What's up with all this unbridled Dulcimer playing going on with the VR.ORG members? Earl
  25. Hey Jack, Tell the truth, you scabbed that center stand off of one of those old, leaky creaky, First Gens, didn't you! Who would have ever thought that your parts bike for your Second Gen. would be a FIRST GEN.! And you STILL have a Cassette Player, Seems you forgot you HAD First Gens. when you were applauding V7Goose's comment about those Leaky, creaky Frist Gens. You can't serve two masters Jack, Seems just the other day I had to remind you that you have a First Gen. Rear Caliper on the back of your Second Gen. I mean what a deal, Detuned First Gen. Motor, First Gen. Rear Brake Caliper, 1/2 of a First Gen. front brake calipers, Cassette Deck, NO center stand, blown out rear shock, bad coils, non replaceable spark plug wires, and only $16 Grand. If you had three Second Gens. you would almost have one good First Gen. Earl
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