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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Did you reverse that 404 or did you run it in the direction of the rotation arrow? Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey D, Congrats on your "new to you" VR! Your ride home sounds like a few I have taken with a new to me VR! If you can get over Altoona, Pa. way, I would be happy to Sync. those Carbs. for you. Or even help with the Carb. Diaphragms. That battery problem is a pretty easy fix. You might try a dose of Seafoam for that choppy idle problem. Good luck with your new bike! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    OK Mike and Gary, You guys are KILLING me! I spend so much time working on other people's bikes that I rarely get a chance to work on mine! PLUS, to top it all off, I start back to work tomorrow for the first time in 21/2 years... ON DAY SHIFT! (5AM) Your bikes are looking AWSOME! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Not owning an MKI VR myself, this is the first I have seen the Block Off Plates Mounted on the MKI. BOY, did that clean up the front forks! (your polishing job is the BOMB!, by the way) Did you notice a difference in the amount of time it takes to bleed the brakes with the line that used to connect the Anti-Dive Valve to the front Calipers, now that it is gone? What a labor of love Mike, I am Impressed! Now, if we could just get some good weather, so you can show those puppies off! Very professional job! Ya' Done GOOD! Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Thanks Goose, I stand Corrected! Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    The Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I offer in the Classifieds uses ALL Genuine Yamaha replacement parts EXCEPT for the Heavy Duty Clutch Diaphragm Spring which is the PCW Racing Spring. The reason I use the PCW spring is because there is not a better Clutch Diaphragm Spring currently on the market at this time. My kit comes with a link to complete written instructions WITH color install pics. The shipping is included in the price of the kit. I also include a full friction disc to replace the 1/2 disc at the rear of the clutch pac. "One Click" Paypal "buy it now" option is available in my Classified ad. I also accept checks and money orders. Even MORE important than where you get you kit from is the fact that this issue should be addressed in a timely manner as the friction discs are in danger of premature wear due to the failure of the Clutch Diaphragm spring. For the VR.ORG members that have excessive friction disc wear, I offer to supply the additional friction discs with NO increase in shipping charges. Only the ACTUAL cost of the additional friction discs. The Steel Clutch Plates are also available with the no additional shipping charges deal. I offer this kit to the VR.ORG members to solve a common problem with the Single Clutch Diaphragm Spring on the MKII VR and Second Gen. RSV/RSTD's with factory quality parts, and the finest aftermarket parts available, to head off excessive clutch friction disc wear. I also PERSONALLY support the install of this kit thru email, PM, and REAL TIME telephone support. Here is the link to the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2905&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Here is the link to the First Gen. MKII VR Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2906&title=first-genmkii-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Here is the link to the First Gen. MKI VR Clutch Springs Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2709&title=first-gen1983-1985-mki-heavy-duty-clutch-springs26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you have any questions about the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit, or the install, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Scott, The 4 tubes you are referring to are in deed the overflow tubes for the Carbs. Keep in mind that because these tubes are pretty close to ground level, they collect road dirt and dust thrown up off the road from the tires. As Yammer Dan has mentioned, a dose of Seafoam in the fuel tank will help with sticking floats. No need to get crazy with the Seafoam, but with the Ethanol in the fuel these days, regular usage is not a bad thing. The other thing to do is ride this motorcycle regularly! These bikes don't like to sit! Not to mention, it does your soul a service to ride regularly. This is a common issue with bikes that sit a lot. Try the Seafoam, and put some miles on that puppy! YOU and your bike will feel much better for it. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    My recent arm surgery has me feeling the same way. Jean got me the ThermaCare Heat Wraps. They last 8 to 12 hours, they don't get too hot but hot enough to keep the blood flowing. You can put them ANYWHERE you need them, and I have even moved them as the pain creeped. They are pretty thin, and have an "Ace bandage" like set of straps built right into them. I get them at Wally Mart and they come in a red box. They have been working real well for me on cold days when I need to get outside. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    I had the pleasure to work on Jayceesfolly's 89'VR over the winter and we came up with an unusual but effective way to add some additional light to the rear of his bike. The bike came to my "little shop by the creek" missing the right side helmet lock. Jim expressed an interest in getting a lot more light during braking and was not nearly as interested in replacing the helmet lock. I removed the left side helmet lock, and fabbed up a bracket that was mounted on the two "tabs" that held the helmet locks. As you can see in the pics, I used a light bar that has found a home on MANY Second Gen. Motorcycles, as a matter of fact, this particular light bar was slated to be installed on a Second Gen. later this month. I have since had to order another one for the owner. Both Jim and I were pleased at the results, and the light output from this light bar far surpasses the original tail light. So if you can live without your helmet locks, this is an excellent way to add a considerable amount of light for BOTH running lights and brake lights on the rear of a First Gen. PLUS, if you did your shopping for an LED light bar at Maint. Day this year, (with all the Second Gen. bikes that attend) you could add this light bat to your First Gen. for only a few dollars! Enjoy the pics. If you have questions, feel free to PM me, Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Jim, You, my friend have the dredded Starter Clutch issue. Two ways to go here, throw some replacement parts at it, and hope for the best, or get the Dano Mod, and NEVER have to worry about it again. Dano stands behind every flywheel he modifies, and the results have been excellent. Here at the shop, it is the only way I will affect a repair on the starter clutch. I have personally seen, at least 6 people, buy all new parts for ths issue, and had the starter clutch fail a few months later. I have seen a few that held up though, so it's up to you. You have the choice to fix it once and for all, or fix it, and cross your fingers. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Lars, As others have mentioned, when the center of the tire wears down, and you roll the bike into a turn, you are actually moving the "contact patch" of the tire into an area where there is more tread. This would indicate that the previous owner spent a lot of time riding down the highway, pretty much straight up and down, without much leaning. If you bend down, and look at the tire from the side, the tire will look like it has a lot of tread left. BUT what you want to do is put the bike on the center stand, move to the rear of the bike, and look at the CENTER of the tire. Also rotate the tire and look for spots where the tread is thinnest. You may find an area or two where the tread is down to the wear bar, and this tire will need to be replaced. A side view of the rear tire is very deceptive, because the average rider spends very little time riding on the side of their tires! As far as the air box goes, check the top and sides for "vent holes" but keep in mind that the intake for your 1.2L engine which moves OVER 1000CFM of air is basically two feet from your face! So there is going to be a fair amount of "intake noise". I have seen where some open faced helmets amplify sounds coming from the engine and air box. Try switching helmets with a friend and see if the noise is the same. I have had really good luck using a super dense, insulation for heat reflection/sound deadening on side covers, speaker enclosures, etc. I am sure it could be used on the false tank cover to reduce the noise factor, if unlike most of us, this particular noise is not to your liking. I have attached a pic of the material. I sell a fair amount of this material for custom speaker installs on another site. If you are interested, feel free to PM me. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Richard, I think Randy may have hit the nail on the head. If you ride this bike like a twin, it will get crappy gas mileage. "Lugging around" in 5th gear below 65 is not what these engines were designed for. As far as the Float level goes, V7Goose has written an excellent article in the Second Gen. Tech. Section about checking/resetting the float level. The part you mentioned about vibration is almost a dead give away that you are lugging the engine at lower speeds. The top two gears in the Second Gen. tranny are pretty tall, so running at 80 in 5th puts the engine in it's "sweet spot" RPM wise. Running 45 in 5th gear is costing you 8 MPG's. Rev that puppy up, you can't hurt the motor, and not only will you see better gas mileage, you will definitely see an increase in the "Thrill-O-Meter" as well.
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Rick, Give this a try, Start the bike with the choke on, let the bike warm up, Ease the choke off a bit until the RPM's start to fall below 1000 RPM's. Turn the Idle Adjust Thumb Screw Clock Wise to bring the RPM's back up to 1000 RPM's. Back off on the Choke a bit more, Adjust the Idle Set Screw again, and so on, until the bike is running with NO CHOKE, at 1000 RPM's, warmed up. I have attached a pic of the Idle Adjust Thumb Screw. If the bike still will not run with no choke, then add Seafoam to the fuel tank, get it to run with the choke on, and run the heck out of it! (Freeway on ramps are my Fav!) Let is sit over night, and run the heck out of it again! Bu the time you have burned up that tank of gas you will know for certain if a good Carb. Cleaning/ Rebuild is in order. Many times this will clear up this problem, many times it will not. It is worth a try. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    The Second Gen. motor is NOT a direct swap for a First Gen. Motor because the front of the Second Gen. motor uses Mounts connected directly to the Cylinder Head instead of the motor mounts in the Crankcase of the First Gen. motor. The Jug/Crankcase area of the First Gen. that has the stock motor mounts will not bolt up to the Crankcase of the Second Gen. motor. The Cylinder Heads from the First Gen. OR the VMAX will not bolt to the Second Gen. motor and fit in the Second Gen. Frame. Just a general FYI. Now as we all know, ANYTHING can be "Custom Fabbed" to fit, but to answer your question, this is not a swap that can be done just by unbolting some parts and installing them in another bike. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Being a very passionate person in general, and eager to share my love of riding, and the repairing of these great machines, I am SURE I have been guilty of being overbearing from time to time. For this I apologize! In my zeal to share information with my fellow VR.ORG members, I become overly excited and having a quick wit, have been known to have a bit of "fun" at other people's expense. For this, I also apologize. As usual Don, your comments are always timely, and a good "reality check" is always welcome. Being a part of the "Family" we have here is one of the best things about this site. I will do my best to refocus my comments in a positive manner, and try to always remember that anybody can get the technical information from the repair manual, its the ability to share and communicate with each other on this site that is the real gift, much more precious than the $12.00 we spend. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    People say, "that VR's and RSV's are top heavy"! I guess it's all relative. Thrill seekers get their thrills with what ever they have handy. I'm sure that anyone could find faults with any machine on the planet, but just about the time they do, someone else will "do somersaults" with that same machine. "One man's pig is another man's prize". Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Boomer, FA123 for the organic FA123HH for the Sintered. I have the HH Sintered Pads in stock. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Here is the procedure for the replacement of the Carb. Diaphragms from the Tech. Library: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32121 Here is the Carb. Sync. Link from the Tech. Library: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 Because of the material that the Aftermarket Carb. Diaphragms are made of, you are going to WANT to replace ALL 4 Diaphragms, or the return rate will be different between the old Diaphragms and the new Diaphragms. Just an FYI. Have a look at the Idle Mixture Screws as well. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    The Idle is 950 to 1050 RPMS. I have attached a pic of the adjustment screw. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, An AGM type battery could be mounted horizontal, that might give you the space needed. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, Welcome to the site! If you pony up the $12.00 for membership, you can download the MKII VR repair manual, which is cheaper than purchasing the manual from a source like Ebay! The entire rear sub-frame must be removed, to remove the gas tank. It is not a fun job. I'm not saying that I have NEVER heard of a VR owner that has had to remove a fouled gas tank BUT, before I did all that work, I would remove the seat, remove the fuel sending unit, LOOK in the tank with a flashlight for rust, drain the tank, and LOOK again. I would also remove the fuel filter on the left side of the bike, and cut it open, looking for rust in the filter. You will most likely find that a fresh fuel filter, and fresh gas will be all that is needed to fire this baby up. If in fact you do see a bunch of rust in the tank, the removal of the sending unit and filter would have been things that you would need to do anyway, so there was no unneeded extra work done. I have attached a pic of the location of the fuel filter, when you remove the seat, you can't miss the fuel sending unit. You will need a new gasket for the reinstall of the sending unit. The removal of the fuel lines is another thing the Maint. Manual would be great for. A few of the fuel lines are moulded to make tight turns, and best replaced with Yamaha replacements. The main feed line can be replaced with standard fuel line, but will require removal of the air box, the fuel pump, and "the hands of a 10 year old boy"! :crackup:This is ALL still easier than removing the entire rear of this motorcycle, so start checking things out, and post again when you have more info on the condition of the fuel system. Again, welcome to the site, you are among friends! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Very nice work there! The polished lower fork tubes take this rebuild to a whole level. I don't think you are giving yourself enough credit for the work you put into that polishing job, it looks great to me! Because I have the MKII VR, I forget how "Ugly" those Anti-Dive Valves are on the MKI bikes. I like what you said about, "one less thing to clean." When you look at the old and the new side by side, the change is drastic. Thanks for sharing this project, and the dramatic results with us. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Jose, The only way to make the tire taller, is to go wider. The problem you have with your bike is, it is shaft driven, which means the drive shaft tube runs from the back of the engine to the Final Drive on the left side of the rear tire. So a wider rear tire, (to make the tire taller) could rub the drive shaft tube. The second problem you have is, 4th and 5th gear in the tranny of the Second Gen. bike is overdriven. If you go to a taller tire on the rear, you will basically be driving around in 4th gear ALL THE TIME. In 5th gear, the engine will be running at such a low RPM that the bike won't be able to get out of it's own way in 5th gear. My suggestion would be to make a "shock extension" to elevate the bike, and put the stock tire on the rear. If you would like help with this project, feel free to PM me. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Steven, What a nice Bike! The first VR I ever owned was an 86'VR. Ya' Done Good! And you remembered to post pics! NOW, just cough up that $12 so WE can get to work on this puppy! :crackup:Seriously, pony up for the membership, then download the MKII VR Maint. Manual, and as you move from issue to issue, just post what you have come across, and we will walk you thru it. Compared to the XS750, this will be a Cadillac! You didn't mention if this beauty was running or not? You couldn't have picked a better time to purchase a scoot, with spring right around the corner. Good luck with this project, you won't regret it! Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Bob Myers is Da' MAN, when it comes to all things machined. I am Glad he was able to help you out. How did your rebuild turn out? Earl
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