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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Derrek, That new rim/tire combo looks awsome! That is really thinking outside the box. I have the First Gen. and regularly run a 100/80/18 instead of the 120/90/18 on the front of my 87'VR with NO ill effects. (it does throw the speedo off!) It gives me much better cornering and makes the bike easier to handle in slow speed maneuvers. With the load capacity of that front tire at 3/4 of the weight of the entire bike, I don't think you will have much trouble with overloading it. I know this is not the best comparison, but the "darksiders" run the radial rear tires with the bias ply tires all the time with good results, I am sure time will tell if the "feel" is different. Being a person that fully enjoys having my bike "customized" for my style of riding and to enhance my ability to control it, I would suggest you ride that tire for a while, it the handling and control are acceptable, then go with it. From a visual standpoint, the rim/tire looks super cool! I would personally wear that front tire out before I would change it. Excellent Mod! Thanks for the pics! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    I smoke the "Black and Mild" from Middleton, they come in many different flavors, to match my mood, and they even have a "Wood Tipped" offering, that is pleasant. All of this line of cigars are pipe tobacco rolled into a cigar. They are not a "Stogie" by any means, but when riding my VR, or during times when it just isn't convenient to load and smoke my pipe, these cigars fill the void nicely. These cigars are manufactured locally, (King of Prussia, Pa.) so they are usually pretty fresh. Earl
  3. skydoc_17

    skydoc17

    skydoc_17 replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Hey James, I just got home! I am on the "Death March", twelve hour shift! 4:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. I had to beg for the weekend off just to help a fellow VR.ORG member over to work on his bike. This sure has cut into my "Working on bikes time"! The things a person has to do to pay the bills! Actually, I am just glad I have a job to go to at this point. Your Radiator is safe my friend, waiting to go to it's new home. If you need anything else, PM me. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, You currently have the Identical rear caliper that the Second Gen. has. If you put the same Master Cylinder as the Second Gens. have on your bike, I would say that your rear brake would be just as "touchy" as the Second Gens. are. But, if you send me a print, I will make the adapter bracket for you! Aluminum OK? (I personally would try the MKI VR Master Cylinder) Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Here Ya Go! First Gen. Progressive Fork Springs Link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2907&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 First Gen. MKI (1983 to 1985) S.S. Block Off Plates Link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3329&title=first-genmki-vr-anti-dive-s-sblock-off-plates-21&cat=22 First Gen. MKII (1986 to 1993) S.S. Block Off Plates http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3332&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 Questions, PM me. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey James, I have a good Radiator for the cost of shipping. PM me if you are interested. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Ryan, First off, welcome to the VR.ORG forum! Your MKI VR has a starter clutch instead of a starter motor with a centrifugal Bendix like a car starter. That noise you heard is the starter clutch "slipping". It will do this from time to time in the beginning, then get worse as time goes on, to the point where the bike will not start any more. You will want to chat with a member on the forum called "Dano", he has developed a "once and for all" fix for this problem. If this has just started, you have some time, BUT start saving for the repair, cause it's coming! Sorry about the bad news, but better to be forewarned than to be making a post about being on the side of the road with a blown starter clutch. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Larry, Welcome to the forum. Great bunch of people here, you'll have fun and learn a thing or two about your scoot. Condor, (Jack) is good people, and if you get a chance to take a ride with him, he will do you right. V7Goose is another encyclopedia of knowledge about the Second Gens. Don't be afraid to ask questions, and almost ANY member can be seduced with Ice Cream!Except Big Tom, he's a ROCK! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Obviously because I have not seen the cover, and am not able to measure the depth of the O'Ring groove, Right off the top of my head, I would say that the diameter of the O'Ring is too small, OR the depth of the O'Ring groove is too deep. If you tighten the bolts past spec, and water is coming out past the O'Ring then the O'ring is not being compressed against the water pump tightly enough. Much past 10 Ft. Lbs. is BAD because if you crack the new cover you're done, and if you wring off one of the cover bolts, you're done as well. I personally would return the cover and get another one. I am sure you paid a decent price for this part, make the company you purchased it from stand behind their product. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, I agree with jeff, I don't think the backlash is set incorrectly, I believe this is a much higher mileage Final Drive, and there is excessive Pinion Bearing Play in this unit. We just had a Member of this Forum have a simular failure in his final drive, the Pinion Bearing Locked up, and it rung the drive shaft in two. The final drive, the drive shaft, and the universal yoke had to be replaced, as well as his underwear! Your mileage may vary. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, I wear Steel toed safety shoes to work, and have my shifter lever adjusted for them. ANY time I wear my regular leather riding boots, (non- steel toed) I either have to adjust the shifter lever, OR lift my foot off of the foot peg to make sure the up shift is positive. If I don't, the result is exactly what you described. I strongly suggest you adjust the shifter to fit the shoes, (boots) you happen to be riding with at the time. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, This might be an indication that the pistons in that brake caliper are sticking, and keeping your pads partially engaged against the rotor. If you crack the bleeder, you should be able to "push" the pistons back into the caliper body which are on the outboard side of the caliper. Once that caliper is removed from the rotor, have a good close look at the pistons for brake dust build up, try pushing them with your thumb, if you can't move them by hand, they will not retract properly. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Barbie is still looking good at 50! She Stopped by the other day for a BARBIE-Q!!! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I would go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap telescopic magnet and "go fishing" for those screws. Just a thought, Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Ed, There are basically three things that have caused a bit of trouble when doing the clutch spring upgrade weather it be the PCW upgrade or the Kit that I offer with the PCW Spring and the replacement FULL friction disc. The first is that you NEED to drain the engine oil IF you are NOT going to do this project on the SIDESTAND. Because you have a trike, you WILL be draining the engine oil. The next is, when you have removed the friction discs and steel clutch plates, there will be a steel clutch plate in the rear of the clutch basket held in place with a retaining wire. Many people have thought they were looking at the bottom of the clutch basket, when in fact, there is still one steel clutch plate and the HALF FRICTION DISC still in the clutch basket. You cut the retaining wire and discard it, you remove the last steel clutch plate, you then remove the half friction disc and the spacing washers and discard these items. After soaking the new full clutch friction disc in engine oil, you start with the new full friction disc, then a steel clutch plate, then a friction disc, etc. (you get the point) The last thing that has caused problems is the pressure plate and the clutch basket have a "Dot" on them for alignment purposes, Many people miss this and install the pressure plate clocked improperly. When the dots are aligned, the pressure plate will be in direct contact with the last friction disc installed in the stack of friction discs and steel clutch plates. The new Clutch Diaphragm Spring goes on next located in the centering ring and the bolt plate and bolts go in after that. The clutch cover is installed with the new gasket provided in the kit. Please remember to refill the engine oil. and replace the running board and brake lever. You are now ready to take a ride. Here is the link from the Second Gen. Tech. section for the install of a replacement Clutch Diaphragm Spring and full friction disc. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518 If you have any other questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    I sell completely refurbished 4 brush starters for the First Gens. and have them in stock. If anyone is interested, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Shaun, I offer the MKI VR Clutch Spring Kit for the MKI VR here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2709&title=first-gen1983-1985-mki-heavy-duty-clutch-springs26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 I have the extra friction discs at my cost if you would like to install a "New" clutch. I also have everything you need to upgrade to the MKII single clutch diaphragm spring. If you are interested, feel free to PM me. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, I offer the First Gen. Prigressive Fork Springs in the Classifieds here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2907&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 I also offer the First Gen. Stainless Steel Anti-Dive Block Off Plates which allow you to remove the "battery hogging" Anti-Dive Valves from the front forks. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3332&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 This is the perfect time to install the Block Off Plates as you are already draining the front forks. Both of these items come with complete written instructions. If you have any questions about either of these items, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    I offer the First Gen. Progressive Fork Springs with written instructions and shipping included here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2907&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 I also offer The First Gen. MKII Block Off Plates which allow you to remove the "Battery Hogging" Anti-Dive Valves from the front forks while you are doing the Fork Spring Upgrade here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3332&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 I have both of these items in stock, ready for shipment. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Steven, The Second Gen. Valve Cover Gaskets do fit better, and are easier to install on the First Gen. motors. As far as the valve clearances go, as the motor accumulates miles, the valve clearance will continue to get tighter out of spec. Personally, If I had my valve covers off, I would adjust the valves. I keep the Second Gen. Valve Cover Gaskets in Stock, if you purchase the gaskets from me, I will send my shim kit and adjuster tool with the gaskets, you will restock any used shims, and if you brake the tool, you will replace it. This is an open offer by the way, to ANY VR.ORG member who needs to adjust their valves. If I can help you with this project, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Here's the skinny on the R1/R6 Calipers. The pic of the "Gold Dot" calipers you posted are from a 1999 to 2001 R1. The piston sizes are 27MM front, 30MM rear. All 4 pistons are Aluminum, which increases the brake lever "feel" as apposed to the "Blue Dot" calipers which have the steel pistons. The Aluminum caliper pistons expand and contract much more than the steel caliper pistons, so they wear out the seal kits much faster. For this reason, I would say that the "Blue Dot" calipers are more dependable. (Longer lasting seals) The pic you have posted of the "Blue Dot" calipers are actually from a 1996 to 1999 FZ1000. (pre R1 Sport bike) This was a transitional time for Yamaha as far as the one piece progressive brake calipers goes. Yamaha was able to produce the one piece caliper body, but the "investment casting" technology was still very young, and you will notice that the right and left sides of the caliper fluid flow path are connected with the steel tube located on the end of the caliper. The plus side of this particular caliper is that the stock brake lines can be used as the connecting port is a "top loader" as apposed to the "side loader" R1 Calipers, but the down side is that tube on the end of the caliper body is very easy to damage. The same seal kits fit all three variations of these calipers. You will need TWO caliper Seal Kits for each caliper body for a rebuild. One final note, "The Blue or Gold Dot" IS NOT REMOVABLE from the caliper body! To do a rebuild on these one piece calipers, the caliper pistons MUST be extracted from the INSIDE of the one piece caliper body. I have machined an extraction fixture to remove these pistons for the rebuild. If you use a pair of vice grips and damage the piston, the replacement pistons are $47.00 EACH! It also helps to have the hands of a 10 year old girl to do these rebuilds. I personally don't use the 1996 to 1999 FZ1000 calipers with the exposed tubes in the R1 Brake Swap because of the "Damage Factor" to the exposed tubes. I personally use the "Gold Dot" calipers on my 87'VR because I like the additional brake "Feel" and can rebuild them as needed. The BEST choice for the average VR owner is the "Blue Dot" R6 Brake Calipers with the steel caliper pistons. NONE of the R1/R6 Calipers come with the black plastic covers found on the old style two piece VR calipers. The "venting action" created by the absence of the caliper cover helps to cool the caliper body and decrease caliper fade. If anyone has any other questions about the R1/R6 Brake Calipers, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Carl, Thank you for the kind words, This really is more about YOU than it is me, my friend! Every time a fellow Venture owner repairs his own motorcycle, it puts a smile on my face! The VR.ORG forum has given me the courage to affect repairs to my bike that I would never thought possible, I am very glad to see that it has done the same for you. Ya' Done Good Carl, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, I sure did appreciate the fact that I had my "own section", made me feel special. The reality has been when other members boast of a kit or mod I have offered in the classifieds, and I make a comment on it, and post a link, (which I have been trying to keep from doing very often, wink, wink) I get a small spurt of interest, then for the most part, nothing at all until someone stirs the pot again. Because of the pricing I use for the VR.ORG members, and the decrease in interest of the items I have in the Classifieds, lately, I have been making kits and mods for a different set of bikes on another forum that still allows me to place listings in the general classifieds. On a personal note, the support from the VR.ORG members during the time I was on disability Ins. basically kept the lights on, and I will be forever grateful. (and that was why I "pressed" so hard for a while there) Now that I am back to work, my financial situation has completely changed, and the decrease in interest in my kits and mods has not affected me the same way. Because of ALL of the issues you are required to monitor on this site, the last thing in the world I want to do is cause you to have to change an entire area of this site. What ever you decide to do, I will be OK with it. Thanks for all you do Don, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, In the pic that Mike (Snaggletooth) posted, the "hole" that is straight down from the Carb. Diaphragm screw is the Idle Mixture Screw. There is a spring and a O'Ring on that screw. The end of the screw opposite the screw head is needle shaped. The end of the needle passes into the main bore of the Carb. If you over tighten this screw, you will damage the Carb. Body, and the only fix is to replace. I always PB Blaster that hole with the Idle Mixture Screw BEFORE I try to move it. Turn this screw Clock wise until it LIGHTLY bottoms. Then back the screw out two and one half turns. (21/2 turns) In the pic, the other screw is the float bowl drain screw. If you retighten that screw, you will shear off the O'Ring and the black tube for that Carb. will dribble fuel. Dingy sells a really nice set of plastic plugs for the Idle Mixture Screws, check the classifieds, or PM him.
  25. skydoc_17
    I always thought that the object of asking a question in an open forum was to Solicit the opinions of the other members of the forum. In the hope that the other members will divulge information that you were not aware of. As with every post I personally make, you are welcome to "take what you need" and leave the rest. I can honestly say that there have been very, very, few threads that I have ever read that didn't shed some new light on these wonderful machines that we all own and love. Is it true that sometimes you need to "wade thru" some of the posts to get to the "meat " of a particular thread, with out a doubt! Are there a bunch of "humorists" in this forum, yes in deed! Are there members of this forum that are extremely passionate about the subjects that appear in the threads, You bet! The Yamaha V4 is an exceptional motorcycle, in all of it's forms. Worthy of the exceptional people that own them, and are members of VR.ORG. I dare say that you would be hard pressed to find a more jovial, well informed group of owners at one of the other sites weather it would be for a car, a truck OR a motorcycle. It is indeed a "family". Can any member honestly say that they have not tolerated a family member while they "vented", or got "overly excited" about a subject, or was learning how to exercise their "social skills", OR just wanted some "attention"? We tolerate these family members out of love and respect, because this is what family members do. I try to keep this "family" attitude when I read the posts and threads on the VR.ORG site. And by doing so, I am guaranteed that I will come away with a better understanding of the machine I own, and the people that have posted. Earl
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