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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Ben, I keep that gasket in stock, and can get it right out to you. I have seen where the Clutch Friction Discs become "notched", (one side of the friction disc gets worn) and the friction discs "rattle" in the clutch basket. If the clutch is not actually slipping, then the noise is more an aggravation than anything else. You didn't say how many miles on the motor, but if the friction discs are notched, then I would guess around 50K +/- miles. If you would like that gasket, or would like to chat about other options, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    The MKI VR rotors are no longer being manufactured by Yamaha. The aftermarket EBC Rotors are no longer being offered by EBC as well. The LEFT Side MKII VR Rotor is NO longer available as a new part from Yamaha as of this writing. The right rotor can be mounted on the left side, but the "Venting Slots" would run in the opposite direction. (The Rotors were originally a right and left hand due to the slots) The aftermarket EBC rotors are no longer being manufactured by EBC as well. At this point, Used rotors would be the only option, unless you find a dealer or parts house with some on the shelf. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, It is funny that you mentioned this, I have had 2 First Gens. at the shop in the last week with broken side stand bolts. One VR.ORG owner from WV stopped by with a broken side stand bolt, (and a broken mirror when the bolt failed and threw his bike to the pavement!) I keep those bolts in stock, and I have a good used mirror, so he was on his way in short order. The other bike was a local owner, not a member of VR.ORG, and I had to trailer his bike to the shop with a broken mirror, a cracked fairing and cracked radio mounting plate, bent left side handle bar, and the radio controller on the left handle bar had snapped off! His bike is still here waiting on new parts to arrive just because of one kick stand bolt! I keep the bolts in stock, although the nuts are currently on backorder. I hope to have them next week. Your old nut can be reused, but it is very important to replace the old, worn, kickstand bolt to avoid the damage caused by a bolt failure and the bike crashing to the pavement. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3330&title=first-gengenuine-yamaha-kick-stand-bolt-21&cat=22 It's not important where you get the new bolt from, it is very important the you check out the condition of your kick stand bolt, and replace it before you spend a bunch of money. Randy, this was a VERY timely Post, as we are all taking advantage of the good weather this time of the year. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Rabbit, The slots in a metric screw have a different angle than a "American Made" screw driver. That's why it is so tough to get those Metric Screws out. Harbor Freight sells an Impact Driver for $14.00, and it has the Metric Angle in the interchangeable tips. I always try this method first. If the slots are "buggered up" then use a drill motor, and just drill the head off. Then use vice grips to get the threaded part out. Here is a link to a solution to this problem, once and for all: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3331&title=first-genvr-master-cylinder-s-scap-screw-set-21&cat=22 This kit is for the Front Clutch and Brake Master, If you want the set for the rear Master, Let me know. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Why Can't We Find a MAN Like THIS to Run FOR President!?!? Earl P.S. (This is NOT meant to be political, just a simple question, from a simple man)
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, The clutch switch is Part #41V-82917-01-00 around $45.00 from Yamaha. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, It sounds like your front fork springs have finally given up the ghost after 26 years! The fix would be the installation of Progressive Fork Springs. While you are at it, this would be an excellent time to remove the front Anti-Dive Valves from the bottom of the front forks. This is a nice weekend project. As far as the pic goes, it is definitely the Battery Fluid Level Sensor. If you have the flashing red light on your dash, and the "Battery Icon" is lit, that is the reason why. If the battery icon is not lit, then the P/O has taken care of that issue. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Your MKII VR has a VERY large "semi floating" rear rotor. The object of the "semi floating" rotor is to allow the segment of the rotor that actually comes in contact with the brake pads, (outer most diameter) to expand and contract independently (due to heat from braking) of the rotor hub. (the part of the rotor that bolts to the wheel) Because of 25 years of stopping your bike, the exposure to heat from the braking process has caused your rotor to "take a set", (remain slightly warped, even when NOT exposed to the extreme heat of the braking process) Normally, if this were a "racing bike", the rotor would be changed out, due to the fact that the "memory" of the metal of the outer diameter of the rotor has been lost because of exposure to extreme heat during braking. With the cost of a new rotor at close to $400.00, and the fact that the major "downside" of this condition is a slight loss in the number of miles you will get on a set of brake pads due to the constant rubbing, (you will notice one pad getting thinner than the other pad) AS LONG AS YOUR REAR CALIPER IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, (ALL 4 caliper pistons are floating in and out, following the bend in the rotor surface) braking will not be affected. Because of the extra heat generated by the rubbing pads, you could see a shortening in the service life of the rear caliper until one day, one or more of the caliper pistons will finally start to "drag", the rotor will be overheated and turn blue, and it will be time for a complete rear caliper rebuild. Which is here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2443&title=first-gen1986-1993-mkii-caliper-rebuild-21&cat=22 OR here for the MKI VR Calipers: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2642&title=first-genmki-1983-1985-caliper-rebuild-21&cat=22 Watch your brake pads closely, as one pad is going to wear much faster than the other side. (usually the inner pad, which is harder to see, but it could be either side) If the backing plate for the brake pads is allowed to come in contact with the rotor, physical damage to the rotor will result, and not only will you be buying a new set of brake pads, but a new/used rotor as well. Do I think you need to rush out and buy a new rotor, Hardly, (my own rear rotor on my 87'VR has been like this for several years) BUT you will need to keep a close eye on the function of the rear caliper and the wear on the brake pads so you don't compound your rear braking issue. If I can help you with rebuilt calipers, pads, or you have other questions about this issue, please feel free to PM me. Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Brett, Both Jean and I are really glad you are OK! Out of ALL the ways that coulda' turned out, I'd say that is the BEST "happy ending" you could have had! Would you mind sharing the type of tire and mileage on your tire to us? Had it been plugged? Did you notice any advance warning, or did it just "let loose"? Thanks for sharing the details with us, Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    I keep the FA123 HH Pads in stock and can ship them USPS Priority Mail Service. PM me if I can help you with this project. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Thanks for the kind words! That looks to be a first rate job on the fuse box upgrade there!As I offer with ALL the kits I sell, sometimes a few words of support over the phone make all the difference when working on a project that you are not familiar with. It was my pleasure to help you with this project. Keep up the good work, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Shane, Welcome to the VR.ORG site! The 88' MKII VR is a fine motorcycle, you should get many excellent miles out of her. Here is the fix for the blinking battery icon: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3439&title=first-gen1983-1993-battery-icon-bypass-lead&cat=22 As far as the E4 error goes on the air ride controller, try opening the door that exposes the radiator fill bottle on the right side of the dash. You will see the two plugs going to the rear of the air ride controller. With the key in the ACC position, try straightening out the wires to the plugs, and wiggling the plugs while looking at the screen of the controller. Remove the plugs and clean with aerosol electronic connector cleaner, (wally mart) then add some dielectric grease to both plugs. If this does not do the trick, then you will be removing the controller for a bit of soldering. As far as the "cricket" thing goes, DON"T linger in the 2500 to 3500 RPM range! This is not a big twin that you need to "chug around" on. Post up in the saddle, straighten your back, and ride this wonderful machine as if you are on "the Prowl", keep the revs up, and if you "accidentally" snack on an HD rider from time to time, then all the better! The harder you ride this bike, the less problems you will have with it. (less problems, NOT less maintenance!) Think of the "crickets" as an audible down shift indicator. I hope to see you on the road, Earl
  13. skydoc_17

    hey guys

    skydoc_17 replied to clay18's topic in Watering Hole

    I think Don's keyboard has developed a st...st...studder! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    It is suggested that a mix of 60% Silicate Free Anti-Freeze to 40% Distilled Water gives our VR motors the best protection. Anti-Freeze raises the temperature that water boils at, the WATER does the cooling. Also, when mixing the Anti-Freeze and water, ADD the Anti-Freeze to the water, NOT the other way around. The object is to have the Anti-Freeze molecule "encapsulate" the water molecule. Lastly, don't fill the radiator half full of water then add the Anti-Freeze, do your mixing BEFORE you put it in the bike. (Hard to believe, but I have seen it done) Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Jean and I are 30 minutes from State College. If you are up for a home cooked meal, a quiet room all to yourself, and Air Conditioning! We would LOVE to have you stay as long as you need to. No Pressure, just an offer. When on the road, a place to hang your hat, and a familiar face is comfort indeed. We don't happen to have any "Black Death", but do have a supply of Genuine, homemade South Carolina "Apple Smash", guaranteed o put a smile on your face! The drinking offer is not mandatory, the relaxing part is though! Earl and Jean
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey James, It is always a pleasure to help a fellow VR.ORG Member in need! I wish you the very best of luck with your project! Perhaps we can share some road together someday. I was thinking of you at Don's Maint. Day this past weekend, It would have been nice to see you. Maybe next year! Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Jonas, Both Jean and myself are very glad to hear that you are going to be OK my dear friend! Words can no express how sad I would be, to put many, many, many, many miles on your new, RED Second Gen. RSV without YOU! Every time I would ride that RSV, I would think of the miles we rode together, and the good times we shared together! It would be hard, but I would continue to ride that new, RED, RSV, just to MAKE SURE, it didn't just sit around, and go to hell from neglect! :whistling:Now that I have your attention Jonas, get yourself feeling better, and get your butt over here, so we can get some "therapeutic" riding under our belts! I am sure we will be able to have "Handicapped Parking Only" spaces set aside all over the US. I will start to work on a mount for your RSV to attach your "walker"! Perhaps this year, instead of the "Black Death", you could smuggle some "Ensure" from Iceland, although we do have it here! Lastly, I am sure I will be able to take MRS. JONAS dancing, and roller blading in your stead, I would NEVER let the wife of such a dear friend spend a moment alone in a faraway land by herself. Now that I got you good and "fired up", get your butt over here, let's do some riding, and let the healing begin! Earl P.S. After seeing the above post, Jean has assured me that it is going to be very hard to take MRS. JONAS "dancing".....with two broken legs! She has also assured me that she will be happy to "fuss" over you just as she always does! I guess YOU win again! GET WELL SOON....OLD MAN! E.
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Man, am I glad you are OK! I must have given you the Block Off Plates with the "Idiot Magnet" attached to them! Seems like the walking "Brain Dead" have been stalking you ever since you fixed up your bike! I will try to find the remote to turn the magnet off, now where did I put that thing, oh yea, it's right next to the CASE of FORK SEALS I now keep in the shop! Glad you're OK brother, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Frank, I don't think you purchased the "wrong bike", i do think however that you got "stuck" with the wrong dealer. Usually it's because the dealer is the closest one, or it could be because they are the only dealer in town. If a dealer proves to me that they DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING, I personally will not contribute to that dealer staying in business. Even if it means going to the next town to affect a repair. Very, very few of us found our "Soul mate, Wives, Girlfriends," on the first try, we "shopped around", (dated) until we found a good match, not a perfect match, but a match we could live with. Finding a dealer to trust your high end motorcycle to is a "courtship", if you don't put the time into the relationship, you will be left with an ugly divorce, so to speak. Because your bike is still under warranty, you absolutely NEED to find a quality dealer, one that will repair your bike properly, EVERY TIME! I don't know about you, but I have ridden over 100 miles round trip, just to get an ICE CREAM CONE!, a trip to the next town to try out another dealer is a no brainer for me. Just my thoughts, for what they are worth, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Jim, That would be 5.8 Foot Pounds or 8 Nuton Meters. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Yea, it's a cheapskate idea. I don't know about YOU, but I am worth EVERY PENNY of a Genuine Yamaha Rear Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit to STOP my 800 pound motorcycle! All Kidding aside Scott, I have an upgraded MKII VR Rear Master Cylinder Freshly Rebuilt. It will be more than a few dollars, but if you are interested, PM me. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Purchase another TCI box, mount it on the air box, remove the plugs from the stock box and plug into the new TCI. Job Done! Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    The "Friction Zone" method described above works well. Another method I use in "slow roll" situations is to tighten your lower abdomen muscles, and squeeze your knees lightly against the side cover/gas tank. Now, your lower body is "connected" to the bike, as apposed to just "sitting on the bike". To practice the "Friction Zone" method, find a parking lot, slowly roll forward in first gear. Now, apply some light rear brake, and use the clutch lever and throttle to continue to roll forward slowing the speed with a combination of rear brake, slipping of the clutch, and LIGHT usage of the throttle while "gripping" the side cover/tank with your knees and tightened stomach muscles. (NO need to rev the bike higher than 1500 RPMS, higher than that and you are overheating the clutch!) Once mastered, you should be able to stop the bike with your feet up, and if the bike starts to lean, a small amount of throttle, the slipping of the clutch, and the light application of the rear brake will allow you to start moving forward again. As long as the bike is moving forward, the "Gyroscopic Affect" of the wheels spinning will keep the bike from falling over. The skill is to use the rear brake, the clutch, and light throttle to slow the bike to the slowest forward motion possible, with your feet up. If the bike starts to lean to far to one side or the other, stomp your foot to the ground on the leaning side, give it the gas, and the bike will stand straight up as you pull away. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Clive, There is a "Release Clip" on the side of both plugs, while depressing the clip, you need to "wiggle to the left", "and wiggle to the right" , while pulling out on the plug. I find a "pinching motion" with the thumb and pointer finger works best for me. Large, fat, fingers add to the challenge, but patience will usually win out. Good luck! Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Thanks for those kind words! It was a pleasure to have you stop by "the little shop by the creek) this weekend. I had Gruel for dinner this evening, (I hope you're happy) we had a bunch left over, seeing as Jean cooked up all of the "Good Food" for YOU! Mike was a wonderful guest, (Do NOT let him NEAR any Parts Bikes) and we did some fine work on his 89'VR this weekend. I will attach some pics to this post later, Jean says it's past my bed time! Thanks Mike, for letting me help you with this project, Earl and Jean
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