skydoc_17

Hey Ivan, At well over 1000 lbs. with just a single rider, (I don't know what the Bimmer weighs) your VR puts a fair amount of downward pressure on those tires. You didn't mention the type of tire, and you didn't mention the mileage on your bike, (If the mileage is at 25K, I'd be looking at the tires a bit closer) and most importantly, you didn't mention how much air you are running in the tires! If you are running less than 40 PSI in that rear tire, (I run 42 in my EIII Dunlop) then try airing it up a bit BEFORE you take the entire rear end of your bike off! If you decide to replace that U joint, don't bother buying a used unit, you could just transfer someone else's problem onto your bike. Lastly, don't "cheap out" and buy the automotive U joint, it won't hold up to the amount of power the V4 engine has. Get the Yamaha U joint. I hope you find out that it is your tire honestly, that U joint replacement is not a "fun job". Earl

I'm Speechless, Jean Softly cried. Thank you for this most excellent Christmas gift! Merry Christmas from Jean and Myself to you Fuzzy and your family, my friend! Earl and Jean

Hey KIC, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit) Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot! If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking. With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic. While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected. Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything. Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend. Earl

Hey KIC, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit) Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot! If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking. With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic. While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected. Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything. Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend. Earl

Hey Mike, I have seen, (and Installed) more than a few of these "pod" type filters on VMAX'S and one or two Ventures here at the shop. If we realize that fuel (gas) as a liquid doesn't combust in an engine, and it is when air (oxygen) and fuel (gas) are combined (atomized) into a vapor, that creates the conditions that allow our engines to run. Yamaha (and every other post EPA manufacturer) restrict the air flow to the engine which allows the use of much smaller fuel jets which it turn give decent gas mileage, and almost total consumption of the hydrocarbons in the fuel. (clean burn) With the ratio of air to fuel being a constant, (which it is on our bikes, or any engine without supercharging, or turbocharging) if you add these pod filters to your VR, you will need to rejet the Carbs. BIG TIME! And I can absolutely guaranty you that your gas mileage will suffer as a result. BUT, you will see an increase in the amount of Horse Power that your V4 motor will generate. The second feature the air box provides is to "smooth out" the throttle response, by limiting the amount of air that can be drawn into the engine. Jack, to address your statement about the loss of Vacuum, each cylinder will draw the same amount of volume on the intake stroke, (1294cc divided by 4) so the amount of slider movement will be faster because of the lack of restriction. What this means in the real world: This bike with enlarged main jets and pod filters is going to have an increase in Horse power, the gas mileage is going to be in the mid 20's, the throttle is going to be extremely "twitchy", meaning it is going to basically have one speed, WIDE OPEN! So if you want a bike that would make an excellent "VROD Hunter", but barely idle at a stop light, and don't mind getting 25MPG, but have the ability to cruse on the highway at 100MPH all day long, then these filters are for you. If you would like to continue to ride your VR thru town, stop at stop lights every now and then without the bike shutting off, get between 38 and 50+MPG, and have your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend still on the back when you exit the freeway, then stick with the air box, buy the K&N filter, and call it a done deal! (This is the short version, but believe me when I say, "been there, done that") Earl

Hey Mike, You will need the stator cover gasket, and the middle gear cover gasket, (it has to be removed to get the stator cover off) and that little brass washer at the bottom of the middle gear cover. Be sure to use a GOOD gasket sealer around the rubber plug for the exit of the stator wires as well as the stator cover. (just to be sure) Both Rick's and Buckeye sell High Output stators for the VR. (As do I) Be sure you get the High Output instead of the stock. Consider "hard wiring" the stator and R/R. (cut the quick disconnect plugs out of these two circuits) If your R/R is still good, all will be fine, although there is an aftermarket R/R on the market, that functions better with the high output stator. I have all of the gaskets in stock, and can order the High Output Stator and R/R for a lot less than you would normally pay. If you are interested, feel free to PM me. Earl

Hey Kirby, Before the introduction of the PCW heavy duty clutch diaphragm spring, the Venture and Vmax owners used to double up on the stock clutch springs with no ill affects. (myself included) The Vmax owners dubbed this change "The Double D Mod". After a few weeks of riding with two stock clutch diaphragm springs in your clutch basket, you will be able to crack walnuts with your left hand, barehanded! :crackup:Just in time for Christmas! As technology has improved, I went the PCW clutch spring route because of the decreased amount of clutch lever force needed to hold the clutch lever in at a stop light. Plus I'm getting a bit older now, and my left hand started cramping after a long days ride. BUT this was "The Fix" for many years for the V4 Yamaha bikes that used the Clutch Diaphragm Spring. Since you will be spending "Zero Money" on the doubled up clutch diaphragm springs to solve the slipping problem, The $10.00 spent on a new clutch cover gasket would be a wise decision in my opinion. You wouldn't want to turn your bike into a "leaker". Take care to "center" the second clutch diaphragm spring over top of the first spring, or you could notice a small vibration at higher RPM's. The clutch lever engagement point will be affected by the addition of the second spring, so if you have "the hands of a 10 year old boy", (small hands, short fingers) :crackup:control of the "friction zone", might be a bit of a challenge. But the "Double D Mod" will most definitely cure the clutch slippage problem. Just in case you find the clutch lever pull to much: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Earl

Hey Mike, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, Those MKII VR's are a fine machine! I own a few myself. I have the Progressive Springs, The De-Link Kit for the MKII VR, EBC HH Sintered Pads, and a set of rotors from an 89'VR in excellent condition. Unfortunately, shipping to Canada is a bit spendy, but I will do my best to combine shipping where I can. ALL of the Late model R1/R6 rotors are too LARGE in diameter, and thin, (5mm vrs. 7mm) to fit the Venture, (282mm Vrs. 320mm) If you are interested in these parts, let me know. Earl

Hey Dana, I really like your Avatar! Here is a link to the Heavy Duty Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I offer in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you bike has been slipping for a while, you ride two up a LOT, or pull a trailer, I also offer the remaining 7 Genuine Yamaha Clutch Friction Discs as a package deal with the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit. I ship these kits USPS Insured Priority Mail, so you could have your parts by midweek. Just it time for a weekend install. The kit comes with complete written instructions, with color pics, and my personal email address and cell phone number. The install takes about 2 hours for a first timer, and will be the best money you can spend on your RSV. It doesn't do any good to have all that power, and not be able to transfer it to the rear wheel! If you have questions, or would like to order parts, please feel free to PM me. Earl

Hey Dick, I am very sorry to hear that you are not feeling well! I am glad to hear that your bike is doing much better with the new DEKA Battery! One of the nice things about the DEKA is, It will be ready to go when you are! Hope you feel better soon, Earl

Merry Christmas From Jean and Earl. ENJOY! http://www.flickspire.com/m/Share_This/changeforadollar?lsid=161f9da9b7692b6

Hey Randy, Nice Job! I really like the aftermarket radio! I have added a few pics of my Garmin Nuvi 855W Mounted. Earl

Hey Leonard, Here's a link to the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I offer in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you have questions, please feel free to PM me. Sorry to hear about your leg, I hope everything heals well! Earl

Hey Al, I have done quite a few San Diego, Ca. to Norfolk, Va. trips (and back) over the years on my 86'VR, and you will be traveling down south during the better time of the year. (not to hot) I would suggest a brake and clutch fluid flush, a radiator fluid flush, Final Drive oil change, and the rear wheel hub splines and drive shaft splines greased, for a trip of this length. I also like to start out with a fresh engine oil and filter change. Because of the "dusty" conditions in the southern central states, I like a new air filter as well. The amount of tools and extra parts that one could carry is endless, but here is a list of my favorites: One large can of "fix-a-flat" (truck size) Tire plug kit Stock Yamaha Tool Kit (or a set of basic tools) Metric Allen Wrench set (with the "ball ends") A small air pump (tire inflater) A GOOD air pressure gage A set of decent quality, light rain gear A bottle of plastic cleaner/polish and a soft cloth for cleaning the bugs off of the windshield and face shield. Print out the members list from VR.ORG for the states you are passing thru! (priceless!) I keep an 8MM boxed end wrench in the right front pouch in case a brake caliper overheats, and locks up, and I need to open a caliper bleeder in a hurry to move my bike off to the road side. My GPS is an MP3 player as well, so I load the MP3 player with a lot of "Travelin' Music" Bottled water. (When I get dried out, I find I get "tunnel vision", and my reflexes slow way down) I restock water as needed. I have made this 3000 mile ride in 3 days. (I will NEVER do that again!) I found 5 days was a "brisk" pace, but did that several times. As I got a bit older, 6 days, (500 per day) was a good fit for me. I usually camped each night, and I was tired, but not so sore that I didn't want to get on the bike the next day. Because of the warmer temps. down south, I found that the "Monkey Butt powder" worked wonders for me. Others have used a sheep skin or the "taxi beads" to "air out" the family jewels. Sunscreen is not a bad idea as well. There is nothing worse than after a long days ride, you can't sleep because your face or arms are burned up from the sun! I try to be sure to hydrate myself at EVERY fuel stop. The last thing I want to mention is, if you hit bad weather, (rain, heavy fog, frost, etc.) SLOW your pace, riding with your "butt puckered" isn't any fun, and basically wears you out much quicker. Since you are not pressed for time, (14 days) you could burn two tanks of gas a day, take 10 days for the trip, and stop and "smell the roses" so to speak, and this could be the trip of a lifetime. Check your tire pressure EVERY morning, and the Radiator overflow bottle, (this is the first sign that your bike is "using" radiator fluid, not uncommon for bikes of this age, but you want to keep the fluid topped off) I am sure others will have their favorites, Have a great trip, Earl

Both Jean and I have Hipshot in our prayers. Earl and Jean.

Hey Mike, If you want to insert the probe in a wet cell battery that does not have the "probe hole", remove the cell fill cap closest to the center of the battery, wrap the probe with common black electrical tape until the probe body diameter is a "push fit" into the cell fill hole. Increase or decrease the wraps of the tape until the probe fits snugly into the cell fill hole, and it's a done deal. I also wanted to mention that the CMU is NOT supposed to see a direct 12 volts. If the probe wire has been directly connected to a 12 volt source, (like directly to the battery) The CMU has been damaged, and even installing the probe into the battery properly will not make the light go out. Unless you have the gift of circuit board troubleshooting at the component level, (which I do not have) you will need to pick up another First Gen. MKI CMU from a used dash unit. The MKI (1983 to 1985) and the MKII (1986 to 1993) CMU's are different. I hope the install of the probe cures this issue for you. Earl

Or This: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3766&title=first-genbattery-icon-bypass-lead-kit-21&cat=22

Hey Bubba, Welcome to the VentureRider Forum, We hope you decide to stick around! You have already saved more than the $12.00 it will cost to join, by NOT having to replace the Air Ride Controller! If it turns out to be that you have a Maint. Free Battery without the hole for the probe, check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3766&title=first-genbattery-icon-bypass-lead-kit-21&cat=22 This will take care of the issue nicely! Take some time, look over the First Gen. Tech Library, and don't be afraid to ask questions! Earl

Since the age of 13, when I rode my first dirt bike, I realized that I was a full on "Adrenaline Junkie". I realized even earlier that I didn't like people telling me what I could, or could not do. My Psychiatrist tells me this condition makes me an "Antisocial" person. I have lived my entire life by my fists and my wits. As I have gotten older, it appears as if it is more "wits", than fists these days. But the fact remains, I'll take a beat down before I will let another human being tell me "what is best for me", in their opinion. I have seen people live their entire lives driven by Fear. The fear of what other people might think of what they are doing, the fear of working on their own bikes because they won't do it "perfect", the first time, the fear of wearing a striped tie with a checked jacket?!?! The fear of wearing white after March! (Good Grief) Now don't get me wrong, there are things I am afraid of, like the fact that my children might never own their homes, that I might have to "push 1 for English" to cash my paycheck, and things like that. But if a full grown man or woman wants to take a ride on their motorcycle, with the wind blowing thru their hair, then I say, "you go boy" because the last time I checked, we still live in the old US of A, where (If the law permits) you can choose to wear, or not wear the gear of your choice while riding your motorcycle. I have been known to ride my bike "slightly over the speed limit" from time to time, and even on one wheel occasionally, (accidentally of course) and I DO wear a helmet and leathers in a state that does not require it, not because of fear, but to be prepared. I wouldn't expect an NFL football player to play ball in his "Snoopy P.J.'s" and I don't ride my bike at 105 MPH in my BVD's either. If I choose to run to the market without my helmet, then I have chosen to do this, and I accept the reality of what may happen. If given the choice of living forever, but giving up every "crazy thing" I have ever done, and lived thru, or dying tomorrow, while flying down a 2 lane, with a good cigar clenched in my teeth, 15 over the speed limit, on one wheel, staring "steely eyed" at an 8 point buck smack in the middle of the road..... Well, you get the point. ANY "Bone" I have ever taken hold of, has NEVER been released, and will only be pried from my cold, dead, right hand, with an empty clipped 9MM in the left hand. WE ALL DIE! That's a fact. I am sure Jean will cry just as hard if I am 110 and dead in my bed, or 56 years old, and died doing what I loved to do all my life. I think Jeff was saying that he PERSONALLY prefers to decide for himself, as do I, and I commend him for having the courage to speak up. As far as "sayin' something stupid" at the totally wrong time goes, being a loud mouth wise cracker myself, I have an infinite amount of forgiveness about that one. My dad used to tell me, "Boy, the only time you open your mouth is to change feet!" This is a difficult time for the members of this forum, we have seen MANY members go down this year, and for the "Control Freaks" in our group, this has been almost unbearable. It also makes the rest of us wonder, "is motorcycle riding still a viable option for ME because of my age, physical limitations, hearing, sight, short legs, hands of a 10 year old boy, etc.". Each of us will need to CHOOSE to answer these questions for ourselves, and there is nothing wrong with a "Reality Check", from time to time, just like an oil change, or a tune up, or a new rear tire. My suggestion would be to continue to ride defensively, wear the gear if it allows you to feel more comfortable during your ride, continue to "smoke um' if you got um'", and don't EVER let anyone. or anything, try to take the FREEDOM to CHOOSE to ride your motorcycle from YOU, EVER! Earl (P.S. Get well soon Dan)

Both Jean and I send prayers your way Dan and Rose. If there is anything we can do, please let us know. Dan is the perfect example of a member of VR.ORG. Caring, helpful, knowledgeable, and a true friend. We both pray for a speedy recovery. Earl and Jean

Hey Gary, I have a good Radiator from an 87'VR if it would help. PM me. Earl

Hey Jay, Here are some things I have run into, and the things I did to narrow the cause down. Because pretty much all fuel has Ethanol in it now, (which is alcohol based=collects water) when sitting for a period of time the water being burned actually creates steam out of the tail pipes. An once of Seafoam per gallon in your tank will change the composition of your fuel and will let you know if this is the issue. If you have been running "High Test" gas in your bike, the operating temp. of the motor has been lowered, and you are seeing "burn off" of a sooted up combustion chamber. Trying running 87 octane gas to solve this issue. I have also ran Seafoam in the crankcase right before an oil change to remove combustion deposits in the engine. Try an adjustment of the "Idle Mixture Screws" to lean out the mixture during extended idling. The First Gens. do run a bit rich fuel wise, try the "Needle Shim Mod" to lean out the fuel supply if it is smoking while you are reving it up. As far as a Valve Adjustment goes, at 45,000 miles you are due. I offer my shop Valve Shim Kit with the cam tool and an assortment of shims for the cost of the shipping, and the purchase of a set of Valve Cover Gaskets. If you have any questions about anything I have mentioned, please feel free to PM me. Earl

Ah Shucks Everyone, thank you very much for thinking of me today! With times as tough as they are, and the riding season coming to an end for many of us, I am pleasantly surprised that you would take time out from your busy day to throw an "Old Dog" a bone. I took part of the day off, Jean and I went for a ride on the 87'VR (without the rear trunk on, which Jean was not too happy about) but the sun was shinning, and the temps. were in the low 60's. (Great temps to wear the leather jacket and chaps) We had a BBQ dinner and my brother and a few friends stopped by to see if I was still kickin". A great time was had by all. Thanks again for thinking of me, Many things have changed in my life in the last year, but it is good to know that the friendships I have with the members of this forum still ring true. Earl and Jean

Hey Brian, When I saw your "Handle", ( Anguish) and saw the header of your thread, (OOPS!) I knew that this was going to be a sad thread! Anyone that has a First Gen. and doesn't have a scuff or two on those two corners either has the "Luck of the Irish" or leaves it parked in the garage ALL the time! With that being said, those side protectors from Markland haven't been manufactured in over ten years. If you found a set on Ebay, or Craig's List, it was a miracle. Yamaha stopped making those fairing halves about 3 years ago, so your options are used parts from the same year bike, or used parts from a different year bike and paint. Do a search for "repairing plastic" and you will see that these plastic parts can be repaired, but then you will be forced to repaint. Or do what I do and wear your scuffs proudly, and ride so fast that no one can see them! By the way, welcome to the VR.ORG forum. Earl

Hey Dan, Wasn't that homeless "little guy" that lived down by the creek, wasn't his name "Pike"? And havn't you "caught him" a few times before? You should really let him go Dan, I'm sure his family is getting worried by now! Earl