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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, Happy New Year To You! Welcome to the VR.ORG forum, as you have found out, there are a bunch of great VR owners here, that are willing to help. I offer an American Made, High OUTPUT Stator, and Regulator/Rectifier in the Classifieds, here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3853&title=first-genhigh-output-stator-and-high-output-regulator-2frectifier-kit-21&cat=22 Both of these items I offer come with a FULL 1 Year Warranty, are built with the highest quality components, and when the High Output Stator is combined with the High Output R/R increase charging output by 25%. I have BOTH of these units in stock for the First Gens. and also have the Second Gen. Units Available Locally. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. Again, Welcome to the forum. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, NOT to "steal" your thread back on topic, but I wanted to make a few comments about the information you have posted. I have seen this "dip" in torque in other "long rod" bikes before. I call this torque area the "Anti-Sweet Spot" I believe this area is where the engine overcomes the mass of the rotating parts of the motor. This is why everyone says you need to "rev these motors up"! To get past the Anti-Sweet Spot. In other words, if you are "lugging" your RSV around in 5th gear at 2700 RPMS, you have settled into the zone where the engine is actually loosing torque, as apposed to generating it. Your information graphically shows why you shouldn't hover in the 2700 RPM range. We got it right in suggesting that you rev the engine, but until now, we didn't know why it was true. Thanks for sharing these Dyno Charts. I would also like to mention that your bike and the high altitude riding you do would be an excellent candidate for the VMAX final drive! Without any other mods to the engine, you would effectively move your cruising zone out of the 2700 range by about 600 RPMS back into the area where your engine is generating torque. "Bang for the buck wise", this would be money well spent. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    If this dealer says you have a bad fork seal, but you can't see the leaking seal, how will you know if they have repaired/replaced it? With jack under the front of the engine, remove the fork tube caps, and measure the fork oil in both fork tubes. If the level is about the same from tube to tube, then the dealer is trying to lighten your wallet. I would want the dealer to explain how they determined the seal was bad. What was the replacement cost of the new seal? $300.00? I would ask for a written estimate of the repair cost, and then pull the fork caps. (did I mention, I hate getting ripped off!) Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Matt, Happy New Year to you! Here at the shop, I have replaced about 50 sets of plug wires on the First Gen. VR's. I've learned a lot about this project, and am willing to share what I know. Things like the amount of patience you have, the size of your hands, and how "handy" you are with a wrench factor into this project. I remove both side covers, and the false tank cover. I remove the heat shields from the top of the engine. I pull the plug caps from all four plugs, but leave them in the general location of the spark plug. (when doing this for the first time, use a piece of masking tape to mark each plug cap to the cylinder number you are removing). I then remove the battery and battery box. (Many times, the battery box bolts, (qty. 2) are buggered up because of battery acid. I drill the heads off, remove the battery box, with vice grips, I remove the bolt rems, retap the holes for a 1/4-28 thread, and install new S.S. bolts) You can now reach the two rear coils. If you have the "Paws of a bear", you may need to remove the Air Box as well to be able to angle your arm in far enough to reach the rear coils. I would try to reach the coils first, before removing the Air Box. Unscrew the coil caps on the two rear coils, and let the plug wires hang. (Again, if this is your first time, remove ONE wire at a time, and install the new plug wire) For the front two coils, reach under the fairing below the headlight, and feel around until you find the front two coils. Remove the coil caps, one at a time and install the new plug wires. Plan on this project taking the better part of an afternoon. When you feel the BIG vein in the center of your forehead start to pop out, take a break!:crackup:I am NOT in any way saying that this project is an easy one, but I for one do not like to remove major plastic fairing parts from a 20 plus year old motorcycle unless I have no other choice. There is a gent on Ebay that sells a decent quality spark plug wire set in the $50.00 range, and I offer a set as well. You need 7MM stranded copper wire, and the NGK Resistor plug caps. Automotive type wires, or 8MM wires are NOT suggested. I have a small list of items I don't skimp on, brakes being one, quality gaskets being another. Because this project is such a pain, I don't "cheap out" on materials. As bad as this project is, you wouldn't want to do it a second time a month later because you saved a few bucks on a plug wire set from a Pinto! Please feel free to PM me if you have questions. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    PRESS ONE, FOR ENGLISH! Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Jim, With Christmas behind us, the average "Joe" is pretty much "Tapped out". Ad to this the fact that pretty much the entire North East just got their first taste of winter snow, adds up to not much interest in a vehicle that doesn't have a heater/defroster! All kidding aside, when tax time rolls around, (March/April) you should see a renewed interest in all things two wheeled. Although I must admit, last year, pricing on motorcycles and ATV's was extremely "Soft". There were a LOT of low mileage, excellent quality motorcycles on the market. I don't think it is as much a question of "Is this a fair price for my motorcycle", as it is there are MANY similar bikes being sold at the same time. With unemployment and the job market, corporate down sizing and the economy in general in the crapper, You are going to have to make a tough decision about "how low do you want to go" to sell your scoot. Listing your bike in March may get better results. That's my view, anyway. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey CJ, I have several MKII VR Rear Master Cylinders I keep around for brake upgrades. I also have the Yamaha MKII Rear Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits in stock. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    It’s that time of the year when many of us First Gen. VR owners are working on our bikes, so I thought I would take a moment and point out an issue I have discovered. After rebuilding over 100 First Gen. MKII VR (1986 to 1993) Rear Brake Calipers, I have noticed a trend that I wanted to share with you. Given that the MKII VR Rear Brake Calipers are at least 19 years old, and could be as old as 26 years, in the case of the 1986 model, Plus the rear of the MKII VR has one of the largest diameter rear rotors ever placed on a production motorcycle. The surface footage that is generated at the point of contact of the brake pads is so great, that the steel backing plates of the brake pads actually wear a groove in the Caliper Body! I have attached some pics of the groove worn in the body of the MKII VR caliper below. Now, this only happens on ONE side of the caliper body, so great care must be taken when inspecting the caliper when you change Rear Brake Pads. You will find this groove on the side of the rear caliper closest to the front of the motorcycle, and this is why many MKII VR owners miss this wear groove. If you find that your rear caliper has this wear groove, then replacement of the caliper is necessary. The reason being is the brake pads get trapped in this groove, and will not back off of the rotor after the rear brake has been released, causing the rotor to overheat and warp, or lock up. If the groove is not very deep, you still get reduced brake pad wear because the brake pads are staying in constant contact with the rotor. The first pic shows a cleaned up set of MKII VR Rear Caliper halves. The arrows are pointing to the groove cut in the Caliper Body by the Brake Pad Backing Plate. The next two pics are uncleaned caliper halves. This is most likely what the groove is going to look like when you remove the brake pads to replace them. I hope this information helps you with any pesky little rear brake problems you may be having. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Bill, Happy New Year to you! This time of the year, I usually loan out my shop Bucket Shim Kit with the tool to depress the shim bucket. All I ask is that you purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me, and pay for the shipping of the kit to you, and the return shipping. The shim kit is currently being used by another VR.ORG member, but will be returned very shortly. If you can wait until the kit is returned, I would be happy to send it to you next. I keep the Valve Cover Gaskets in stock, and there are around 40 to 50 shims in the kit. My only disclaimer is, If by chance, you should brake the bucket shim tool, (it doesn't happen very often, but it has happened) that you would replace it, and if you use a shim from the kit, you put your old shim back in the kit. I extend this offer to ALL VR.ORG members. If you are interested, please feel free to contact me. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Mini, Both Jean and I are very sorry to hear of the passing of your Grandfather. I grew up not knowing my grandparents, it must have been very special to have them around in your life. As long as we hold their memory in our hearts, they are never really gone! Our thoughts and prayers are with you during this time of sadness, but I am sure that your Grandmother and Grandfather are reunited, and are smiling down on you right now. When I think of my own Mother and Father who have passed, I try every day to do something to make them proud of me, I am sure that the way that you and Jeff have opened up your home, and your hearts to the VR.ORG members this weekend has them smiling! Jean and I wished we could have been there for the fun. Earl and Jean
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, After seein' that pair of red underpants you had flyin' on a FLAG POLE at Pioneer Motorsports a while back, All I can say is...............That Toga is gonna' take a lot of CLOTH! (My eyes are STILL Bleedin' from that sight!) HAPPY NEW YEAR, TOM! Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Andy, I was born and raised in Norfolk, went to Maury High! My dad was a Marine, stationed at Norfolk. I miss that area. I had a few Honda's myself. The Hampton Roads area is a great area to ride in. If that gas line that goes to the Carb. Rack is the braided, red fuel line, if you get that deep into her, replace that line! It causes all sorts of troubles when it starts to deteriorate. (rubber chunks in the float bowls, collapses, etc) You keep askin', we'll keep helpin'. Happy New Year, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Andy, If you move to the left side of your VR and remove the passenger foot rest, this will allow you to remove the fuel pump bracket and filter bracket and you can follow the fuel line to the Petcock. I have attached a few pics so you can see the area you are working in. The first pic is with the foot rest removed, exposing the fuel pump and filter. You can see the bolt holding the fuel pump in place. By the way, if the filter is discolored, then I would replace it while you are in there. Also, If ANYONE claimed they did major rebuild work on the Carbs. and DIDN"T replace the fuel filter, I would be suspect of the quality of their workmanship! The next pic shows the pump and filter removed. The line with the filter is the one that goes to the petcock. Follow that line as far as you can reach. Use your hand to feel for moisture. If it is dry, follow the line from the pump. You will only be able to follow it to the top of the rear cylinder head. I have seen more than once, when the Carbs. are removed, the hose clamp on the line from the pump to the Carb. Rack has been left untightened. If this is the case, you will be pulling the air box and possibly the battery box to get a clear shot at that clamp. Here are a few things that you should know about the First Gen. VR. Leave the petcock switch on reserve ALL THE TIME! Use the gas gage, just like your car/truck. If you ring the petcock shaft off, you will be removing the entire rear of your VR, including the Sub-Frame to remove the gas tank. Don't ever ASSUME anything about a 20+ year old motorcycle! If you didn't do the repair yourself, or have a receipt from a reputable repair shop in your hand, (even then, check their work!) Then consider it a "fishin' story". It would be bad enough to get stuck out on the road, broke down, because you believed a "fish story" about something that was supposed to be done, but even worse than that, you could be counting on tires, or brakes, or a headlight that is supposed to be new/rebuilt, that is not! My hope is, that you purchased this VR to enjoy the power and comfort that this motorcycle provides, and to be part of the care and up keeping of this 800 pound, 100 HP vehicle that rolls on only two wheels. This ain't no LEXUS, the parts on this bike are as old as your children. (and you know how much gray hair they have caused you) You did good picking up on the gas smell, now you need to find what is causing it, and learn about your bike in the process. If the fuel lines are dry, check the vent tube coming from the top front of the gas tank, (remove the seat to examine this location) If the vent is connected properly, Then I would be draining the Carb. Float Bowls looking for debris, (Ignition switch off for this service) I would also check the drain lines to make sure they are all connected to each Carb. Lastly, take two fingers and put them behind the petcock plate, one on each side of the petcock shaft and move them as far as you can inboard, feeling for moisture. Try a few of the procedures above and report back, we can give you another list of things to check. Welcome to the forum Andy, and good luck finding your gas leak. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey KIC, After riding your 89'VR, I bet you rode the "twins" like a pair of Roller Skates! I too ate a fair amount of dirt when I was younger, I admire your courage "to get back in the saddle" after your shoulder surgery! I have shed a tear for every bike I have ever owned, and had to let go of. That 89'VR will "put a smile on your face", trust me on this! Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, What a nice job you are doing there! Thanks for taking the pics. This is another one of those jobs that the average VR owner shies away from, but shouldn't. Your new gasket is on the way, USPS Priority Mail. I am always impressed when a VR owner does a repair/upgrade on their bikes like this one. Ya' done good Mike! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    After much thought, I have placed the Go Cart in the Classifieds, as well as offering it locally for sale. The boy's mother got him the XBOX, and I went out and got him a game for it. Growing up as a kid, I can honestly say that I never thumbed my nose at ANY present I ever received. Which means I wore a few Reindeer Sweaters, or goofy hats with the furry ear muff flaps on them. I even wore a sweater my grandmother made that had 3 arms on it! (She obviously had a LOT of time, and a LOT of yarn!) I guess times have changed, and I am willing to be flexible as well. Someone is going to get a great Go Cart, at an excellent price. At 13, I would have chewed my foot off for this ride! (NOT my gas peddle foot!) Here is a link to the Classified Ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3881&title=6-5-hp-go-cart-for-sale-21&cat=13 Thanks for helping me understand "The way of the world" as it is today. Merry Christmas, Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    I have seen a Second Gen. regularly pull a folding tent trailer that weighed 420 lbs. fully loaded, but basically, that bike NEVER came out of 4th gear. Brake pads lasted less than half as long, and the clutch diaphragm spring went Bye Bye at 19,000 miles. The R1 brake upgrade and the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit along with the VMAX final drive solved these problems for the owner of this bike, but if you doubled the weight of the trailer, there is no way you would be able to stop it safely. You want to be shopping in the 300 lb. range empty, and then plan on doing some mods to the brakes and clutch unless you just want to park this rig in your garage and polish it all the time! A deal isn't a deal if it isn't PRACTICAL! If you don't believe me, go look in your wife's closet, and count the pairs of shoes! I rest my case! Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    My brother and I put this custom go cart together for my 13 year old Nephew for Christmas, he said, "Gee Thanks Uncle Earl, but I really wanted an XBOX"! Go Figure! Anyone want a screamin' BumbleBee Go Cart for Christmas? I'm so mad I'd sell it for half what it is worth! Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Bill, Here is the link for the Fork Seal Install: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=496 I keep the First Gen. Fork Seals in stock, if you need them, let me know. I can ship them with the springs! Good Luck with this project! Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey James, If you can't get this sorted out, even if you had to trailer the bike down, Kent (V7Goose) would be the man I would want to work on my Second Gen. He's good folks, and knows his way around a Second Gen. Motorcycle. Plus, you will definitely learn a thing or two about your bike when you are done! Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey James, Welcome to the VR.Org forum. There are a few issues with the Second Gens. in the areas you mentioned. Here is a link to the Ignition Bypass from the Tech. Section: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32359 Another issue has been the ignition coils. Although I have seen what I thought was a bad set of coils turn out to be a bad fuel pump. (another issue with the Second Gens.) Start with the Ignition Bypass, report the results, and I am sure one or more of the Second Gen. wizards will walk you thru checking the fuel pump and coils. Don't give up, these bikes are worth the trouble to keep them running properly. Good luck with this project. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Kic, Very nice bike! Is this the bike that was going for $1500.00? If so, I say you got a heck of a deal! Take it for a ride, and let us know what you think! Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Brandon, I don't often "rat myself out", but one of the most sickening things I have ever done to a First Gen. VR was to spill brake fluid on my left side fairing on my first VR. It was an 86', and my pride and joy. I washed off the main fairing right away with soap and water, but didn't realize it had migrated down to the "L" shaped lower fairing leg. When I came out to my bike the next morning, the lower fairing leg had softened so much, it was "sagging". I bought this 86'VR in 91, and you could still get these plastic parts. (for a whopping $200.00!) but to this day, when ever I am working on a bike and using brake fluid, I have soap and water, and lots of cover cloths handy. Brake fluid is like "Kryptonite" to me. I have a left side fairing from an 87'VR Standard, it is blue, but not the 92'VR blue. The plastic is in very good to excellent condition if you are interested. I do feel your pain on this one brother. Earl
  24. skydoc_17

    You Tube

    skydoc_17 replied to playboy's topic in Watering Hole

    The video files are downloaded into the area called "Temporary Internet Files". It has a finite amount of space. Before watching a video, go to the tool bar at the top of the page and select the "Tools" drop down menu. (windows XP) At the bottom of the drop down, you will see "Internet Options" click this. You will see Clear Browsing history, cookies, Temp Internet Files, etc. Click the delete button below this section. (First delete button in drop down. don't worry, nothing happens YET!) You will get another drop down with the different selections. Select Temporary Internet Files, (No need to select anything else) then click the delete button at the bottom of this drop down. Then select OK and View your video. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Rich, On the Second Gens., the 1996 to 2001 models had the "lower amperage" unit, and a stator upgrade would be an excellent choice. From 2002 to 2005, the High output stator upgrade I offer would give you a 10 to 15 percent increase. After 2005, Yamaha has wound as much wire on the stator core as can be wound. So, in your case, "it is what it is". This is to say that if your Stator and Regulator/Rectifier is functioning properly. Earl
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