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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Jerry, WOW! That is a very nice VR you have there! And that was an excellent price you paid for it. The Elegant Brown/Birch Brown Color is quite rare because Yamaha released the 5th Year Anniversary Edition which was Gold and Cream. I have the same year bike, with just a few simple changes. I have a good ignition switch if it would help. I also offer the Fuse Box Upgrade Kit that would clean up the area under the false tank cover as well. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3762&title=first-genfuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Plus a few other items to bring this great bike back to life. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 Great score Jerry, I hope you have many wonderful miles on that baby. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Herb, The 86' to 93' mufflers are about 3 inches longer. The tips also turn down on the MKII mufflers to keep from burning the rear plastic bumper. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, If the caliper is only dragging in one spot, then the rotor is warped. You can confirm this with a dial indicator on the face of the rotor. This intermittent contact with the caliper could cause excess heat, and can cause the caliper to drag. The rear MKI Rear Brake Caliper is a 2 piston caliper. If you go to this link, on the second row, to the right of the main pic, you will see a disassembled rear MKI Caliper: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3771&title=first-genmki-rebuilt-calipers&cat=22 Usually if a rotor is so warped that it is affecting the caliper, it should be replaced. If the rear rotor is an aftermarket non-vented EBC type rotor, (basically a solid, flat disc of S.S.) I have had fair luck straightening these rotors with a hydraulic press. (your mileage may vary) But here again, without the proper equipment, and a good "feel" for what you are doing, replacement is the easiest way to go here. Barend, with the added weight of your Hack, and the "small brakes" that came on the MKI to begin with, it's no wonder the rotor is shot, and the caliper is dragging. This is not as much about how you ride, as it is about the amount of weight you are trying to stop with the underpowered braking system on your MKI VR. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Ivan, Welcome to VR.ORG, You have found a home for all of the questions you can have about your First Gen. VR. First things first, replace that battery, and clean up all of the connections to the battery, the starter motor, and the battery ground cable. Then if the bike won't start, drop back by, and we will give you another list of things to check. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    I sell the Genuine Yamaha Fork Seals for $40.00 for the pair, and $8.00 to ship USPS Insured, Priority Mail. I have them in stock. And Yes, I discovered early on that most of the aftermarket seals cause more problems than the few bucks you save on the cost. I am extending this seal offer to ALL VR.ORG members. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    My Avatar is my "evil twin", HE is the one that rides my 87'VR really fast, goes hunting for VRODS, pulls wheelies, and in general, causes me a lot of trouble. I am the guy that does all the mods to the VR, and fixes all of the damage that is caused by my "evil twin". Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    My Shop Bucket Shim Kit has returned home. If there is a member of the forum that would like to borrow it, please feel free to PM me. Here are my conditions, I charge nothing for the use of the kit, I ask that you purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me when I send the kit, You Pay the $15.00 USPS Insured, Priority Mail Shipping both ways. In the unlikely event you break the bucket shim tool, you replace it. If anyone is interested, Let me know. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I rode 100 miles last Monday! 47 degrees and sunny. It was snowing, and 9 degrees this morning, winds at 35 MPH. I don't remove my batteries on any of my vehicles, but I do tender them all. I am on year 4 on the 89'VR, and year 3 on the 87'VR, with no problems yet. I just replaced the battery in my 1990 GMC Jimmy after 6 years back in August, I am pretty sure that 5 year battery was helped along by tendering it. Both my GMC Jimmy and My Nissan Maxima have A/C and every electric option, so they are pretty hard on the batteries. At over a hundred bucks a pop for a new battery in any vehicle I own, the minute or so it takes to plug in the battery tender is worth the effort in my opinion. I hope you are back riding soon, "Come on Global Warming!" Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, Welcome to the VR.Org Forum! I offer a Heavy Duty Clutch Kit for the MKI VR in the Classifieds, here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3765&title=first-genmki-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you would like to replace ALL of the Clutch Friction Discs, I have a Kit for that as well. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 Between the two kits, you would have a "Better than stock" Clutch, and the price includes USPS Insured, Priority Mail Shipping. This Kit comes with complete written instructions, and color pics, as well as my personal email address and cell phone number. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. I have all of these parts in stock. It would be my pleasure to help you with this project! Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Kent, I am not angry at you, my friend. You are the "Bar" that I strive to pull myself up to. Because I know a few things about motorcycles, the list of people I can glean knowledge from is somewhat shorter than some of the other members on this forum. I sincerely apologize for "nipping at your heals" in my previous post. You made a valid point. I would never want you to become weary of sharing your knowledge with all of us because of MY inability to refrain from taking a "verbal jab" at you. I have come to realize that we have two very different communication styles. I will try very hard in the future to take that into consideration when our posts cross paths. Thank you for all that you do for myself and the others on this forum. As it is in many areas of my life, (including the way I ride) I often have trouble defining the line between passion, and "over the top"! I'll continue to work on it. My hope is that you, and the other members of this forum will continue to be patient with me. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    First off, I apologize for using the term, "retarded". I grew up in a time when, if you did something "not very well", and despite your best efforts, you continued to do it "not very well", you were deemed "retarded". This lathe is in my Machine Shop building. I have 115 volt single phase and 230 volt single phase in this building. (100 amp service) This lathe was running on 115 volt single phase, the motor is a 1/2 HP, 1725 RPMS, and draws 8 Amps. I have attached some old pics of the lathe when I first got it. I would like to remove the overhead pulleys, and power the spindle drive pulley (see pic with red belt) with a DC motor and variable speed control. I have been looking at some used motors and controllers on Ebay, and one of my questions is, 90 Volts, vrs 180 Volts DC. Which is better? Can I get a more reasonably priced controller in 90V or 180V DC? I run Carbide tooling on the lathe, (that's why the old motor died) will 90V or 180V handle a heavier load better. I would like to keep the RPMS of the Spindle in the 300 to 1100 RPM range. Stepping the RPMS just doesn't do it when a few RPMS means a big long stringy chip, or a nice pile of little broken chips. With this new info, is there someone that can help me fine a Motor/Controller combo that will foot the bill. I have a much larger Le Blond Lathe that is currently down as well due to a burned up Rotary Phase Converter. So, I am without ANY lathe at this present time. I figure it would be less expensive to get the little lathe running first. BUT, if anyone has a 10HP rotary phase converter for sale, I would be interested in that as well. Please ask more questions, I will do my best to get answers. Thanks again for the help. (AND the pretend check!)
  12. skydoc_17
    I retract the statement that the "load capacity of the bike will be increased". And have deleted it from the original post in this thread. The REAL point I was trying to make was, buying a tire because you got a "deal" on it, is not the way I select the tires on my motorcycles. I personally know of Rider/Passenger Combos that EXCEED the Recommended Maximum Load Rating of both First and Second Gens. without ANYTHING in the trunk! Not to mention owners that run car tires, or have had their bikes Triked. YAMAHA doesn't even recommend that a trailer be towed by ANY of their motorcycles, for heaven's sake. Goose, you obviously have ridden hundreds of thousands of safe miles, and your knowledge of these V4 motorcycles is beyond compare. Perhaps if you would share some of that knowledge in your posts with our fellow VR.ORG members, instead of SPELL CHECKING MY POSTS, we would ALL learn a bit more about these wonderful machines we have grown to love. James plainly stated that he "got the message" about what I was trying to say in my previous post, now, lets see if YOU "get the message" about this post. My name is Earl Harrell and that's all I have to say about that.
  13. skydoc_17
    I have a 1942 belt drive, Atlas Lathe that I completely rebuilt, and is my pride and joy. The 70 year old, 1/2 HP AC motor that came with the lathe, has finally "gone to heaven", just this past weekend. I would like to put a DC motor, and variable speed controller on this lathe, and bring it into the 21st century. I DO NOT have a very good understanding of DC motors, or the controllers. Could someone PLEASE help me with the selection of a motor and controller? Or, if you have a motor and controller, and would like to trade for some upgraded parts, or S.S. Brake Lines, or good old American cash. I really could use some help with this project. I know I can purchase a new AC motor, but the thought of changing the speed on this lathe, by twisting a knob, is very high on my "Must Have" list right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey James, First off, let me say that I run a REAR tire on the front of my 89'VR. I do not on the 87'VR. These two bikes do two different things for me in the way I ride. On the 89'VR, I pull a trailer and carry heavy loads. On the 87'VR, I go very fast, and lean a lot. You wouldn't put snow tires on a Corvette, and you wouldn't put Corvette tires on your Silverado 3500..... UNLESS you were going to drive your 3500 like a Corvette!!! The point I am trying to make here is, the rear tire on your bike is a traction tire, it pushes your bike down the road. The front tire on your bike is a steering tire, it leads your bike thru turns. The rear tire has a heavier sidewall, and the tread was designed for traction under the power of the motorcycle. Here is what you can expect if you put a rear tire on the front of your RSTD. You will be mounting and running this tire backwards! This tire will last longer. You may very well hear a fair amount of road noise from this tire, (especially in turns) The front end of your bike will not be as "nimble" as it would be with a steering type tire. This tire is going to "follow" rain groves, tar snakes, and cracks in the road because it is after all, a traction tire. Because of the extra tread depth, it is going to "cup" easier, and sooner than a front tire. There are a few things that I DON"T skimp on when it comes to my motorcycle, brakes are one of them. (changing brake pads, brake lines, flushing brake fluid, etc.) The other item is TIRES. If you NEED the extra load capacity like I did, or you are buying this tire because you do a lot of "Slab Riding" and want the front tire to last much longer, then this tire is a viable option. If, on the other hand, you think your bike feels like a "pig in the mud" when trying to maneuver in a parking lot, or you can get a "great deal" on a rear tire for the front of your bike, then this is NOT the tire for you. Remember, a "deal" is not a "deal" if it makes your bike unridable! 15,000 miles will feel like 150,000 if your handle bars vibrate, if you can't turn this bike around on a city street, or your bike "wanders" all over the highway because this traction tire is searching for some pavement to "hook up" on. At over 800 pounds, and with only TWO tires on the road, TIRE TROUBLE is the last thing I want when I go for a ride. I figure I'm worth the difference in price between the "Good Tire", and the "Deal Tire"! Aren't YOU worth it as well? Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    I apologize for calling the "Twinkie" O'Rings gaskets. When I think of an O'Ring, I think of a round cylindrical item found in a groove. I would hardly call a cigar shaped, round sealer of two surfaces with multiple connecting cross sections an O'Ring, but hey, "you say potato, I say French Fries"! I stand corrected! Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Squidley is right on, the "Twinkie" shaped cover between the "V" of the two cylinder heads is leaking. You do not need to remove the motor to remove this cover, but you will increase your 4 letter word Vocabulary by the time you finish this project. A 1/4 inch pipe nipple, and a metric Allen wrench is what is needed here. Drain the coolant first. (This is one of those times when the water pump plug is the way to go!) Count on changing the oil and filter when finished. Clean the cover and body very well before installing the new gaskets. I use a bit of the Black RTV here because I hope I never have to remove this cover again! If I can help with gaskets, let me know. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Because of my shop here in South Central Pa, I order direct from Yamaha and share my jobber discount with the VR.ORG members. I can beat ANY dealer price on OEM parts, and come real close to any online parts house. I also might be able to help with tips, pics and install docs for the parts you order. I include my personal email address and cell phone number with every order placed. It would be my pleasure to help you with any project you have, on any metric bike. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, Here is the link to the DEKA AGM Battery I offer in the classifieds for the Second Gens. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3877&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery-1996-to-2007-21&cat=22 Here is the DEKA AGM Battery I offer in the Classifieds for the First Gens. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3876&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery-21&cat=22 The price includes USPS Insured, Priority Mail Service Shipping to anywhere in the USA. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Boy, it's been one thing after another! The shavings looking pieces were once the bearing cage, the needles are actually case hardened steel, they break apart, but they can't get to the splines. The Honda Moly 60 is the Bomb for this kind of bearing. I have gotten a better price at a Honda Car Dealer for the Moly 60 than at a Bike Dealer. Not all Car Dealers carry it, but can order it. Coat the splines of the hub, and the splines on the drive shaft that go into the Ujoint as Jason suggested. You caught this just in time! The rear axle shaft is no longer available from Yamaha. I like to put a coat of grease on the axle shaft as well, it helps with the rust factor. (Bearing inner race) If I can help with the bearings, or the Moly 60, let me know. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Here is a link to the Progressive Fork Springs I offer in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 As stated in the Install docs from Progressive, you should measure the height of the fluid in each fork tube, instead of filling both "casted" lower fork tubes with the same volume of fork oil, since the lower fork tubes are not a bored diameter, the height of the fork oil could be different from one tube to the other. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Paul, Usually, if your Carbtune is not reading the same on all 4 channels, it is due to dirt or moisture on the rods. A good cleaning and you are good to go. You can do this by opening up the back. If one or more rods are "way off", then there are adjusting nuts on the bottom of each rod. I would also mention that there is a warranty on the Carbtune. It requires that you send it back for adjustment, but Morgan is happy to repair the Carbtune for you. www.morgan.com Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey MJ, It sounds like you are going on the "trip of a lifetime" to me! Here are some things I would check before that length of trip, and the heat associated with Arizona. 1) It goes without saying, a front and rear tire with enough tread to travel 5000 miles (In other words, pretty close to new tires, on the side car as well!) 2) A fresh oil change (and be prepared to change oil at least once out on the road) 3) Flush and replace the Clutch Fluid as well as the Brake Fluid in ALL Three Master Cylinders. (Don't forget the rear brake master cylinder) 4) Pull the rear wheel of the motorcycle and grease the wheel splines and pins, as well as the Drive Shaft splines that go into the U Joint. (By removing the drive shaft) I use the Honda Moly 60 for this. Also replace the Final Drive Oil. 5) Check the fluid level in the overflow bottle for the radiator, and make sure the cooling fan functions properly. (If you have not done a radiator flush and coolant replacement since you purchased this motorcycle, I would. Consider replacing the expansion plugs in the cylinder area, since they are 13 years old)) 6) Since you will be riding in Arizona, I would add a pint of "Water Wetter" to the coolant. 7) Add a mount for a water bottle to the handle bars, and select a place in your luggage to keep 3 or 4 more water bottles handy. They don't need to be chilled, but that need to be consumed, regularly. Heat exhaustion will impair your ability to operate your motorcycle, which is BAD! 8) Check your tire pressure EVERY Morning before you start the next leg of your ride. 9) Load your bike as if you are going on your trip so you can adjust tire pressure and air in suspension BEFORE you actually take the trip! 10) Check/Clean/ or Replace your Air Filters, and replace your Fuel Filter. I too live in Pa. now, but lived and rode in the western US for 25 years, the weather out there is very dry. Adjust your water drinking habits for this. I am sure others will add other things to check. Try NOT to go too fast, you will make the HD guys feel bad! Have a great time, It doesn't get any better than the ride you will be taking. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, WOW! That is one of the nicest looking fuse box upgrades I have ever seen. Being "Electrically Retarded" myself, I was grateful just to get rid of the Glass FUSES in the "Antique" stock fuse box, but THIS is an entirely new level of engineering! Have you noticed any difference in the performance of your VR since the new fuse box install? Keep us posted on the results! Obviously, some MAJOR "Thinking Outside The Box" going on here! You did an excellent job, Kevin. If anyone is looking for a much more "Humble" fuse box upgrade, I offer one for the First Gens. in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3762&title=first-genfuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Andy, What a nice scoot you have there! I am sure you are very proud of her! That Muffinman knows his stuff! Perhaps we will be able to share some road this upcoming year. A trip to Don's Maint Day is surely in order with a bike this nice! Great Job! Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Ray, Thanks for the kind words about the write up of the Carb. Sync. in the First Gen. Tech Section. Every time I see an owner of a First or Second Gen. have the courage to do their own Maintenance on their bikes, it makes me happy to know that they didn't get ripped off at the dealer. Ya' DONE GOOD Ray! Here is a link to the Tech Article Ray is talking about: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 Even if you don't own a Carbtune Manometer, the steps in this Tech Article would be the same for ANY Manometer used. Thanks again Ray, Earl
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