Jump to content

skydoc_17

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,282

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

 Content Type 

Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    With out a doubt, if the Carb. Slider Diaphragms are leaking, this would be the first order of business to take care of. If you find that they are bad, Go to this web site. http://www.siriusconinc.com/ You will need the SD-1 Diaphragms. Be sure to ask for the VR.ORG discount. Now, about those "Magic" Idle Mixture Screws. Because you said that your bike is slow to warm up, and runs rough at start up, I suggest you set all 4 Idle Mixture Screws to 21/2 turns from bottom out. *CAUTION* If you bottom these screws out too hard, you will damage the Carb. Body, and it will need to be replaced! I use WD-40 on the screw threads EVERY TIME I make an adjustment. Because your bike spends very little time at Idle, it would be better to have that circuit run a bit rich for better start up. Now, about that Carb. Sync. Set the Carbs. at 1000 RPM's. When you finish the Sync. Hold the bike at 2000 RPM's, then 3000 RPM's. If the Sync. is off at the higher RPM's, then this is a sign that you have other issues. I have been known to "split the difference" between idle, and 3500RPM's because I spend a lot more time at 3500 than I do at 1000. If you get to the point where you are splitting hairs on the Carb. Sync. you are doing better than most, I assure you. Work on the "Big Problems" first, then you can "Fine Tune" at your leisure. Here is a link to a thread in the First Gen. Tech Library on a Carb. Sync. with the Carbtune Manometer. The idea is the same no matter what Manometer you use. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 This is an example of a Carb. Sync. on a First Gen. Motorcycle. It is not the only way, just one way. The pics will give you an Idea where the screws are, and what to mess with. Good Luck on getting your VR Road Worthy. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    If you do find out that the Regulator/Rectifier has gone bad, I offer a brand new kit that has an upgraded MOSFET R/R that is "Plug-N-Play", but the kit also comes with a new plug that is installed on the wiring harness side of the connection! This cures the problem of a melted R/R plug on the R/R and the harness. Feel free to contact me if you have questions! Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey John, Go to this web site. We get a VR.ORG discount for the Slider Diaphragms. http://www.siriusconinc.com/ Remember to mention you are a VentureRider.ORG Member. Along with the Carb. Sliders, you have at least one float needle sticking. Don't waste your time Syncing the Carbs. until you repair the Slider Diaphragms, and get that float needle unstuck. To answer Markus' question about the best location for a new R/R, I like to mount them under the rear trunk, above the rear tail light. You will need to extend the wires from the harness that went to the old location, but once that is done, the new R/R will enjoy being away from the exhaust collector. John, here is a doc I created to clean the float bowls with the Carbs. on the bike. This will NOT solve the Diaphragm problem, but will clear that stuck float needle. Cleaning First Gen. Carbs. On The Bike I use this cleaning method to unstick a float needle that is causing the gas tank to drain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. that is passing raw gas out of the overflow tube when the bike is running. This on bike cleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Set needing a complete rebuild, (off the bike) and does not address the issue of AIR PASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance. These two issues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. With the bike on the center stand, and the engine off, I select the first Carb. I want to clean. You will be looking for the Black Plastic Carb. Drain Tube, and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips Head Screw) You will need a small coffee can, or a coke can with the top cut off, (NO plastic containers) to catch the gas that will come out when you open the drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from the Carb. and have a look in the can for “floaters”. (solid particles) With a new can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw in the end of the drain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, and the drain tube with a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by. Press the button on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to 3. Remove the red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffee can. Move to the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, start over again, and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner on the four Carbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten all four drain tube screws, (CAUTION DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (do not start bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles and stop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down in front of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb. Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bike out of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few short bursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Go for a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) if this doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild” may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in every tank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negative effects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Because of my shop here in South Central PA. I buy OEM parts direct from Yamaha, and share my discount with the VR.ORG members. It would be my pleasure to help you with any project you have in mind for your First Gen. VR. Earl (skydoc_17) AFTER you replace the Carb. Diaphragms, you need to install afresh set of plugs, most likely a new set of plug wires, and you NEED to start running Seafoam in your gas tank regularly. Hope these things help. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, I have found that the Avon likes a bit more air than 38 PSI, especially if you are a 200+ pound person. Try 40 to 41 PSI and see if it feels any better. I personally think that the Avon Venom is one of the best "road hugging" motorcycle tires on the market. Because of this, it does take a bit of getting used to. If you run your bike loaded in the rear, try to adjust the air in the shock a bit higher in the rear to distribute the weight a bit better. If the front end is "light" compared to the rear, your bike will "wander" more than usual. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Bobby, The EBC Rotor that is on Ebay is the rotor for your bike. It is a good quality rotor, but it is made from a harder material than the stock rotor. For best results, you are going to want to use the EBC FA123HH pads with it. Also, when you go to remove the rotor bolts, you are going to want to warm them up a bit before you try to remove them so the Loc-Tite doesn't pull the threads out of the wheel hub. Then you can clean the threads up, use the Blue Loc-Tite, and reinstall them. I can help you with the rear pads if you need them. Questions? PM me. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Because some batteries are made in the USA, (SAE Measurements) and some are manufactured over seas, (Metric Measurements) the general dimensions of the battery vary from battery to battery. The stock fuse box mount actually attaches to the "rubber band" that holds the battery in the battery box. This stock mount will slide front to back on the rubber band. If you happen to have one of the batteries that are a bit taller, then try this trick. Remove the rubber "mat" that looks like a piece of "swiss cheese" in the bottom of the battery box. This will lower the battery about 1/8", and this combined with the fuse box being slid as far forward as possible should give you the clearance you need to attach the fuse box cover, and install the False Tank Cover. If you have one of the newer style AGM type batteries, it is almost an inch shorter, and clearance is not a problem at all. I hope this helps! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    This is NOT meant to be political, just an FYI! YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE THIS, but it is true!! Watch the newscast video and stay calm! http://www.wthr.com/video?clipId=7054149&autostart=true :doh:Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Lewis, Thanks for those kind words! I must admit, I am feeling a bit guilty! Jean was reading over my shoulder, sipping on her coffee when she basically drowned me! The Karma Monster has repaid me in full for not throwing a few fuses in your kit, Lewis! In the beginning, I used to offer this kit WITH fuses, but I received so many phone calls and PM's about my "poor" selection of fuses that I stopped putting them in the kit. It never dawned on me that this would cause a much different problem! Your honesty is refreshing Lewis, I sure got a good laugh out of your story. Thanks for being a good sport about that project! Oh yea, Jean said, "Dang that Lewis, now I gotta' do laundry, You're a mess Earl!" Payment in full I assure you, for my error! Soggy Earl, and Drippy Jean!
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Being somewhat of a BS'er myself, I have never been afraid to embellish on a story over the years, in fact, I come from a long line of BS'ers! In this case, I have to "tip my hat" to you, brother. That was one fine story! I especially like it when a story like that has a happy ending. Congrats on getting that Air Ride Controller going! You Da' MAN, Mike!:clap2: Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Seeing as the speedo is driven off of the front tire, a decrease in the size of the tire is going to spool the speedo even higher than it would be with a stock tire. So, unless you like to constantly be doing a math conversion to figure out your speed, you may want to stick with the stock tire size. Just something to think about. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, Here is the method I use to bend Aluminum. Place the Aluminum strap in a vise. I use the small bottled MAPP Gas Cylinders, because you can control the heat better. (It's WAY to easy to overheat the Aluminum with an Oxy-Acetylene rig) With the strap in the vise where you want the bent to happen, slowly "wave" the MAPP gas torch back and forth at the junction where the vise and the Aluminum come together. With your free hand, apply some pressure to the Aluminum Strap part sticking out of the vise. (Caution, strap may be HOT! use a piece of scrap wood for this) DO NOT force the Aluminum over to the 90 degree angle, just put steady pressure on the strap, and let the heat "move" the metal. There is a bit of a "technique" to this so you may want to try it a few times on some rem pieces, before you try the real strap. What you are looking for is enough heat to "move" the metal to the 90 degree angle, but do not overheat. The other thing you are looking for is, don't bend the metal BEFORE it gets hot enough, this is why I use the steady pressure method. The metal will "let you know" when it is hot enough by starting to bend. If you have questions Mike, feel free to PM me. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Bill, I am not sure what you paid for the two bikes, but the brake rotors alone are worth a small fortune, considering that you can no longer get these rotors from Yamaha! It is also very good that you live in such a dry climate, as far as the mechanical parts go. (like those exposed Carbs.) It is a bit tuff on the plastic parts though. It does look as though you have enough parts between the two bikes to almost make a decent MKI VR! This should turn out to be a fun project. Be sure to keep us posted on your results. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Iz, Thank you very much for those kind words! My hat's off to you for taking on two of the most sorely needed projects that can be done to a Second Gen. The Valve Adjustment, and the R1 Caliper Swap! As I have said before, I get "all warm and fuzzy" when I see the owner of one of these wonderful machines take it upon himself (or herself) to do these kinds of projects on their motorcycles. So the next time you are riding with your friends, and one of them says to you, "what have you been up to lately", you can say, "Oh, I did a valve adjustment on my 16 VALVE motorcycle, and installed color matched S.S. brake lines and R1 Calipers on my bike as well, what have you been up to?" Well, my friends, that is PRICELESS! Ya' done GOOD Iz! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Frank, I have seen this before. I have had real good luck tapping the hole 1/4-28. You don't even need to redrill the hole. A 1/4 drive ratchet with a (I think a 4mm socket) will fit the top of a 1/4-28 tap. You may need a short extension, or a deep well socket to get in there. Turn the tap about a 1/4 turn then reverse the ratchet to clear the chips. If you get heavy handed with that ratchet Frank, and break that tap, you will be in a world of trouble, so "easy does it". Lube that tap with WD-40 or even better cutting oil. Do not dry tap that hole. When you install the new SAE bolt I would use a S.S. Allen Head Cap Screw and put anti-seize on it. This can be done with a little patience. Good luck with this project. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I wanted to let you know that I have shipped a Brand New HO Stator, and a Complete Gasket Set out for the Install, first thing this morning! You should have it before the weekend. I apologize again for this defective part, but am sure that this new part will get you back on the road in no time at all. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I am sorry to hear that your stator has gone bad! This is the first one I have had any problems with. That stator is covered under the one year warranty, and I will throw in a new gasket set to help with the install. I have that stator in stock, and you can send the old one back after the install. I stand behind every Kit I sell, and it will be my pleasure to help you get your VR running again. I will get those parts right out to you, Priority Mail. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    I do loan my shop kit out. I don't charge for the loan of the kit. It has about 65 shims in it, it has a set of metric feeler gages and the Bucket Shim Tool. I ask that you purchase a set of valve cover gaskets from me, if you use a shim from the kit, you replace that shim with a shim from your bike. (doesn't matter what size) and you pay for USPS Insured, Priority Mail Shipping both ways. In the very unlikely event that you break the Bucket Shim Tool, that you do the right thing, and replace it. There is a member on the forum that sells these tools at a discount for the VR.ORG Members. I keep the valve cover gaskets in stock. If you are interested, feel free to contact me. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Stan, By returning the Carb. Sync to it's original position, (one cylinder pulling high vacuum) you are Band-Aid fixing a leaky Slider Diaphragm. I would bite the bullet, and replace those Diaphragms, and readjust the Sync again. Here is the link for the Sirius site where we get the VR.ORG discount. Be sure you mention you are a VR.ORG member: http://www.siriusconinc.com/ My guess is, (because I haven't actually laid my hands on your bike) that raw gas is leaking past the pin holes in that Diaphragm. When you increase the vacuum in that one cylinder, it is sucking the gas into the intake. You could also have a sticking float bowl needle. (did you replace them when you had the Carbs. off?) I am also assuming that you didn't do something crazy like ADD the Needle Shim Mod shim to the shim that was already on the Main Jet Needle, instead of removing the old shim and replacing it with the new shim. (no insult intended, just trying to think of all the reasons that your bike is flooding) Without the new slider Diaphragms, you really don't have a good base line for the condition of the Carbs. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    The first thing that I would check would be the nut on the front wheel, I would also make sure that the spacer and speedo drive are all in the right position. I would check EVERY pinch bolt on the Triple Tree for tightness. (don't assume they are tight because you haven't loosened them lately!) I would also give the steering head bearing another check. If you just tightened the bearing nut, (even to spec) and they are the same 25 year old bearings, and you didn't even repack them then the torque spec is useless. The last thing is you have a 40+ pound tire and rim hanging on two tubes that are 1.25 inches +/- in diameter, almost three feet away from you, and you are snatching that wheel around with a set of handle bars that are two feet wide! I wonder what's going to give here?:crackup:Seriously, check the items I mentioned, and if they are good then, "as my doctor told me, when I told him my elbow hurts when I bend my arm like this, and he said, DON'T BEND IT LIKE THAT, THEN". It's NOT like you actually steer your bike like that anyway. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, After my dad died, my wife Jean and I moved from San Diego to South Central Pa. to take care of my mom. (who is my hero, by the way) Even after my dad passed, I still didn't fully realize that we are ALL mortal, and that like life, death is a part of the cycle. Well, a few years ago, my mom passed away, and it finally hit home. I was convinced that if ever there was a person that could cheat death, it would be my mom. Every day, a sound, a smell, a song, a word, a person, a place, a thing, reminds me of my mother. Sometimes I laugh, sometimes I cry. But the way I see it, she is STILL always with me as long as I remember her, and the wonderful things she did for me. I morn her loss, but even more, I celebrate the lessons I learned from her, the gift of laughter she bestowed upon me, and her sense of humor. She now lives thru me, and I try to make her proud of these gifts every day of my life. Both Jean and I are sad for your loss, Mark, and especially because both of your parents have passed so close together, but always remember, your mom and dad are inside of you, and are a part of you, and will live on thru your children. Just as you will. I speak to my mom and dad all the time, not across the breakfast table, but from my heart. And If I listen close enough, I can still hear them answer me. Prayers sent to you and your family Mark, from Jean and Myself. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    BRAVO Gary! I know that you have been working on this for a while, it must feel good to finally bring this huge brake project to an end! I am glad to see that you hooked up with Bob Myers, he is good people. I too look forward to seeing this machine at Don's this year. We NEED to put Squeeze in a BIG USPS Flat Rate Box and ship him over here for this! Congrats on a job extremely well done! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Because the rear tire is a "traction" tire, and the front tire is a "steering" tire, mixing the tire styles has not been a major problem for me personally. I have found that the new "sport tire" tread of the Dunlop E3 and Avon Venom make for a smoother ride, and less vibration in the handle bars. I too ran the Dunlop E2's for 20 years on my First Gens, and often wished that they were still made especially for the rear. With E3's front and rear now, my 87'VR is much more nimble than with the E2's, but that don't last nearly as long. I thought that the Avon Venom was a slightly better tire as far as handling goes, but I went thru 3 tires in a row with the cracking issue, and gave up on them. If it wasn't for the fact that I am able to mount and balance my own tires, I would have given up sooner. I have 9 Avon Venom tires here at the shop with dangerous cracking issues in them. Many bike owners that had these tires on their bikes would not accept the replacement tire offered from Avon, and went to the E3. I am one of them. I personally wouldn't put another Avon on any bike that comes to the shop any more, with the current quality issues. The E3 is what I offer now. Now I will say that there are riders that have had good luck with the Avon's, and there are other riders that are running Avon's with cracks in them right now. With only two tires on the road, that's a bit to risky for me. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Especially if you have ever seen Jack's FEET! He would be 7 foot 5 inches tall if half of his leg wasn't turned under at the ankle! Someone once tried to buy a pair of his deck shoes.......for a matching pair of dingies for their house boat! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Wayne, Congrats on posting your first thread! The $12.00 you spend to join us will be the best money you have spent in a long time, I assure you. Check out this thread on Syncing the Carbs. on your "new to you" VR. It is from the Tech Section of this forum: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 The reason your idle jumped up after you fixed your Carb. Slider is because before the fix, your bike was basically running on 3 cylinders! The previous owner cranked the idle up to 1000 RPM's after the slider failed, and now you have returned it to the proper position when ALL 4 cylinders are operating properly. Here is a link to the company that makes a Manometer that is Mercury Free, and functions pretty well, plus you can connect all 4 Carbs. to it at the same time for the sync. http://www.carbtune.com/ Now, a good set of Mercury Sticks will set the Sync. a bit closer, but these Mercury Sticks DO NOT travel well, and if you use them much above idle, you run the risk of sucking the Mercury into the intake manifolds. The Morgan Carb. Tune is easy to work, travels well, and is close enough to get the job done, without all of the risks related to the Mercury Sticks. Keep asking questions, and keep us posted on how your bike is running. By the way, you may want to throw a new plug in that cylinder you just repaired. (if you are feeling frisky, replace all 4) The NGK DPR8EA-9 is the plug Yamaha uses on these V4 motors. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Vic, Nice trike by the way! You are absolutely correct, if you lower the gear ratio on the rear end of your trike, you will in fact lower the RPM that your engine cruises at. The point that the other members are trying to make is if you lower the RPM on your engine down closer to the 3000 RPM range, you have actually moved the cruising RPM of this engine out of the "sweet spot", or power band for this engine. At that point, you would have two options, you can drive around in 4th gear most of the time, (creates poor gas mileage) or you could "Lug Around" in 5th gear most of the time. (creates poor gas mileage) I have an 87'VR First Gen. and run the FJR1300 Final Drive, and at 70 MPH, I am at 4400 RPMS. If I want to pass a vehicle, I just roll on the throttle. No need to down shift. I usually get between 45 and 51 MPG 1 up, unloaded, as long as I stay out of the throttle, and don't engage the VBOOST. With the 300 lbs. of extra weight you have added to your bike to trike it, and 4th and 5th gears being virtually overdriven in the Second Gen's. tranny, that 3.27 gear ratio is looking pretty good to me. I think you would be disappointed if you put a taller gear in the rear end of your trike. But the bottom line is, it is your bike, if you have an extra $500.00 to throw at this project, by all means, have at it. Keep us posted as to what you find out. Earl
×
×
  • Create New...