skydoc_17

I thought I would take a moment and touch on a few points as far as the valve Adjustment/Check goes as well as the Oily Carb. Issue. Because this is the time of the year when most of us put the major amount of mileage on their bikes, this is when the two issues mentioned above start to loom in our minds. Because of the "Bucket Shim" type of adjustment that our V4 motor's use, as the valve adjustment goes out of spec, the Clearence between the camshaft and the bucket shim actually gets smaller. If not at least checked, and adjusted, the Clearence will get smaller and smaller until there is NO Clarence left, and this is when damage can occur. As the cylinder head becomes "seasoned" (meaning more miles put on the motor) the valve springs pull the valves deeper into the cylinder head. Closing down the gap (Clearence) between the cam lobe and the bucket shim. Exhaust Valves seem to move the most because of the extreme heat they are exposed to, BUT Intake Valves move closer as well. Another factor to consider is who was the person that set the Valve Lash at the factory when the engine was assembled. Was the motor "slapped together", or was it assembled like a Swiss Watch. I've seen both examples. The only way to know for sure is to remove the Valve Covers and with a set of feeler gages, check the Valve Clearence on each valve. REMEMBER, the valves are NOT going to get "looser" and become noisy. If you here valve noise, it's too late! You have either bent a valve stem, or chipped the side out of the shim bucket. (which sends a chard of hardened metal to be circulated thru your oil system) This is one of the FEW actual adjustments the need to be done to these motors. Here is a very short list of items that will keep your scoot on the road for a few hundred thousand miles: Adjust Valves Change Engine Oil and Filter Change Final Drive Oil Lube Drive Shaft and Splines Clean/Replace Air Filter Replace Fuel Filter Flush/Replace Engine Coolant Flush/Replace Brake and Clutch Fluid Flush/Replace Fork Oil Replace Brake Pads If you do these ten things to your bike, ( I pick 5 things for a winter project, then next year I do the other 5 things) you will pretty much NEVER have an issue with ANY of these items. Now, for the OCD members of the forum, here is my standard disclaimer: If you ride 40,000 miles in a summer, obviously the oil will need to be changed more often! I usually do the Final Drive Oil Change and Drive Shaft Lube when I change the rear tire. I try to work the Brake Pad Change in at the same time. I have upgraded the Braking System on both of my Ventures, so I am ANAL about the Brake/Clutch Fluid Change. I run the K&N Air Filter so I wash and recharge it every spring. With the Ethanol in the fuel, I replace the fuel filter every 2 years. Your mileage may differ, your pocketbook may be deeper, (or shallower) and you may be even more handy with a wrench than I am. I've seen these motors go over 100,000 miles without a valve adjustment and run just fine. I have also seen then wipe a cam lobe off at 22,000 miles! Is it possible to run these bikes HARD for thousands of miles with NO maintenance, you bet! Would I personally BRAG about the fact that I have never checked my valves, my brake fluid was like molasses, and I let the brake pads wear down to the backing plates, and scorched my rotor, I don't think so. Every item listed above can be done with a fair amount of TIME, and a few hand tools. If you don't have the "gift" of being able to twist a wrench, then by all means, connect with one of the forum members that live close to you, and invite them for a coffee, or a lunch, and LEARN HOW TO SERVICE YOUR MOTORCYCLE! This is the most valuable part of this forum. Making friends that share the same passion you have for the same motorcycle. It doesn't get much better than that in my book. Now, about the Oily Carb. issue. If you are "sloppin'" over 4 qts. of your favorite engine oil in the crankcase of your scoot, and you can't see the fill line in the window down by the water pump, then you are OVERFILLING YOUR CRANKCASE! If your bike doesn't have a center stand, then use an ATV lift, or put a shim (2X4) under the kick stand, (with the help of a "spotter") and check the oil level. This is truly one of those times when "More is NOT Better"! Half way between the upper and lower fill line is border line too full in my opinion. I personally run my oil level between the low fill line and half way up the sight glass. I run good oil and change it regularly. You can rationalize it all you want, BUT if you are Vacuuming oil from the crankcase into the Air Filter Housings, (air boxes) which ends up all over the Carbs. then your oil level is too high. Period. (For the OCD guys: unless you bike has tipped over recently!) My suggestion would be to lower the oil level, clean the air boxes out, check/replace the air filters, and GO FOR A RIDE! After all, that's why we own these wonderful machines isn't it?!?! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey Richard, Along with the shim tool, you will need an assortment of "Bucket Shims" to make the adjustments to your valves. One way to do it is to measure how tight the cam to bucket shim clearance is, calculate the thickness of the new shim on 16 valves, and go to the Yamaha Dealer and buy 16 new shims at approx. $10.00 each. OR borrow my shim kit. Let me know if I can help. Earl

Hey Ray, It's the right front Fork Seal, I'd Bet. If your brakes are good, then the only other fluid in the front fork area is those "pesky" seals. I keep them in stock if that would help. PM me if you like. Either way, count on replacing those seals. (might as well do both while you're in there) Earl

Hey Wayne, I admire your courage as far as taking on the maintenance of your motorcycle goes! I am sure you will find that you will do a much better job than most dealers, and spend a LOT less money! I have found that the very best mix for the coolant in our bikes is actually a 60% mix of anti-freeze and 40% water. This allows a 10 to 15 degree DECREASE in the operating temp of the cooling system during the hot summer months. It also offers better corrosion protection for our aluminum block engines. I also ALWAYS use distilled water when I mix my coolant. (Walmart, $.89 a gallon) Put the water in a container FIRST, then add the anti-freeze to the water. Stir completely, then add to the cooling system. By adding the anti-freeze to the water, the anti-freeze molecule encapsulates the water molecule. This gives your motor the best protection. I feel that not only is it a good idea to do things the right way, but also to understand WHY you are doing it as well. I have seen these engines go 300,000 miles with NO major problems, but it wasn't by accident. You are asking ALL the right questions, my friend. Keep up the good work. Earl

Hey Sync, Even though we have agreed to disagree, I hate to see a fellow First Gen. owner struggle with a project, so here is my 2 cents worth. Paul has hit the nail on the head with this seal issue. The guide bushings are worn, and they are allowing the fork tube to move slightly laterally. This movement is opening the seal lip, and allowing the fork oil, (and air from the CLASS System to escape) Replacement of the upper guide bushings as well as a new seal should take care of the problem. Unless this bike has taken a side ward "hit" to the front tire, rim, front fork area, (like bumping a curb on one side, a major pot hole, etc) If the guide bushings on the one fork tube are worn, the guide bushings on the other fork tube are not too far behind. I personally like to repair things ONE TIME, and get on with the riding part. I suggest that you replace the guide bushings on BOTH fork tubes, install new seals, and this should be the end of this issue. I wish you the best of luck with this repair project, Sync. Anyone that goes to the trouble to keep a First Gen. on the road is OK in my book! Earl

Passionately sharing experiences while riding your freshly repaired Venture is greatly appreciated. Spell Checking is optional. Hey Steve, What color is your bike? Perhaps one of the members can find a False Tank Cover of the right Color stateside to replace your broken one. I have the fuse box cover from a parts bike. You are welcome to it. I will PM you to get your address. Earl

After seeing the tank graphics, I think the graphic LOOKS just like "Q-Tip" and Deb, Honestly Dan, this is YOUR Scoot, Buddy! You should buy it! Earl

Hey Nemo, You didn't mention which bike you are talking about, but I assume you are asking about the 99'RSV. When was the last time you changed your Valve Cover Gaskets? The two covers on the left side of your RSV are the front cover, which has the stator in it, and the next cover back is the "middle gear cover". This second cover exposes the middle gear assembly, and the clutch slave cylinder. I don't think removing that cover is going to net you the results you are looking for, plus you will need a new gasket to reinstall the middle gear cover. Run your finger across the rear of the rear Valve Cover where it contacts the Cylinder head. If you have oil on your fingers then the Valve Cover is leaking, and needs to be replaced. You didn't mention the mileage on your bike, but anything above 25,000 miles could cause you to see oil from the Valve Cover Gaskets. Good Luck, Remember, gravity is NOT your friend with oil leaks. Earl

Hey Winston, Very nice looking rig you have there! You didn't mention if the ST1300 is a trike as well. I would venture to say that the ST weighs in a few hundred pounds lighter. Which brings me to my point. With the added weight of the trike kit, and the weight of the trailer, you are putting a tremendous load on the engine in this bike. I have found that these bikes are more than up to the task of pulling this kind of weight, but the price you pay will be in gas mileage. Things I would try BEFORE I went the EFI route would be a pair of K&N Air Filters. I would also try staying out of 5th gear on anything other than a dead flat road. I would also install a Tach. and keep this motor in the 4000 RPM range while cruising. If you are "lugging around" at 2800 RPM's in 5th gear, you're not using the "power band" of this motor properly. If I remember correctly, Even though the ST has a 5 speed tranny, this closer ratio, "SPORT touring transmission is definitely a plus when pulling the extra weight of a trailer. Keep in mind that your early model RSTD has the smaller Carb. Set on the engine. Instead of EFI, perhaps you should consider the 1999 up "Larger Carb. Set" upgrade. This upgrade is much more "doable" for the average person, and will net you another 15 to 20 HP easily. Also, VMAX cams are an option as well. Keep in mind that the fuel delivery system is just that, the system that brings the fuel to the engine. The controlling factor for horse power is the volume of the cylinder heads, and the compression ratio of the pistons. This is like carrying 10 pounds of ice to a 5 pound ice chest, it's a waste of time, energy, and money! Comparing the RSTD to the ST is "apples to oranges" at best. I think that if you press on with a few of the mods I have mentioned above, and change your riding style a bit as far as RPM goes, you will be able to "squeak" ALL that the Yamaha RSTD can offer you. After that, it's like we say here in the US, "it is what it is". Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey Gary, I have a set I could send you this afternoon, if that would help! Earl

The MKII Venture Standard, (NOT the Royale) does not have the air ride system on it, and the front and rear shocks are filled manually. Try Pinwall Cycle Parts, or Ebay for that line. Earl

Hey Mark, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum! (belated) What the buzz is about is you are trying to "lean out" the main jet so that you get better gas mileage. (with a slight DECREASE in overall performance) The main jet needle controls the mixture of air to fuel when the bike is under load. If you drop the main jet until it comes in contact with the seat, (which is what you will do if you remove the nylon shim completely) then you will shut off the fuel supply when you twist the throttle. The bike may idle, (the fuel comes from a different circuit for idle) but will not run much above idle. As to just removing the washer from the main jet needle, the sir clip will wear into the nylon shim, and the adjustment will not be the same from Carb. to Carb. There is an inexpensive kit to re-shim the main jet needle here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3770&title=first-gen1983-to-1993-vr-needle-shim-mod-kit-21&cat=22 Or you can use a stack of washers that are thinner than the stock nylon shim. Earl

Hey Don, As we have told EVERY member here at the forum, "It's NOT what you ride, it the fact THAT you ride!" If you happen to find a new scoot that "blows the wind up your skirt", then by all means, Go For it! This would be an excellent time of the year (with all this heat) to test drive one of the popular "Air Cooled" twins. If the heat from the motor doesn't chase you away, then there are some bikes to be had this time of the year. Lastly, don't forget the Can Am, there is a lot to be said about not having to "hold a bike up" all the time. Plus there is the "sporty factor" to consider. I wish you luck on your search, and what ever you do, HAVE FUN while you are shopping! Earl

I personally believe that Gunboat's shoes will be a very hard pair to fill. I think that members like Brad, (Squidley) are making an excellent effort to do just that. Over the years, I have had the pleasure to meet many of the members of VR.ORG. (including Gunboat) either in person, or online. Many have made an impression, and many have helped me to realize that it's the sharing of the road, the laugh around a campfire, the twisting of a wrench, the smile on a member's face when he or she effects a repair on their bike for the first time that keeps me coming back to this forum. As long as we ALL continue to share Gunboat's spirit and his love of the road, he will never truly leave us. People like Brad help us to remember what we are all here for. The time and effort he puts into the members of this forum is a continuation of the spirit of Gunboat. One trailer is a small price to pay for the continuation of that spirit. My wish would be to be as wise as Gunboat was, and as hard working as Squidley is. Just my thought, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey John, You are NOT the first owner of a First Gen. to discover that you were turning the wrong screw, my friend! I live in Central PA. and would be more than happy to Sync your Carbs. for you at NO charge. I am not exactly sure where you are located in NY but I have gone to the Cheffy area many times, and it was a nice day ride. If you are willing to take a ride, I am willing to set your bike up for you. We could even burn a burger while we are at it. My zip is 16635. If you find you are in riding distance, please feel free to PM me and I will give you my address and cell phone number. Either way, good luck with this project! Earl

The Wallyworld battery is actually manufactured in CHINA, and has a Yassa Stamp on it. If you live near a DEKA Distributor, then by all means get the DEKA there. You won't be disappointed. I do want to mention that after 2007, Yamaha reversed the terminals of the stock battery in the RSV and RSTD. The DEKA ETX-20L will physically fit in the battery box, but rerouting the positive and negative cables is a must. There is NOT a DEKA battery made for the post 2007 models of the RSV and RSTD Ventures. If you don't live near a DEKA dealer then try these links: Second Gen. Bikes 1996 to 2007: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3877&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery-1996-to-2007-21&cat=22 First Gen. Bikes 1983 to 1993: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3876&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery-21&cat=22 Battery Icon Bypass Lead for First Gen. Bikes: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3766&title=first-genbattery-icon-bypass-lead-kit-21&cat=22 The AGM technology is far superior to a lead/acid battery. Cold Cranking Amps are much higher. There is NO out gassing, or acid overflow, so there is NO damage to the frame from an over charged battery. Earl

Hey Alex, I personally would skip the Elite II's and go with the Dunlop E3's. I would also consider taking a road trip across the border, have your new tires mounted, then scoot back over the border with the new tires mounted on your bike! I would think the hole trip with new tires would be under $400.00. I have no idea where in Canada you are located at, but search the members list, and select a crossing close to a few members on the US side. Surely one of the US members close to his area could help him out. As far as the shim kit goes, I am sure one of the Canadian members with disclose the location of the north of the border shim kit. Earl

Hey Back, Rick! Earl

Hey Kevin, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum! Lets talk about that trunk rack first. By 1990, Yamaha was in full production of the Venture Royale. Honda was still using a 4 cylinder in their Goldwing's and the VR was the "touring bike of choice" during this era. Some engineer got the "bright" idea that if you increased the amperage of the welding process, MORE trunk racks could be manufactured in the same amount of time. This created multiple problems. The tabs on the trunk rack were made from low carbon steel, they were "cold formed" then they were welded to the trunk rack tubes using too much heat. The poor quality of the steel tabs when overheated makes them "superhard" (like glass) and the vibration of riding the motorcycle "rattles" the steel to failure. I call this process "hot boxing the welds". I also have seen this in the injection molding of the plastic parts of the post 1989 parts as well. (side covers, fairing halves, dash panels, etc) The temperature of the ABS plastic was increased to produce more parts, but left the finished products "brittle". Now, about that "squirrelly feeling" issue you mentioned while riding your bike. You didn't mention what tires you are running on your 90'VR, or their condition, but I would "Venture" to say that they are underinflated. Try running 42 to 45 PSI in the rear tire, and 38 to 42 PSI in the front tire and see if this firms up the ride of your bike. Lastly, on the left side of the bike, down by the passenger floorboard, is the "swing arm dampener". These bikes were fully adjustable for rider/passenger weight, and riding style. You just need to make some adjustments. If you ride 1up, and weigh 165 lbs soaking wet, then run the tires at 42 rear, 38 front, with the dampener on 2 or 3. If you weigh 275 lbs. and carry 4 buckets of KFC chicken in the rear trunk at all times, run the rear tire at 45, and the front tire at 42 with the dampener on 5. (you don't want all of the crunchy breading to fall of those chicken breasts, do you ?) :crackup:One final note, if you ride this bike around in 5th gear at 40 MPH, and try to roll on the throttle, then it's going to shutter and buck, try downshifting one or two gears to "wind up" the motor, and you will find the ride will be much smoother. With the air ride on these bikes, I personally prefer the bike to be level to slightly high in the rear, as I do ride rather aggressively. If you have the rear of the bike low, then it is "squatting", and this makes the front end "light" which will make it wander, and feel a bit loose at speed. As you can see, there are many variables to "play with" on your "new to you" motorcycle. Try the adjustments first BEFORE you start replacing parts, and chasing "ghosts in the machine" that may not actually be there. Congrats on your new scoot, again, welcome to the forum, and remember the most important part of riding a motorcycle is "the riding part"! These are my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

DID SOMEONE SAY "POOL PARTY" AT JIM'S! Just askin'! Earl

I've seen BIG TOM ride 400 miles........for an ICE CREAM CONE! That's what 400 miles is! Earl

Hey Wayne, If you have a Second Gen. here is the link for the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you have an MKII First Gen. here is the link for that kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3764&title=first-gen-2c-mkii-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 If you plan on towing a trailer, ride two up a lot, have a fair amount of miles on your stock clutch, or just want to install all new clutch parts then this kit will work on all of the First and Second Gens. Here's the link for that kit. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 If you have the MKI First Gen. here is the link for the "old style" compression springs upgrade kit. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3765&title=first-genmki-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Lastly, here is the link to ALL of the items I offer for the First and Second Gens. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 There are two pages so be sure to click the #2 at the bottom of the first page. Earl

Hey Don, At the rear of the Rear master Cylinder, there is the Proportioning Valve. This spring loaded control valve will get an air bubble trapped in it and will basically keep fluid from going to the rear caliper. I suggest that you remove this valve, and remove all of the inner parts, then reinstall the housing. I think you will find that your rear caliper will function properly after that. With that valve being at the highest point of the rear of the braking system, it is prone to getting an air bubble in it that is "pesky" to remove. If you are interested in changing your braking system to a more conventional system, and removing the Proportioning valve completely, check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3878&title=first-gens-sbrake-line-delink-kit-21&cat=22 The rear master cylinder as a complete unit is no longer offered from Yamaha, but the rebuild kit is still available. Considering that you got 26 years of service out of that rear master cylinder, a rebuild every quarter century doesn't sound like a bad deal to me. As with many items on a First Gen., patience, and a few good tools will make the job easier. Earl

The Subaru uses a rubber mounted "chain" instead of a belt. The Nissan Murano uses a CVT tranny and it uses the more traditional cogged belt. The Subaru chain belt is is a bit more durable but noisy. The Nissan belt is much quieter. You can easily get 150,000 to 200,000 out of either of these tyranny's with no major problems. Earl

Hey John, With 90,000 on the clock, you have done much better than most as far as your clutch is concerned! Your 86'VR was the first year of the single Clutch Diaphragm Spring instead of the 6 compression springs in the MKI bikes which were built from 1983 to 1985. As long as the 7 steel Clutch Plates are not scored, or burnt up, (you will know this because there are a series of wear dents in the plates, if you can still see the dents, then the plates are still good) then you will only need to replace the 8 Clutch Friction Discs, and of course the Clutch Diaphragm Spring. Barnett makes an excellent product, and converts your single Clutch Diaphragm Spring back to the older style, 6 compression spring type of clutch. Mike at PCW Racing offers the Heavy Duty Single Clutch Diaphragm Spring Kit and I also offer the Heavy Duty Single Clutch Diaphragm Spring in a kit for the First Gen. MKII Bikes here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3764&title=first-gen-2c-mkii-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 And I offer the remaining 7 Genuine Yamaha Clutch Friction Discs in a kit here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 Either way you go, make sure you that the Barnett kit comes with 8 Clutch Friction Discs, and for extra gripping power while towing your trailer, I would replace the 1/2 friction disc at the rear of the clutch pac with a FULL clutch friction disc. (If you get the Full Barnett kit, it will have 8 clutch friction discs, if you purchase the kits I offer in the classifieds, it will have all 8 Clutch Friction Discs as well. If you find that the steel clutch plates are burned blue, or the dents are worn off, they can be purchased separately. (These steel clutch plates are NOT offered in either the Barnett kit or the one I offer in the classifieds) Shipping to Germany would be extra for any of the kits you buy from either source. I am willing to collect ALL of the parts you need and ship them in one box, with a minimum of shipping cost. I also include complete written instructions with color pics of the clutch install. If you have any questions about the above information, please feel free to contact me. Which ever way you choose to go John, Good luck with this project! Earl