skydoc_17

Hey Kevin, With time, that return spring gets a bit "tired". I myself have stretched that spring a bit to guaranty that the clutch lever returns to the fully disengaged position. This will make the push rod "jump out" of its position when the lever is removed. Earl

That pretty much sums it up for me! I don't need to see the movie, I'm livin' it! Earl

Hey Gary, GREAT Save! I have had problems "feeling" weather those bolts are aligned or not when installing them myself. Your Helli-coil install was "genius"! I'm glad you didn't have to tear that block apart again. I bet you were doing the "snoopy dance" after that repair! Good Job! Earl

Hey Cimmer, In the kit I offer in the Classifieds for the MKI VR, (1983 to 1985) I send 6 new bolts because those bolts restrain 6 compression springs, and I have seen those bolts break when new, heavy duty springs are added to the clutch. On the MKII VR's, (1986 to 1993) VR's, the "shoulder" of the bolt will bottom out before the threads will bottom in the tapped hole. If the bolts are tightened too tight, you could see the thread closest to the shoulder of the bolt elongate. Replacement would be wise if this is the case. At 6 to 8 foot pounds, stretching those grade 8 bolts is pretty uncommon. As RandyA mentioned, the clutch diaphragm spring doesn't have enough tension to stretch them either. Sanding the steel clutch plates was a good move, and common on a clutch friction disc replacement. Congrats on rebuilding your clutch! Earl

Hey Jonas, I'm glad the Red Baron made it home safely! Hopefully, you will have some time at home to get the Baron "pimped out" for spring. Have fun, Earl and Jean

Hey Kemel, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum! I agree with Randy, from a visual standpoint, it looks bad, but from a functional standpoint, I'm sure that the #1 Carb. will have no problem moving air across that broken casting lug. Once you button the boots and air box up, YOU will be the only one to know that it is there. Most First Gen. owners have a few "skeletons" like this in their closets anyway. Welcome again, and keep asking questions! Earl

The "tip" end of a spark plug has the same thread as the center threaded hole in the drain plug you are replacing, use an old spark plug to pull the drain plugs out without gouging the cylinder head. Earl

Hey Wayne, I have several sets of front and rear crash bars in good, to very good condition. If you like, I can post some pics. I have access to really big boxes, but am concerned about the shipping cost. Maybe Bobby can help us out?!?! Earl

The only good thing about getting old is..... YOU CAN HIDE YOUR OWN EASTER EGGS! Earl:thumbsup2:

Hey Randy, Both Jean and I will be praying for you and Linda. A few years ago, Jean went down at work, that turned into a "triple bypass", the surgery saved her life. She is retired now, but gets around much better due to the repair. I hope it works out the same for Linda. You both are in our thoughts, Jean and Earl.

Hey Dave, Sorry to hear about the Slow-Mo Drop. The first week I got my 87'VR, I wrangled that puppy to the ground TWICE! I'm very glad you weren't injured! Here's a short list of things I would check: 1) Remove the False Tank Cover and check the BATTERY to see if you dumped the ACID out of the battery! (If you have an AGM battery, this will not be a problem!) 2) Disconnect the NEG. Battery terminal to see if the tip over switch will disengage. (reset) 3) Put the bike on the center stand, and work the side stand up and down. (there is a side stand switch as well, a little WD40 will help here) 4) Check the KILL Switch. (as Venturous mentioned) You may need to remove the two screws, separate the switch body halves. (this would be a good time to clean, grease, and reassemble the switch) Getting the bike on the center stand is the first thing I would do, so that the bike will be strait up and down, to reset the tip over switch. If these "quick check" items don't do it, then you will need to start tracing battery voltage from the battery to the starter solenoid, to the starter motor, etc. Hope this helps, and again, I glad you weren't hurt! Earl

JU...Ju...Ju...Just ask Da...Da...Da...DON! Earl

Hey Seeing, This topic of Valve Adjustment was recently touched on in a previous thread. Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82148 You may find this thread interesting. I also wanted to mention that this time of the year, I loan out my shop Valve Shim Adjustment Kit for the cost of the shipping (and Ins.) each way only. I keep the Valve Cover Gaskets in stock, and I ask that you purchase these gaskets from me. I can ship the Valve Shim Kit and the gaskets to anyone that contacts me. I personally would change BOTH of the gaskets, and do the Valve Shim Check/Adjustment At the same time. When you consider that a damaged valve would require that the engine be removed, and the cylinder head be removed, a set of gaskets and the Valve Shim Adjustment sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. Earl

Here are the two kits I offer in the Classifieds for the Second Gens. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 If you have any questions about the kits, please feel free to contact me. Earl

Hey Ray, It's been a while, my friend. I hope all is well with you! Because both of my bikes are First Gens., with pretty high mileage, I start out every riding season with a fresh set of plugs. If an owner comes into the shop with a bike that has a "sputtering engine", my normal approach would be to check the air filters for proper air flow, install a new set of plugs, and check the Carb. Sync. right off the bat. This "tune up" deals with about 50% of the perishable parts issues caused by clogged air filters, old plugs, and mis-adjusted Carbs. In my opinion, there are basically two types of VR/RSV owners, the ones that like to "tinker" with their bikes, (I being this kind of owner) and the type that rides their bike for the pleasure of the riding, and leaves the maintenance of their motorcycle to a professional. (one is no better than the other, they are just different) The owners that tinker, tend to stay on top of things like plugs, Carb. Syncs., Valve adjustments, and oil changes, so when they have a problem with their motorcycle, it is usually a "hard part", like a coil, a Carb., a fuel pump, or an electrical issue. With the owners that enjoy the riding part more than the "wrenchin' part", the basics many times get neglected. The difference between these two types of owners gives me a better idea of "where to start" when trying to figure out what's wrong with a bike. I personally wouldn't want to take MY bike to a Dealer Mechanic to have him tell me that I have a "rat's nest" in the air box, or my bike needed a set of plugs and a Carb. Sync. when I KNOW I can do these things myself. Some owners have the ability, and the equipment to deal with many maintenance issues themselves, others do not. The bottom line is, spark plugs are exposed to extremely high voltage, they are exposed to the extreme heat of engine combustion, and they are CHEAP! I wouldn't hesitate to "throw a set of plugs" at a bike that was running poorly to remove one item from the list of things I need to check out to find out what is wrong with a bike. My thought is, you need to remove them to "read" them anyway, why not gain the knowledge you can from the condition of the plug, (read them) then reestablish your "baseline" with a fresh set. Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. As always Ray, it's been a pleasure chatting with you! Earl

Thank You ALL for the kind words! I havn't been on the sit as much as I have been in the past due to my "Day Job" work schedule, but things have slowed a bit, and I was very happy to be able to help Wayne with his Carb. issue. Here is a copy of a write up I did a few years ago. In my opinion, it's very hard to justify a $600.00 to $800.00 total Carb. Rebuild on a First Gen. Motorcycle. It's not that they aren't worth it, it's just that the average First Gen. is only worth about $1800.00 to $2500.00. (No insult intended to anyone that has one of those "just off the show room floor" low miles bikes) This "on the bike" cleaning won't replace worn out parts, but it will clean up the inside of the float bowls, and could get your bike running well enough to allow you to get some seafoam running thru the fuel system. Cleaning First Gen. Carbs. On The Bike! I use this cleaning method to unstick a float needle that is causing the gas tank to drain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. That is passing raw gas out of the overflow tube when the bike is running. This on bike cleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Set needing a complete rebuild, (off the bike) and does not address the issue of AIR PASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance. These two issues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. With the bike on the center stand, and the engine off, I select the first Carb. I want to clean. You will be looking for the Black Plastic Carb. Drain Tube, and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips Head Screw) You will need a small coffee can, or a coke can with the top cut off, (NO plastic containers) to catch the gas that will come out when you open the drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from the Carb. and have a look in the can for “floaters”. (Solid particles) With a new can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw in the end of the drain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, and the drain tube with a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by. Press the button on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to 3. Remove the red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffee can. Move to the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, start over again, and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner on the four Carbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten all four drain tube screws, (CAUTION DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (do not start bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles and stop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down in front of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb. Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bike out of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few short bursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Go for a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) if this doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild” may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in every tank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negative effects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Because of my shop here in South Central PA. I buy OEM parts direct from Yamaha, and share my discount with the VR.ORG members. It would be my pleasure to help you with any project you have in mind for your First Gen. VR. Earl (skydoc_17)

A Few Tips For A Good, Clean Install There are basically three things that have caused a bit of trouble when doing the clutch spring upgrade weather it be the PCW upgrade or the Kit that I offer with the PCW Spring, or the EBC Springs and the replacement FULL friction disc. The first is that you NEED to drain the engine oil IF you are NOT going to do this project on the SIDESTAND. IF you have a Trike, or a Side Car, you WILL be draining the engine oil. The next is, when you have removed the friction discs and steel clutch plates, there will be a steel clutch plate in the rear of the clutch basket held in place with a retaining wire. Many people have thought they were looking at the bottom of the clutch basket, when in fact, there is still one steel clutch plate and the HALF FRICTION DISC still in the clutch basket. You cut the retaining wire and discard it, you remove the last steel clutch plate, you then remove the half friction disc and the spacing washers and DISCARD THESE 3 ITEMS. After soaking ALL the new full clutch friction discs in engine oil, you start with the new full friction disc, then a steel clutch plate, then a friction disc, etc. (you get the point) The last thing that has caused problems is the pressure plate and the clutch basket have a "Dot" on them for alignment purposes, Many people miss this and install the pressure plate clocked improperly. When the dots are aligned, the pressure plate will be in direct contact with the last friction disc installed in the stack of friction discs and steel clutch plates. The new Clutch Diaphragm Spring goes on next located in the centering ring and the bolt plate and bolts go in after that. The clutch cover is installed with the new gasket provided in the kit. Please remember to refill the engine oil. And replace the running board and brake lever. You are now ready to take a ride. Here is the link from the Second Gen. Tech. section for the install of a replacement Clutch Diaphragm Spring and full friction disc. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518 If you have any other questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me. Earl

Don buys a Harley, (I still can't believe that business!) Yammer Dan, one of the most hard core First Gen. owners I have ever met "Sneak" buys a Second Gen! (Oh Virginia, say it ain't so!) The next thing ya' know..... the whole blinking Government will shut down! Hey, wait a minute, ALL THREE of these things have come to pass! I need to click my heels together three times and repeat..."There's no place like home, There's no place like home, There's no place like home,"! I need a drink! Congrats, both of you. Earl

Hey Don, I've been to your house, my friend, and there was NO WAY we were ever going to get any Maint. Day work done in that garage of yours with TWO full touring bikes in there! This is a SAD day in deed! I hope you didn't sell that trailer with your RSV, you MAY need that puppy as you put a few miles on the HD. (Hardley Ridden) Just Sayin', Boss Earl

Hey Dave, Thank You Very Much for the kind words about the Heavy Duty Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit. You certainly didn't waste any time getting that kit installed, my friend! Just an FYI to the other forum members, GeorgeS wasn't kidding when he said you don't want to discover that your clutch is slipping while you are trying to pass an 18 wheeler on the super slab, only to find that the engine is revving, but your scoot is going NOWHERE! So, weather you choose to install the Barnett unit or the kit I offer in the Classifieds, changing to the Heavy Duty Clutch Spring set up is the way to go. It truly isn't a matter of "IF", but "WHEN", in regards to the clutch slippage issue. These V4 motors have plenty of power, and it doesn't do any good to have all of this power if it's not getting to the back tire. For the forum members that have a somewhat limited ability mechanically, this project is an EXCELLENT one to get your feel wet on. The kit comes with everything you need, the install requires very few tools, The install instructions are well documented with color pics of every step of the install, and the feeling of accomplishment you get when you finish this project is PRICELESS! This upgrade is NOT offered at your local Yamaha dealer. They will sell you another stock Clutch Diaphragm Spring over and over again, for BIG BUCKS. The replacement of the failed Clutch Diaphragm Spring is NOT covered under the 5 year Yamaha Warranty. Yamaha considers the clutch and the Diaphragm Spring a "perishable item", like brake pads. Go figure! Thanks again Dave, I am very proud of you for tackling this project! Here are the links to the ads I have in the Classifieds: Second Gen. Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 ALL New Clutch Friction Discs for ALL years of Yamaha V4's: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 First Gen. MKII VR Clutch Spring Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3764&title=first-gen-2c-mkii-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 First Gen. MKI VR Clutch Spring Kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3765&title=first-genmki-vr-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 ALL of my Ads in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?ppuser=4738&cat=500&page=1 Earl

Hey Greg, Your battery is an integral part of the electric/charging system on your MKII VR! The stator outputs electric current constantly, and the regulator/rectifier converts and sends this voltage to your battery for recharging, and to the various systems that need electric power to run the motorcycle like the ignition system, lights, etc. When your battery terminals are loose, or disconnected, there is no place for the current from the stator to go except to the R/R which converts the current into HEAT! Overheating of the R/R can cause the R/R to fail. (or the stator for that matter) Adding a "lock washer" under the head of those "cheesy" little bolts on the battery terminals is good insurance against this happening again. I can't stress enough how important it is to have a properly functioning battery in your motorcycle. If your battery will NOT hold a charge, or has a dead cell, it puts extra strain on the stator, and R/R which over time will take these units out. I personally check my battery connections monthly during the riding season. On a side note, if you haven't found, disconnected, cleaned, and lubed the connections for the stator, and R/R, then I suggest you do so. You may well see some corrosion or melting of the connection itself as a result of the loose battery cables. Because like you Greg, my VR is over 25 years old, I try to be proactive in regards to the electric systems on my motorcycle. I basically started at one end of the bike and disconnected EVERY connector, cleaned and lubed it, and moved on to the next one. This is a daunting task, but one that has kept my 87' and 89' VR's functioning properly for over 10 years without issue. I personally prefer to "tinker" with my bikes in the comfort of my garage rather than having them "break down" while I am out on the road. The proactive approach works best for me. Earl

Hey Aaron, You are correct, Installing the Block Off Plates restricts the flow of fork oil to the lower fork tubes all the time. Normally, when the Block Off Plates are installed, Upgraded Progressive Fork Springs are installed as well. The combination of the increased fork travel of the Progressive Fork Springs, and the "dampened" fluid transfer of the fork oil due to the Anti-Dives being removed gives you a firmer feel to the front end of your bike, improves handling in those "sweeper" curves, (my personal favorite) and keeps the front end from bottoming out during rapid deceleration. By adding or subtracting the amount of shim to the fork springs and changing the weight of the fork oil, you can "set your bike up" for the type of riding you do, much the same way a motocross rider would "customize" his machine for his weight and riding style. These adjustments DO require a bit of "tinkering" with the variables mentioned above, BUT once you have the front end set up properly, Your bike will be taken to a whole new level of performance as far as "carving the twisties" goes. Some riders take their bikes to the limit in regards to the amount of "lean" they can achieve, (I being one) other riders are just as happy blasting down the highway at 85MPH, strait up! In my opinion, "personalizing" your motorcycle to your size, weight, and riding habits, is one of the nicest things about owning a motorcycle. Modifying the handling characteristics of an automobile or truck is much harder, and much more expensive than a motorcycle.With a car, "It is what it is" so to speak, but with a bike, the adjustments are infinite. Here are a few links you might find helpful: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3776&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 This type of upgrade truly makes your bike "customized for you". If you are the type of rider that wants to feel like they are part of their machine, then this is an excellent upgrade! If you are the type of rider that merely "sits" on their bike, and putts around, then the money for this upgrade could be better spent on some "safety chrome". Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey Owen, The fuel line that has the 180 degree in it is a fuel line inside a fuel line. I have attached another pic. I think the PO installed a much longer line in place of #30. Earl

Hey Owen, I have attached a diagram of the fuel system of your 99'RSV. Take a moment and have a look at it and see if you can figure out what is going on there. Perhaps the previous owner put a longer fuel line on the line that goes from the filter to the pump. If your filter is new, I would suspect the fuel pump is on it's way out. Just a guess of course, not ever seeing your scoot. Hope this helps, Earl

I thought I would take a moment and touch on a few points as far as the valve Adjustment/Check goes as well as the Oily Carb. Issue. Because this is the time of the year when most of us put the major amount of mileage on their bikes, this is when the two issues mentioned above start to loom in our minds. Because of the "Bucket Shim" type of adjustment that our V4 motor's use, as the valve adjustment goes out of spec, the Clearence between the camshaft and the bucket shim actually gets smaller. If not at least checked, and adjusted, the Clearence will get smaller and smaller until there is NO Clarence left, and this is when damage can occur. As the cylinder head becomes "seasoned" (meaning more miles put on the motor) the valve springs pull the valves deeper into the cylinder head. Closing down the gap (Clearence) between the cam lobe and the bucket shim. Exhaust Valves seem to move the most because of the extreme heat they are exposed to, BUT Intake Valves move closer as well. Another factor to consider is who was the person that set the Valve Lash at the factory when the engine was assembled. Was the motor "slapped together", or was it assembled like a Swiss Watch. I've seen both examples. The only way to know for sure is to remove the Valve Covers and with a set of feeler gages, check the Valve Clearence on each valve. REMEMBER, the valves are NOT going to get "looser" and become noisy. If you here valve noise, it's too late! You have either bent a valve stem, or chipped the side out of the shim bucket. (which sends a chard of hardened metal to be circulated thru your oil system) This is one of the FEW actual adjustments the need to be done to these motors. Here is a very short list of items that will keep your scoot on the road for a few hundred thousand miles: Adjust Valves Change Engine Oil and Filter Change Final Drive Oil Lube Drive Shaft and Splines Clean/Replace Air Filter Replace Fuel Filter Flush/Replace Engine Coolant Flush/Replace Brake and Clutch Fluid Flush/Replace Fork Oil Replace Brake Pads If you do these ten things to your bike, ( I pick 5 things for a winter project, then next year I do the other 5 things) you will pretty much NEVER have an issue with ANY of these items. Now, for the OCD members of the forum, here is my standard disclaimer: If you ride 40,000 miles in a summer, obviously the oil will need to be changed more often! I usually do the Final Drive Oil Change and Drive Shaft Lube when I change the rear tire. I try to work the Brake Pad Change in at the same time. I have upgraded the Braking System on both of my Ventures, so I am ANAL about the Brake/Clutch Fluid Change. I run the K&N Air Filter so I wash and recharge it every spring. With the Ethanol in the fuel, I replace the fuel filter every 2 years. Your mileage may differ, your pocketbook may be deeper, (or shallower) and you may be even more handy with a wrench than I am. I've seen these motors go over 100,000 miles without a valve adjustment and run just fine. I have also seen then wipe a cam lobe off at 22,000 miles! Is it possible to run these bikes HARD for thousands of miles with NO maintenance, you bet! Would I personally BRAG about the fact that I have never checked my valves, my brake fluid was like molasses, and I let the brake pads wear down to the backing plates, and scorched my rotor, I don't think so. Every item listed above can be done with a fair amount of TIME, and a few hand tools. If you don't have the "gift" of being able to twist a wrench, then by all means, connect with one of the forum members that live close to you, and invite them for a coffee, or a lunch, and LEARN HOW TO SERVICE YOUR MOTORCYCLE! This is the most valuable part of this forum. Making friends that share the same passion you have for the same motorcycle. It doesn't get much better than that in my book. Now, about the Oily Carb. issue. If you are "sloppin'" over 4 qts. of your favorite engine oil in the crankcase of your scoot, and you can't see the fill line in the window down by the water pump, then you are OVERFILLING YOUR CRANKCASE! If your bike doesn't have a center stand, then use an ATV lift, or put a shim (2X4) under the kick stand, (with the help of a "spotter") and check the oil level. This is truly one of those times when "More is NOT Better"! Half way between the upper and lower fill line is border line too full in my opinion. I personally run my oil level between the low fill line and half way up the sight glass. I run good oil and change it regularly. You can rationalize it all you want, BUT if you are Vacuuming oil from the crankcase into the Air Filter Housings, (air boxes) which ends up all over the Carbs. then your oil level is too high. Period. (For the OCD guys: unless you bike has tipped over recently!) My suggestion would be to lower the oil level, clean the air boxes out, check/replace the air filters, and GO FOR A RIDE! After all, that's why we own these wonderful machines isn't it?!?! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl