skydoc_17

Hey All, My Valve Shim Kit has recently returned home, and if anyone is interested, I would be happy to get it out to you. This Valve Shim Adjustment Kit works on both First and Second Gens. Here's the deal, You purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me, (which you need anyway to do this project properly) I ship you my shim kit and the gaskets, when you are done, you send the shim kit back to me in the condition it was sent. The total cost is $70.00 and you pay the return shipping of the shim kit back to me. Feel free to PM me if you are interested. Earl

Hey DeeGee, Welcome to the forum! It's usually NOT the going fast part that gets a Venture Rider in trouble, it's the STOPPING part that usually causes the pain! I have copied a post I made a while back about going fast that pretty much sums up how I ride, and how I have ridden. Enjoy! "SACK Factor! Let's say, for the sake of argument, that the First and Second Gen's are EXACTLY the same in every way, HP wise, weight wise, etc. There are riders on this forum that have NEVER hit the Rev Limiter on their bikes. (You know who you are!) These are the same group of riders that have never found their center stands either! In the UTUBE Vid, I never did hear or see the Second Gen. owner break traction at the green light, and I would hardly call his take off a "Hole Shot". I have personally spooled two speedo's out of the dash on my 87'VR, but I have also been spanked in the twisties by a bone stock 83'VR. I have never ridden the "tail of the dragon", but I have ridden the 6 hours to Don's Maint. Day in 3 hours and 10 minutes, after working a 12 hour shift, at night! The point I am trying to make is, it is all relative. For some reason, riding well over 100 MPH has no effect on me what so ever, BUT when I lean my bike over to the point that parts of my body, or parts of my bike start to scrape, well my friends, that's where I draw the line. Now don't get me wrong, I like a good twisty road as well as the next person, but I like going really fast, in a strait line much better. Go figure. The best 1/4 mile time I have ever ran on my 87' VR was an 11.86, and 114 MPH. This was without NOS. I tried a 50 shot of NOS in 5th gear the same weekend, and the rear wheel broke traction so badly just under 100MPH that I almost lost control of the bike. I also tried a 50 shot of NOS in 4th gear, and the tranny locked up so tight from the power that I was not able to shift into 5th gear. My best top speed on my 87'VR was 146 MPH over 3 miles with a 100 shot of NOS in 5th gear, (GPS measured, speedo exploded around 137MPH) I can honestly say that I won't be doing that again. Now, my 87'VR has been slightly modified, and being a full on adrenalin junkie doesn't help either. If you have never smoked off your rear tire from a standing start, or shifted thru two gears with the front wheel off the ground, then at 50 plus years of age, (average VR.ORG member age) it would be BEST not to try it now. These days, I much prefer riding to the Ice Cream Stand, than running 50 over the speed limit. My suggestion is to find people that like to ride the same way you do, and ride often with them. BUT I will say this, for a night's room and board in the lovely state of North Carolina, I will be more than happy to come down there and let you look at the really cool LED lighting I have, ON THE BACK OF MY BIKE! Ride safely folks, you can buy many bikes, but you only have one life." I posted this to a Second Gen. member that felt that there was "No Way" a 30 year old First Gen. could outrun a "Modern" Second Gen. I think that you get the point that it is as much the rider as it is the machine, in my opinion. Earl

Hey Rosie, I have the bolts for that rear caliper. If you will pay for the shipping, I'll get them right out to you. Earl

Hey Mover, At 63K kms you have done better than most before that "wimpy" stock clutch started to slip. Thank you everyone for the kind words about the kit I offer in the Classifieds. This is a very simple kit to install compared to others I've seen. Depending on how long it has been slipping will determine weather you will just need the Heavy Duty Spring Kit, or will need to replace the friction discs. Here is the link to the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Kit I offer: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 And here is the link for the 7 new Genuine Yamaha Clutch Friction Discs: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3854&title=first-and-second-gen7-new-genuine-yamaha-clutch-friction-discs-21&cat=22 This project is done on the side stand, and you will loose very little if any oil during the install. You will need one quart of engine oil to soak the clutch friction discs in before the install. This is an excellent project to make a new friend with. Also, I will send you a link to complete written instructions with color pics of the install. I also include my personal email address and cell phone number in case you run into a snag during the install. This is the fix for your slipping clutch, and a way to meet some of the members of this excellent forum. Good luck with this project! Earl

Thanks Neil, I stand corrected! Earl

The 90' thru 93' First Gens. also had 4 brush starters on them as well. Earl

Hey Scott, The reason I use the single Nylon shim instead of S.S. washers is (believe it or not) the stack of S.S. washers weighs three times what the Nylon washer of the right thickness does. This extra weight slows the movement of the Slider and Carb. Diaphragm. After trying about 20 different thicknesses of Nylon shims, the current set I offer gives you the best blend of performance and gas mileage. YOUR wrist action will have a direct effect on the gas mileage part! Here is a link to the Needle Shim Mod I offer in the Classifieds. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3770&title=first-gen1983-to-1993-vr-needle-shim-mod-kit-21&cat=22 Here are some other things you might be interested in for the First and Second Gens. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 I hope this helps, Earl

Hey Steve, SAY IT AIN'T SO! (Just Kidding!) In 2008 Yamaha Reversed the battery terminals on the battery which limits the battery choices for the years 2008 to present. With a slight mod, the DEKA or Odyssey battery can be installed. Just thought you might like to know. Earl

Hey Cougar, You mentioned that you may be doing this for yourself in the future. DOT or not, If I were putting more than 20 grams on a tire of mine, I would debead and rotate the tire 45 degrees on the rim until I found the best location as far as balance is concerned. I am currently running 10 grams on my front tire, (Dunlop E3's) and 15 grams on the rear tire. It takes some extra time, but if you will soon have the equipment to make these adjustments yourself, it is worth it. I personally would not take a tire from a dealer that had 60 grams of weight on it! I would be taking the mechanic to "school" though! Just an FYI. Earl

Hey Aaron, Welcome to the Forum. Give this a try. Cleaning First Gen. Carbs. On The Bike I use this cleaning method to unstick a float needle that is causing the gas tank to drain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. That is passing raw gas out of the overflow tube when the bike is running. This on bike cleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Set needing a complete rebuild, (off the bike) and does not address the issue of AIR PASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance. These two issues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. With the bike on the center stand, and the engine off, I select the first Carb. I want to clean. You will be looking for the Black Plastic Carb. Drain Tube, and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips Head Screw) You will need a small coffee can, or a coke can with the top cut off, (NO plastic containers) to catch the gas that will come out when you open the drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from the Carb. and have a look in the can for “floaters”. (Solid particles) With a new can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw in the end of the drain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, and the drain tube with a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by. Press the button on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to 3. Remove the red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffee can. Move to the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, start over again, and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner on the four Carbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten all four drain tube screws, (CAUTION DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (do not start bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles and stop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down in front of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb. Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bike out of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few short bursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Go for a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) if this doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild” may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in every tank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negative effects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Because of my shop here in South Central PA. I buy OEM parts direct from Yamaha, and share my discount with the VR.ORG members. It would be my pleasure to help you with any project you have in mind for your First Gen. VR. Earl (skydoc_17)

Hey Suds, Welcome to the Forum! First off, the clutch slave will leak internally for quite a while before fluid starts to leak past the external boot and show up on the ground. The second thing is the slave usually leaks on the exhaust collector, which vaporizes the brake fluid, which means that NO fluid will make it to the ground. Because you will need to bleed the clutch system EVERY time you address any one of the items in the system, (Clutch Master Cylinder, Rubber Clutch Lines, "Hard" Clutch Line, or the Clutch Slave) I strongly suggest that you address ALL of these parts at one time, and get on with the riding of your motorcycle. Considering that the Clutch System has functioned properly for 24 years, Rebuilding, replacing, upgrading the Clutch System will be done ONCE, and never need to be addressed again for the life of the motorcycle. Not to mention you have already seen first hand how if one component is not functioning properly, the entire system doesn't function, PERIOD! The lower rubber clutch line is no longer offered from Yamaha for the First Gens. but if you click on this link, you will see that I offer a S.S. replacement for that line. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4834&title=first-genlower-s-sclutch-line&cat=22 If you just want to tackle the Clutch side of your bike, I offer the Upper Clutch Line separately as well. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4833&title=first-genupper-s-sclutch-line&cat=22 If you would like to replace ALL of the rubber Brake and Clutch Lines on your 24 year old Motorcycle then I have a Kit for that as well. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3878&title=first-gens-sbrake-line-delink-kit-now-with-s-sclutch-line-21&cat=22 Yamaha still offers a rebuild kit for the Clutch Master Cylinder, and I suggest that you replace the Clutch Slave with a new one. After personally rebuilding over 100 of the Clutch Slaves I am only averaging about a 50% success rate. With the Clutch Slave being the lowest point on that system, ANY moisture that collects in the system will migrate to the clutch slave housing. A few pits in the cylinder wall will render the slave housing useless and the price you paid for the slave rebuild kit will have been waisted. So, if you are feeling "Lucky", go the rebuild route. But if you are like me, I would want to install some quality parts, ONE TIME, and get on with the riding enjoyment part. Because of my shop here in South Central Pa. I order ALL of my OEM parts directly from Yamaha. I am happy to order you the correct parts in a timely manner. All of my kits come with written instructions, plus you get my personal email address and my cell phone number. Try calling your mechanic at your local Yamaha Dealership at home and see what kind of response you get! If you have questions about any of the kits listed above, need parts for this project, or just have questions in general about your bike, please feel free to contact me. Earl

Hey Ben, You didn't mention how many miles you have on your bike, but at around the 50,000 mile mark you can expect to see the "weaving" issue you are describing as a result of the upper bushings in the lower fork tubes being worn out. The upper metal fork tube and steering head are stable, but the lower aluminum fork tubes are swaying back and forth due to the bushings having excessive clearance. The sway develops into a harmonic to the point that the front wheel will "squirm" from side to side until you slow down, and break the harmonic. New upper bushings for the lower fork tubes, a new set of fork seals, and one of Condor's fork braces will tighten up the lower front end of your bike nicely if you plan to continue to drive at the speeds you mentioned. Earl

Hey Mike, Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner, here is the link from the First Gen. Tech Library on the Carb. Sync. for a First Gen. with a CarbTune. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723 The linkage is connected with Nylon Bushings that are NO longer offered from Yamaha. A squirt of Silicone Spray on the linkage helps to keep it from binding, and also helps when you are using the throttle. Just an FYI! Earl

Hey Tricia, That leak would be the Valve Cover Gasket and the Grommets that hold the Valve Cover in Place. Usually when these items are leaking, you would do a valve adjustment, and replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets. Then you are done for quite a while. Earl

Hey Auggie, Be careful if you decide to go with the MAC's or the Jardine pipes. The length of the exhaust tube was shorter on the 1983 to 1985 bikes as opposed to the 1986 to 1993 bikes. The listing on Ebay is a bit misleading. ONE set of pipes WILL NOT fit both the MKI and MKII VR's. Just an FYI. Earl

Hey Andy, Thank You, my friend for the kind words! I keep the DEKA Batteries for the First and Second Gens. in stock for the VR.ORG members. It was MY pleasure to help you with that project. I also offer the Battery Bypass Icon Lead in the Classifieds for the First Gens. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3766&title=first-genbattery-icon-bypass-lead-kit-21&cat=22 Here is the link for the First Gen. DEKA Battery: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3876&title=deka-etx-18l-sealed-agm-battery-21&cat=22 Here is the link for the Second Gen. DEKA Battery: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3877&title=deka-etx-20l-sealed-agm-battery-1996-to-2007-21&cat=22 And lastly, a link to a few other things for the First and Second Gens.: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 I used to think a battery was a battery until I tried one for myself, You will be surprised as well I'm sure. Thanks again Andy, and Bobby, Earl

Hey Pete, Dingy is absolutely correct. Because the bolt is metal, and the case is aluminum, the dissimilar metals expand and contract at two different rates. The oil "wicks" down the threads, and out from under the bolt head. As dingy said, remove one bolt at a time, I use Carb. Cleaner to get into the threaded case, I wrap a shop towel around the straw from the Carb. Cleaner. (don't get sloppy with the Carb. Cleaner or it will remove paint and the clear coat on the case) Coat the bolt threads with the blue gasket sealer, and retighten the bolt. It is surprising how much nicer your engine will look with this point of leakage corrected. Earl

Dingy's post #13 is correct. I label the engine block before I remove it from the frame, and this helps me to keep oriented when the block is on the engine stand. The Videos that Dingy are talking about are worth their weight in gold because if you get disoriented during the tear down, or reassembly, you can pop in the DVD and SEE IT instead of reading it. Much better visualization, in my opinion. Remember, patience will net you a running engine! Good luck with this project! Earl

Because of the Bleeder position of the right front R6 caliper being moved to the rear position, it is almost impossible to get that caliper to bleed out properly. Another option is the rear progressive caliper from an FJR 1200/1300. The bleeder is in the correct position, and this caliper is a 4 piston progressive engagement like the R6 caliper. I offer these calipers Completely rebuilt for $120.00 with shipping included in the U.S.A. or you can search around and find a used unit yourself. Because the rear caliper is linked to the front left caliper on a First Gen., if you don't get a good bleed out on the rear caliper, the front left caliper will not function properly as well, because the same master cylinder powers both. It's not impossible, just dam hard! Earl

Hey All, I took a few days off from work this week, and worked with Jean in her speech and physical therapy, and if all goes well, she will be coming home Sunday afternoon! She is very weak, but overall in good condition. She had a heart cath today, and there was some damage to two of her heart valves, (leakage) that will need to be addressed in the future. (surgery) She is in no condition to have this done now, but when she gets stronger, the doctor's will revisit this at that time. Thank you ALL very much for your support and prayers. It has meant a great deal to Jean and myself. Between work and visits to the hospital, I have been a bit busy lately. My work has been somewhat understanding, but the bottom line is that they would like me there as much as possible. It's been a challenge to "serve two masters" so to speak, but with Jean due to come home soon, I am hoping that things will calm down a bit in the near future. Thanks again for being there for me, Earl and Jean

My wife Jean and I were enjoying some dinner New Year's Eve. We had just heard from our 6 boys and finally our daughter, and were feeling pretty "warm and fuzzy" about the upcoming new year. Jean and I were chatting about our plans for our home, and the shop when she slumped in her chair. I called 911, and the paramedics arrived in record time. Jean is currently in the Altoona Pa. Hospital, in Intensive Care. Needless to say, my life is in a bit of a lurch right now. Please take a moment, and keep her in your thoughts. She is the love of my life, and without her, I am not sure what I would do. For those of you that have met Jean, you know that there is no gentler spirit in this world. I will keep my VR family posted as events change. Earl

Hey James, The 18L, 19L, 20L denotes the physical size of the battery. Your First Gen. scoot takes the 18L. The Second gen. bikes take the 20L. Because the electrical demand is larger on the First Gen. bikes, it uses a larger battery. Not to say that a 20L battery wouldn't start your bike, but there would not be much "reserve" power for times like a "hot start" with the two brush starter you currently have on your bike. Also the output of the stock stator on the First Gens. is relatively low, so you will need all of the reserve battery power you can get. Because the price of lead/acid batteries has risen dramatically lately, the AGM battery is an even better deal now. More cranking amps, longer battery life, and zero maintenance. By the way, good luck with your projects on your MKII VR! Earl

Hey Puc, The fact that this bike WON'T CRANK, pretty much sums it up. Also, the ad mentioned that it had an oil leak. IMHO this bike has either been "scuba diving", or someone ran it out of oil. The "buy it now" price is $6200.00, you can buy a perfectly good running Second Gen. for that kind of money. A crank kit and a gasket set plus the price of the bike would be near the cost of a much newer, excellent running bike. Just my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

Jean and I will be making the trip. (In our cage of course!) I have a "few" parts for Wayne, and it seemed like a great idea to drop off the parts, and shake Wayne's hand, and wish him luck with his new VR project. It would be great to have some extra company and share some food, and laughs with anyone that would like to join us. If your Christmas "wish list" includes some parts for your scoot that I can bring along, please feel free to contact me and I will "stuff your stocking" early this year. Looking forward to seeing a few of the New York Posse at this meet and greet, and eat! Earl and Jean.

Most of the damage that takes place in your engine happens when you "cold start" your motor. To combat this wear, oil manufacturers combine oils with different viscosities. (rates of flow) So, a 10W/30 oil flows like a 10 weight when you start up your engine in the morning, and flows like a 30 weight when the engine is at operating temperature. This means that a 0W/30 oil flows like water at start up, (With water being the baseline, (0) and flows like 30 weight at operating temps. Earl