skydoc_17

The last two First Gens. I purchased to "part out", (an 86'VR and an 87'VR respectively) netted me over $4000.00 each in parts. I paid $600. for the 86' and $400. for the 87'. If any of these three bikes were running, and looked decent, they would fetch between $1500. and $2500. all day long this time of the year with the 1990 VR maybe reaching $3000. if the fairing was not busted up. I would "camp out" in front of the dealership with a trailer and $3000. cash in my pocket, but not budge off of $2500. until 1 hour before closing time. I would be LOUD, and pester every customer that came thru the doors of the dealership until they saw it my way. But that's just me. Even at $3K you could end up with a free bike out of this deal. Earl

Ah Yamaha, I LOVE YOU, (I hate you!) I LOVE YOU, (I hate you!) Waiting for Yamaha to introduce their next touring motorcycle is like dating "Sybil", ya' never know which personality you're going to go out with. But I digress. The first question I would like answered is, "Aren't you good and tired of HONDA and the Goldwing spankin' your @ss all these years?!?!" I would be. The second question is, "do you REALLY think that we need another big twin, Harley, Victory, "CLONE" on the market when there are bikes like the Can Am, and the Slingshot out there?" For heaven's sake Yamaha, you build Baby Grand Piano's, PLEASE! I'm beggin' ya', build us a "Baby Grand" Motorcycle! You have the VMAX power plant, sell that BIG box of Cassette Decks you still have to KIA and wrap that VMAX motor in some high tech plastic, and a 6 speed gear box, with enough electric power to light up all of the electronic goodies that today's riders like to have on board. Put some decent seats on this baby so we can ride for hours, and show off your new product line. Put some LED lights on this bike so we don't have to dodge all of the cars out there. "If you build it, they will come", has ALWAYS worked for me! And it will work for you! And now, for my final question to Yamaha, "Isn't it about time you led the pack again in motorcycle innovation, instead of runnin' with the little dogs in the rear of the pack?!?!" I personally think it's TIME for Yamaha to put their thinking caps on, (and their "big boy pants" on) and STEP UP, and build a motorcycle that we devoted Yamaha owners can be proud of. Hell, we have kept your Ventures running for OVER 30 years, isn't it about time you showed US a little love in return? My thoughts, for what they are worth, Earl

Hey Mike, I am VERY sorry to hear about your accident. Please don't worry, the members and I can help you repair your bike, I am just glad that you were not injured any more than you were. I have sent you a PM. What a shame that this would happen at the beginning of the riding season. If there is ANYTHING I can do for you, please believe me, I will. Again, I am SO glad you are alive to share your story with us! Earl

Hey Mike, Welcome to the forum. It would really help if we knew what year your bike is. Here's some general info about what is going on with your bike currently. Yamaha when to a fair amount of trouble to "tune" these bikes to be a trouble free touring bike. By opening up the airbox, changing the air filter, and removing the back pressure from the exhaust system, you have basically turned your Venture into a "DRAGSTER"! The only way this bike is going to run, is WIDE OPEN. Now, far be it for me to knock anyone that wants to make their bike go faster, Lord knows I enjoy the "pucker factor" as well as the next man. The question you need to ask yourself Mike is, "what kind of bike do I want?" If you are looking for a quiet, dependable, touring bike that will carry two adults, plus luggage, at highway speeds, then you may need to back up here and return the airbox and exhaust to stock. If you are looking for a "tire burning" stoplight monster that gets 25 miles to the gallon, well then by all means, rejet the Carbs. But lets be honest here, at 800 pounds, you are NEVER going to be able to run with a Yamaha R1, or a CBR1000, or a VMAX for that matter. I can honestly say that above 125 MPH to 145 MPH the fairing on a First Gen. makes the front end so light that the "pucker factor" turns into the "terror factor"! Lets say for the sake of conversation, that all of your Carb. parts are functioning properly, (big IF here) a restriction in the exhaust would allow you to get closer to normal adjustments as far as Pilot Jet Screws, Carb. Sync. and Idle goes. Remember, NOTHING on your bike is going to adjust normally because of the opening up of the airbox, and the gutting of the exhausts. The way the PROS would attack this project would be to run the bike bone stock on a DYNO, open up the airbox and DYNO it again, gut the mufflers, and DYNO it again. Rejet, and DYNO it again. Since you got the bike in it's current condition, you will have to answer the question I asked earlier, "what kind of bike do YOU want". Earl

Hey Rip, On the left side of your Venture, just above and to the right of the big shaft that the swingarm pivots on, you will find the fuel pump and the filter. You will need to remove the passenger foot rest to get to it. I have attached a few pics. Be sure to check the positive and negative connections to make sure it is getting power when you turn on the ignition switch. This could also be a Ignition Switch issue or a fuse issue. I would take a voltmeter and check for power to the fuel pump before I would scrap the fuel pump out. If you do need a pump or ignition switch, I have one from a low mileage 87'VR here at the shop in PA. Earl

Hey Du-Rron, Thanks for the kind words about the Clutch Spring Kit I offer in the Classifieds. It looks like you did a first rate install on that clutch. Also that's quite a handsome Venture you have there. I am sure you will have NO issues pulling a trailer this summer. That was an excellent explanation of the Dot, Dot Dot, alignment of the Pressure Plate and Clutch basket. Some members miss that critical element during the install. Thanks for letting me help you with this project, Du-Rron. Earl

Hey Rip, The Ventureline Backrest will fit all of the Ventures from 1986 to 1993. (MKII) The Ventureline backrest for the MKI (1983 to 1985) bikes has different mounting brackets. Earl

Hey Don, I used the right side mirror perch that is not used on the handlebars because of the mirrors being mounted on the fairing. The mount is polished S.S. and I bent it using a torch. I attached a delrin ball to the end of the S.S. stem.This mount is clean looking, and works perfectly. Here are some pics of the mount:

Hey Don, Neil is correct. That link is to the First Gen. Tech Library where my description of the use of a manometer was placed. This link was from the old forum. I hope this helps. Earl

Hey JJ, Off of the top of my head, this issue might be electric in nature. A quick check would be to pull the plug wire on the cylinder that is not getting hot, (ground the plug wire to the engine) and see if it runs the same. If it does, then you have a plug wire, coil, TCI issue, NOT a Carb. issue. If the engine dies with the plug wire off, remove the Diaphragms and sliders carefully, hold them up to a good bright light, and check for pin holes. Any light coming thru the Diaphragms means air is leaking past the Diaphragm. Have you done a Carb. Sync? How about adjusting the idle mixture screws? If you need help, feel free to Pm me. Earl

Hey Jeremy, First off, 115,000 miles is excellent life on the fork seals and lower fork tube bushings! With that being said, the lower bushings are no longer offered from Yamaha, but not to worry, the real wear takes place at the top of the lower fork tubes, so replacing the upper bushings should do the trick. Now, seeing as I have NEVER seen or ridden your motorcycle, I am playing the "armchair quarterback" here. But I can honestly say that after rebuilding over 40 First Gen. Front Fork Assemblies, and owning two First Gens. myself, This would be the direction I would go in if this were MY bike! Only you know if you have a warped rotor, or a tire with a "bad spot" in it, or a caliper that needs a rebuild, but if you feel sure that the above items are NOT causing your front end wobble, then at 115,000 miles I would say that at the very least, your front end will be a lot tighter after a lower fork tube rebuild and seal replacement. Because my 87'VR has been "hopped up" a bit, my lower fork tubes started acting up at a mere 65,000 miles. I did springs, block off plates and changed the fork oil and still struggled with the front end wobble until I changed out those bushings. So I am able to say that it solved the issue for me on my personal bike. It has worked for others as well. (note the 40 rebuilds above) There are a finite number of wear parts in the front end of the Venture, it seems as if you have either replaced, inspected, or upgraded all of them except those bushings. Earl

Hey Jeremy, You have done a LOT of fine work to your bike, that's for sure! With all of the mentioned items you have addressed, there is only one thing left that would cause the issue you are describing, and that is the set of bushings that are located in the upper section of the Aluminum Fork Tube. What is happening is the Aluminum Lower Fork Tubes, and the front wheel are swaying back and forth because the bushings in the lower fork tubes have excessive play in them. You didn't mention how many miles you have on your 87'VR, but you can see this to some degree in as little as 30,000 miles. I am guessing that you have 50,000 to 60,000 plus miles on your bike, and this is why you are seeing it most of the time now. Part of the reason for this issue is that the upper fork tubes were designed for a much lighter bike. That combined with the shallow fork rake of this motorcycle tend to wear out the springs and lower fork bushings a lot sooner than a smaller, lighter motorcycle. Because you will be separating the Aluminum lower fork tubes from the steel upper fork tubes, if you have not already done so, I highly suggest that you replace the fork seals at the same time. I personally only use the Yamaha fork seals, some have had good luck with the aftermarket ones, but not many. Because this is not a "fun" repair, I wouldn't want to do it all over again after 2 years because I didn't install the best seals I could get. Unless of course, you enjoy taking the entire front end of your motorcycle apart, "just for fun"! (Some do!) If you need help with parts, or have questions about the install, please feel free to contact me. Good luck with this project Jeremy! Earl

Hey Don, I must admit, when I first heard that you had purchased a new Harley, I myself was a bit sad, and embarrassed that the founder of this fine family of friends, a fellow rider of Yamaha's for many, many years, could not find a motorcycle product in Yamaha's vehicle line up! Shame on Yamaha for letting you down, Don! And shame on Yamaha for letting ALL of the other loyal Yamaha riders down as well. Other motorcycle companies have upped their game, and sadly, Yamaha has not. You have been MORE than fair with every member on this forum, Don. No matter what kind of motorcycle they ride. Hell, we have members on this forum that don't even ride motorcycles any more, and yet they stay. Please feel free to extend the same courtesy to yourself that you would extend to ANY other member of this forum. THE RIGHT TO OWN, AND RIDE ANY MOTORCYCLE YOU LIKE! As far as I am concerned, if a Harley floats your boat Don, then by all means, ride that Harley. In the case of the disgruntled former member of this forum, he did us all a favor by NOT renewing his membership because quite frankly, he "didn't get it" anyway! If you are feeling inclined to "repent", I am sure we could find you a "loaner" RSV for the Maint. Day ! Just Sayin', Earl

Hey Bert, We here on the forum often "joke" about that owner that obsessively polishes his or her scoot, more so than they seem to ride them. I would honestly say that the above description is the "hallmark" of many Harley riders, they "rub'um", more than they "ride'um"! With this in mind, lets talk about chrome plating in general for a moment. The three metal pieces on a motorcycle that will have the shortest "shelf life" unless obsessive polishing is performed are the exhausts, (shortest) the headlight bucket, (second) and the passing lamp/ driving lamps, and light bar. In the case of the exhaust, you have 4 sections of thin wall tubing with a few thousands of plating on them that are nearly 7 feet long, which run along the lower frame of your motorcycle, right next to your boots, and your passenger's boots, exposed to every rock, pebble, and fleck of dirt that is on the road. When it is raining or icey, snowing and blowing, the forward motion of your motorcycle, and the rotation of the wheels "piledrive" these many forms of moisture and debris right into your exhaust, your headlight bucket, and the light bar. The other thing to consider here is that all three of the above items get REALLY HOT! I have a scar on my inner calf where as a young man, I discovered just how hot a motorcycle exhaust pipe gets. The point being the reason the Harley guys polish their bikes after every ride is because the wax gets burned off EVERY TIME YOU RUN YOUR MOTORCYCLE! Weather it be for a mile, or twenty miles. Your chrome plating is no longer protected by wax after every time you ride. Most owners polish to protect their investment. Now, about chrome plating itself. The reason for the peeling is if low quality tubing or sheet steel is used, (low carbon content in the steel) the exhaust tube, or stamped light bucket expands and contracts due to the heat and the chrome plating can't match the rate of expansion and peels off. The other reason would be poor prep of the metal piece before plating. I have personally found that it is more so poor quality metal than poor prep if the chrome plating is from a reliable source, like Vance and Hines for example. Lastly, you can destroy the best quality chrome plating with a dry paper towel, and about 5 minutes of rubbing, so to say that chrome plating is NOT Ceramic Coating is an understatement! I have gotten' a little long winded again, so I will try to sum this up. In my personal opinion, I ride my motorcycle to feel the wind on my face, and the power of the engine between my legs. I enjoy the road less traveled, usually 20 over the speed limit. (or better!) I run the Vance and Hines pipes, not because that are shiny, but because I like the sound, and they make my bike run better. I keep my bike clean, and well maintained, but if I wanted to spend a sunny summer day polishing on metal, I would sit inside and polish my wife's silver! I live on the East Coast, in the Northern part of the country. If I can get 5-10 good years out of a set of pipes, I consider myself lucky. I ride in the rain a lot more than I would like to, and have been known to ride in the ice and snow. (less lately thanks to the "Weather Channel"!) Expecting to find a *****in' set of aftermarket chrome pipes, used, and unseen on Ebay is like tryin' to buy a set of lips off of a chicken. VERY rare indeed. I purchased my V&H pipes new in the box, opened two boxes before I left, to get the best set, and didn't blink when I wrote the check. I personally would not spend that much money on pipes again for the bike I currently own. (I will go Ceramic Coated next time) For those of you that have the discipline to ride, and polish, I have the upmost respect for you! And I must admit that for the first month I had my brand new V&H pipes on my scoot, I was a proud poppa'! But now, because I live on a gravel road, every time I hear that gravel "ping" off of the exhaust pipes, I shake my head, and say, "What was I thinkin' "! Such is life, it seems. The most wonderful thing about owning your own motorcycle is the fact that you can make it as "shiny" or "blacked out" as you like! You are the artist, and your bike is the canvass. Bert, I wish you the best of luck in your search for the "perfect" set of exhaust! If you do find them, don't forget to take them for a good, long ride!! Earl

I offer a complete Replacement Fuse Box Kit in the "Member Vendor" Section of the Classifieds. Here is a link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=59&title=first-gen-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit&cat=17 If you have questions, please feel free to PM me. Earl

I know this is not a vid of a motorcycle, but it sure is cool! Maybe this will be the Next Gen. from Yamaha in a three wheeler, Yea, Right! [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD]The AeroMobil 3.0 Flying Car Has Arrived [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Enjoy, Earl

It seems like I was the first poster to get off topic about the fracking question with my comments about New York, and their decision not to allow fracking in their state. I meant no disrespect to the members of this forum that live in New York, work there, or have family there. I apologize for my comments, and in the future will do a better job of keeping my posts on topic. Earl Harrell (skydoc_17)

As it is with anything, there are GOOD Companies, and there are BAD ones! I left Lockheed/Martin Aerospace after 25 years to work for a Petro Manufacturing Company that makes Fracking Pumps and Liners, BUT it also makes EPA Monitoring equipment as well. As a matter of fact, it produces MORE Monitoring equipment than it does fracking equipment! I live in South Central Pennsylvania, and we are in the center of the "fracking fields" for the Northeast. When the equipment is used properly, the current technology is as safe, or safer than say a grain conveyor or Silo system. The thing I like the best is that the oil is produced here in the USA, with American labor, and it has broken the "stranglehold" the Middle East has had on us for the last 100 years! In my opinion, ANY state that doesn't appreciate the fact that this industry is providing good paying jobs for American workers is worried about the "Kickbacks" they are getting from the oil companies for foreign oil consumption. I can understand completely why New York would be upset by fracking in their state seeing as there are many politicians in the "Port District" that have lost their "Juice" because of the loss of imported oil from the middle east. As for me, my neighbors, and the state of Pa. fracking has been a stable industry in my area, with NO major problems, and the company I work for is on the cutting edge of monitoring equipment to keep it that way. Just my two cents, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey David, Randy is correct! Remove the 4 nuts from the Final Drive that connect it to the Drive Shaft Tube, and if the nut is broken, you will be able to see it plainly. If the nut is broken, and you have been hearing the rear growling, there is a pretty good chance the Pinion bearing is shot, not to mention the Pinion Gear could be damaged. The only thing you can service in the Final Drive is the oil, and it sounds like you have done that. (Short of a major overhaul of the Final Drive, ie Ring Gear, Pinion Gear, bearings, Setting Ring to Pinion lash, $$$ etc.) This is why Randy suggested picking up a used Final Drive. Much more cost effective. Earl

Hey Kevin, I too have puzzled over this for a number of years, seeing as I own two First Gens. I realize that the pics below don't solve the issue of heat in the cooler months, it does solve the issue of too much heat in the summer! Please have a look at the pics below, and if there was some interest, I would consider making another run on these parts. Thanks Dingy and Flyin'Fool for bringing the professional perspective to this project in regards to fabbing a replacement for the OEM parts. One of the things I miss the most about Yamaha is the fact that when they designed the MKII Venture, they were SO DARING! Now, they just seem to be "middle of the road". And in the case of a new Second Gen. NO ROAD AT ALL! That's how I see it anyway. Earl

For many of us, the weather has brought our riding season to an end. If you are one of the lucky ones, and can ride most or ALL of the year then take a moment and check the following items off of your "To Do" list. The rest of the members that use the winter break to tune our bikes up for next season please use the checklist below and get your bike in tip top shape for spring! FLUIDS: Brake and Clutch Fluid (Clutch Fluid = Brake Fluid) is NOT Hydraulic fluid, it is Alcohol based and resembles Antifreeze more so than Hydraulic Fluid. Alcohol is an incomplete molecular chain, and absorbs water to complete the chain. What this means is that as your brake fluid absorbs water, the oxygen in the water burns off due to the heat generated by the braking process and creates the black carbon that turns your CLEAR brake fluid darker and darker until it is useless. I flush my brake and clutch system EVERY winter. If I go on an extended ride, (Like a cross country vacation) or if I ride the "Dragon", I flush my brake and clutch system as soon as I return home. AND I still flush my brakes and clutch at the end of the riding season. If you look in the "fish eye" window, and your brake and clutch fluid is ANY other color than clear, then it's time to change that fluid. Period. If you haven't serviced your brakes and clutch in two or more years, or never, then you can expect to be buying a new Clutch Slave Cylinder or a rebuild kit for your brake Master Cylinder or a complete caliper rebuild because your caliper has seized up as a result of poor maintenance of your brake and clutch system. At roughly $6.00 a pint, once a year, to keep the system that STOPS YOUR 800 POUND MOTORCYCLE and allows you to shift gears without burning up your clutch, well that sounds like a bargain to me. BRAKE PADS: 15 minutes, and a 12MM boxed end wrench is all it takes to check both front calipers on your bike! If you have ever ran a set of brake pads down to the metal backing plates then you are the rider I want to be RIDING BEHIND! If you buy cheap brake pads and then complain because you have to change them out all the time, or your bike doesn't stop worth a crap, then here's a tip: STOP BUYING CHEAP BRAKE PADS! Personally, I think it is a marvel of mechanics that a brake pad that is the size of 4 postage stamps can bring an 800 pound motorcycle to a complete stop...EVER! Not to mention the fact that I am trusting MY LIFE and the life of the person I love most in this world (MY WIFE, not my dog!) who is trusting ME not to cheap out on vital equipment that keeps us stopping safely. I would rather replace a rotor than purchase a headstone because I couldn't stop in time. I personally run the EBC HH pads up front because they give me excellent stopping power and they last as long as any other brand. I run the EBC Kevlar pads on the rear because our bikes have a "Lock-Up" issue, and I have found that these brake pads reduce that problem tremendously. If you have found another braking product that works well for you, then by all means share this info with us, but most importantly, check and replace your brake pads BEFORE you do damage to your rotors, or your person. Is your life worth the cost of a set or two of brake pads, I know mine is. OIL: I have my own personal favorite engine oil as I am sure most of you have as well. I don't really care what engine oil you use, just change it regularly, and don't cheap out and NOT change the filter at the same time. Your engine oil is the "Life Blood" of the engine and transmission in your motorcycle. The oil lubricates the pistons and bearing inside the motor as well as bathes the gears, clutch discs and plates in the transmission. It keeps your engine and tranny at a constant temperature. Here's a tip: DON'T OVERFILL YOUR ENGINE OIL! Don't put oil in your bike like you're putting Ranch Dressing on a salad! 1/2 way up the sight glass is as full as your bike will ever need. Any more than that and your PVC system will suck the engine oil right up into your air filters. "More is better" is NOT the rule here. And finally, if you are using automotive engine oil with "friction modifiers" because your Pinto can use it as well, then count on replacing the clutch sooner than you would like to. Boy, the few bucks you saved on oil doesn't seem like such a great deal now that you're having to replace your clutch, does it!?!? TIRES: What can I say about tires. If your tread looks like the "ghost flame" paint job on your custom tank, then it might be time to replace your tires. If the wear bars are the only traction surface on your tires, then you might need to replace your tires. If you have never put a chalk mark on your rear tire, and had a friend roll the bike forward while you look at the entire tire tread, then maybe you need to make more friends. Or sponsor a "Meet and Greet" and envite other VR.ORG members to your home. In other words, check your tires, you only have TWO, and they both need to work ALL THE TIME you ride! If this post has made you angry, then use that energy to go out and look your bike over closely! If I have brought a guilty smile to your face, then catch up on some of those things that you have been meaning to do but have put on the back burner. If you don't know how to service any of the items I have mentioned above, then SPEAK UP! Ask for help here on the forum. Or feel free to PM me and I will do everything in my power to help you learn how to service your bike properly. There are many members of this forum that have a treasure trove of knowledge about these motorcycles. Contact a member in your area and have lunch with them. If you have the courage to ask for help, I assure you that there is a member of this forum that will help you. I ride my 28 year old First Gen. as hard as most here, and I would put my bike up against any bike on this forum for dependability. My thoughts for what they are worth. Earl

Hey Rich, The "Gold Star" R1 Calipers had solid Anodized Aluminum Caliper Pistons. (lighter, more piston contact surface, dissipated heat faster, less prone to corrosion) The "Blue Star" R6 Calipers have the hollow steel piston cups found in the RSV and First Gen. Calipers. Other than that one exception, the Caliper bodies are the same. Because you most likely WON"T be going 180 MPH on your RSV Rich, you won't notice the difference!

Hey Buz, MiCarl is right on the money with his comment. When water is absorbed into the clutch fluid, the oxygen is burned away due to the temps applied by the clutch and engine. The "black sludge" is actually carbon particles which are VERY abrasive. The first thing that happens is the slave seal allows clutch fluid to pass to the back side of the slave piston, so even though there is leakage, it never leaves the clutch slave housing. When the clutch slave housing fills up, THEN clutch fluid will start to leak out of the housing. (this could take months, or even years) I suggest you use a fresh pint of brake fluid every time you flush the brake and clutch system, which should be done YEARLY! Invest in a set of speed bleeders so you can do this service by yourself, and do it at the end of every riding season. If you neglect this vital service on the brakes and clutch, instead of a $4.00 pint of brake fluid you will be rebuilding/replacing brake calipers and clutch slaves. Earl

"i would rather ride my bike to the limit, than have my bike limit my riding. But that's just me."

Hey Chase, Boy, that must have been a real shock when you removed the clutch cover! There are two issues that have caused the Clutch Diaphragm Spring to look like this. In combination, there is basically NO spring tension left on the Clutch Friction Discs, so the Clutch Diaphragm Spring gets slung out of the retaining ring. Issue #1 is the Clutch Diaphragm Spring has lost it's "Spring Memory" because of heat and age. The spring height is not as tall as it used to be when it was new. Issue #2 is the Clutch Friction Discs are worn to the point that they are too thin, and the "Stacked Height" of the Clutch Friction Discs and Steel Clutch Plates is not tall enough to be compressed by the Clutch Diaphragm Spring. A new Spring AND Clutch Friction Discs will solve both issues nicely. Earl