skydoc_17

Hey Tim, Very Glad to hear that you lived to tell the tale! I live in central Pa. myself, and my wife calls the deer "field rats" because we too see them on the side of the road all the time. I can't even begin to offer any advise about when to ride, and when NOT to ride, but I can say that Kevlar brake pads on that rear caliper will practically eliminate that rear lock up issue. Something to think about during the off season, pretty easy install, well worth the time, and peace of mind. If you have questions about the pads PM me. Again, Dam Glad you're OK. Earl

Hey Sys, The "Gold Dot" Aluminum Pistons are in fact swappable with the steel pistons of the "Blue Dot" R6 Calipers of the 1999 to 2001 vintage. As far as running larger diameter rotors on a MKII First Gen. or a Second Gen. the caliper location would prohibit that, BUT if you were going to make an adaptor mount for a set of 6 piston "Radial" Calipers, then you can run any diameter rotor that would bolt up to the wheel hub because you will be creating the caliper placement location with the adaptor mount. A word of warning here, "how much braking is too much" would be the threshold you would be teetering on with 6 piston calipers and R1 or VMAX rotors. I am not saying it can't be controlled, but if you have ever had a front wheel lock up then you will understand what I am talking about here. Sport bike de-acceleration from high speeds is a useful tool, throwing yourself over the handlebars at 30 MPH in a "panic stop" is something else entirely. Earl

Hey Oliver, One of the members here on the forum, Donvito brought to my attention that the pic may confuse you about the Drain Plug. When using the water pump plug to drain the coolant system, you would turn the drain plug to the position that is shown in the pic I attached. When you go to fill up the coolant system, you would turn the drain plug back to the "OFF" position. I apologize for the confusion. This drain plug is located right above the oil filter canister, which is in between the two front exhaust pipes, right behind the front tire. Thanks to Donvito for helping me to clear this up. Earl

Hey Oliver, Welcome to the Forum! Congrats on your "new to you" 83'VR you have acquired. Since you just purchased this motorcycle, here are the items I would address to try to "cool this bike off" a bit. I would do a complete coolant flush by removing the plug at the bottom of the water pump. With the radiator cap off, use low hose pressure and flush the coolant system until the water from the water pump plug hole is clean. Reinstall the plug with teflon tape and fill with a 60% anti-freeze, 40% water mix. (in a separate container, add the anti-freeze to the water so the anti-freeze molecule encapsulates the water molecule) add this mixture to the radiator. Don't forget to drain and refill the overflow bottle under the right side of the fairing. Next, check to see that the bypass plug down by the oil filter is turned in the right direction. (See pic) This will also cause an issue with the cooling of the motorcycle. Next, the impeller on the 83'VR was plastic, all of the other model years were metal. I would suggest that you order the metal impeller and install it in the water pump. The last thing I want to mention is the fact that the TCI (computer brain) of the Yamaha Venture was only used on the 1983 models. ALL of the other Ventures have a TCI unit, but they are different electronically than the 1983 TCI. If someone installed a unit from a 1984 thru 1989 bike, the bike would start and run, but it would run dangerously hot. It will take a bit of investigation to discover if the TCI is an 83' unit or something else, but if you flush the radiator and the bike still runs hot, at some point, I would be verifying that the TCI unit belonged on your newly acquired Venture. Good luck with these projects, and again, welcome to the forum. Earl

Thanks Jamie for mentioning my kit! Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=59&title=first-gen-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit&cat=17 Earl

Hey Max, Sorry to hear about your problem. I was wondering if you replaced the Dust Seal on the side you are having problems with as well as the "Metal Slide 1" which keeps the upper fork tube from deforming the fork seal. The reason I am asking is that the only way moisture can get to the upper washer is if the clearance between the upper fork tube and the dust seal are too great. If you are willing to send me a drawing of the washers you need with OD, ID, and thickness, I can manufacture a set of washers out of Stainless Steel that should solve your problem for good. Earl

Hey Ed, Welcome to the forum! I copied this post from the First Gen. Tech Section. You can view the entire Tech section by using this link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?13-First-Gen-Tech-Library-READ-ONLY! Things I would Check! Hey KIC, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit) Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot! If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking. With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic. While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected. Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything. Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend. Earl This post was written about a different bike, but the checks would be the same for the bike you are looking at. Deduct for the items you find fault with, and as good as the price he is asking for would be even sweeter if you end up paying $800 to $900 for this same bike. YOU WILL be putting some money into this motorcycle to make it rideable. If you have questions after the purchase, join the forum, and all of the members here will be happy to help you get your "new to you" scoot up and running properly. Earl

Hey Thomas, The pistons on one side of your caliper are sticking. Considering that your caliper seals could be 30 years old, I'd say they did a REAL good job up to this point. These two piston calipers are a pretty easy rebuild. I use the Yamaha Seal Kits, the quality of the parts are much better than aftermarket. Your braking action will be much better after the rebuild as well. Earl

Hey Kevin, You are absolutely correct! I had MKII on the brain! Thanks for straightening me out. Earl

Here ya' Go Mark: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=427

There are two things I would like to bring to your attention about the issue you just described. The first is with the "linked" braking system, when applying the front brake, you are only activating the right front rotor, in a panic stop situation the second item I wanted to mention crops up. If the upper set of fork tube bushings in the LOWER fork tubes are worn out, (these bushings are located in the TOP of the Aluminum lower fork tubes) the front wheel will move side to side because the right front caliper and the left front caliper have different piston sizes. Even with PERFECT brake lever/foot pedal application, the difference in braking action between the two calipers amplifies the worn out upper bushing effect. A tale-tale sign of the bushings being worn would be a thin, black oily ring on the shiny metal upper fork tube about 5" above the fork seals. When the upper fork tubes shift during the panic stop due to the worn bushings, the upper fork tube forces the lip of the fork seal to one side, which allows a very small amount of fork oil out of the lower fork tube which ends up on the upper fork tube as a small ring. These worn bushings are very hard to detect until they get really "sloppy". You may have just received your first "warning". Earl

With the bike warmed up, Adjust the IDLE SCREW on the left side of the engine, (as you are sitting on the bike) the adjustment screw is the ONLY screw that has a head on it that you can turn with your hand. (Thumb Screw) If you need to use a screwdriver, you are turning the WRONG screw. Get the bike to idle at 1000RPM's (warmed up) The tank can be coated, but I would drain the tank, put in a fresh set of plugs and add NEW gas. You are seeing moisture that has collect in the Ethanol fuel in the tank. I would also drain the Carb. bowles. Here is a write up I did a few years ago about cleaning the Carbs. on the bike: Cleaning First Gen. Carbs. On The Bike I use this cleaning method to unstick a float needle that is causing the gas tank to drain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. That is passing raw gas out of the overflow tube when the bike is running. This on bike cleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Set needing a complete rebuild, (off the bike) and does not address the issue of AIR PASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance. These two issues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. With the bike on the center stand, and the engine off, I select the first Carb. I want to clean. You will be looking for the Black Plastic Carb. Drain Tube, and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips Head Screw) You will need a small coffee can, or a coke can with the top cut off, (NO plastic containers) to catch the gas that will come out when you open the drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from the Carb. and have a look in the can for “floaters”. (Solid particles) With a new can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw in the end of the drain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, and the drain tube with a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by. Press the button on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to 3. Remove the red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffee can. Move to the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, start over again, and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner on the four Carbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten all four drain tube screws, (CAUTION DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (do not start bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles and stop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down in front of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb. Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bike out of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few short bursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Go for a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) if this doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild” may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in every tank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negative effects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Because of my shop here in South Central PA. I buy OEM parts direct from Yamaha, and share my discount with the VR.ORG members. It would be my pleasure to help you with any project you have in mind for your First Gen. VR. Another Suggestion is to look at the Front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoirs on the handlebars. You will see a plastic plug located on each side. If you remove the plastic plugs, you can install a set on "conventional" motorcycle mirrors in these two locations. (like a set of VMAX mirrors, or aftermarket) Keep in mind that the left side, (clutch side) mirror threaded hole is threaded left handed, so you will need a set of mirrors with one side right hand thread, and one side left hand thread. The last suggestion would be to extend the sides of the "false tank cover" either with sheet metal, or if you still have the original side covers, you can cut them down to your liking. Good luck with your projects Rusery, if you have questions, or need parts, feel free to contact me. Earl

Hey Yamagrl, That guitar pick idea is VERY clever! The special "thumbnail tool" That Flyinfool is talking about is posted in the First Gen. Tech Section for the install of the Sirius Carb. Diaphragms. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32121-Ebay-Carb-Diaphragm-Replacement! Not everyone has the thumbnail tool, but the pick would be an excellent replacement for that tool. A wittled down popcycle stick also works very well. Don't use anything metal, it will cut the inner lip of the new Diaphragm you are trying to install. Earl

Hey Mike, This link should point you in the right direction as far as installing the new Carb. Diaphragms goes: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32121-Ebay-Carb-Diaphragm-Replacement! Earl

This will also do the trick: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=58&title=first-gen-1983-1993-battery-icon-bypass-lead&cat=17 Earl

Hey Dan, I can't tell you how sad I was to hear that you went down on the way to Don's last weekend! It just wasn't the same without you. I just wanted to say that there is NO need to worry about the memory loss my dear friend. WE here at the forum will be your memory for you! WE will remember every time you made us laugh, WE will remember every rant you have ever had, and WE will remember ALL of the good times you shared with US over the years. This is what good friends do for each other, and this is what the members of this forum will be happy to do for you, my friend, WE WILL REMEMBER FOR YOU! Get well soon Dan, you are missed much more than you realize. Earl and Jean.

In light of the event that happened to Yammer Dan, my dear friend on his way to Don's Maintenance Day this last week, I wanted to point out a few things about the Second Gen. Motorcycle that EVERY Second Gen. owner should take into consideration. For many of us, we started riding at a pretty early age, on more "primitive", traditional style motorcycles. Because of children, family or work, we stopped riding for a number of years, and then resumed riding in our later lives. The bikes we rode in the 60's, 70's and 80's may have had only a single front disc brake, and most likely had a drum rear brake. The chances of "locking up" the brakes on a Honda 750 were pretty much nil on dry pavement unless you stood on the rear brake foot pedal. Now, fast forward to the year 1999, and we now are riding an 800 pound, 4 cylinder touring motorcycle with a 4 piston rear disc brake caliper, and a rotor that is roughly 15" in diameter! This is more braking power than your car has per wheel! Plus add the combination of forward controls, and a rear brake pedal that is over a foot long, and what you have is a disaster waiting to happen. Now, under "normal" conditions, coming to a stop is a no brainer. You ease down on the rear brake, apply the front brake lever, and the bike slows down until it stops. No problem. Let us now consider what happens in a "panic stop" situation. You jam on the rear brake, you grab a handful of front brake, your weight and the weight of the motorcycle move forward and the next thing you know, the rear brake has locked up, the rear tire is sliding out, the front brakes finally lock up, and you are high sided off of your bike and thru the air, or you skid out, and your bike, (and you) go sliding down the highway. Not a pretty sight to see, I assure you. After wrenching on motorcycles for over 45 years, and installing numerous performance upgrades on motorcycles here is what I have found that helps cure the rear brake lock up on the Second Gen. motorcycles. Installing the KEVLAR (Aramid Fiber) rear brake pads on the Second Gen. bikes makes it almost impossible to lock up the rear brakes. Installing the 4 piston, PROGRESSIVE ENGAGEMENT, R1/R6 calipers on the front of the Second Gen. bikes allows you to depend on the front brakes much more than the 2 piston, slider type front brake calipers that come stock on these bikes. And finally, a good set of Stainless Steel Brake Lines. These lines sets allow for even brake force to be applied to the calipers without any "pulsing", and all of the brake force ends up at the caliper, NOT ballooning the stock rubber lines. Now, some people may be thinking that this is a shameless plug for products that I may have offered in the Classifieds in the past for the Second Gen. Motorcycles, BUT FRANKLY, at this point, I don't want to see another VR.ORG member go down because of this ongoing issue with the rear brakes on the Second Gens. so I'm saying I don't CARE where you purchase the KEVLAR brake pads, the R1/R6 calipers or the S.S. brake line sets from, as long as you are PROACTIVELY trying to make your bike safer to ride this summer. Because the average age of the riders on this forum is in the 50+ range, and speaking personally, if I were to go down HARD, and even if I came thru the accident with minor injuries, an accident like that could put an end to my riding career. I am asking everyone to take a good close look at your braking equipment on your motorcycle. Have you flushed your brake fluid in the last year? Do your front sliders on your calipers function properly? Are your brake pads down to the backing plates? Tire inflation correct? Plenty of tread left on those tires? PLEASE don't be the next victim of poor maintenance of your motorcycle, and don't be afraid to upgrade your bike's braking system, after all, your brakes are the only thing that will stop you once you get going! My thoughts, for what they are worth. (Damn Glad you're OK Yammer!) Earl

Both the "Bypass Plates", and the "Block Off Plates", do the exact same thing. The Anti-Dive Valve is in the unit you have removed from your bike, and you need something to plug up the holes left by the removal of the Anti-Dive unit. The set of block off plates you have happen to be flat on the exterior surface (but made of Stainless Steel) The bypass plates in the link above are half round on the exterior surface, (and made from aluminum) Both plates do the same thing, the only difference is cosmetic, and quality of material. Earl

Normally, I would agree with RagTop 100%, BUT if you did jack the bike up in the wrong spot, you could have ripped or cut the rubber line that goes from the "hard line" mounted on the frame, over to the clutch slave. Once you remove the Inspection Cover rearward of the Stator Cover, (left side of the bike) you will get a pretty clear view of the rubber line I am talking about. Have someone squeeze the Clutch lever, and look for the leak. If you are interested, I can make up a S.S. line for less than the cost of a new stock line. If you do find out it is the Clutch Slave, Replacing the slave is the way to go. Not a hard job, but a little "tight" to get to the screws holding the slave in place. Earl

Hey Annie, Not to worry, I hope to make it to the NY Rally this year! (If they don't stop me at the state line....AGAIN!) I'll save a BIG hug for you! Earl

This message is for Canada Don, Here is a link to the items I offer in the Classifieds for the VR.ORG members. Pricing will be the same as in the Classifieds. The upside is if you purchase an item, it could very well wind up on your motorcycle before the weekend is over with! Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 If anyone has questions about any of the items I offer in the Classifieds, please feel free to contact me. Earl

As long as it is OK with Don, I will be bringing Clutch Kits, Fuse Box Kits, and assorted other items for display/sale/install. I usually have a pretty busy time at Don's Maint. Day, but love it. I will have my Carbtune as well. Installing S.S. Line Sets, and Rebuilding First Gen. MKI Carbs. will most definitely be beyond the scope of work I will be able to do on that weekend. Earl

Hey Doug, Great Job! If you don't mind me asking, what was the final cost of the install, and how much time did it take? Did you notice any improvement in the performance of your motorcycle? Did you install the Timing advance module that Gary offers? Where did you mount the unit? Thanks, and again great job! Earl

Several Years ago, I purchased a "new to me" 87' Venture Royale. Cosmetically, it was in pretty good shape, but it had been sitting for a number of years, and like MANY of the bikes the First Gen. owners have, it didn't run very well, and ALL of the fluids and oils had long past out lived their lives. Not to mention issues with the plug wires, TCI, Carbs. Fuse Box, Brake Lines... well, you get the picture. Typical 20 plus year old bike with worn out EVERYTHING! I found the VR.ORG Forum quite by mistake, I was searching for parts for my 87' and had Googled "Yamaha Venture Royale", and in the list of results, I found VR.ORG. I clicked on the link, started to read, and was amazed at the knowledge, and friendlyness of the VR.ORG family. I asked more than my share of newbie questions, got a lot of very helpful information, got poked and spanked a few times, (Yammer Dan, you rascal you!) But overall I fell in love with the wit, humor, and knowledge of this group of men and women on the VR.ORG Forum. I remember like it was yesterday, my first "road trip" to a meet and greet, it was in Gettysburg Pennsylvania, and I lived just east of Pittsburg Pennsylvania. I thought, "this will be a GREAT first ride, I will get to meet some of the people that have helped me get my bike back on the road"! Well, somewhere around Harrisburg Pennsylvania, I crossed a set of railroad tracks and as I bounced across the last track, ALL of the fuses in my 20 plus year old fuse box rained down on the ground, and my bike stopped dead in it's tracks. I never did make it to that meet and greet. BUT I did go home (with my tail between my legs) and build the first Fuse Box Upgrade Kit. The following year, my bike was in much better condition than it was that first year, and I made the decision to take the plunge, and go to Don's Maintenance Day. I wanted to meet some of the people that had helped me to get my bike running properly, But I also wanted to meet the Gentleman that has invested so much time and money in a group of people that owned these wonderful bikes. In today's modern world, it is very easy to portray yourself as something else other than who you really are on the computer because of the fact that you never really get to look a person in the eye, and shake his (or her) hand, and see for yourself what that person is made of. Call me old fashioned, but I have lived my life looking people in the eye, and sizing them up, and then deciding if this person is "for real", or blowing smoke. When I met Don Nelson for the first time, I found him to be very personable, he had a genuine LOVE for motorcycles, and also a love for this family of owners that we call VR.ORG. I camped on his property, I ate his food, I showered in his house, I worked on several bikes, and I made a LOT of new friends! Friends that I have visited with my wife, and by myself over the years. Don has tolerated my rants, he has given me advice, he has shared his home and his family with me, and most of all, he has given me a place to come and share my knowledge of motorcycles with that next "newbie" that was once me, and is now someone else. If you have been "lurking" on the forum, or if you and Don are old friends, I invite one and all to stop by on the weekend of the 29th of May, to a little college town called Oberlin, to meet the MAN, (I was referring to Don Nelson!) and make a few new friends. You might just learn something new about your motorcycle, the VR.ORG family, or yourself! I'll be there, will YOU? (And yes, my brother will be there as well) Earl

The last two First Gens. I purchased to "part out", (an 86'VR and an 87'VR respectively) netted me over $4000.00 each in parts. I paid $600. for the 86' and $400. for the 87'. If any of these three bikes were running, and looked decent, they would fetch between $1500. and $2500. all day long this time of the year with the 1990 VR maybe reaching $3000. if the fairing was not busted up. I would "camp out" in front of the dealership with a trailer and $3000. cash in my pocket, but not budge off of $2500. until 1 hour before closing time. I would be LOUD, and pester every customer that came thru the doors of the dealership until they saw it my way. But that's just me. Even at $3K you could end up with a free bike out of this deal. Earl