skydoc_17

Hey Casey, Thanks for the kind words. I later picked up on the fact that you had installed Progressives from another thread you had posted in. Those spacing washers are not hardened, and I would bet that the shavings you found in the fork oil were from the spacer. The fork tube is "hard chromed" and ground, and the up and down motion basically reamed the I.D. of the spacing washer out, causing the burr you found. Sounds like you have a really nice Venture there. If you happen to need any color matched 89'VR body parts, I have a few here. Good luck on your next ride, Earl

Hey Casey, As you have figured out by now, that washer is supposed to be flat. The reason that the spacer is NOT flat is because the stock fork spring has lost it's tension, and the spring is slamming the fork spring spacer tube into the bottom of the washer every time the forks bottom out. Fortunately, the springs can be changed out without removing the front forks again. Progressive makes an excellent set of fork springs for our bikes. Here's my link, but you are welcome to shop around for pricing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=188&title=first-gen-1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs&cat=17 Not replacing the fork springs will greatly reduce the life of the new seals. If you plan to sell this bike in the near future this may not be an issue, if you plan to keep the old girl, then I would look into those springs. Earl

I received a PM from Ed Lawrence (84xj1100) earlier this week, he told me after much thought, that he would be selling his 86'VR and not renewing his membership to VR.ORG. I was sad to hear this, to say the least. The passion that started each and every one of us riding motorcycles in the first place, at some point is replaced with the realization that as people that have "taken the path less traveled" we have to weigh our limitations, whatever they may be, and come to the conclusion that because of age, health, or physical limitations, we must give up our passion for riding, and hopefully replace it with the next leg of this journey we call "Life". I will miss Ed, I will miss his friendship, but I respect his decision to give up riding because it takes a "true man" to admit that he has realized his own limitations BEFORE he injures himself, or God forbid someone else. When my time comes, I hope I am MAN enough to make such a wise decision. Please take a moment and wish Ed a fond adue, and safe journeys in whatever new adVENTURE he undertakes. Safe Journeys, My dear old friend! Earl Here is the PM I received from Ed, "Skydoc, As one of the most helpful folks I've encountered on this forum, I'd like to ask you a favour, if it's not too much trouble. I just rec'd my membership renewal (due today) and unfortunately I believe this will be the year that I will be selling my 86 Venture. I won't be renewing the membership but wanted to ask if you could post my sincerest thanks to all on the forum for all there wisdom, assistance and guidance they've provided over the past 9 yrs and 80K kms. A special thank you to yourself as you've always made me feel so welcome on this forum. Thank You so much Ed Lawrence (84xj1100)"

Hey Sam, The shim kit is in my possession, and I have the gaskets in stock for your bike. It looks like you live in Ohio, so once a Paypal payment is received, You would most likely get the parts by the weekend. I can ship as early as tomorrow. PM me. Earl

Thanks for the plug guys! I DO still loan out my shop shim kit and tool for the VR.ORG members. I do require that you purchase your set of valve cover gaskets from me at the time of the shim kit loan. My kit currently has about 90 shims in it but because of the combinations needed to adjust the valves, I can't guarantee that I will have every shim you will need. I only loan this kit to members in the 48 states. It would be my pleasure to help any VR.ORG member with this project. Earl

Easier way to go! Grind off the remainder of the broken boss. Using a center drill, spot a hole as close to the center of the boss as you can. With a drill, drill thru the engine case and tap the hole. (this next part requires a machine shop, or at least a metal lathe) Using a grade "8" bolt with the same thread size you put in the case, cut off the head of the bolt, and machine a "new boss" into it. Screw the new boss into the threaded hole with "red loctite" and this project is done. Earl

Hey Heather, Both Jean and I send prayers for a speedy recovery! Take care of yourself first, the bike can wait. Please let us know how you are doing when you can. We are so sorry this has happened. Earl and Jean.

Hey Greg, As far as the running of Seafoam in your fuel goes, even with the non ethanol fuel on board, you have in my opinion at least one stuck float. With that being said, Seafoam has high quality mineral spirits (lubrication) in it's make up as well as Naphtha. (cleaning agent) It also has an emoulsifier in it which keeps the petroieum from seperating from the Ethanol. (Alcohol) Running Seafoam in your gas is a personal choice. I for one would rather be proactive as far as the Carbs. go rather than reactive. In other words, I would rather put a splash of Seafoam in my tank, than pull the Carb. rack off...AGAIN! Because I now live in Pennsylvania, I have a relatively short riding season, and my bike sits for periods of time due to my work schedule. The Seafoam keeps the floats from sticking, and washes out crud that collects in the float bowls. When I lived in California, I rode all year round, and Carb. issues were minimal because I had fresh gas cycling thru the Carbs. regularly. For my climate conditions, and frequency of riding, the use of Seafoam works for me. It may work for you as well, and it may not. If you are riding every day, and use non E10 gas, then try cleaning the Carbs. as I have described above, and all should be well. If you ride your bike once or twice on the weekend, even with non E10 gas, and it sits for the rest of the week in a hot (or unheated) garage, then still clean the Carbs. like I have described above, get a shot glass from your bar, add 1 ounce of Seafoam to a tank of gas, and see what the results are. I had to add two "shots" of Seafoam to a tank of gas to get the results I wanted, you may not need to, OR you may need to add 3 shots. The point being careful experimentation with additives like Seafoam will net you the results you desire, as long as you are consistent, and don't go "crazy" with the stuff. As far as the exhaust temps. from cylinder to cylinder goes, it's not the actual temp. that is important, it's the difference between the right front and left front, and the right rear and left rear that you are concerned with. Don't bother comparing front to rear cylinders, as they are exposed to different amounts of air, and are different lengths. If this were my bike, I would install 4 new plugs, and seriously consider changing out those 30 year old stock plug wires before I worried about exhaust temps, but that's just me. "Hard Parts" like plugs, and wires are easy to replace, and give you a reference, (items that you know are doing the job correctly). If you clean the Carbs., adjust the mix screws, Sync the Carbs., replace the plugs and wires, and run a little Seafoam, and you are still having an issue, then you now know that you need to look somewhere else! (Carb. rebuild, Gas filter replacement, coil replacement, TCI replacement, pickup replacement, etc.) Proactively addressing the issues in an organized manner will net you a bike that starts every time, runs well, and never leaves you stranded. This my friend, is the best you can hope for in a complex machine like the Venture that is 30 years old. Hell, I'm not nearly physically the man I was 30 years ago, but I'm a LOT smarter now then I was then. It's all relitive. More questions, feel free! Earl

OK Blue Sky, post corrected. As far as the raw fuel in the #2 Carb. goes Snyper, I would be concerned about a sticking float. Here is the method I use to clear the float bowls on the Venture: CleaningFirst Gen. Carbs. On The Bike Iuse this cleaning method to unstick a float needle that is causingthe gas tank to drain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. That ispassing raw gas out of the overflow tube when the bike is running.This on bike cleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Setneeding a complete rebuild, (off the bike) and does not address theissue of AIR PASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance.These two issues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. Withthe bike on the center stand, and the engine off, I select the firstCarb. I want to clean. You will be looking for the Black PlasticCarb. Drain Tube, and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips HeadScrew) You will need a small coffee can, or a coke can with the topcut off, (NO plastic containers) to catch the gas that will come outwhen you open the drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from theCarb. and have a look in the can for “floaters”. (Solidparticles) With a new can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw inthe end of the drain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, andthe drain tube with a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by.Press the button on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to3. Remove the red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffeecan. Move to the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, startover again, and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner onthe four Carbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten allfour drain tube screws, (CAUTIONDO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (donot start bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles andstop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down infront of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb.Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bikeout of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few shortbursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Gofor a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) ifthis doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild”may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in everytank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negativeeffects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Because of my shophere in South Central PA. I buy OEM parts direct from Yamaha, andshare my discount with the VR.ORG members. It would be my pleasure tohelp you with any project you have in mind for your First Gen. VR. Earl(skydoc_17)

Hey Gary, Since the "Idle Mixture Screws" only control the air/fuel ratio from idle to about 1800 RPMs, (and more turns out means less air, which means richer) set the idle mix screws at 2 1/2 turns on all four Carbs. Your bike spends most of it's time running at a much higher RPM. Then Re-Sync the Carbs at 3000 RPMs instead of 900. 3000 RPMs is the beginning of the "power band" for your bike, and where your motor is running a good amount of the time anyway. To verify your home made Manometer, (4 vacuum gauges) connect each vacuum gauge to the same cylinder (#2 cylinder) and note the difference in vacuum from gauge to gauge. Mark the gauge face with a magic marker where the needle lands and use that mark as your "Baseline". (Zero Reference) Then read all four cylinders with all 4 gauges and adjust from the zero reference line, NOT the zero vacuum point on the gauges. (the error will be much smaller doing the test this way) The difference in idle mix adjustment could be causing the difference in exhaust temps, but also consider that the front two exhaust pipes are fully exposed to air and the rear two are confined by the engine itself, the difference in length of the exhaust pipe from front to rear, and the frame. Being a bit of a perfectionist myself, (big time OCD!) I too like to have my mixture and Carb. Sync spot on, but it is relative. The engine in your bike spends very little time at idle in the grand scheme of things, I would spend my time tinkering with the Carb. Sliders and Diaphragms, checking for pin holes in the Diaphragms, cleaning out the slider bores, making sure the slider cap O'Rings are there, and are sealing the slider bore properly. This is the area of the Carbs. that controls the Cruse RPM of your motorcycle, and this is where my bike spends most of it's time... CRUSING! Earl

I think the issue that needs to be clarified here is are we talking about the flexible rubber hoses that are blocked, OR are we talking about the metal "hard line" that runs down the frame that connect to the rubber hoses. Replacement of the rubber hoses with S.S. lines is an excellent idea, but won't address an issue with the hard line being blocked. I personally have dealt with a few First Gens. that have had a blocked hard line. When the bike sits for a number of years with very old brake fluid in the lines, the water that has been absorbed by the brake fluid actually RUSTS the inside of the hard line, causing the blockage. In my opinion, trying to remove the rust is a fruitless effort. Even if you can clear the blockage, once rust forms on the inside of the hard brake line, it's like a "cancer" and will continue to contaminate the brake fluid, damaging the seals of the calipers and master cylinder. On the MKI First Gen. there is only one hard line running from the rear master cylinder to the junction of the left front caliper at the front of the bike. The De-Link kit I offer for the First Gens. takes this hard line out of the braking system completely. The other advantage of the De-Link Kit is that when it is installed, BOTH front calipers are activated by the right front brake lever, allowing for EQUAL braking force on both sides of the front rim, (ZERO brake steer) and the rear caliper is activated by the foot pedal, which allows for rear brake activation only during low speed "parking lot" type maneuvers. I created the De-Link kit for my own 87'VR when I laid down my bike TWICE at low speed, transitioning from a paved road to a gravel driveway. I tapped the rear foot pedal and the left front caliper locked up on the gravel. NO damage to my bike, but my pride was a little sore. After the second time, I knew that there must be a better way to control my motorcycle with the front and rear brakes and I went to work on the De-Link Kit. The last thing I would like to mention is in the "Ride Like A Pro" video series, you will hear a lot about the "Friction Zone" which is the application of the rear brake only while throttling up the engine. I use this technique regularly for slow speed maneuvers around parked cars, sloped roadways, and gravel roads. This is a very powerful riding tool, and the De-Link Kit allows you to use this tool like a Pro. Questions, parts? Feel free to PM me. Earl

Hey Paysaw, Congrats on your "new to you" FJR! These are GREAT motorcycles! Fast,nimble, with storage! Who could ask for more. Just an FYI, our local Yamaha Dealer has NEW, leftover 2015 FJR's for $8900.00 with zero miles on them. If you are looking to purchase one, keep this price point in mind. Congrats again Paysaw, I'm sure you will be happy with your new scoot. Earl

Hey Greg, One thing I want to mention here, The TCI for the 83'VR will only work on an 83'VR! All of the other TCI's are different. If you have replaced your 83 TCI with a TCI from any other year bike, the bike will run, but will overheat on the road due to the Ignition Curve being off for the 83'VR. If this TCI is from an 84 up, don't stray to far from home, you will be pushing that bike back to your garage. Just an FYI. Earl

Hey Greg, In the early 80's, both auto and motorcycle manufacturers were scrambling to meet the new EPA requirements about combustion gases being vented to the open air. A "quick fix" was to run a scavenger tube from the crankcase to the air box. The theory was that Carb. vacuum would pull the crankcase emissions into the air box, and be recirculated into the Carbs. With the tube off of the air box, you have changed the air flow ratio to the Carbs. (too lean) By replacing the crankcase vent tube, you have returned the air flow ratio to the stock setting. This is what stopped the popping. The risk with the vent tube connected is if you over fill the engine oil, or your bike has quite a few miles on it, you will vacuum the excess engine oil or "blow by" engine gasses from worn piston rings right into the air box, contaminating the air filter and the Carbs. I do offer a Vent Filter and Air Box Block Off Kit, But have removed it from the VR.ORG Classifieds because of protests from "tree huggers" and "carbon footprint police" that feel that even though the kit does an excellent job of separating the Air Box from combustion gases from the crankcase, it harms the environment. Out of respect for those people, I removed the kit from the Classifieds. I do sell, and install this kit for First Gens. at my shop. If you are interested, please feel free to PM me. Sorry Jane Fonda! Earl

Hey John, You might try this cleaning method BEFORE you go to all of the trouble of removing and rebuilding the Carbs. A year is a long time to sit, but you might luck out and have this do the trick. CleaningFirst Gen. Carbs. On The Bike I use this cleaningmethod to unstick a float needle that is causing the gas tank todrain when the bike is parked, or for a Carb. That is passing raw gasout of the overflow tube when the bike is running. This on bikecleaning DOES NOT address the issue of a Carb. Set needing a completerebuild, (off the bike) and does not address the issue of AIRPASSAGES being blocked, and causing poor performance. These twoissues require the Carbs. be removed from the bike. With the bike on thecenter stand, and the engine off, I select the first Carb. I want toclean. You will be looking for the Black Plastic Carb. Drain Tube,and the screw that opens that drain. (Phillips Head Screw) You willneed a small coffee can, or a coke can with the top cut off, (NOplastic containers) to catch the gas that will come out when you openthe drain screw. Allow all of the gas to drain from the Carb. andhave a look in the can for “floaters”. (Solid particles) With anew can of Carb. Cleaner, insert the red straw in the end of thedrain tube. I wrap the junction of the red straw, and the drain tubewith a small piece of shop towel to slow the blow by. Press thebutton on the top of the can of Carb. Cleaner, and count to 3. Removethe red straw and let the cleaner fluid run into the coffee can. Moveto the next Carb. and repeat. When you do Carb. #4, start over again,and do them again. I use up one can of Carb. Cleaner on the fourCarbs. When the can of Carb. Cleaner is gone, retighten all fourdrain tube screws, (CAUTION DO NOTOVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN SCREWS) Turn on the ignition switch, (do notstart bike) listen for the fuel pump to fill the Carb. Bowles andstop pumping, check the drain tubes and the overflow tubes (down infront of rear tire) for fuel leakage, move the can with the Carb.Cleaner/Gas mixture away from the bike, (or better yet, roll the bikeout of the garage) and start the bike. (It may take a few shortbursts on the starter motor, and you may need to choke it as well) Gofor a ride and “blow the cobwebs out” (my personal FAV part) ifthis doesn’t solve your problem, then a “Carbs. Off Rebuild”may be in order. On a side note, I run 3 ounces of Seafoam in everytank of gas I put in my 87’and 89’VR because of the negativeeffects of the Ethanol in the fuel these days. Earl (skydoc_17)

Hey Bobber, The issue is with the spacing of the FRONT WHEEL! You can "trim" the front wheel spacers and decrease the span between the front forks. I have seen this before. Not to get off topic, but the problem with putting a front R1 Caliper on the rear of a Venture is the fact that the bleeder is not located at the top of the Caliper Body. Bleeding this caliper is a real pain unless you remove it from the rotor, bleed it, then return it to the rotor. I offer a progressive engagement,(2 big pistons, 2 little pistons) 4 piston caliper with the bleeder in the right location completely rebuilt. If anyone is interested, please feel free to PM me. Earl

I have met quite a few people in my life, but the list of REAL MEN is quite a bit shorter! Rarely in this day and age do you fine a couple that will open up their home and allow it to be "invaded" yearly by a group of people that only have one thing in common, "A Love Of Motorcycles". Don, your tireless effort on this forum and your Maint. Day are a shining example of the dedication and selflessness that I feel has been lost in our modern society. I can only speak for myself but I truly "feel like family" when I visit your home each year, and the way that you Don, and Eileen make each and everyone of us feel special while we are in your presence is surely a lost art in today's world. It is truly an honor and pleasure to call you Don, and Eileen friends, and to be part of this special group that SHARE THIS LOVE OF MOTORCYCLES! Thank you Don and Eileen for yet another great Maint. Day! Earl

Hey JF, Here's the kit I offer for the MKI VR's in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=61&title=first-gen-mki-heavy-duty-clutch-springs-upgrade-kit&cat=17 Good luck with this project! Earl

Hey Craig, First off, sorry about you luck there! I personally wrap that bolt with white teflon thread tape and have never had one break off on me. Second, I have a few of those First Gen. rear brake reservoirs here at the shop. If someone needs one, I can help you with that. I personally would not suggest that you repair this unit, considering that a failure of this reservoir takes out two thirds of your braking ability. Earl

Hey Pat, I was shocked to see that not a single person answered your post. The outside diameter of the fork tubes on a First Gen. are 40MM (1.575") in diameter. Earl

Hey All, To clarify some of the questions asked in this thread, lets walk thru the idle circuit of the Carbs. as well as the main jets, and see if we can solve this "running rich" condition for the members that are having this issue. First off, the Carb. Diaphragms can in fact be removed without removing the Carb. bodies. If your Carb. Diaphragms are 20 to 30 years old, I suggest you do this replacement. I also suggest that you start with all 4 of the Idle Mixture Screws set at 2 1/2 turns from bottom out as a "base line". Fine tuning can take place after the Diaphragms have been replaced, and the main jets have been shimmed, and the Carbs. have been Synced. By shimming the main jet needles, you are actually adding more AIR to the mixture coming down the throttle body, you are NOT adding more fuel. This is why shimming the main jets leans out the mixture, and improves gas mileage. The Needle Shim Mod listed below is NOT a performance Mod, it is a mod to increase gas mileage. You will loose a bit of "top end" but the gas savings will be well worth it, and frankly, I have never felt that this motorcycle lacked horsepower personally. Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=202&title=first-gen-1983-to-1993-vr-needle-shim-mod-kit&cat=17 For a newly acquired VR, or a VR that has not been a "daily driver", these replacement parts and adjustments will get you well on your way to having a dependable motorcycle that runs well, and gets good gas mileage in my opinion. If you have any questions about the install or adjustment of any of the parts described above, please feel free to PM me. Earl

Hey Guys, NOT to be the Killjoy here, but your Clutch Slave Cylinder is leaking, and will need to be replaced. If you have questions, or need help with parts and gaskets, PM me. Earl

A BIG THANKS to one and all for the replies! I was outbid at the last minute, so it is a non-issue now. Thanks again for the help, and Merry Christmas to you all. (I guess I will be getting a "TIE" again this year for Christmas!) Earl

I am looking at a small metal cutting saw on Ebay, and the listing is "pick up only". I would still like to purchase this item, but need some help with the "pick up only" part. Are there any VR.ORG members near Lake Villa, Illinois that would be so kind as to pick this item up for me and allow me to pick it up at your location in the near future? Thanks in advance, and Merry Christmas everyone! Earl

Hey Bert, Here's another option Than the Barnett: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=62&title=second-gen-heavy-duty-clutch-spring-26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit&cat=17 If you have any questions about the kit, PM me. Earl