skydoc_17

Hey Joe, It's GREAT to see you back on the Forum, It's been a while! I can't offer you any suggestions on where to get this service done in Orlando, but I can offer gasket sets, and my shop shim kit if you wanted to do this service yourself while visiting Florida. If this would work for you, let me know. Again, great to have you back! Earl

Hey Bob, I personally make it a habit of always "Laughing With" a forum member working on his motorcycle, NEVER at them! You are correct, you need to snip the connecting strip off between the gasket surfaces. These strips are in the gasket die to help with the flow of the rubber, they are not part of the actual gasket assembly. The saving grace here is the fact that the valve cover can't be installed with the strips in place. Give yourself credit for figuring this out on your own. The fact that you performed this maintenance without taking your bike to a dealer is HUGE! I hope that others have been following this thread, and will have the courage to work on their own bikes as a results of your project. Congrats on a job well done! Earl

I have the FJR1300 final drive in my 87'VR but it was not a direct swap. I had to machine custom bushings to get the spacing right so I could tighten up the rear axle shaft without binding. On both the First Gens. and the Second Gens. you would use the drive shaft from your bike for the swap. The Vmax drive shaft is too long, and the FJR drive shaft is even longer yet due to longer swing arms on the Vmax and FJR. Unless you are skilled in the "set up" of a ring and pinion gear rear end I would suggest you go with the assembled unit. It's not the skill level of the install of the gears but the access to the shims, and the use of dial indicators that makes this project something more than a "shade tree" project. An improperly set up final drive will result in a final drive failure, or a rear wheel lock up. If you love "chugging around" in 5th gear at 50 mph then the Vmax final drive swap is not for you. If you enjoy "carving" the twisties, or you pull a trailer, or ride two up with max luggage a lot then you will find the Vmax final drive upgrade very helpful. When installing the final drive, pay particular attention to the placement of the bushings, caliper brackets, and spacing washers. Misplacement of ANY of these items will cause the rear wheel to bind, or the rear brake caliper to be out of alignment with the rear rotor. Don't forget to lube the driveshaft splines and the splines on the rear wheel inner hub before you reinstall the final drive. This would also be a good time to swap out the rear brake pads and forget about the back of your scoot for a while. Just sayin". Earl

Hey Jeff, Both Jean and I are very sorry to hear of the passing of your mother. In my own life, the passing of my mother was the hardest thing I have ever had to bear. My father, who was a very wise man once told me that, "As long as we hold on to them in our hearts, they are never really gone". These words gave me the strength to carry on. I hope they bring you some peace as well. You are in our thoughts and prayers, my dear friend. Earl and Jean.

Hey George, I know you were hoping for an answer from the Pucster, but I thought I would throw my iron in the fire as well. Because our Ventures are put together on an assembly line, the hard line can be attached to the frame, and the engine installed, then the rubber lines connected. The second reason is the hard line won't expand over time like the rubber lines will, and the hard line is cheaper than the rubber lines. Lastly, If the bike runs over an obstruction, (2X4, tree branch, deer, etc.) or goes down, the hard line would most likely hold up better. As far as the actual install goes, Attaching the S.S. line to the frame, and routing it away from engine heat, exhausts, and pinch points will be the primary concern. After the connection to the frame, be sure you can turn the handlebars from lock to lock without straining the clutch line. I personally would have used the hard line, but that is NO reason for you not to use the one piece line. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=54&title=second-gen-ss-6-pc-brake-26amp-3b-clutch-line-set-w-2f-vmax-splitter&cat=17 Earl

Congrats Jeff, Does this mean you'll have your own Reality Show like "Judge Judy"??? Also do we now have to call you "Your Honor"??? O brother! "Judge Jeffy"!!! Very proud of you, my friend! Earl

This thread is like my ex-wife, it keeps poppin' up in my world to haunt me! lol. At the risk of ripping off the band-aid on an old wound, I have created a kit that has everything you need to install a Crankcase Vent Filter on a FIRST GEN. VENTURE. I don't know if this mod will fit a Second Gen. because I don't own one. (and usually they can't keep up with me so I rarely get to see one!) Just kiddin' guys! Please use this kit responsibly, The vent filter in this kit is washable and reusable, so when you notice oil collecting on the outside of the filter, do the right thing and wash it out and reinstall the filter. This kit comes with complete written instructions, and EVERY part you will need. It takes an hour or two to install this kit. Here is the link to the kit. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=427&title=first-gen-crankcase-vent-filter-upgrade&cat=17 This is what I know for sure. I have had this vent filter on my 87'VR for 8 years. (I now have one on my 89'VR as well) I have washed the filter three times. I clean my K&N air filter every year and to this day, I have not found one drop of engine oil in the air box. I rebuilt my Carbs. eight years ago, and they are as clean as the day I rebuilt them. I have never had oil dripping from the vent filter. My bike has been inspected yearly and I have never had an issue with the state inspector over the vent filter. I live in Pennsylvania. If putting this mod on your bike makes you uncomfortable, then by all means, don't install this mod on your bike! With that being said, if you have a First Gen. with an air box full of oil, or your Carbs. are brown and crusty from sucking oil into them, or you have trashed a few air filters because of oil in your air box, then this Crankcase Vent Filter Kit may be the answer you are looking for. As always, we are ALL adults here, and you must make the decision that this kit is something you can live with. If you have questions about the kit, or questions in general, please feel free to PM me. Earl

Hey Rich, I think what you are looking at are the plates and "shields" that connect the front Carbs. to the rear Carbs. They are removable, and are held in place with 2 pan head screws in the top of each Carb. The tank will need to be removed to access those screws. BUT adjusting the Idle Mixture Screws WILL NOT solve the issue you are describing. You WILL need to rejet the mains, and possibly the pilot jets as well. You will also need to factor in the use of the K&N air filter, and any additional exhaust air flow you have over the stock exhausts with the muffler "mod" you did. Another thing to be mentioned here is that the aftermarket jet kits don't use the same number system that Yamaha uses for the stock main jets and pilot jets. In other words, a stock 17.5 pilot jet from Yamaha is NOT going to be the same as a 17.5 Dynojet, or Mikuni pilot jet, I am sorry to say. Your two choices at this point are to replace ALL of the mains and pilots with the stock Yamaha jets, and "live with" the results, or in my opinion, take this bike to a shop that has a Dyno, and have them "set up the Carbs." with the K&N filters and the muffler mod you currently have on the bike, using the Dyno to achieve the best torque and horsepower that engine can make, if you are happy with the sound of the bike currently. There is a possibility I could help you with reshimming the mains, but this would require you measuring the main shims, or sending me a main shim for me to measure, and then me machining a set of shims for you to "try out". The rub here is if we go to lean on the shims, we do damage to YOUR engine. This bike has been set up to run with a modified air filter, and free flow exhaust, a twist of a screw or two is not going to change that. Earl

Hey Steve, Cute cat. If he ever grows into those ears, he will weigh about 47 pounds! LOL. Earl

Hey Paul, Welcome to the forum! I always say, "knowledge is power"! There is nothing wrong with finding out what you're up against in advance before making a purchase. I copied this from the Tech section, I compiled this list of items when a member of the forum was shopping for a used VR a while back. You may find it useful. Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. The 1990 bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1991 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. (4 brush starter upgrade) I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot! If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking. With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic. While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected. Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything. Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF! My thoughts, for what they are worth. I compiled this list for a member that was looking at a 89'VR a few years ago, but this list can be used for ANY bike you are looking at. I personally think the MKI VR's were a bit more "nimble" than the MKII VR's. BUT things like the poor braking system, the hydraulic anti-dives, and the second gear problem make the MKII's a much better buy. With that being said, you will find much better deals on the MKI VR's because of the issues I mentioned. With winter coming, this is the PERFECT time of the year to shop for a used motorcycle. The thing you need to keep in mind when you are shopping for a 30 year old bike is the fact that EVERYTHING on these bikes is 30 years old! The second thing you need to keep in mind is the fact that if you don't LOVE to work on your own motorcycle, don't buy a 30 year old bike in the first place. Getting a "good deal" on a First Gen. motorcycle is NOT going to be a deal at all if you haul it to a Motorcycle Repair Shop and have 4 grand worth of work done to it just to get it to stop and go properly. Put that money into a much newer bike and just ride the thing. You don't need to be a "jet mechanic" to work on a Venture, but you do need the willingness to do the work, and a place to do it, and the tools to get the job done. There are many members on this forum that can walk you thru ANY repair that needs to be done on the Yamaha Venture. But if you have never twisted a wrench in your life, or you are afraid to get you hands dirty, or you are just a afraid of this machine in general, then I suggest you spend a bit more money, and purchase a newer motorcycle that doesn't need a complete rebuild and RIDE! Only you can honestly answer that question for yourself. I personally think that these bikes were one of the best motorcycles that were ever built, and there are great deals out there on them. But to get them to stop and go properly, you WILL be working on them! A lot in the beginning, and a lot less after you get them functioning properly. If this kind of project is "your cup of tea", then I wish you the best of luck in your search, if this is not, then be honest with yourself, and purchase a motorcycle that needs more ridin' than fixin'! Good luck with your search! These are my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl

Hey Bob, I am sure everyone appreciates the kind words about this forum, I personally have found the info here extremely useful over the years. I also want to commend you for keeping your bike running all these years, I have an 87'VR and 89'VR and have been successful keeping both of these bikes running using the helpful tips from this forum. Now, about your projects. I offer my shop shim kit out for loan to the VR.ORG members at NO CHARGE. I ask that you purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me (which I keep in stock) and you pay for the shipping of the Shim Kit to you, and the return shipping with Insurance. If you are interested in this, please feel free to PM me. Next, In the Member Vendor's section of the Classifieds, I offer a First Gen. Fuse Box Upgrade Kit, here is the link to that kit: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=59&title=first-gen-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit&cat=17 When I moved my TCI to the Air Box location, I was able to remove the battery box, and I snipped the tabs off of the TCI, the mounting bolts were rusted solid, and I was not able to get the TCI unbolted. I then clipped the cable ties which held the TCI wire harness to the side of the mount and rerouted the wiring harness up to the Air Box. I used Velcro on the top of the Air Box, and the bottom of the TCI to mount the TCI on top of the Air Box. When I need to replace the Air Filter, I pull the TCI off of the Air Box, replace the filter, then reattach the TCI with the Velcro. As far as the removal of the Valve covers goes, I have never removed anything other than the plastic side covers, the false tank cover, the metal cross bar,and the lower legs of the fairing which gives me more than enough room to get the valve covers out. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket to get the Valve Cover Grommet bolts out. After the removal, I clean the Valve Covers really well, I use the "BLUE" gasket sealer in the groove of the Valve Cover, install the gasket in the Valve Cover, flip the Valve Cover upside down on a clean, flat surface, and place a book or other weight on top of the Valve Cover and let the gasket sealer set up over night. Now you don't have to worry about the gasket falling out of the Valve Cover when you go to reinstall the Valve Covers. I personally do not use gasket sealer on the engine side of the Valve Cover Gasket! I have found that the rear Valve Cover is the "challenge" on this project, It is a tight fit to say the least. Don't be afraid to use a rubber mallet during the removal of the Valve Covers and old gaskets. If it is the original set, the Yamahabond on those gaskets may need a little "bump" to get it to break loose. I also use flat washers on the grommets if I am not going to replace them. The number of washers depends on how Squished the grommets are at the time of the removal. As far as the Boost Sensor goes, it either works, or it don't. It can be tested. I can't think of any reason to relocate it, it gets decent cooling in it's stock location, and is not effected by moisture, as it is a sealed system. (Vacuum) Both of my First Gens. have had the TCI relocated, but the Boost Sensor is in the stock location on both. I have had to replace the sensor on the 89'VR once. All of the projects you are going to do are going to require a medium to high amount of patience! The skill level is moderate, but if you get "heavy handed" during the performance of these maintenance items, you will be spending some extra time repairing "broken stuff"! I like to do projects like this one at a time, and when I feel my patience starting to disappear, I TAKE A BREAK! Then I return to the project with "fresh eyes", and renewed vigor. During these projects, please feel free to PM me if you have any questions, or if I can help you with the shim kit loan. In the beginning, I was my own worst enemy, I punished myself for not taking my time and doing a good job. As I have gotten older, I have "slowed my roll"! Now, I take my time, I take a break when I get tired, or mad, I don't skimp on the quality of parts I use, and I have found that most of the time, I fix things ONCE, without breaking anything else, and without beating myself up, and I end up with the results I was looking for. This method works really well for me, perhaps it will work well for you too. Sorry to get so "windy" in my explanation of these vital maintenance projects, but I want you to feel that you can do these jobs yourself, and if you need help, ALL of the members of this forum are here to help you! Who could ask for more than that! Earl

Evan, my old friend, (NO pun intended!) My birthday was the 17th, and although it wasn't my 70th, I too had a wonderful day. Great minds think alike, I guess. Happy Birthday, my friend. May we both see many more years, and miles on our scoots. Who would have thought we would still be riding after all these years! Cheers to you! Earl and Jean.

Hey Shadetree, If you don't mind me asking, what was your final bid on that beauty? Just wonderin'! Earl

Hey James, Welcome to the forum! Any modern motorcycle is going to have it's pluses and minuses, I suggest that you test ride a few to see which one fits your body, your riding style, and your budget. I did want to mention that on the earlier years of the RSV, some of these bikes were equipped with the very desirable Cassette Tape Player. These were very rare bikes that came with this option, and could actually increase the value of the motorcycle from a resale standpoint. Frankly, I feel that when Yamaha upgraded to the Ultra High Def Blu-Ray player on the later models, They cheapened the riding experience because there is nothing like the thrill of trying to change out a Cassette Tape, one handed, at 70 miles per hour! But hey, that's just me! GOTCH'A SECOND GEN. RIDERS! All kidding aside James, welcome to the VR.ORG FORUM!

Hey Dave, Congrats on your "new to you" scoot! If you are not seeing brake fluid at the left front caliper, the rear caliper, or dripping off of the frame from the proportioning valve, then I am afraid the Rear Master Cylinder needs to be rebuilt. The seals once worn, allow air to be reintroduced into the closed brake system. After the rebuild of the rear master, this kit will improve the bleeding process, and brake performance: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=316&title=6-line-first-gen-ss-brake-line-delink-kit-with-both-clutch-lines&cat=17 Earl

Hey Walt, This switch does need to be cleaned from time to time. I use a small amount of CONDUCTIVE GREASE, (NOT! DIELECTRIC GREASE) on these contacts and it helps prolong the functioning of the switch. As far as the Carb. Sync goes, I put a fair amount of miles on my bike, and am tinkering with it all the time so I spent the money and got the tool. I ride my bike HARD, and if I notice a drop off in power, or change in RPM at idle, or vibration at highway speeds, or hard starting I usually start with the Carb. Sync. If you ride your bike 500 miles a year, chug around in 5th gear all the time, don't like getting your hands dirty, or have some physical limitation that won't let you get down on your hands and knees and connect up the vacuum lines then $80.00 is not a bad price. I personally wouldn't go more than a riding season without checking the Sync. on the Carbs. Some people like to RIDE, some people like to WRENCH, I like to RIDE and WRENCH! Lucky Me! Earl

Hey Burr, Welcome to the forum! Great score on your "new to you" 83'VR! Many of us have found that the bigger the score money wise you make on these bikes, the more will need to be done to get them road worthy again. Keep in mind that as bad as the condition of the clutch fluid system is in, the braking system will be in the same condition as well. After purchasing many of these used bikes myself, I have found that the best way to proceed here is to change ALL of the fluids right off the bat. Then figure out which system is not functioning properly. (front right brake caliper, rear caliper and front left caliper, (these two calipers are linked) and the clutch system) The right front caliper has it's own master cylinder, located on the right side handlebar. The left front caliper and the rear caliper are linked to the rear master cylinder, located on the right rear of the bike, near the passenger floor board. The Clutch has a master cylinder on the left side handlebar, and a slave cylinder located on the left side of the engine behind the "middle gear cover", rearward of the stator cover. You will need to remove this middle gear cover to bleed the clutch, and replace or rebuild the clutch slave. There is a gasket on this cover that will need to be replaced, so don't forget to order one BEFORE you tear into the cover. Also, at the six o'clock position there is a cap screw that has a brass washer on it because this cap screw passes into the oil gallery of the engine, and the brass washer seals the cap screw. If this washer is missing, it needs to be replaced. Also make a note of the washer position and on reassembly, return the longer cap screw and washer to it's original position. Other fluids I would address would be the engine coolant, rear differential oil, engine oil, and front fork oil. I also like to install a new air filter, fuel filter and plugs in a new purchase just so I have a "baseline" for maintenance in the future. I also keep a written record of all parts I put on the bike, and any tricks, part numbers etc. I might need to remember. Questions, parts? Feel free to PM me. Earl

This is a snipe hunt in my opinion! If he says he pulled the plastic, replaced the relay, and billed you for the labor, AND THE BIKE CONTINUES TO START AND RUN PROPERLY, how would you know if he really pulled the plastic and replaced the relay!?!? Ride the bike until the relay fails, carry a spare in your saddlebag if it makes you feel better, AND SAVE YOUR MONEY for brake pads or a new tire. Earl

Hey Mike, There are a few other things to take into account because of the way that the braking system is set up on your 83'VR. First off, it is an excellent idea to purchase a NEW Clutch Slave Cylinder to replace your slave. The chances of your old slave being rebuildable after 34 years are pretty slim. Also the new slave will basically be "plug and play". Remove the old slave, install the new slave, and you will be done. Keep in mind that you will need a new Middle Gear Cover Gasket which needs to be removed to get to the old slave. Now, about that rear master cylinder. If the rear master is not working, that means that not only is your rear brake not working, BUT your left front caliper is not working as well because the rear caliper and the left front caliper are linked together! At this point, you are stopping your 800 pound motorcycle with your right front caliper ONLY! Since you are considering replacing the rear master with a new one, I would highly suggest that you replace the 1983 to 1985 MKI rear master with the 1986 to 1993 MKII Rear Master Cylinder. The outside valve body on both of these cylinders is the exact same, so mounting the new MKII master will not be a problem, and the MKII master has a larger bore, and rebuild kit are still available from Yamaha. The added braking force is an added bonus as well. If this were my bike, I would replace the slave, replace the rear master with the MKII master, Rebuild the rear, left front, and right front calipers, and install new pads on all three calipers. These bikes are fast and powerful Mike, but it doesn't do much good to go fast, if you can't get the bike to STOP once all of the going fast fun is over with. There are other upgrades available for the braking system on this motorcycle, if you are interested, please feel free to PM me. Either way you decide to go here Mike, good luck with this project, and congrats on your "new to you" 83'VR! Earl

Hey Rob, As of 8:14PM EST my PayPal account has not received a payment for either kit from you. It may be because it's the weekend. In either case, that kit is the same, and costs the same for the MKII VR and the Second Gen. RSV except for the clutch cover gasket. I will make SURE that your kit comes with the Second Gen. clutch cover gasket if the payment shows up Monday morning, no matter which kit you purchased. If it doesn't show up, I will contact you, arrange for payment, and get your parts right out to you. Please be patient a little while longer, and we will get this Clutch issue taken care of. Earl

Hey Rob, Everything mentioned here are good suggestions to check. 75K on a stock Second Gen. Clutch System is extremely good service on these wear parts. This tells me that you are not excessively slipping the clutch with the engine revved to high, and that your fingers are not too short to control the clutch lever properly. With that being said, let's take a look at the stock Clutch Diaphragm Spring in your current clutch system, and the difference between the Heavy Duty Clutch Diaphragm Spring and the Barnett Clutch System. The Clutch Diaphragm Spring which I include in all of my kits is from PCW, it is .010 thicker and the higher heat treat makes this clutch spring much stronger. The Barnett Clutch Upgrade actually uses 6 compression springs which do make for a very dependable clutch system, but the issue I have with this system is that it adds over 1 pound of unsprung weight to the end of the crankshaft, robbing power from the engine. The Barnett system is actually a copy of the "old style" compression spring system that Yamaha used on their bikes in the mid to late 70's before the single Clutch Diaphragm Spring system was developed. The stock clutch diaphragm spring was known to be a weak point in both the First and Second Gens. The fact that you got 75K out of your stock clutch is a testament to your excellent riding habits. At this point, in my opinion, you need to change out the clutch spring, or springs as the case may be. As always Rob, the choice is yours! The $95.00 kit I offer will get you the Heavy Duty Clutch Diaphragm Spring, a brand new, Genuine Yamaha Clutch Cover Gasket, and one full friction disc, which I suggest you place at the beginning of the Clutch Pac, next to the pressure plate. Or option B would be to convert to the Barnett System. Since you said you will be selling the bike in the near future, and strictly from a money viewpoint, the kit I offer would give you a dependable clutch for the remaining time you would own your bike for less money. If you were going to keep your bike until "the wheels fell off" I would suggest replacement of ALL of the clutch friction discs, and the install of the Heavy Duty Clutch Diaphragm Spring, or the Barnett Upgrade. Either would give you a dependable clutch for many, many miles to come, but varying in price. Once you have made a decision about which way you are going to go as far as a clutch system goes, it would be my pleasure to help you with any parts you need. Earl

This was an excellent read. The comments after the article were as interesting as the article itself. As much as I hate to admit it, I have lived thru other debates over innovations like disc brakes on motorcycles, hydraulic clutches, modulating headlights, radial tires, etc, etc. There always seems to be two schools of thought on these subjects, A) "It's cool, it's new, I gotta' have it!" and B) "we don't need no new fangeled ABS braking system on our bikes!" A large part of the joy of owning and riding motorcycles for me is the "tinkering" part. I love to modify the braking, clutch, electrical, suspension, performance and lighting systems on my motorcycles, and then go for a ride and test the results. If the mods function properly, I share them with the other members of this forum. Some members embrace these upgrades, some don't. The very essence of owning and riding a motorcycle in my opinion is the option to CHOOSE how we ride, how safely we ride, where we ride, and who we ride with. In these modern times, FREEDOM like this is becoming harder and harder to find. I truly hope that I personally NEVER get so "old in the brain", that I would not ride with a fellow biker because of the bike he (or she) rode, or because of the accessories that were on the bike. My only exception to this is a rider that endangers the other riders in the group! I have refused to ride with these riders on several occasions. But that's just me. Thanks for sharing this article with us. Earl

Hey Mike, Welcome to the Forum! The noise that you are hearing is most likely the bearing that supports the clutch basket. That bearing gets a bit "loose" at your mileage point, and the basket flops around a bit in the Clutch housing. I personally have replaced that bearing in my 87'VR and after about 20K, the noise came back again. It is my opinion that this is one of those noises that you have with this particular motorcycle, and is of very little concern. My bike sees red line regularly, and has never given me a bit of trouble in the engine department. I run the 20W-50 Castrol dino oil, and this seemed to help with the noise somewhat, but being as OCD as I am, it was still there to some degree. Earl

Bobby is correct, You will need to disassemble the MKI rear foot peg, and install the rubber from the MKI foot peg on the front foot peg of your bike. Earl

Hey Casey, Have a look at this link if you are looking for better fuel economy as opposed to horse power: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=202&title=first-gen-1983-to-1993-vr-needle-shim-mod-kit&cat=17 Also have a look at this link for ALL of the offerings I have for the First Gens: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=4738 You might find a few useful items in the postings I have in the Member Vendor Classifieds. The Venture isn't a VMAX, but it WILL raise your hair a bit, and is a lot more comfortable! Earl