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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. There's another option for the replacement of the 5/8" Master Cylinder with the 14MM Master Cylinder from another motorcycle. I offer my S.S. Line Set for the Second Gens. which replaces every rubber brake and clutch line on your bike with Stainless Steel Braided, Kevlar lined brake and clutch lines. It also has a specially machined VMAX front brake splitter and S.S. adaptor bracket. The VMAX Splitter has a "Secondary Reservoir" machined into it that softens the engagement of the brakes for a better feel. Here's the link: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139143-Second-Gen-6-S-S-Brake-Line-Set-w-VMAX-Splitter-and-Upper-and-Lower-Clutch-Lines! As was stated, ANY of the R1 or R6 SIDE MOUNT front calipers will work on the RSV and RSTD motorcycles. The spacing of the caliper mounts is 100MM. There were years for the R1 and R6 where a 4 piston TOP MOUNT brake caliper were offered in Gold, Blue, and Silver. These brake calipers WILL NOT FIT the RSV and RSTD'S. There is also a 6 piston front caliper offered on the late model R1 that is also a TOP MOUNT as well, it WILL NOT FIT our bikes either. The other thing I wanted to mention here is because the Side Mount R1/R6 Calipers have a one piece body, they offer a few different challenges when it comes time to do a rebuild. When looking at the caliper body, it would appear that the "STAR" would unscrew from the caliper body, exposing the caliper pistons. This is not the case! The Star has been epoxied into the caliper body, and removal of the caliper pistons is achieved thru the clearance area where the rotor passes thru the caliper body. I have a fixture I use to remove the pistons without damaging the caliper body or the caliper pistons. Questions, comments, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  2. As many of you know, "My mind is a playground", where nothing is impossible. Still, I am having trouble wrapping my head around the fact that there is a very good chance that the Puckster could end up being our "Ambassador" to the arriving horde of Aliens as they descend on Area 51 in the near future. I fully realize that our beloved CowPuc is "THE MAN, THE LEGEND", but I still fear for the safety of these poor Aliens! ONE ride on Tweeks will most likely send at least one of the Aliens multiple hearts into Cardiac Arrest!! It would sadden me to find out that one of our newly found Alien Brothers succumbed to copious amounts of Black Coffee, Beer, and Beef Jerky! I am also worried that an Intergalactic War could break out because the Puckster had to Bit*h Slap an alpha male Alien for "winking" at his wife. I am SURE that all of these worries are totally unfounded, that the Puckster will be a perfect Gent, and that he will represent our earthly race with the highest dignity. (Yea, right! Keep your powder dry!) I guess we will see how this plays out! Earl P.S. (You know I love ya', man!) E.
  3. Hey Don, Thanks a bunch for running this contest! As you know, I got busted up pretty bad back in April. Two surgeries later, I'm back in the saddle again! Just got cleared to ride this week! Took the 87'VR out for a spin or two. (Much to the horror of my wife!) I have been posting from time to time on the forum, could probably post more, I'll see what I can do about that. Still have the 87'VR and 89'VR. I made it to your Maint. Day this year, by car sporting a cane! I didn't make it to the WNY Posse's rally this year, just had the second surgery at the time. Still a little shook up about the passing of Bongo Bobby, gonna' miss that man! My brothers and I, (mostly my two brothers) did the interior of the shop this summer. Insulation, walls, ceiling, lighting, and HD electric. I am hoping to finish the painting and final touches by spring. My company offered me a "early retirement" buyout. A chunk of money and free Insurance until full retirement. I'm interested, but haven't made up my mind yet. I got a birthday coming up next week, whooo hooo, free coffee at Denny's...finally! I hope all is well with you and your family, and thanks again for posting this contest! Earl and Jean.
  4. Hey James, Although the VMAX heads are not a direct bolt on swap on a Second Gen. do to the fact that the heads are part of the connection to the frame of the engine, unlike the First Gen. Venture and VMAX. The larger Intake and Exhaust Valves of the VMAX Head can be installed in the Second Gen. Head with some machining of the Intake and Exhaust Ports. I am not going to say that you won't see an increase in power by installing just the VMAX Cams in a set of Second Gen. Heads, BUT to get the full effect of those hotter cams you need to increase the amount of air flow through the stock Second Gen. Heads, and enlarging the Intake and Exhaust Ports is the way to do that. There are a few VMAX Performance shops that can do that work for you. A set of exhausts with less restricted air flow would also benefit that head work. Also the Carbs. being rejetted would be another power increase to explore. If I remember correctly, the rear differential in the Hannigan is a late 90's to mid 2000 Ford T-Bird independent rear suspension which can have several Ring and Pinion combinations. The proper set-up of a ring and pinion in a rear differential is not a "shade tree mechanic" project though. Not only would you be buying the ring and pinion gear set, but the install as well. The cheap way to do this upgrade would be to purchase a set of used VMAX heads for the Cams, HD springs, and Intake and Exhaust Valves. Remove the engine from your bike, remove the stock heads, have them machined, Install the Cams, Springs, and Intake and Exhaust Valves, reinstall the heads, and reinstall the engine. While the engine is out I would have the Carb. work done as well. The replacement of the ring and pinion would require the differential to be removed, a new ring and pinion purchased, and the set-up of said ring and pinion, and the reinstall of the Differential. A set of Harley exhaust mufflers would be a good starting point for the exhaust. I believe JOHN at PCW Racing would be an excellent contact for the Head Machining, and he MIGHT be able to supply the donor heads for you as well. John does EXCELLENT work, but it is not a hobby for him, he has a business so therefor you will be paying for his knowledge and skill. His number is: 518-346-7203. Mentioning my name and the fact that you are a VR.ORG Member will give you street credit for sure. He MAY even know of someone that can do the Differential work for you as well. Now for the reality check here James, you will most definitely be into this project for several thousand dollars EVEN if you pull the engine and Differential yourself! So you need to ask yourself this question, "is it better to upgrade my RSV or purchase a Goldwing"? Only YOU can answer that question! This next part, I only mention to give you some perspective. I have an 87'VR that has been "full tilt" modded, VMAX Heads, Shaved Block, Jetted Carbs. FJR Final Drive, 15" rear wheel and NOS. It is the fastest Venture in my area, BUT any solid running Yamaha R1 or FJR1300 will leave me in the dust above 140 MPH because of their 6 speed gearbox and more horsepower. Period! Am I sorry I put ALL of that time and money into my 87VR, not on your life! I'll be 64 next week, and frankly the times my Venture sees 145 MPH are MUCH fewer and farther between than they were just 10 years ago! I personally hand built my motorcycle to be an extension of myself, and I wouldn't trade that memory of that project for the world! BUT if I just wanted to pull my trailer to go camping, I might have considered purchasing a WING!! Just sayin' James! These are my thoughts, for what they are worth. Earl
  5. Dear Jeff, I just saw this, and both Jean and I wanted you to know that you are in our prayers, my friend. I personally wasn't present when my father passed, and to this day, it is one of my greatest regrets. You were a good son to your father Jeff, and I am sure that you brought him great comfort at the end. Prayers sent to you and your family from Jean and myself. Earl and Jean.
  6. I have only had the privilege of working on ONE SVTC so far. It came to me indirectly after visiting our local Yamaha Dealer which happens to be 1 block from my house. The owner, (Not a VR.ORG member) had a few complaints that were not addressed by the dealer, but because of my relationship with said dealer, the bike was referred to me. I bled the brake and clutch fluid master cylinders and was surprised to find a large amount of moisture and actual solid particles in both the brake and clutch fluid. It also appears that the large amount of heat generated by this particular engine shortens the life of the clutch fluid in my opinion. After the fluid flush, both the braking action and clutch shifting improved greatly. Of course, your results may vary. Because of my very limited exposure to these new machines, I have not been able to create a list of known issues...YET. But as time goes on, I hope to be able to comment on the pluses and minuses of this new breed of Venture. I did have the opportunity to take this bike for a short ride. I was impressed with the center of gravity change vrs. the RSV, the saddle to ground distance was to my liking, (I have a 36" inseam so usually I can ride ANY "TALL" bike) and was very impressed with the torque of this engine. Also, the vibration was much less than I expected, BUT it is still a V Twin. I did get trapped at a signal light for an extended period of time and found that the heat generated by this engine at a standstill was much greater than on a First or Second Gen. These are ALL newby observations as I have yet to go to my local Yamaha Dealer and test ride the new generation SVTC. Because I "tinker" with every vehicle I have ever owned, I would not hesitate to change out brake and clutch fluids, switch engine oil, and do everything in my power to customize my vehicle to make it perform to my liking. Because of the relationship I have with my local Yamaha Dealer, he knows that I will take the time to make minor adjustments and change fluids that can't be done at the dealer under the normal Warranty Coverage. The owner of the bike had to pay for this "extra" service, but because the owner was very happy with the outcome, he will return to the dealer with a much better attitude for his regular scheduled maintenance under warranty. This keeps the owner happy, and is why the dealer refers these bikes to me. The point I am trying to make here is DON'T ASSUME that because your bike is "NEW", that everything is as it should be. These motorcycles are MASS PRODUCED, by human beings, and the person doing the work on your bike that day during assembly may NOT be putting 100% effort into their work for whatever reason. If you are having an issue with an area of your motorcycle, DO THE BASICS FIRST! Try changing fluids, make those minor adjustments, adapt your riding style to get the most out of this major investment you have made in this new machine. Congrats to everyone who have embraced this new technology in the evolution of the Venture, I wish you many, many miles of enjoyment! Earl
  7. Hey Darren, With 40K on your stock clutch, you have done better than many! This lets me know that you have a good riding style as far as your clutch usage is concerned. Good for you. The reason you didn't get any clutch slippage (in my opinion) is because you were riding at night, where the temps are in the low to mid 60's at most, and you were riding one up. If it was daytime, 2 up, fully loaded with temps in the 80's or even higher, I think you would see more slippage. I am off to PT now, but when I return I will send you a PM with a link for the install and other options. Thanks Darren for letting me help you with this project! Earl
  8. Hey Darren, First off, thank you everyone for the kind words about my Clutch Kits, as always, it is greatly appreciated. Now, about that clutch! Darren, you didn't mention how many miles you have on your current clutch. I personally would not take my motorcycle AND my wife on a multi-hundred mile road trip with an "iffy" clutch, but that's just me. Even if you manage to "limp" thru the entire trip, and make it back home, your riding enjoyment is going to be diminished to the point where it might have been more fun to take a Greyhound Bus instead of your Venture. I would save the money of a second oil change and put that money into either the Barnett kit or one of my kits. The oil that you have put into your scoot is not causing this issue, the weak Clutch Diaphragm spring is. I absolutely guarantee you that I can have clutch parts to your home by mid week and will personally walk you thru the clutch replacement over the phone. This project can be done on the side stand and you won't have to do an oil change when you are done. This will be the best two hours you will spend working on your motorcycle. Now for the back story. From the late 70's to the early 80's Yamaha used the 6 compression spring clutch system on all of the inline fours and the MKI Ventures from 1983 to 1985. In 1986 they went to the single Clutch Diaphragm Spring, which at the time was quite the performance upgrade. By removing the unsprung weight of the larger pressure plate and the 6 compression springs off of the end of the crankshaft buys you several extra horsepower to the rear wheel. This next bit is my own personal opinion. The Barnett Clutch Kit is an excellent product, it solves the issue of the slipping clutch, and lasts a long time. The only issue I have with the Barnett Clutch is installing older technology on a 21st century motorcycle. The Barnett Clutch is a direct copy of the 6 compression spring clutch Yamaha used on their motorcycles 35 years ago, and they charge 3 times the price for that unit. By installing a stronger HD Clutch Diaphragm Spring in your Clutch you will solve the slipping clutch issue, and you won't lose any horsepower in the process. Like I said, just my personal opinion. Even if you purchase the Barnett kit, I would be happy to walk you thru the install because I want you to have a wonderful time on your trip, and not sweat your slipping clutch wondering if you are going to make it home or not. If I can help you with parts, or a link to the install of either kit, just let me know. Earl
  9. I too made it home safely as well. Wonderful time! The somewhat smaller group this year lended itself to a lot more time to have some excellent conversations with some new, and some old friends! When the group is larger, it's hard to have "Quality Time" with anyone because of the volume of people. This was not the case this year. Thank you everyone who attended for your kindness and concern and for uplifting my spirit during these trying times in my life. I can't tell you how much I appreciated your friendship over this weekend. Earl
  10. Hey Peter, Welcome to the forum! Since this scoot is new to you, I would suggest that you go back to basics and verify ALL of the perishable items on this bike first. I would install a fresh set of plugs gapped correctly, The K&N Air Filter Upgrade would be on my personal list, verify that you don't have a brake caliper dragging, check (and maintain) the correct tire pressure on both tires as well. Verify that you have a decent amount of brake pad left in each caliper, it doesn't do any good to go faster if you can't stop the bike when you are done going fast. Try a few tankfuls of fresh gas with one ounce of Seafoam per gallon to clean the "corn syrup" out of the float bowls. Bang for the buck wise, the VMAX Final Drive Swap is an excellent upgrade. The last thing I want to mention is in no way meant to insult your riding style BUT if you want to see 115 MPH on a Second Gen. then you need to be cranking on the throttle to rev limiter from 2nd gear on up! This is not a big twin with gobs of torque, this is more like an "Angry Mosquito" that doesn't reach the sweet spot of the power band until 4000 RPMs up. You can enlarge that sweet spot with the DYNATEK ignition system, but care must be taken when using the enhanced rev limiter. Everything I have mentioned here could be added/replaced on your bike for about 1K +/- depending on where you shop. Recamming a Second Gen. with VMAX Cams and adding the bigger Carbs. is going to run you 5K for a 10 MPH increase in top end! Weather or not that is worth it to you is a question only you can answer. A 1300cc motorcycle is NEVER going to be an 1800cc motorcycle just the same as you don't use a guard dog to hunt with. Perhaps this would be an excellent trade in on the motorcycle that would do the job for you without any mods at all, just a thought. Although I would hate to see you miss out on all of the fun you will have on this forum if you go and buy some other kind of scoot. Stick around, check out your bike, make sure it's as they say in the Army, "Being ALL it can be" and report back with what you discover. Again, welcome to the Forum Peter, don't be a stranger. Earl
  11. You Gents are WAY to kind! Thank you very much for the kind words! I PM'ed Tim, and if he chooses to purchase a Bucket Tool from Jeff or borrow the tool from Rich, there would be absolutely NO hard feelings whatsoever. I recently posted the Loan of the Shim Kit in the "Member Vendor" section of the Classifieds, Everyone is welcome to use it, Here's the link: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?141286-Valve-adjustment-shim-kit-loan-with-valve-cover-gaskets! To Tim, I would be happy to help you with this project, and to everyone else, Thank you very much for your kind words, due to recent events, your kindness means the world to me! Earl
  12. I do loan out my Shim Kit to the VR.ORG members. Here's how it works. For $95.00 via PayPal, I send you my Shim Kit that has the Bucket Tool and every other tool you will need to do the Valve Adjustment along with 80+ assorted shims and a set of Genuine Yamaha Valve Cover Gaskets by USPS Insured Priority Mail with $300.00 Ins. I allow 2 full weeks for the Valve Adjustment, (three weekends) It's not a big deal if you need the Shim Kit a bit longer, you just need to let me know. If you use a shim from my kit, you replace it with the shim you take from your bike. (size doesn't matter) If on the off chance you would accidentally break the Bucket Tool, you would do the right thing and replace it. (The only time this has ever happened is when someone used the starter motor to rotate the engine to the next valve, one time) Even though there are 80 shims in the kit, there maybe that one odd ball shim that you will need to buy or trade for from the dealer. Be prepared for this. If at the end of your adjustment you have extra shims, and want to donate them to the shim kit, that would be great. When you have finished, you will return the Shim Kit to me via USPS Insured Priority Mail Service with $300.00 Ins. on the package. If you are OK with the above terms, then a PayPal Payment of $95.00 to earlfharrell@atlanticbb.net gets the Shim Kit and the gaskets shipped right out. This is a "first come, first served" arrangement. Thanks for viewing my ad. skydoc_17
  13. Does your First Gen. VR have that “pesky” coolant leak up by the front tire, well here’s the fix! A new o’ring and an upgraded stainless steel allen cap screw and S.S. Lock washer. Just install, and no more leak! The price is $15.00 with shipping included to the USA, out of the country will be actual ​shipping cost only. This kit comes with complete written instructions, what a deal! I accept paypal and checks! Thanks for viewing my ad! skydoc_17
  14. Is your First Gen. VR getting less than average gas mileage? Are your exhaust pipes sooty? Can you smell gas after your bike has been running for a while? Well, i have the fix for you. Reshim your main jet needles to lean out the air/fuel mixture. This will increase gas mileage,and clean up those exhaust pipes. Others have re-shimmed the main jet needles with extra s.s. Washers, but this just adds weight to the end of the carb. Slider, slowing down the slider action and making throttle response “sluggish”. By using a nylon shim that has been precision machined, there is no additional weight to the end of the slider. This kit comes with complete written instructions, and can be done in about an hour using basic hand tools. The cost is $15.00 with shipping included in the usa. Out of the country shipping is actual shipping cost only! I accept paypal and checks! thanks for viewing my ad! skydoc_17
  15. Oops! My Bad! Thanks Chuck for bringing that to my attention. Here's a front Rim for a VTX: https://www.ebay.com/itm/H-HONDA-VTX-1300-C-2007-OEM-FRONT-WHEEL-FRONT-ROTOR/143152949520?hash=item215494a910:g:xSkAAOSwI-FceH9z Earl.
  16. Hey Rich, I'm real sorry to hear about your family members getting busted up! Here's a few parts I found, Hope this helps! Front forks and triple tree: https://www.ebay.com/itm/04-09-Honda-Vtx1300r-Vtx-1300-Front-Forks-Shock-Suspension-Set-Fork-2005-05-06/113741212246?fits=Model%3AVTX1300R%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item1a7b812a56:g:y1MAAOSwDYtc0uBl:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!16635!US!-1 Front tire: https://www.ebay.com/itm/04-HONDA-VTX1300-VTX-1300-OEM-REAR-WHEEL-RIM-HUB-ROTOR-TIRE-GOOD/381758736115?epid=1324474252&hash=item58e29806f3:g:HW0AAOSwuXtazVAZ Front Fender: https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-HONDA-VTX-1300-R-2003-OEM-FRONT-FENDER/113729924809?hash=item1a7ad4eec9:g:D20AAOSw4C5cw4SM
  17. This last winter was especially hard for us here in Central Pennsylvania. Piles of snow, sub-zero temps and as I have gotten older, the novelty of that whole snow blower, snow plow thing has worn off to say the least. What was once fun, has turned into a chore. Wednesday, two weeks ago in the evening, I was out on the back patio deck shaking my head in disbelief as I watched my first ride of the new season turn into a dash to put my bike away as the rain popped up out of nowhere. I came in off of the deck soaking wet, and started down the only three steps inside my split level home only to find my feet shooting out from under me and doing the "butt bounce" down all three stairs. I got up, dusted myself off and went to prepare for bedtime. The next morning, I was stiff as a board, and sore in the center of my back just below my shoulder blades. Being the trooper I am, I grudgingly got dressed and went off to work. Around 9 am I was moving through the factory where I work and one minute I am walking, and the next minute I'm crumpled on the ground with NO feeling in my legs. A few people came running over to me, (thinking I had had a heart attack) only to find out I was unable to get up and couldn't feel a thing from my mid back to my toes. A phone call later, I was on my way to the hospital via ambulance. XRAYS and an MRI reveled my L1/L2 vertebra had ruptured, puncturing the sheath around my spinal cord and had shut off any signals to my legs. Sever days went by before a "special" specialist could be brought in from nearby Pittsburgh to do a surgery on me. All went well for the most part, disc removal and sheath repair. I'm home now but will be looking at 12 weeks of PT and rehab "as my legs have forgotten how to be legs" as my doctor put it. I bring all of this information to your attention not for sympathy, but to remind each and every one of us that a moment of carelessness can change your plans radically, and possibly permanently! Be careful out there in all that you do. I found out the hard way that "I don't bounce as well as I used to". It seems I will have some extra time on my hands for the next few weeks. It would be my pleasure to answer any questions about any issues you are having with your motorcycles. I don't normally have this "extra time" to spend with my brothers and sisters here on the forum but as it turns out, I have just got an opening in my schedule! Thanks for letting me rant, Earl
  18. Hey Jack, These are all excellent replies! There are quite a few factors that will effect gas mileage. At one time, I had my Needle Shim Mod Kit in the "Old" Classifieds, but when the forum switched to the new format, All of my kits were lost. I have placed a few of the more popular kits in the new "Member Vendor" Classifieds, but I have not had a chance to add the Needle Shim Mod. I do still make that kit though. If you do shim your Main jet Needles on your own, Stay away from stacking S.S. washers on the Main Jet Needles. The slider response is drastically reduced, and the crispness of the throttle completely disappears. I machine a single shim from Virgin Nylon, and supply complete written instructions as well as PM and phone support for the install. I do want to mention that the Needle Shim Mod is NOT a "Magic Bullet"! If your tires are under inflated, you have a dirty air filter, your Idle mixture Screws are mis-adjusted, and Your Carb. Sync.... Isn't, then 4 little Nylon Washers are not going to save the day MPG wise, no matter where you get them from. If you would like some real help working thru the issues related to the Needle Shim Mod and the adjustments that would go with it for the best performance then please feel free to PM me. Earl
  19. Hey Ken, First off, Merry Christmas, my friend! Seldom have I heard of a timing chain becoming so loose that it created a noise like you are describing. I have seen more than one water pump impeller get noisy, and fail. Since the water pump replacement would be a job that could be done at home, mind you not cheap! Before I would take that bike to a dealer and have them remove the engine and replace the timing chain, I personally would replace the water pump and see if the noise subsides. With that being said, if it is the water pump, I have a noisy water pump in my 89'VR that has been that way since I have owned it. (40K miles) Keep an eye on the coolant level, watch the temp gauge, and turn the radio up a bit more, and all will be well. To be honest, it would be cheaper to pick up a used motor than have a dealer address the timing chain issue. The timing chain has a tensioner on it, if there was that much slack in the timing chain, you would see it in the performance of the bike. With the water pump, a wobbly impeller will eventually take out the seal, which will cause coolant to dribble out of the "weep hole" at the bottom of the water pump. That's why I said watch you coolant level, and the temp gauge. You will see signs of a water pump failure long before it finally fails. Please keep in mind that I have never seen your bike, and I can't hear the noise you are describing from my house! My comments are based on working on over 500 of these motors. Your mileage may vary, and this is just my opinion. I personally think that a "wait and see" attitude would work fine in this scenario. Earl
  20. I saw this on YouTube today, and thought you would get a kick out of it! It's 5 minutes long, but worth it. This young man's YouTube Channel has some very good backyard repairs of some common issues with his autos, and a few I have converted to use on my motorcycles. Without any further ado, here ya' go: Happy Holidays to everyone from Jean and I. Earl
  21. Hey Barry, We all change, It's a fact of life. With that being said, it would be a shame to loose your thoughtful posts, and your insight into this hobby/passion that we all share. If it is due to the cost of the membership, I'd be more than happy to "donate" the cost of your membership just to have the pleasure of your continued contribution to the family we call VentureRider.Org. As it is with ALL of the members here on VR.ORG, it would be better to hear from you every once in a while, then not at all! I'll contact Don this afternoon, and make arrangements for your membership to be extended another year, just to have the pleasure of your continued wisdom in the new year. I consider this an investment in MY future, and the future of all of the members that read your posts. Here's hoping that 2019 brings you all of the satisfaction that you yearn for, and that you will share these new adventures with us all. Respectfully, Earl
  22. WOW Rich, what a nice collection! I love the "rustic" look of some of the home made ones. Being a tool maker, I have made quite a few knives over the years. In recent years, I have gotten into "Bone and Flint" knives just to get out of my comfort zone. Below are a few examples of my most recent creations. Buck horn handles, hand knapped blades, and on the one knife, I hammered a Buffalo Head Nickel to fit the butt of that knife. The assembly of this type of knife is very different than a metal blade. You could by no means call either of these knives a "work knife", or even a daily carrier, but believe it or not, they are razor sharp, and very durable. Alas, a bit "fancy" for every day carry. On another note, I was cleaning my .480 Raging Bull over the weekend and thought you might enjoy a pic of that weapon as well. I apologize for getting off topic with stone knives, and Raging Bulls! Earl
  23. DO YOU STILL HAVE 25 PLUS YEAR OLD STOCK, RUBBER BRAKE AND CLUTCH LINES ON YOUR FIRST GEN. VR? DID YOU EVER WISH THAT YOUR FRONT RIGHT BRAKE LEVER WORKED BOTH FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS, AND THE FOOT PEDAL WORKED THE REAR BRAKE CALIPER ONLY? WELL, HERE IS THE ANSWER YOU HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR! I AM OFFERING 4 CUSTOM MADE STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES THAT ARE KEVLAR LINED, WITH ALL NEW BANJO BOLTS, AND ALL NEW CRUSHWASHERS. PLUS A MATCHING SET OF S.S. UPPER AND LOWER CLUTCH LINES! ONE SPECIALLY MACHINED VMAX FRONT BRAKE SPLITTER, A POLISHED S.S. ADAPTER BRACKET FOR THE FRONT BRAKE SPLITTER, AND THE BLOCK OFF BOLTS FOR THE REAR MASTER CYLINDER AND PROPORTIONING VALVE! PLUS COMPLETE INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS! THIS S.S. LINE SET WILL REPLACE EVERY RUBBER LINE ON YOUR BIKE WITH S.S. KEVLAR LINED LINES WITH ALL OF THE HARDWARE YOU NEED! WHAT A DEAL! THE COST IS $300.00 WITH FREE SHIPPING TO THE LOWER 48. INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING IS ACTUAL SHIPPING COSTS ONLY. I ACCEPT PAYPAL AND CHECKS! (MKI OWNERS NEED TWO ADDITIONAL S.S. LINES FOR THE ANTI-DIVE VALVES ON THE FRONT FORKS, THE COST FOR THOSE LINES IS AN ADDITIONAL $50.00) THANKS FOR VIEWING MY AD. EARL (skydoc_17)
  24. If your old, glass tube fuse box is shot I have the answer for you. I have compiled every item you will need to change your tired, old glass tube fuse box over to a modern ATC type fuse box. Not only does this ATC fuse box have an extra fuse slot for that set of running lights you want to add, or a new GPS, but it comes with two terminal blocks for switched power and one for battery ground. You can add many accessories, all protected by a fuse with this kit. This kit comes complete with every part you will need plus detailed written instructions and an electrical diagram. There is no soldering needed to install this fuse box upgrade! The price is $75.00 with free 48 state USA shipping. Out of country buyers will pay actual shipping costs only! I accept PayPal and Checks! Thanks for viewing my ad! Earl (skydoc_17)
  25. When you roll on the throttle of your First Gen. MKII (1986 to 1993) does the clutch slip? When you "briskly" go from first to second gear does your clutch slip? Do you ride 2 up often? Are you trying to pull a trailer and is your clutch slipping? Are you thinking about paying $300.00 plus the install for a Barnett Clutch, well think again! The stock Yamaha Clutch is a high quality part and will last up to 100,000 miles. The problem is not your clutch, it's the Clutch Basket Diaphragm Spring that has failed. So here's the fix! Install an aftermarket, thicker Clutch Diaphragm Spring, and Full Clutch Disc and never worry about that First Gen. MKII clutch again! The heavy duty clutch diaphragm spring puts 25% more clamping force on the clutch discs than the stock First Gen. MKII Clutch Spring. Here's my deal, you get a brand new .070 thick Heavy Duty Clutch Diaphragm Spring, (Name Brand) a new full size clutch disc to replace the half disc, and a brand new, Genuine Yamaha replacement Clutch Cover Gasket, everything you need to do this install for $115.00 including shipping in the USA!!! Out of the country buyers will pay actual shipping costs only! If you have some miles on your current set of Friction Discs, or they are 20 plus years old, I will throw in the remaining 7 Genuine Yamaha Friction Discs or the 7 Steel Clutch Plates for $105.00 a set each, making this upgrade basically, a brand new, better that stock clutch! I will include complete written instructions, and I have a picture file that can be downloaded! What a deal!! This upgrade can be done in a few hours, doesn't require the removal of the Clutch Basket, can be done with a 10mm and 12mm wrench and an allen wrench, and a pair of needle nosed pliers and side cutters and you will not loose a drop of engine oil! I accept Paypal and Checks! Thanks for viewing my ad. Earl (skydoc_17)
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