FaceDeAce

Interested …. Where do I find this adapter?

Same issue on my ‘84 been resurrecting. No spring, no washer on the oil filter. I went into my parts bin. For the washer, I used a standard 20mm flat washer. For the spring, I grabbed a piece of stiff brazing rod and made a 21mm ID spring. Eyeballed the cut the length of the spring and based on depth of where the filter is supposed to sit in the cover and when set against the engine oil port.

Saga goes on. Decided to drain and clean the tank. Removed the level gauge. Between a powerball on the end of a pressure washer and a siphone hose - wow a lot of scale and crap came out of that tank. So much so that I could see daylight through a few spots in the bottom, LoL. Sealed the bottom of the tank on the inside with a small brush taped to a long stick and a few tubes of JB weld mixed up. Clean tank and no more leaks. After some more tuning using the software the Bike runs really well now, a roaring torque machine. So much power now that I am having other issues (clutch slip).

Some ideas: 1. drive by Tach. If you’ve ridden the bike much you would have developed and feel and know what rpm is at different standard posted speeds for the roads you frequented. 2. drive by smartphone. Most map apps on phones now give speed indication.

Marcarl, thanks for your t thoughts on this (and the other topics. 👍). I know the mixed concoction of other oils were not ideal for this. That stuff is gone and it has proper motorcycle oil (for wet clutch) in it now, the 20-50 just put in should clear up the issue, if it is/was oil related. I will check that teeny tiny hole in the master cylinder. If there is one, it is definitely plugged. Still do not understand why it is there though. . if the oil does not have to be drained to check the clutch pack, that’s great. I’ll pull the cover Monday evening and check the set for wear or glazing.

PS: there are no other clutch problems such as creeping or sluggish engagement. The lever hand pressure is good and has a nice reasonable feel to it. The issue is only clutch slippage under high power condition.

Been surfing through the old threads looking for a good one to bring forward. Found some stuff but to summarize my issue, decided to post anew. the bike: resurrected 1984 venture royale the problem: bike is running better and better each ride, and getting stronger! It was great for about 150 miles of test rides. Now recently when I really lean into the throttle when it gets to 3500 rpm range and engine torques up, the clutch slips. Back off throttle and it grabs again. Normal driving is fine. Only happens when tapping into the high engine power condition. possible causes, and questions. Please comment: 1. The bike is showing 42,000 km on the odo. I do not know if this is 42k or 142k or 242k … I have been thinking of replacing the clutch springs, as are cheap$ to do. Does this bike have the 6 coil springs or the silly diaphragm spring? DoI need to drain the oil before taking the clutch over off? 2. For the first while and rounds of testing to get then engine cleaned up I just used whatever half oil jugs I had around the shop. Mostly car/truck gas and diesel synthetic oils. Now that it is clean and running great I did do a did final oil change a couple days ago with Dino 20w50 motorcycle oil. The clutch may not have liked the other oil. I do not have much of any runtime yet with the current oil to see if the slippage will clean up just from the oil change. 3. When I started on this basket case it had no clutch fluid, none, completely empty and gunked from years of sitting. Filled and purged with fresh fluid(dot3). I did not remove or clean the slave. Perhaps it is gunked internally and sticking. I also do not know if I bled the system properly when filling. Added fluid to the handle and pumped. Opening/closing the bleeder with each pump. There may be air but I doubt it. 4. One of the threads mentioned two holes in bottom of the master cylinder. I see one hole that is through and through it can see the cylinder moving and picking up fluid. There is a second half-drilled holed next to it. That hole is not through and nothing can be seen in it nor any fluid going in or out of it. Please explain this further/clearer. As am wondering if I need to drill it through? as a start ….. thanks folks. This is a great venture community. Looking forward to some pointers to sort this out, and hopefully without the spend of replacing the clutch pack. Hoping is something else.

Ok thanks! I’ve no idea what is in there for springs (oem or progressive). What would be the volume for the progressives? 350 ml ? I need to drain the right fork. The anti dive piston on that side leaks a drop of fork oil out of the weep hole when front brake is applied. Definitely fork oil, not brake fluid. I suspect there is just an o-ring in there needing to replace. So planning to take that apart. Looks like a 15 minute job.

There is no lock wash or mid washer on this bike, like the picture. Just the two ring-nuts Been storming here for a week. Finally got out for a test ride yesterday. yes, yup, exactly as you said. Confirmed! If too tight the bike wanders on its own a lot and is difficult to drive, especially at low speed. Amazing how a small tweak makes such a big difference. Up at highway speed still got mind if it’s own. Tighter did not fix the problem, still gets skittish ant 75+, and actually created new problem. I will loosen the steering head bearing back to where it was, so the bike will self centre and not be a chore to drive. It has to be something else. Also have clutch slipping now under hard acceleration. I will search and look through reviving an old thread on that.

Ok thanks for the tips folks. So far I have checked and adjusted tire pressures to the max sidewall rating of 40 psi. the steering post bearing was tough to get to but with a long punch and some contortionisms I managed to tighten it. Got about a 1/4 turn on it. There is no play and the steering is now a bit stiff but not so much so to be worried about wrecking the bearing. I have not looked at rear linkage bushing yet. Though doubt I’ll find anything there. The bike has only 42,000 Km on it. Was abandoned in the shrubs for a long time. I’ll try some test runs this evening with the pumped up tires and tighter post.

Front tire is at 40 psi. Rear tire was at 34ish, I set it to sidewall max 40psi. Haven’t run up the speed yet to see if this made any difference. This evening I looked at and tried to tighten the steering stem nut(s). Boy. They sure didn’t make some parts simple to get to to adjust did they. It seems like it could be fine. There is just a teeny weeny tin amount of play. Barely visible when tugging and pushing on front tire with it off the ground. How much is too much?

I did not spend much time attempting to balance the tires. In my experience mc tires rarely need balancing. When I suspended using the shafts (off the bike) for quick check there was little to no movement. What I am referring to is the feeling that the front tire is squireling around a bit at the higher speeds. There is no vibration or bouncing that would lead me to think a balance problem. Thanks. I will have a look at the neck bearing tightness and any other pivot points. If those check out, what else could it be? Tire pressure maybe, or just a crappy fairing windstream design? It does have quite a tall windshield on it. I may try taking that off and go for a speed run to see if it makes any difference.

Update …. And any troubleshooting tips are much appreciated. The bike is smooth and rock solid up to 60-65 mph. At about 75 mph it starts to shimmy/wobble up front. I am uncertain where to start with this. It could be that where were fair winds acting on the windshield and fairing bucking me around or that I am a light 180lbs all sweaty and not heavy enough to hold the bike down. what else could cause this that I should look at? It is super stable until 70-75 mph, then it shimmy’s around. Scared to go any faster to see if it smooths out or gets worse beyond 75.

This is what I ended up doing. Keeping it simple.

This is an '84 venture royal with the air compressor, air ride system. There does not appear to be simple air valve or screw cap on top of the fork tubes to pour in the top.

I have an o-ring leak on the anti-dive unit which is dripping brake fluid. To take that off and fix it, means loss of fork oil. So figured I would just drain the forks and refill with new fluid. Been searching around and looked in the manual. The only thing I want to do is drain the fork oil and refill with new. Manual goes over steps to completely remove and disassemble the fork tubes - not what I am intending. Searching the site there are alot of threads about changing seals and springs. Not what I am intending. All I want to do is drain the oil and refill. I see what looks like a drain screw on the bottom rear of each fork tube. What I need to know is for refilling. How do I get fresh oil in?

Popping in the exhaust, backfire, is a symptom of a rich mixture. Unburned fuel in the exhaust ignites in the pipe when it reaches enough oxygen, towards the end of the pipe. Adjusting the screws richens or leans the mixture. So what is happening while you are doing this is exactly what is expected to happen as it is adjusted from a rich condition to leaner setting. The smoke and/or black oil … is just the build up of soot and ash from a long term rich condition being burnt off and blown out as you lean the mixture and the pipe gets hotter. Also exactly what is expected to happen as you lean it out. all good. Carry-on.

The Kruz set arrived. Installed. the front tire change was fairly eventful. The rear tire change was a terrible experience. First, had to take front off to get the back end up to be able to take the rear wheel out. Then upon taking the old tire off I found it with layers of slime and mold and lord knows what else growing and goo-ing off in there. Cleaning up the rear rim was an absolutely gross experience. once cleaned that rim had lots of pitting corrosion along the bead lines. I flat filed what I could to knock out and blend the damage. on mounting the new rear tire to that rim, I first applied a liberal layer of ultra black RTV to the bead lines. Spooned the tire on. Then applied a liberal layer of NAPA bead sealant to the tire and rim edge. Aired up to seat the beads and left overnight. to my surprise, that tire is sealed and holds pressure. All good and great! have since taken the bike out for test ride(s). The Kruz tires are fantastic. Smooth riding. Lots of grip confidence in the corners. thanks for the recommendation, and I can definitely +1 on the Kenda Kurtz set for both a quality confidence inspiring ride AND economical replacement price.

Update on the bike. It Runs! Buttttt like dominoes there is more to come hahaha. I purchased one of the Ignitech v88 units that are currently on eBay. Includes the proper harness 👍for the bike. It took what seems like forever to get here I did ALOT of online reading and figuring to come up with a set of tuning parameters that seem to work. There is a set of timing curves vs IAP chart in the manual on this site. I used that and the Ignitech online download manual along with some technical experience and logic to fill out the 10x10 table in the software and then uploaded that to the v8& TCI4. On the bike stand, super smooth and at Ron’s and steady idle. The first light was a total smoke gong show and am surprised the neighbours did not call in the fire trucks. Smoked up probably 2 blocks, LoL. After being parked for yearsNyears two of the four had rings stuck. So was burning ALOT of oil plus whatever was in the pipes from previous owners trying to get it to run. Since that first light-off, I have removed and totally cleaned all carbs, using ultrasonic cleaner. I have gone for test rides racking up about 200km, AND changed the fuel filter 3 times in those runs. there is definitely room for improvement on the timing map, and I am so so soooo happy with the Ignitech and the ability to do that. buuuut, before tuning - obviously have to get the fuel system cleaned up as the next priority. There is a lot of visible crud in the tank. I am trying to decide between removing the tank and shake-up cleaning it, or letting sleeping dogs lie and just keep a stash of fuel filters on hand for frequent changes until it stops running lean.

Has anyone ever shared their IgniTech configuration file for these bikes? I would like to get, so can compare that is in the box now vs someone else's

K-kool. I did not see anything strange or out of sorts on the frame on this one, yet. Ya, I have re-re and split cases on many a motorcycle and snowmobile and pwc. It tends to take me way more time removing an engine from such than it takes me to completely strip and rebuild the engine once it is out.

Great news. I have received the IgniTech black box. I have been thoroughly reviewing the bike harness, the harness that came with the TCIP4, and comparing the pinout functions to those on the 1984 wiring diagram on this site and the Sparker TCIP4 manual drawings. All the wires and pinouts check out on the harnesses. I have powered up the unit using test clips and connected it to my laptop to review the program that is in it and what adjustable parameters there are. Wow, there are lotsa parameters in there. Could be fun tuning .... or wrecking. Any tips or key parameter setpoints? Jiri supplied a "old venture.ign" file for reference and use. Sunday I will have some tinkering time available. This beast may fire for the first time in years n years n years. PS: tires are on order. Went with the Kenda Kruz set. Hope that is going to be more than sufficient for now.

Thank you KevinR. Exactly the type of info I needed. Ordered up a set of Kruz tires today.

Also FYI, I took a pointy metal pick to the old TCI circuit board just to see if the integrity of the components matched the visual indications. Yup, upon touch with the pick a bunch of them crumbled into chalk and fell off the board. Yeah, there is no fixing these things. Order an aftermarket box is the only solution.