FaceDeAce

Interested …. Where do I find this adapter?

Same issue on my ‘84 been resurrecting. No spring, no washer on the oil filter. I went into my parts bin. For the washer, I used a standard 20mm flat washer. For the spring, I grabbed a piece of stiff brazing rod and made a 21mm ID spring. Eyeballed the cut the length of the spring and based on depth of where the filter is supposed to sit in the cover and when set against the engine oil port.

Saga goes on. Decided to drain and clean the tank. Removed the level gauge. Between a powerball on the end of a pressure washer and a siphone hose - wow a lot of scale and crap came out of that tank. So much so that I could see daylight through a few spots in the bottom, LoL. Sealed the bottom of the tank on the inside with a small brush taped to a long stick and a few tubes of JB weld mixed up. Clean tank and no more leaks. After some more tuning using the software the Bike runs really well now, a roaring torque machine. So much power now that I am having other issues (clutch slip).

Some ideas: 1. drive by Tach. If you’ve ridden the bike much you would have developed and feel and know what rpm is at different standard posted speeds for the roads you frequented. 2. drive by smartphone. Most map apps on phones now give speed indication.

Marcarl, thanks for your t thoughts on this (and the other topics. 👍). I know the mixed concoction of other oils were not ideal for this. That stuff is gone and it has proper motorcycle oil (for wet clutch) in it now, the 20-50 just put in should clear up the issue, if it is/was oil related. I will check that teeny tiny hole in the master cylinder. If there is one, it is definitely plugged. Still do not understand why it is there though. . if the oil does not have to be drained to check the clutch pack, that’s great. I’ll pull the cover Monday evening and check the set for wear or glazing.

PS: there are no other clutch problems such as creeping or sluggish engagement. The lever hand pressure is good and has a nice reasonable feel to it. The issue is only clutch slippage under high power condition.

Been surfing through the old threads looking for a good one to bring forward. Found some stuff but to summarize my issue, decided to post anew. the bike: resurrected 1984 venture royale the problem: bike is running better and better each ride, and getting stronger! It was great for about 150 miles of test rides. Now recently when I really lean into the throttle when it gets to 3500 rpm range and engine torques up, the clutch slips. Back off throttle and it grabs again. Normal driving is fine. Only happens when tapping into the high engine power condition. possible causes, and questions. Please comment: 1. The bike is showing 42,000 km on the odo. I do not know if this is 42k or 142k or 242k … I have been thinking of replacing the clutch springs, as are cheap$ to do. Does this bike have the 6 coil springs or the silly diaphragm spring? DoI need to drain the oil before taking the clutch over off? 2. For the first while and rounds of testing to get then engine cleaned up I just used whatever half oil jugs I had around the shop. Mostly car/truck gas and diesel synthetic oils. Now that it is clean and running great I did do a did final oil change a couple days ago with Dino 20w50 motorcycle oil. The clutch may not have liked the other oil. I do not have much of any runtime yet with the current oil to see if the slippage will clean up just from the oil change. 3. When I started on this basket case it had no clutch fluid, none, completely empty and gunked from years of sitting. Filled and purged with fresh fluid(dot3). I did not remove or clean the slave. Perhaps it is gunked internally and sticking. I also do not know if I bled the system properly when filling. Added fluid to the handle and pumped. Opening/closing the bleeder with each pump. There may be air but I doubt it. 4. One of the threads mentioned two holes in bottom of the master cylinder. I see one hole that is through and through it can see the cylinder moving and picking up fluid. There is a second half-drilled holed next to it. That hole is not through and nothing can be seen in it nor any fluid going in or out of it. Please explain this further/clearer. As am wondering if I need to drill it through? as a start ….. thanks folks. This is a great venture community. Looking forward to some pointers to sort this out, and hopefully without the spend of replacing the clutch pack. Hoping is something else.

Ok thanks! I’ve no idea what is in there for springs (oem or progressive). What would be the volume for the progressives? 350 ml ? I need to drain the right fork. The anti dive piston on that side leaks a drop of fork oil out of the weep hole when front brake is applied. Definitely fork oil, not brake fluid. I suspect there is just an o-ring in there needing to replace. So planning to take that apart. Looks like a 15 minute job.

There is no lock wash or mid washer on this bike, like the picture. Just the two ring-nuts Been storming here for a week. Finally got out for a test ride yesterday. yes, yup, exactly as you said. Confirmed! If too tight the bike wanders on its own a lot and is difficult to drive, especially at low speed. Amazing how a small tweak makes such a big difference. Up at highway speed still got mind if it’s own. Tighter did not fix the problem, still gets skittish ant 75+, and actually created new problem. I will loosen the steering head bearing back to where it was, so the bike will self centre and not be a chore to drive. It has to be something else. Also have clutch slipping now under hard acceleration. I will search and look through reviving an old thread on that.

Ok thanks for the tips folks. So far I have checked and adjusted tire pressures to the max sidewall rating of 40 psi. the steering post bearing was tough to get to but with a long punch and some contortionisms I managed to tighten it. Got about a 1/4 turn on it. There is no play and the steering is now a bit stiff but not so much so to be worried about wrecking the bearing. I have not looked at rear linkage bushing yet. Though doubt I’ll find anything there. The bike has only 42,000 Km on it. Was abandoned in the shrubs for a long time. I’ll try some test runs this evening with the pumped up tires and tighter post.

Front tire is at 40 psi. Rear tire was at 34ish, I set it to sidewall max 40psi. Haven’t run up the speed yet to see if this made any difference. This evening I looked at and tried to tighten the steering stem nut(s). Boy. They sure didn’t make some parts simple to get to to adjust did they. It seems like it could be fine. There is just a teeny weeny tin amount of play. Barely visible when tugging and pushing on front tire with it off the ground. How much is too much?

I did not spend much time attempting to balance the tires. In my experience mc tires rarely need balancing. When I suspended using the shafts (off the bike) for quick check there was little to no movement. What I am referring to is the feeling that the front tire is squireling around a bit at the higher speeds. There is no vibration or bouncing that would lead me to think a balance problem. Thanks. I will have a look at the neck bearing tightness and any other pivot points. If those check out, what else could it be? Tire pressure maybe, or just a crappy fairing windstream design? It does have quite a tall windshield on it. I may try taking that off and go for a speed run to see if it makes any difference.

Update …. And any troubleshooting tips are much appreciated. The bike is smooth and rock solid up to 60-65 mph. At about 75 mph it starts to shimmy/wobble up front. I am uncertain where to start with this. It could be that where were fair winds acting on the windshield and fairing bucking me around or that I am a light 180lbs all sweaty and not heavy enough to hold the bike down. what else could cause this that I should look at? It is super stable until 70-75 mph, then it shimmy’s around. Scared to go any faster to see if it smooths out or gets worse beyond 75.

This is what I ended up doing. Keeping it simple.

This is an '84 venture royal with the air compressor, air ride system. There does not appear to be simple air valve or screw cap on top of the fork tubes to pour in the top.