mechanic1

ok..thanks

Mbrood's suggesting is a good check if you have a compression tester like the TRW one like I have that has a two piece hose with an air chuck on the lower one and a can hook up shop air to it...just be ready for the engine to rotate when you apply pressure. If by doing this, you don't find an air "rush" by a valve...i.e. into the intake or exhaust...you can try this... you might try rotating the engine till it is to the locked up position and slightly backing it up.....mark the timing belt and belt pulleys on each cam and at the crank also so you can put it back later exactly as you have it now if necessary.....then with the belt removed...check and see which cam if locking it up or if it is the crank. I take it this is a dual cam engine...?

Ok, I got the switch off the brake lever.....I need to find the connector and check with an ohm meter....I assume it is somewhere down by the steering head...?

I know lot of folks on here swear by Seafoam and it is good stuff....but the absolute better dang stuff I have ever ran across is made by company named Conklin and is called...4Power....kind of hard to find and not cheap but it has worked for me when nothing else would.....never fouled any plugs on anything I've had.

So exactly how and when did the lock-up occur? ......was it running at the time or during or after being worked on? Any chance tranny is causing it? Or maybe eliminating that possibility short of taking it completely out? ....i.e. torque converter bolts?

Oh...ok....guess I need to get my glasses on and look at it good....lol....and it will come off without taking the whole right grip combo off?

Good info...but how do you get the front brake switch off without breaking it?

Front brakes work as do the rear....light works when rear is applied....think I may have found the problem. looks like the switch is sticking...got it coming out more now that it was when applied but still may not be enough. Thanks for the link to switch maintenance

.....when you are sure you don't have a bent valve....maybe an accessory like a/c compressor.....oil pump/distributor....?....and no marks on the tops of the pistons? ....is the oil pan off of it so you can see in the guts?

I guess that is true, but so far I have never had a problem with it running high temp. if anything is kind of on the cold side. The cooling fan will cycle on and off if it is very hot day and sitting in traffic but never got to hot yet.

Cool.....good to know

....hadn't thought of powder coating.....will it stick to aluminum? ...seen a lot of steel powder coated....was just thinking of aluminum cause of weight. 83 to 93...good, thanks....if I get off my rear and get some built I will take some pics....kind of tired of glueing...lol

I'm not sure if he has anodizing vats though

No...I haven't built them yet....but I need some myself for my 86. ?.......How many years are the same and will fit? I worked in a sheet metal fab shop for 12 years.....Know exactly how to do it.....need access to some equipment...but I do know a guy that has a fab shop so.....was kind of wondering if there was enough interest to build extra while I was at it.

My panel vent louvers are kind of all to pieces....been looking at them ....glued some of it together as before...but been kind of thinking about a more permanate fix by making them out of aluminum and maybe having them black anodized. Is there enough demand for replacements to maybe make a few? ....kind of cheaper than just one set. What I had in mind was to make the moving parts of them out of aluminum so they don't break so easy or get brittle like plastic and using the original housing......thoughts anyone?

Ok....thanks for the tips....will check it all out soon as I get a kitchen pass...lol.....she is going to want to ride soon...lol

Ok....anyone got any idea's on quick things I need to check on for known problems with brake light not working from the front switch...? Works thru the back one.

on my 86 VR....isn't the brake light suppose to come on when the front brake lever only is applied too?

Not sure if Ya'll have Autozones there but that is where I bought the 1/2 "(12.7mm) and 3/4"(19mm) heater hose material off a roll from...name of it was....Armormark....made by company named Cadna. The 1/4" coolant hose I couldn't find readily available so I cheated on that one and bought a 20" length of steel brake line and bent it to the curves I needed and just use short connecting pieces of fuel line hose on it and that material was called ...Barricade...made by Gates. temp on it was only good to 257F But...silicon coolant hose can be ordered from McMaster car

Just realized your in Canada so you might not want to make international call....but....when you get them in the form you want...takes about 20 degrees ish over bent to get what you want.

Is Castrol 20w-50 still friction modifiers free? Went to get some today and kind of got spooked...different looking container...and said something like..."Superior Sludge Protection tech..."

Hi....to be honest, I was surprised the forming actually worked....but got about 70 plus miles of riding and lots of idling and fan cycles here in the Bama heat on them so far and no issues yet. lol To answer your question,....10 minutes at a low to moderate boil...sorry got no exact temp cause I don't have a thermometer that goes that high. You can get my cell # off the member list here and give me a call if you want all the details. Might save you the learning curve...

Here are some pics I took of my hose forming setup and type of hose I used

Looks like it.....will know for sure when a little more run time. It's really pretty easy....go to "poor Man's Tips" and I posted most of it already....will do more when the results are proven out.

Sorry, I been forming my own coolant hoses for my '86 RV....was told it could be done.....an sure looks like it can....time will tell if they hold up