Freebird

Freebird Centerstand Installation Note: Since I am no longer making these stands and there have been some requests for the measurements, here they are for those who wish to make their own. The large holes on the U Braket and straight bars are 16mm. The ground out slot on the bottom of the bars are so that the stand will break over the proper amount. If it doesn't break over far enough, the bike will roll off the stand. If it breaks over to far, it is almost impossible to get the bike off the stand. You want it to break over so that it is just past vertical. The stands all vary just a bit so I always assemble them first and then grind the slots on each one until I get it right. I also grind all the sharp corners before painting. Just enough to put a nice rounded corner on them. You don't have to but it just looks nicer. You will notice that this one has the tab welded on. I later started having these stamped out at a machine shop so that they were one piece. It was just easier for me that way but welding works fine. The installation of the Freebird centerstand is pretty simple. Before proceeding in purchasing or installing one of my stands though, I should point out a couple of things. 1. Will this stand lift the rear wheel off the ground? Yes, if your suspension is STOCK it will lift it maybe a half inch off the ground. If you have installed the Diamond R leveling links, it will NOT lift the tire off the ground. I have the links on my bike but even though my tire is no longer off the ground, I find the stands very useful for oil changes and etc. 2. Can you still use a bike lift with the stand installed? I do. The lift WILL rest of the stand at the rear but I just let it. It has worked fine for me. If not, it only requires the removal of 4 bolts to drop the stand off. 3. This is just a note more than anything else. These stands are made from used centerstands off first generation Yamaha Ventures. I have them available as I can locate stands. I have the brackets available all the time so if you have or can find a used first gen stand, I will sell you only a bracket. You can also buy NEW first gen stands for somewhere around $85.00. So even if you buy a new stand and one of my brackets, you will still have less than $150.00 in a centerstand. 4. This is not an exact science. There are some variances in the old stands and I've seen some cases where the angled tab on the bottom of the second gen or RSTD have been slightly bent...or mashed down. I have test fitted every stand that I sell on my own bike but I sometimes get an email that the holes do not line up perfectly. That is usually not a problem. If you follow my directions and leave everything loose until all the bolts are in, you should then be able to tighten everything up and it will work fine. If there is a small space between the U Bracket and where it rests on the bikes frame...don't worry about it. I promise that the first time you put the 1,000 lb. bike on the frame...that space will go away. 5. I grind the inner part of the foot pad off so as to prevent it from hitting the exhaust shield. It will still be very close but should not touch. If it does, simply remove the stand, lay it on the ground and WHOP the foot lever with a sledge hammer. It will bend enough to clear. So...after all that...here are the instructions. This picture shows the existing tabs on the bottom of the bike where the stand will bolt up. Place the stand under the bike and insert the rear bolts into the holes. The existing holes are a metric size just ever do slightly smaller than 5/16". I supply 5/16" bolts so you will need to run a 5/16" bit through those holes...or you can purchase slightly smaller metric bolts. It's very easy though to run a bit through the holes. Now just swing up the horizontal bars and place the 3/8" bolts through the holes. The bars of the bracket go OUTSIDE the tabs on the frame. If they don't line up perfectly, just wiggle it around until you get them in. Tighten all the bolts and the stand is now mounted. Installing the spring is the next step. Place the LONG end of the spring through the small hole on the left horizontal bracket and take the spring OVER the top of the bikes frame. The other end of the spring connects to the existing tab at the bottom of the left stand leg. This picture shows how close the foot pad comes to the exhaust. If it touches or you feel it is too close. Just take the stand back off and bend it out a bit. Do NOT spread the legs of the actual stand...just hit the arch of the foot extension so that IT bends a bit further out. This is how it looks all mounted. On the stand from the side. Close up with bike on stand. From the back

How To Install Your Own Hidden Garage Door Opener Have you ever come home and fumbled for the garage door opener in your pocket while trying to steer? One solution I used on my previous scoot was to velcro the opener to the handlebars. Looked kind of tacky plus I always had to remember to remove it when leaving the bike unattended. After I got my new ride ('06 Venture), I decided to make something more permanent and easy to use. Here is how I did mine. Your own installation will vary depending on where you want to locate things, but the concept is the same. You will need to split the faring for this procedure. 1) Go out and buy a small transmitter, or use a spare you might have around the house. The smaller the better, but don't go too small as it will be almost impossible to find the solder points you will need to get to on the inside. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image002.jpg 2) Key your new transmitter to your garage door opener. Since every model is different I cannot begin to tell you here how to accomplish this. You will need to consult the manual for your particular brand. Once you have it keyed, test it. 3) Go to Radio Shack (or any electronics parts place) and get a Single Pole Momentary On pushbutton switch. The size, color and feel of the switch is strictly an individual choice. Attach 2 wires to the posts (solder is best) and shrink wrap (I shrink wrap everything). http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image004.jpg 4) Now pick a spot on the faring where you would like to have the button. Check locations when you are sitting on the bike to make sure that it is easily reachable and will not interfere with your operation of the bike. Once you have a location picked, make sure that the spot is reachable from the inside the faring. This picture shows mine under the left side. Since the button is black, it's hard to see. Look at the end of the arrow. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image006.jpg One suggestion: Remove the transmitter battery before starting this next step. It will save you the trouble of having to explain to the neighbors why your garage is not possessed just because the door keeps opening and closing every few seconds. 5) Now open up the transmitter and find 2 contact points on the circuit board that are closed when you push the transmitter button. Solder 2 wires to these contact points and route the wires outside the body of the transmitter. I used a small round file to cut 2 notches in the case where it split to allow the wires to not get crimped when I reassembled the case. This process is what took me the longest to do, in all, about 1 hour to locate the traces and carefully solder wires to them. An ohmmeter is really useful for doing this. Once the case is reassembled (with the battery back in) you should have something like this. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image008.jpg Test! Test! Test! If you have done everything correct to this point you should be able to touch the 2 bare ends of the transmitter wires together and your garage door should activate. If it does...congratulations!!! On to the next step. If not...go back to step 5 6) Drill a hole in the faring where you decided to locate the button and install it. A good idea is to put some silicone seal on the threads to keep the locknut from backing off. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image010.jpg 7) Now find a convienent place for the transmitter to sit on the inside of the faring and mount it. I use sticky back velcro just in case I need to remove the thing one day. 8) Connect the two wires from the button to the two wires from the transmitter. Since this is just completing a circuit it does not really matter which wire goes to which. In my case, I just twisted them together and then shrink wrapped the connections. Tidy up the extra wire with a couple of wire ties. Test it again! Put everything back together and you're ready to go. http://www.venturerider.org/garage/image012.jpg

http://www.venturerider.org/paint/PaintChartRef___00001.html

Motorcycle Tire Information and Conversion Charts Basic Tire Information http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc1.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc2.gif Break-In Period In order for your new tire to provide optimum performance, tires should be ridden very cautiously for the first 100 miles in order for the tread surface to be "Scuffed-In" and work properly. Directly after new tires are mounted, sudden acceleration, maximum braking and hard cornering must be avoided. This will allow the rider to adjust to the "feel" and handling characteristics of the new tire and for the new tire to be "scuffed-in" correctly in order to achieve optimum grip level. Conversion Charts http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc3.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc4.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc5.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc6.gif http://www.venturerider.org/tireinfo/motorc7.gif Tires with 2.00, 2.25, & 2.50 nominal section widths are rated for 75 mph. Remember, tire safety requires proper care and use. WARNING: Only properly trained personnel should mount tires.

I THINK this was written up by Squidley. Installation of the Battery Cable Upgrade As some of you have been patiently waiting for, here is the step by step instructions on how to install the Battery Cable upgrades on the 1st gen. I'm going to try my best to keep it in chronological order for less head aches. I will also mention that you might want to go out and purchase a magnetic tool tray to put all the screws and bolts into so none get lost. If you feel nervous on taking your bike apart this far I would suggest that as your disassembling it you take pictures with a digital camera to aid you in the reinstall. I have done this in the past and it's very helpful. Step 1: Remove the Faux tank cover by opening the fuel door and removing the lower retraining screw. Push forward and then lift up off the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.1.jpg Step 2: Disconnect the battery cables (both of them) and screw your retaining bolts back into the posts of the battery so they don't get lost. Pull the cables off to the side, as you will need some room to work around. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.2.jpg Step 3: You will need to remove the battery from it's tray, to do this you will have to un-strap it from the battery box. There is a rubber strap with metal rings that are in the fore and aft area of the box on the top. Pull the one in the front down to disengage it from it's hook point and then lift the entire fuse block off of the battery. You will need to pull the battery sensor wire (white with Red stripe) apart for the removal of the battery and remove the battery from the bike. Step 4: Next you will need to remover the upper fairing electronics on your left side the radio assy. and on the right the CLASS and CB. Pull them out and remove their cradles as you will also have to remove the top covers where the speakers are molded into. You will need to remove both upper pcs and disconnect all electronic leads so you have a clear area to work in. Remember also to pull the Headlight Adjusting Knob on the left side by pulling it strait back towards you. This will need to be off to facilitate removal of the speakers cover. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.3.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.5.jpg Step 5: There are 2 crescent shaped grill pieces on both sides of the steering head, the right one has the hazard switch in it. Pull the screws and remove both of these, disconnecting the hazard switch from the wire loom. Step 6: Now it's time to pull the battery box out you will need a 10 mm socket and ratchet with a 6" extension. There are 2 bolts in the bottom of the box that will probably be corroded; I would suggest you spray them down with penetrating oil before you attempt to loosen them. Don’t be surprised if you snap 1 or both of them while trying to remove them, if you do, you can drill and re-tap if it concerns you. One of mine is broken and I really don’t worry about it. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.6.jpg Now there is a 3rd bolt holding the battery box in, to get to it you will need to remove the auxiliary fuse block which is simply pushed onto a retaining bar as it's encased in a rubber holder. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.7.jpg Pull up on this assembly and move it out of your way now you'll be able to see the 3rd bolt, which is also a 10mm. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.8.jpg Step 7: Now your ready to pull the battery box out completely, there is a small trick to this. You want to pull it out from the right side at an angle, as there are 2 prongs on the left side that hold the Starter solenoid. It will take a little finagling but you'll just have to wiggle it out. The solenoid is encased in rubber and that is how it's attached to the box, you'll just have to slide it off the posts to the left. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.9.jpg Now your area should be clear of all the items necessary to get you cables in from the top down to the sides of the bike. Step 8: Now you have to pull off the 2 side panels the removable ones on both sides of the bike by your legs. Then up to the front and the 2 side shields that are besides the radiator, they are held on by 2 screws each. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.10.jpg When the screws are out pull the panel strait backwards and disengage it from it's slot and then forward . You can remove the horn brackets if you want but you don’t need to as the side shields will come off with them attached. Step 9: Depending on the year of your bike it might or might not have the lower air dam but this has to come off also just for the space availability, and to get at the starter, (If you don’t have this piece skip to step 10). http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.11.jpg There are 4 Allen head bolts that hold it on, 2 on the sides that are visible and 2 underneath the piece, take them out and remove that air dam. Step 10: Remove the chin bar that holds the 2 lower fairing pieces together, this is usually a Phillips head screw or 10mm head bolt, set this aside. Now to remover the 2 lower fairings with the air vents in them, remove the lower bolts from these assemblies (10mm) first and then come up to the top and remove the 2 Phillips screws that are now visible. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.12.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.13.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.14.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.15.jpg You should now be able to remove both of the lower fairing pieces. Now that your all disassembled it's time to install the new battery cables, this can be tedious and I would suggest that you have another pair of hands to help you as it goes LOTS easier with 2 people. I have done it by myself but you just have to be patient if you try to rush it you'll just get mad. Here's what needs to happen now.... Note; While you have access to the rear cylinder spark plug coils, I would suggest replacing the plug wires while they are accessible http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.16.jpg Installation of the cables Step 1: I would suggest you start with the Negative side first as it is the easiest to install and will boost your confidence a bit before attempting the Positive (note: remember the Positive cables have the red heatshrink the Negative has the black) Take a good look at how the cable is routed before you start, there is a small flexible tab that keeps the cable in place on the frames down tube. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.17.jpg These will need to be opened up as well as any cable ties that are holding the stock negative cable in place. (Remember to take pics of the routing if you dont feel confident that you'll remember) Now disconnect the Negative cable from the engine block using a 10mm socket or wrench. Step 2: It's totally up to you how you want to run the new cables, you can either pull them down from the top, or pull them up from the bottom. Myself I would pull them up as this is how I have done it in the past, now the fun begins. You will need a good strong cable tie as you are going to connect the old and new cables together.You also need to separate the additional grounding link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Once this is done you are going to start your Push/Pull method, you will run into some resistance as the new cables are almost twice the diameter of the stock ones, so be paitent. (NOTE: You can apply some WD 40 to the outside of the cable to help the cable slide through). The Negative should pull through fairly easily as there isn't a lot in it's path. Your second set of hands will come in handy here, being up top pulling as you work the cable through it's path from below. Once you get the new portion of cable in the box area http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.18.jpg you'll need to go below and hook up the new cable to the engine block. You can take a pair of vice grip pliers and bend the copper tab over to 90 degrees like the stock one is..this is just for a cleaner look and better fit. Now you can attach the cable back onto the frame tube where it was before and your done with that side. Step 3: Now it's time to do the Positive, this will be a bit more difficult as there is a lot in the area that the cable needs to go through. NOTE: For you who are a bit frazzled right now it might be a good time to get some refreshments ie; a beer or a shot of Beam or just a Root beer and take a break.You are going to do the same procedure as the Negative cable and first remove the Positive cable from the starter which is down inbetween the front exhaust pipes, it's a 10mm nut that holds it on. Remove the rubber nut cover from the stock cable as you can use this again on the new cable. You'll have to split it and re tape it around the new cable or go to your local electrical supply and purchase a bigger one. Then you need to remove the top of the Positive cable from the Starter Solenoid, and separate the fuseable link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Step 4: This is where it can be aggrivating as you will have to snake the Positive through tighter areas, short pulls win the race here so 2 sets of hands are very helpful in these steps. Some of you might have to loosen the bolts that holds the radio amp (left side) to the frame as I have seen some cables routed through there. I have pictured out where the cable comes up through the battery box area. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.19.jpg Once you have the cable in the box area you can re attach it to the frame tube and down to the starter, then pull your slack cable up into the box. Remember dont pull it super tight as you still have to install all your other components. Step 5: Replace the short lead from the Solenoid to the battery, Pay attention to how it is twisted and clamped on the solenoid as you will need to have it in a similar shape for the reinstall. I would suggest you do this before you reinstall the battery box as it it will be easier to get to the retaining nut. NOTE; The rubber ends that cover the positive lugs can be reused but you will have to split them to wrap around the thicker cable. I have done this and you can use either electrical tape or a larger heat shrink tube. You can also go to your local electrical supply house and purchase bigger ends to go over the cables. Your almost home free now all that’s left is to start reassembly

S-U-P-E-R Rear Wheel Removal System for 83-93 Yamaha Venture (+ others) What does S-U-P-E-R stand for? --------> Simplified ----------> Unassembly ------------> Procedure --------------> Especially ----------------> Rewarding What is so SUPER about a "system" for removing the rear wheel, and how can it be "simplified" and "especially rewarding"? If you have NEVER removed a rear wheel from a 1st generation Venture, you probably don't have a good perspective of how much is involved (time and parts count). If you do have a good perspective, that may be a reason why you have never done it. If you HAVE removed a rear wheel from a 1st generation Venture, you would probably not be happy if you unexpectedly had to do it again ---- but keep reading, and you may have hope that it can almost be made as easy as if you had the bike on a hoist!!! The S-U-P-E-R system can apply to other motorcycles with a centerstand, that require disassembly of many parts in order to get the rear wheel off. ============================== DISCLAIMER =============================== ********* USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK ********* Working around any large moving or movable object such as a motorcycle, can result in injury or worse. Common sense should tell you that motorcycles can fall or be knocked down much easier than a vehicle with more than 2 wheels, so expect that some condition that you didn't anticipate could cause the bike to fall during this or any other wheel removal. Location - location - location. Just like many things in life, where an activity takes place can have a major effect on the results. The best place to perform a wheel removal is on a level concrete surface. Asphalt and dirt can give-way to changes in heat and moisture, causing the bike to become unstable. The distribution of the bikes weight front to back at various stages of the procedure can change, and may need to be compensated for by relocating weights on/in the bike. The most practical places to add or remove weights are the saddlebags and the trunk. The amount of fuel can be a factor that can also change the bikes balance from one time to another. Although the job has and can be done by one person, an assistant to help with holding or moving weights could make the process a little easier and safer. ============================ DISCLAIMER ENDS ============================ BACKGROUND INFORMATION ====================== The Genuine Yamaha Service Manual (pages 6-7 through 6-10) has the official rear wheel removal procedure for the 86-93 Venture. The preparations to get to the point to "start" removing the rear wheel are summarized below. Things that you don't have to do in the S-U-P-E-R system are preceded by a *, and for step 1 you only have to remove one muffler. 1. Remove both mufflers ............... 2 bolts removed + 2 bolts loosened * 2. Remove right saddlebag lid ......... open 2 locks * 3. Remove turn signal bulb ............ Unplug from bottom of saddlebag * 4. Remove rear-center reflector ....... 2 nuts & 2 washers * 5. Remove rear-center ornamental band . 4 bolts * 6. Remove fender cover ................ 2 bolts * 7. Remove black right-side cover ...... 2 screws * 8. Remove saddlebag ................... 4 bolts * 9. Remove saddlebag stay (bracket) .... 3 bolts *10. Remove rear fender ................. 4 bolts Total bolts/nuts/screws: ............ 27 TOTAL TIME: = make a wild guess What does the S-U-P-E-R system do to prepare to remove the rear wheel? The list follows. 1. Attach 1 or 2 tie-down straps from centerstand to engine guard 2. Remove the right muffler ........... 1 bolt removed + 1 bolt loosened !! HERE'S WHERE IT GETS REALLY DIFFERENT from the official version !! 3. Remove both FRONT brake calipers ... 4 bolts 4. Loosen the FRONT axel pinch bolt ... 1 bolt loosened 5. Remove the FRONT axel bolt ......... 1 bolt 6. Remove the FRONT wheel ............. 1 front wheel Total bolts/wheel: .................. 9 TOTAL TIME: = 5-8 minutes From a parts count, S-U-P-E-R looks "Simplified", but what about the "Especially Rewarding"? Wouldn't you feel that the information is especially rewarding if you can do the same job in dramatically less time compared to someone "following the book"? The main purpose of the official procedure is to remove many parts, directed at the goal -----> to get the rear fender (the lowest part behind the rear wheel) off so that the wheel can be removed. The main purpose of the S-U-P-E-R system is to remove as few parts as possible (remember, everything disassembled has to be reassembled) directed at the goal -----> to increase the space below the rear fender (which stays on the bike) to make rear wheel removal easier. SAFETY FIRST ============ This procedure includes a safety feature that can be applied when removing the rear wheel of any centerstand motorcycle. The feature is to connect a tie-down strap between the centerstand and a point on the front of the frame or engine guard. This all but guarantees that the bike can't roll (or even be pushed) forward off the centerstand while pulling and pushing on things. It is especially functional because of the position that the procedure puts the bike into. I can't say that the tie-downs are absolutely necessary, but it is cheap insurance to minimize the chance of the bike falling if it is accidentally bumped! CONSIDERATIONS ============== The amount of fuel in the tank and the weight of items in the trunk and saddlebags can affect the balance of weight on the front and rear of the bike, thereby affecting the ability of the bike to stay in one position or the other (front wheel down or rear wheel down). HISTORY ======= Before I actually needed to remove the rear wheel, I did remove the front wheel and lower the front end of the bike quite successfully 4 times. With the tools and tie-downs and the cardboard/carpet set out, I once took about 4 1/2 minutes (not even rushing) to remove the front axel, and have the bike kneeling (it will be explained). While I was still randomly working on this documentation, I got a rear tire flat. Again, with things set out, I had the rear wheel off in ------ 10 minutes 28 seconds!!!! I even had to take time to get the 14mm socket from the tool kit because I forgot to set it out, so I probably had the rear wheel off in less than 10 minutes ----- again, with just normal speed work. Maybe a motorcycle mechanic with a lift and air tools can do it faster, but not on a lonely stretch of road in Texas. THE BASIC KNEELING SEQUENCE PREVIEW =================================== At 5' 9" and 155 lbs, the lowering and lifting weight on the front-end of the bike wasn't uncontrollable -- 116 lbs with the fork tubes on my digital scale (1/2 tank of gas and maybe 20 pounds in the saddlebags and trunk). If you can hold a bathroom scale, and have someone push down on it with 130 lbs, you should be able to do the job by yourself -- just believe that it can be done. 1. Beginning from the condition of the front wheel removed 2. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 3. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 4. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 5. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support - The lift-up is just the reverse sequence. When you have 30 minutes free time for the disassemble / kneel / reassemble, try it yourself to see just how easy it is before you really need to do it.

Submitted by Bill Anton B-E-S-T Rear Wheel Removal 83-93 Venture If you use the rear wheel removal procedure in the XVZ13D Yamaha Genuine Service Manual (pages 6-7 through 6-10) the method describe here requires SO MUCH less disassembly and saves SO MUCH time. The limitation is that you must have or can find a suitable location to park the bike to do the job. The benefit is that you can save most of the "official" procedure time by removing only the essential parts similar to a sport bike instead of a dresser bike. B-E-S-T is a memory-aid acronym for: Bike Extending Some Tail BACKGROUND INFORMATION ====================== With the bike on the centerstand, the bottom of the rear fender is about 14" above the ground, and it has moved rearward about 11" from where it was when the centerstand first touched the ground. The rear tire is about 25"-26" tall, which means that having about 10" of additional space below the rear fender will allow easier rear wheel removal. Instead of having to dig a 10" hole beneath the rear wheel, this procedure uses an existing location to gain that space. What you need to do is to park the bike with the rear wheel hanging out over a 10" lower surface (example: a curb). Sounds difficult or almost impossible, but it's not done without the aid of some blocking material (wood or concrete blocks). The ideal location will have access to safely drive the motorcycle onto a concrete elevated surface, and then back it to NEAR the edge of the lower surface. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to drive up a ramp that you cannot put your feet down on both sides at the same time, otherwise a fall could occur. DISASSEMBLY =========== 1. Remove as much weight as practical from the saddlebags and trunk to make the rear lighter for safety while working under it. 2. Back the bike onto a sturdy "structure" extending at least 12" beyond the edge of the current surface, so the tire directly below the rear axel is about 4" beyond the edge and at least 10" above the lower surface. NOTE: The extra length of the sturdy structure is for safety in the event that the bike were to accidentally roll rearward too far for a perfect stop point without a sturdy structure. 3. Put the bike on the centerstand. 4. Remove the structure from the edge. 5. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 7. Remove the muffler. 8. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 9. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned verticle, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned verticle, make the marks when you have the axel out. 10. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 11. Remove the axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 13. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 14. 14. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 15. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. REASSEMBLY ========== Reverse the disassembly steps.

Submitted by Bill Anton If this is something you may need to do (Sunday or Monday when bike shops are closed) print the procedure and put it in your owners manual. DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ===================== NOTE: This info is specific to the 1983-1993 Yamaha Venture motorcycle. Make intelligent (safe) changes for other motorcycles. Included in the procedure are REASSEMBLY torque specifications. The size listed is for the socket or wrench, not the bolt thread size. Initial tools required: - ratchet - 3" extension - sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 19mm - 14mm box-end wrench (if you loosen/remove the final drive) - 27mm flat wrench (rear axel nut) - 6mm Allen wrench (front axel pinch bolt) - pliers (for cotter key) OR get a get a 5/32" $0.75 hitch pin clip (Lowes / Home Depot) and never have to hassle with the archaic cotter key again - tie-down strap(s) - carpet / cardboard (for under forks) !! IMPORTANT: Control the bike's weight balance to make it safe to work around. You may have to ADD some WEIGHT to the REAR of the bike (saddlebags & trunk) BEFORE starting the procedure, so the front of the bike doesn't fall when the front wheel is removed in step 13. You should REMOVE everything from the saddlebags & trunk AFTER the front wheel is removed so the rear of the bike doesn't fall while working on the rear wheel. 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Connect tie-down straps from the bottom of the centerstand legs, to the engine guards. Pull them as snug as practical. 3. To keep the fork tubes from getting damaged in step 10, place a cardboard or carpet (from a car?) under the front tire area. 4. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 5. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm, and remove the muffler. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 7. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned vertical, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned vertical, make the marks when you have the axel out. 8. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. *** DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR AXEL NOW *** REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 9. Front wheel remove: 1. Remove both brake calipers (2 bolts each) - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lb TIP: Get 2 pieces of cardboard 4"x4" and fold them in half and insert them between the pads to hold them apart TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread brake pads during reassemble. 2. Loosen the front axel pinch bolt - 6mm Allen wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lb 3. Remove the front axel bolt - 19mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 75 ft-lb 4. Remove the front wheel. TIP: When you pull the wheel out, the speedo cable and drive will fall away -- don't worry unless you are over a dirt surface. REMINDER: On reassembly the speedo housing top-tab goes into the fork notch. 10. Carefully lower the front of the bike until the fork tubes are on the cardboard or carpet. 1. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 2. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 3. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 4. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support ****** REMOVE WEIGHT from the saddlebags & trunk for better counter balance. 11. Remove the rear axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the brake caliper bracket. 13. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 14. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 15. 15. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 16. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Removal of the final drive unit at this point is recommended to lube the driveshaft splines (Molybdenum Disulfide Grease) as long as the wheel is off anyway. See the FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL procedure below. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* 17. Reverse the DISASSEMBLY procedures from 14 to 1. - in step 10, do the sub-steps in 3-2-1 order. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE (optional) ============================= 1. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lbs. 2. Pull the final drive out of the swingarm. NOTE on 86-93 models: The driveshaft oil seal makes the shaft "stick" to the final drive. The driveshaft can be pulled out with a firm force. DO NOT lube 86-93 driveshaft rear splines, final drive fluid lubes them. BE CAREFUL if you pull the shaft out of the final drive, oil can drain from the final drive. FINAL DRIVE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ================================ 1. Reinstall the driveshaft: 1. Pull (hard on 86-93 models) the driveshaft out of the final drive. Set the drive aside, being careful to keep it tilted up to prevent fluid loss. 2. Put the transmission in neutral. 3. Use a flashlight, and insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, and use it to align the U-joint so that the yoke is vertical (12 & 6 O'clock), and angled down toward the bottom of the swingarm. 4. Put the transmission in gear (so the U-joint can't turn). 5. Reattach the driveshaft to the final drive. 6. Insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, letting the front end drag on the bottom of the swingarm. 7. Wiggle the wheel mating gear on the final drive to mate the driveshaft with the U-joint - then put the 4 nuts on http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%201%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20rear%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%202%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%203%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20front%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%204%20Kneeling%20front%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%205%20Parts%20removed%20in%2010%20minutes%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%206%20Centerstand%20tie-down%20strap%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%207%20Wheel%20out%201%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%208%20Worms-eye%20view%20of%20rear%20wheel%20well%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%209%20Rear%20brake%20caliper%20bracket%20position%20pin%20(Small).JPG

It's sad when anybody is taken away too early but it is especially painful when it's one of our own. Our thoughts and prayers will remain with Missy (tatgirl06) the children, family and friends. Here is a great pic of Richard and Missy.

Very sorry to hear about the loss of the bike but glad you are ok. After 20 years...that's a tough way to part with one. I can't help you much on the insurance stuff but I'm sure that others here will have some answers for you. From what the first gen parts sell for on Ebay....there IS some value there. I'm thinking that if you can pick it up for a few hundred dollars...maybe $300 - $500....you might do ok assuming that most of the major components are still ok. HEY....I would be interested in the center stand.

Absolutely...moving it now.

People here have used several different ones. The ones that I used are Pioneer TS-G1041R. I've been pretty happy with them. Don

That is the J&M system that I posted for the link to Sierra. You can buy J&M cheaper from Sierra than you can direct from J&M and Sierra is great to deal with.

A bit pricey but if you want to add CB, Intercomm and an input for a MP3 player and etc....this is GREAT. http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JM%2DJMCB2003%2DDU

Floyd, It depends on what you are trying to do. If you want to just attach a picture, before submitting your message...scroll down just a bit and click on the "manage attachments" button. Browse your computer for the file and then upload it. If you are trying to put a picture within your message, it has to be uploaded somewhere else. In that case...you click on the yellow square with mountain in it on the tool bar and then enter the url of where the picture is uploaded to. Don

The battery light simply monitors the level of the electrolyte. Make sure that the level is up...if it's not...add distilled water. It would be a dirty probe also. You might want to clean it off. Don

By the way, I see that you have a '99. If you are having problems with transmitting, receiving, squealing, etc.....look to the antennas. The antennas on the '99 were total junk. I had a LOT of problem before changing mine to aftermarket. Yamaha went with a different design in the 2000 and later models.

You will need to lift the trunk. I've been into it and it's not difficult. Why are you checking the connections? Never heard of a problem with the connections in the unit itself. What kind of problem are you having?

I've got to put together the filter cross reference again. First thing you will need though is the Rivco adapter to convert it to the spin ons. The one that they list is the Fram PH-3950 but you can cross reference that to a lot of different ones. http://saturn.dnsprotect.com/~rivcopro/products/product.php?productid=93&cat=201&page=1 Don

No more rev limiter for me either...I too have the Dyna. That being said though, I had never hit it in 4th or 5th and in fact, these bikes will run faster in 4th. I've had it as fast as it would go in 5th...kicked it down to 4th and got more speed. Don

By the way, there is a GREAT article in the tech library that covers this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=502

Please add to this list if you think of something that I have missed. Chirp. There has been a lot of discussion on the "chirping" sound on the second gen Venture and Royal Stars. There is often some confusion about this sound. These bikes use straight cut gears which create a whine that is best described as the sound made by an old granny gear truck when you are letting it coast. That is a normal sound that is characteristic of the straight cut gears. The sound that is NOT normal is a high pitched chirping sound. This is a result of improper clutch basket clearances. Yamaha has replaced many clutch baskets under warranty and many people have reported that this has greatly reduced or eliminated this noise. Dry drive splines. Yamaha seems to be very stingy with the grease that they use on the rear drive spines on these bikes. There have been many reports of noise from the drive area. Yamaha has lubed some of these as a warranty issue but many of us have done the job at home. It requires a lift to remove the rear tire and then pulling the drive shaft to lube the front splines and also removing the rear drive from the wheel hub to grease the "fingers". Trunk Cracks. The 1999 model RSV had an issue with the trunk bottoms cracking. Yamaha came out with a support kit to address this problem and installed it under warranty. Audio Problems. Many people have had problems with the audio system due to back connections of the 5 din plugs inside the fairing. The fix is to split the fairing, unplug the connectors and apply a bit of dielectric grease to the pins. CB Antennas. The 1999 model RSV came with very poor CB Antennas. Many were replaced under warranty. The design was changed with the 2000 models. Many have replace the '99 antennas with aftermarket units. Backfiring. Upon deceleration, many have experienced a loud backfire. This actually sounds like a cannon going off. Some have corrected the problem by syncing the carbs but many of us have plugged the AIS system to stop this problem completely. There is a tech article here on plugging the AIS.

We had a list before the crash that was lost. I will list the things that I remember, please add the things that I am forgetting. Cracked frames. Early Ventures, '83 models specifically, have been know to develop cracked frames. This occurs just above the area where the center stand attaches. Second Gear. In models from '83 through mid '85 there is a problem with the bikes losing second gear. It does not happen on all bikes but is very common. Usually starts by slipping out of second gear on hard acceleration. Can be repaired by a savvy home mechanic but does require the removal of motor. Expensive fix if you have it done at a dealer. I've seen estimates approaching $2,000.00 Stators. Early models suffered from stator failure due to over heating. Later models incorporated an oil cooling system. Cracked trunks. Very common to find the bottom of the trunks cracked out. Class air suspension controller. E4 errors are common. Caused by bad solders on the circuit board within the controller. Easy fix if you are familiar with using a soldering iron. There is a tech article here to deal with the fix. Front end wobble. Pretty common. Various causes but usually either a slightly cupped front tire or loose steering head bearings. Repacking and proper tightening of the head bearings is highly recommended whether you have experienced the wobble or not. Exhaust collector. Baffles become loose and cause a rattle. There is a tech article on opening up the collector and repairing. There is also an after market system out that does away with the collector.

This was originally submitted to me years ago when I had a forum for the Honda Shadow. No reason why it wouldn't work on the Venture also. Polishing the Lower Forks All right, you've added all those chrome accessories to your bike and you look at your lower forks (sliders) and you want to spiff them up. Whether you just don't like that dull, swirling, satin pattern &/or you have nicks and/or scratches - you want them to gleam like the rest of your bike. You find out that to chrome them is not only expensive but you won't be riding for nearly a month (maybe more) because you will have to remove them and send them out. Can't handle the expense or the down time? You can polish them to a lustrous sheen - almost chrome like. This is manual/hand labor - quite a few hours. Your hands will get real tired. If you want a perfect job/end result, you'll wind up spending two afternoons doing it. Plan on a total of 5 to 8 hours, depending on your endurance and what shape your sliders are in before you begin. Road nicks and scratches will be sanded out and require extra time. (Mine were nicked up - this is what prompted me to do this.) Some people have told me they used a Dremel. I did not. My theory was that the Dremel sanding drum is a cylinder and so are the sliders - minimal contact points - most likely leading to furrows and ridges. Even on a flat surface (like the brake reservoir cover) the Dremel will sand in uneven rows/furrows. An orbital palm sander will finish a flat surface much better. This is not the case when doing the sliders. So, I opted for hand sanding, curling my fingers around the sliders and going at it with a graduation of finer grits. You start off with dry sanding and coarse grit, working up to wet sanding and finer grits to achieve a silky smooth finish. It's that simple in theory - and it works - but you have to put a lot of manual labor into it. I am not trying to talk you out of it. I am a realist and want you to know this is not a quick fix. Yet, it's worth it and comes out looking great! You have a few options to make your work easier. You have to remove the fender because there is no clearance to sand between the fender and the sliders. Once you do that, you are free to follow the procedure listed below. You could remove the sliders (but that's a pretty big job!) so you can work on a bench (faster and easier). I only removed the fender, got my camping stool and went at it. You also could apply a (toxic) stripper (now, now) to remove the clear coat from the sliders but I did not want the mess and any possible damage to the rims or spokes. To remove the fender, here is a hint from my mech. Jack up the bike to raise the front end, remove the wheel and use a scissors jack to push/seperate the forks to a wider position (don't over do it, just enough) to allow the fender to come out easily - w/o scraping/scratching the paint. Don't tweak the forks out of shape and damage them - you only need a little extra clearance supplied by the scissors jack! All that said, here's what I did: Starting off with DRY SANDING: 3M Aluminum Oxide for metal 1) medium grit - # 100 - to remove clear coat & smooth out nicks/scratches 2) fine grit - # 230 - to lessen marks of the 120 & the last of nicks/sratches Proceed with WET SANDING (get a pail of water) 3) medium grit - # 400 - really work it, eliminate nicks/scratches and all previous dry sanding marks - only now see #400 abrasions. 4) medium/fine grit - #600 - you're heading for the finish, smoothing it out 5) fine grit - # 800 - keeps getting easier, you are attaining a finished surface 6) finishing grit - #1200 - now you are getting the silky/final surface Optional step: Rubbing Compound (yeah, I'm a perfectionist) 7) tearing up an old T-shirt, creating a "shoe shine boy's" cloth, liberally apply compound to cloth, wrap it around the slider, and pull back alternately on the ends to work the complete surface of the slider to a "glass" smooth surface. Polish the sliders (your choice, Mother's or Simichrome or whatever shines best) 8) using a clean section of that T-shirt, apply polish (I used Mother's) and work that "shoe shine" rag over the complete surface of the sliders. When you stand back to admire your work, you'll be amazed. You'll forget about all the cursing of me that you did. You'll grin or laugh or say something out loud - it'll look that good - and you'll forget how tired your arms and hands are. The jury is still out for me on whether or not to apply a paste wax to the sliders to protect them. I did not. Other people told me that they did. I feared the wax would discolor my labors over time. I did my sliders in December of 98. Five months later and three or four washings, they still look great and shine. I am a low maintenance type of guy as far as cosmetics go. I ride, I don't spend time washing/polishing. I keep my bike garaged and covered - which helps a great deal. I ride to work whenever I can but it's a short commute (darn). I ride every other weekend because I have my kids every other weekend - so I average about 400 miles on those weekends. I mention all this so you understand why I did not put wax on the forks and why I wash the bike only once a month. Hope all this helped and you are completely happy with your polished forks/sliders! I am sure you will be. I hope the maintenance is little and you get to ride that shining beast a whole bunch! Happy motoring... Submitted by Crazy Charley

ADJUSTING THE HEADLAMP 1. Put yourself on the scooter and position it upright, i.e., riding position. Have the other person measure from the center of the headlamp to the floor of your garage. 2. Measure off 25' from the front of the lamp and draw a line (horizontally that corresponds to the floor to lamp center point) on the wall. 3. Turn your lights on and put them on high beam (not low beam). First, adjust the vertical (with your weight still on the bike) so the light is even above and below the horizontal line you drew on the wall. Then adjust the horizontal so you have an equal amount of light to the left and right of the center point. This should put you "almost perfect" on high beam and low beam. Good Luck.