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Freebird

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Everything posted by Freebird

  1. Freebird
    Just saw this but no, I did NOT lower the front at all. I only raised the rear.
  2. Freebird
    OK....the VRPhotos is actually hosted in a photobucket account. Anybody can add pictures to it but it's really intended to be for pictures from our rallies, meet and eats, etc. The best place to add your personal pictures is your vBPicGallery. You CAN create more than one gallery if you have more pictures to upload. Don
  3. Freebird
    I understand. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, it's best to let somebody else do it. Those helmets aren't cheap.
  4. Freebird
    I had a friend who put them on his Shadow Ace but of course that bike produces an entirely different sound. It sounded good and I would say was about as loud as the Khromewerks. I too was riding a Shadow Ace at the time and had Corbin slash cuts on it. The Corbins were louder.
  5. Freebird
    Al, I would be happy to do it for you but I'm in Ohio. It's not hard to do though. I had to cut the foam to install them in my Nolan helmets. I just laid the speakers where I wanted them, traced around them on the foam with a marker and then cut it out. I didn't cut all the way through. Just the approximate depth of the speakers and then carefully cut and scooped out the foam to that depth.
  6. Freebird
    Boomer will have to reply. That is HIS lift. Hey folks....uh...I wasn't there. This was all boomer's work and he just sent me the article.
  7. Freebird
    I agree...the very first thing I would suspect would be the carb sync. They really shouldn't have done anything else that could cause this problem.
  8. Freebird
    You can change the caps. The parts micro fische at http://www.dgy.com shows that the coils and wires are one piece but list the caps as separate items. If your dealer is selling you that the caps are part of the coil assembly, then they are wrong. This is the info that they show: Plug cap Assembly Part Number 4NK-82370-00-00 $24.37
  9. Freebird
    Yep...that would be Boomer....These are his pics and great write-up...I just posted it.
  10. Freebird
    As far as I know....there is no way to switch to kilometers...at least not on the RSV. I'm not sure though about the RSTD.
  11. Freebird
    Well....that's what you get. I actually called Rick last week but he was out for the afternoon. I was supposed to call back the next day but just hadn't done it yet. I guess my lapse was for the good, now you have to take YOUR bike apart and I don't. Actually, I'll still follow up with Rick. It won't hurt to have him looking at it also.
  12. Freebird
    I've not had to change mine yet so can't say 100% but I understand that they are one piece. When the time comes that I do have to change them, I will probably go aftermarket so that I can do only the wires the next time around. I'm not sure but I THINK that Dynatek makes a replacement coil that will work on our bikes. http://www.dynaonline.com/english/cruisers.htm
  13. Freebird
    Check out http://www.diamondraccessories.com They are the only ones I know of that make them. They are also a fantastic company to deal with.
  14. Freebird
    OEM Bag Rails- Do the Lines Look Right to You? By Brad Norris “Boomer” OK, I couldn’t wait until I bought a set of OEM bag rails from a guy on bay. These were the Real McCoy and came in the OEM box. I made special time on a busy Saturday as soon as they arrived and mounted them up. Installation is quick and easy with the most time spent on removing the bags. After installation I admired them from all angles but wasn’t quite happy with the fit up. It appears to me that the bottom of the rails, when compared to the lines of the bag, just didn’t look right. The back end of the rails appears to be higher than in the front. Also, the back of the rails sat right under the turn signals- in fact, they touch each other. I quickly became suspicious of the Ebayer I bought these from but after looking at many pics on the forums I subscribe to, I saw the same trend in 95% of those I saw. Here is a side shot before with the camera leveling out on the rail. Muffler removed for clarity. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic1.jpg The rear distance from the bottom of the bag to the bottom of the rail is much different from the front measurement. Mine was out ¾”. To make the “gaps” closer to each other, either the back of the bags must be raised or the rails lowered in the rear. Since it is impractical to raise the bags, I decided to lower the rails. To do this, remove the bag and loosen the front mounting bolt on the rail. Here’s a back shot of the bike with the OEM mount up. Note that the rail rubs the signal. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic2.jpg I would suggest you do your own measurements to determine where to drill the new hole for the rear mount. Use a small “C” clamp on the rear mount when you think your measurement is close and then set the bag back on to see how it looks. It’s a bit tricky, but better to measure twice- and drill once. Important- Since the chrome rail you will drill into is “U” shaped, be mindful that you will have to put a metric nut behind it for the bolt. If you drill too close to the edge of the rail, you may not have enough room to thread the bolt in the new nut. The back of the rail has foam in it. Just make way for the new nut. I can’t remember the size of the nut but I bought it at Home Depot. When you have the final position, hold the back of the rail in place and use a spring loaded center punch to mark the new bolt location. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic3.jpg A spring loaded center punch makes this task a bit easier. If you don’t have one, GET ONE. Here’s a pic of mine: http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic4.jpg Be sure to put some scrap metal behind the bracket before you push the drill through the fender and god forbid…the tire! Now, place the rear bolt that came with the rails through the support in the hole you just drilled and fasten with a nut (metric). Retighten the front bolt and install the bag. You should have something that resembles this: http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic5.jpg When you’re done, you will notice the rails-to-bag lines look much better. http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic6.jpg In the rear, the bag rails no longer rub the signals. Enjoy! http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic7.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/bagrails/pic8.jpg
  15. Freebird
    They are probably just WRONG WRONG WRONG. I've heard and seen this happen before and it had nothing to do with rings or valves. They were just out of adjustment enough to cause it to happen. Bob Dakin had the same thing happen. He finally used the Carbtune and got them adjusted just fine.
  16. Freebird
    Mine is set on 7250 and curve 3. I think..but am not sure...that is the setting that most people use. You should not have to rejet after adding the mufflers. Most people don't and they work great. A couple of people have mentioned that you can indeed improve the performance a bit by rejetting though. I've run several different mufflers and have never felt that I needed to change the jets.
  17. Freebird
    It came with a pigtail that hooks to the battery and comes out from under the seat. Just park and plug it in to the charger. Works great.
  18. Freebird
    I'll also add this. The Battery Tender WILL top it off. There have been many times when I am working on the bike in the garage and have started it a few times, played the radio, etc. When I'm done I put the Battery Tender back on it and after a while, it shows topped off again. I also said that I've used it for the past couple of winters but in fact, I pretty much keep the Battery Tender on it year round. When I come in from a ride, I just plug it in.
  19. Freebird
    It's OK...take a look at the following link. The Battery Tenders will NOT charge a discharged Odyssey battery but it WILL work on a charged battery to prevent it from going down. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/charging.htm Here is the section that I am referring to: There is another class of chargers that is designed specifically to maintain the battery in a high state of charge. These chargers, such as the 1.25 amp Battery Tender® from Deltran are not capable of charging a deeply discharged ODYSSEY® battery. This is due to the fact that these chargers have very low output power. They should only be used either to continuously compensate for parasitic losses or to maintain a trickle charge on a fully charged stored battery.
  20. Freebird
    Yes...I've had a battery tender on my for the past 2 winters and it has done great. Don
  21. Freebird
    I'm starting my 4th year with the Odyssey and really like it. No problems at all so far.
  22. Freebird
    Thanks to Bikenut for this excellent information. Here is a list of replacement U-joints for the drive shaft on the 1st Gen Ventures. I have been running the B110 datson u-joint on my trike kit and it works great. Here is the list 1966 thru 1973 B110 Datson Car parts store Trw 20128 Spicer 5-1500X AEC 1064 Precision 392 Keith Yedica Bikenut Casco,Wisconsin Before you go this route, please read the next post.
  23. Freebird
    Squeezes post has been copied to the tech library and award issued. Thank you very much.
  24. Freebird
    Originally posted by "Squeeze" In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a engine starting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Battery power gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Battery manufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar. __________________ Life's too short to have bad Drinks ....
  25. Freebird
    I've got the Barons Tach that is mounted on the reservoir and I really like it a lot. They DO still make it. They just don't offer it as a package now. They sell the reservoir mount as a separate item.
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