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Freebird

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  1. Freebird
    Installing a Barons Tachometer on a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Tartan Terror for this excellent article. Installing a Barons tach on a RSV is actually not as difficult as I had anticipated. I did before I started call Barons tech line so that I could clear up any questions I had before I started. I was very glad I did. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image002.jpg I used the Barons Subsonic Mini tach but hook up on all of them are the same. For this model you get a tach, control unit and color change button. I decide to also get the Master Cylinder mount for a clean mount. You can mount yours anywhere you want. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image004.jpg One thing you will have to do is to extend the wiring from the tach if you mount it up on the handlebars. The cable down to the 4 pin connector is too short (Actually tells you this in the directions too) . I added about 8 inches by cutting the connector off and extending the wires. Im a stickler for clean connections for I soldered and covered the connections with heat shrink tubing. I also covered the wires with a wire loom type cover. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image006.jpg Remove the seat and tank as you will need to connect one of the ignition coils. Run the wires neatly to the ignition coil you will see on the right side of the bike just above the dog bone. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image008.jpg Remove the two bolts holding the ignition coil and pull the coil gently out to where you can get to it. In the Tach kit you will see two dividers to put two spade connectors on the coil. Next you will plug in the 4 pin connector. Connect the red wire from the control box to the red wire from the tach (the one in the 3 wire bundle not the 4 pin connector) by crimping them into a single spade connector. Slide this on the extra blade on the Red and Black wire on the coil. Next crimp a blade connector onto the green wire and slide this on the extra blade on the white wire side of the coil. Note: Check connecters before fitting it all together. Make sure the blades slide together. You may need to do a little filing for a good fit. Connect the black wire from the control box and black wire from tach (3 wire bundle). I soldered a short wire extention to these wires and then crimped on a loop connector. This is your ground. I connected this to the rear bolt on the coil holding it to the frame on reinstallation of the coil. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image010.jpg I installed the control box on top of the from with double sided tape. Choose the location for your control button and connect the wires from the button to the wire on the control box. I installed my button on the bars up near the right side controls. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image012.jpg Tuck all the wires out of the way and Reinstall tank and seat. Start bike and test. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image014.jpg Your done now go out and ride it like you stole it.
  2. Freebird
    Yes...I actually run mine in the "run" position. I sometimes don't notice when the low fuel light comes on so when the engine starts to sputter, I just reach down and switch it to reserve and keep on going. It usually takes 10 to 15 seconds before the engine starts getting gas again and I'm on my way.
  3. Freebird
    I've never used it but have read good reports. I assume you tried the article in the tech library about making your own? That is how you messed yours up I guess.
  4. Freebird
    You didn't hurt a thing. Now WIND those bikes out folks...these V4s like to rev. Wrap em up and then report back.
  5. Freebird
    It is absolutely safe. 5th is a true overdrive. These bikes will actually produce a higher top end speed in 4th than 5th. I've downshifted to 4th at over 100 MPH.
  6. Freebird
    No...that is not normal. Now it is possible that you are lugging the engine. These engines really like to rev and 5th gear is a true overdrive. If you are attempting quick acceleration at those speeds while in 5th gear, that could be the problem. Otherwise, I would get it back to the dealer and have it checked.
  7. Freebird
    Are you sure you didn't run through something? Road tar, etc? I don't know how much grease you are seeing but those little bearings only hold so much. Of course....it can look like a LOT when thrown out. I really don't know how to answer your question without seeing it. If it really is grease from the bearings though, I wouldn't try to use it until I got it repaired.
  8. Freebird
    I've seen the ads on TV and have often done the research online. Every one of them....EVERY SINGLE ONE that I've ever researched have proven to be useless.
  9. Freebird
    Great post. I have copied it to the tech library. Thanks.
  10. Freebird
    I too have the leveling links. With them I run about 35 lbs. regardless of solo or two up.
  11. Freebird
    Yes...works great. We gave away a bunch of it that Seafoam donated at one of our VentureIns a couple of years ago. Good stuff.
  12. Freebird
    I've never used those but they look pretty good. It's been a LONG time ago that I used a helicoil either so I really don't know which would be the better choice.
  13. Freebird
    Thanks to GeorgeS for this excellent article. NOTE: These pictures give you a good overview of the workings of the speedometer. You do not necessarily have to tear yours down to this extent to lubricate it. 1ST Gen Speedometer Photos I just read thru this thread, and just happen to have a , spare 1St Gen, Speedo in the cabinet , Right Here, at my the computer station: ( And a Camera !!! ) So, I took some photo's, that might be helpful to those who have the noise, and have not had the speedo removed. The Idea of blowing light lubricant up the cable housing caught my attention!! So I took these photo's this will show where the Lubricant is needed, Left to right: ---1st photo, shows frontal view of unit: ---2nd photo, shows rear view of unit: ---3rd photo, shows left side view, you can see the shafts driving Odometer: ---4th photo, shows the Point Where Lubrication is needed !!!! So, if you blow a light oil up through the cable Sheathing with the cable remove, useing compressed air, the Lubricant would get to where the Red Pen Is pointing, and where its needed. ---5th photo, With Red Pen, Indicating the Rotating Magnet ( I put one black line for identification ) ( at least I think its a magnet ) This rotates at the speed of the Input mechanical cable. ---- 6th Photo: Pointing to the Outer Pickup, this Only Moves as many Degrees Of Rotation, as the Indicator Needle moves. ( So this could not be the source of the loud noise ) ( This is marked with Two Black marker lines, in the 5th photo for identification ) Also, for those with 1st Gens that have never lubed their Speedo, Simply Remove the headlight assembly, you can reach up and Remove the Outer Speedo Cable Sheeth, from the threads shown in my photo's and with a long tipped Oil can, or WD-40 can its very Easy to apply some lubrication to this point. Anyway, after examining my spare unit, I can't see anything else that could cause the Loud Screech, would Almost have to be coming from this point. Unless its the cable itself. As to the speedo cable itself, I use heavy grease on mine, and Also shoot WD-40 with the grease, and lube it often, usually every year, whether it needs it or not.
  14. Freebird
    Yes...that will do away with the noise. Heck...who really needs to actually STOP anyway.
  15. Freebird
    WOW....now THAT is some good information. I'm pretty sure that it's not the same on the RSV though. I think they are the same any way that you turn them. Great catch on your part.
  16. Freebird
    Yes...it's pretty normal. Some folks have actually chamfered the front edge of the pads and said that it got rid of it. Mine eventually went away on its own for the most part. I still here is every now and then.
  17. Freebird
    The short answer is no. It will prevent any back feed from other circuits but will not protect your bike if there is a short circuit on the trailer.
  18. Freebird
    That is their better lift and will work great. You DO need some adapters though. Either some on your own or get Carbon One's adapter. I highly recommend his.
  19. Freebird
    No...it is a one person job. Just roll the lift under the bike with the bike on the side stand. You insert it from the right side of the bike so the bike is leaning away from you. I hold the handlebar and the passenger grab rail when I start lifting the bike just to steady it. As you jack it up, the bike will straighten up and sit on the jack. Very easy.
  20. Freebird
    I would think that they would work. I have RSTD mufflers on my RSV and they bolted right on.
  21. Freebird
    Here is the ultimate solution. Larry makes a great product and anybody who owns and RSV should have one of these. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=69&cat=7 In the meantime, you would need to makes some spacers to sit between the stand and your frame. Some folks have used wood, some have used hockey pucks.
  22. Freebird
    I've never tried them. I did try putting gel inserts in a stock seat one time and just wasn't impressed with it.
  23. Freebird
    I bought a new lift at Sears a couple of weeks ago. They were on sale for $69.95. May still be.
  24. Freebird
    Another thing you could do. Just run the rear tire up on a 2 x 5 board. That will give you about the lift you are talking about and then check the stand.
  25. Freebird
    On my RSV....it has not had any major effect. You have to realize that the 1" lift is measured at the back...probably only half that or less at the mid point where the stand is located. It has made no difference at all on my bike.
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