Freebird

I live in Oberlin, OH. Would be glad to sync you carbs if you want to ride up. It's only about 1 and a half to 2 hours. I'm on the road now though so it would be a couple of weeks before we could get together.

Folks....I am a firm believer that anybody who rides a RSV should have the Mic Mutes installed. They are simply fantastic. You can't imagine how much quieter your ride will be when you toggle off those microphones. The music sounds 100% better and the wind and engine noise is almost completely gone.

We headed for Arkansas later yesterday. Taking a LONG route and staying off all the superslabs. My route added a hundred miles or so to the trip but that's OK, much more pleasant ride. We only did about 275 miles yesterday and spent the night here in Kokomo, IN last night. We are getting ready to head out again and will probably only do about 350 miles today, again staying on the slower backroads, state highways, etc. Will probably end up somewhere around Quincy, IL tonight. Sunday we will do another 300-350 miles and that will put us down around the Arkansas border and only an hour or two from the Hub so we will probably pull in sometime around mid day on Monday. Just taking it easy and enjoying the ride.

No, it didn't happen for no reason. Here is what is happening. If somebody links to a large picture in their post, it causes the entire page to widen enough to show that picture. So some threads will do it and others will be normal. I have a hack installed that automatically resizes those pics that are too large. Then I got a PM from a member letting me know that some of the pictures that are automatically resized in the tech library open small even when you click on them. So, those pics in the tech library were useless. I have temporarily disabled my hack that resizes the pictures until I have time to fix the problem. It will probably be a couple of weeks because I'm on the road now headed to the rally. I will get it figured out ASAP though.

IN STOCK NOW. PLEASE GET YOUR ORDERS IN. The VentureRider Domed Decals are now available. They are the same size as the small patches, approximately 2.75" tall x 3.5" wide. These are very nice I think. The pictures do not do them justice. The silver part of the text and border has an almost chrome look. These are NOT just regular flat decals. They printed on a metallic silver vinyl so that the silver text and scroll work will have a metallic, somewhat chrome look. They are then domed with a clear poly that gives them somewhat of a 3D look. They will look great on the trunk of the bikes, your auto window, wherever you wish to use them. They are designed for outdoor use. I ordered 250 decals this time. If we end up needing more than that, I can order more later. I don't know WHEN I will be able to order more though. The price break came at 250 so if we are only 50, 100, etc. short...I will not order again until I think that there is demand for at least a couple of hundred. So...you can start ordering whenever you like. They will be $4.00 each and that includes shipping within in the USA or $4.50 each shipped to Canada. Payable via PayPal to dknelson@zoominternet.net Please make sure that you include your mailing address in your PayPal payment.

I am not a good photographer and the silver part of these is highly reflective...really looks like chrome and the flash really messes up the picture. Here is the best I was able to do.

Just happened to see these pics in the thumbails at the top of the page. This is one of your countrymen that came to visit last summer. Doesn't post often but a great guy. We really enjoyed it when he and his wife visited. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=695

OK folks...the decals have FINALLY arrived. I think they look fantastic and am sure you are going to like them. We are leaving sometime tomorrow and start making our way down to Arkansas. I plan to get them in the mail tomorrow morning before we leave for any of you who have already ordered. Any orders after today will not be shipped until we get back in a couple of weeks. I will bring some to the rally though.

WAY high for the condition you describe. There is an '89 for sale here that is VERY nice that you could buy for that price.

Oh...and I do agree with the other posters. I hope you heal quickly and we see you in Arkansas and WHY is an OLD FART like you playing baseball? I mean....I'm young enough to get by with it but YOU?????

well....it was KIND of funny...I mean...I grinned a LITTLE bit...

Don't know what else I can add but am really sorry to hear about the loss of your friend. It should be a reminder to all of us to live each day to the fullest. It sounds like he was doing that.

Well folks, I finally got an opportunity today to really take a good look at the Victory Vision. I was in Toledo, OH and stopped by Honda East in Maumee, OH to see if they had a trunk bag for the RSV. They sell Honda, Yamaha, Victory....I don't remember what else. They didn't have the trunk bag but they did have a new Vision inside and a demo sitting outside. I didn't ask to take it for a ride but I did sit on it and started it up. First impression was the same one I've already had and that was "WOW...this thing is really ugly". Second impression was when I sat on it and I have to say that it felt very comfortable. Ergonomics felts really good, seat felt great, lot's of room. Third....I lifted it off the side stand and thought WOW...this thing is really well balanced. It almost stands up by itself. Apparently a very low center of gravity and I'm thinking that it would handle very well. Fourth...saddle bags look HUGE until you open them. What a disappointment though when you do open them. About the size of a decent sized automobile glove compartment. I don't know WHAT they were thinking. Fifth..stereo sounds GREAT. Bigger speakers than the RSV and really sounds nice. Sixth..started it up and you can certainly tell that it's a V-Twin. Vibration is not as bad as a Harley but it certainly does vibrate. I actually like the vibration though as I do with the Harley. Probably smooths out nicely at speed. Lastly...WOW...it sure is ugly. Sorry...but regardless of the few positives...I just don't think I would ever be able to get over the ugly.

WOW....what a deal. You did good. Great looking bike.

The prayers will continue Rod. Having gone through it myself a few years ago, I know what you are probably going through right now. Please know that you and the rest of your family and friends are in our prayers.

Folks, here it is in a nutshell. There are three options on how this can be setup. We are currently using option 1 which works as Sleeperhawk says. The session timeout is set for 3 hours. I have decreased that before but got complaints from those of you who stay logged in but get detracted sometimes only to come back and find that you have been logged out. I've also tried changing this to one of the other options but got a lot of complaints that folks didn't like it as much. Don't remember exactly what it was that they didn't like though. This option controls how threads and forums are marked as read. Inactivity/Cookie Based - once a user has been inactive for a certain amount of time (the value of the session timeout option) all threads and forums are considered read. Individual threads are marked as read within a session via cookies. This option is how all versions of vBulletin before 3.5 functioned. Database (no automatic forum marking) - this option uses the database to store thread and forum read times. This allows accurate read markers to be kept indefinitely. However, in order for a forum to be marked read when all threads are read, the user must view the list of threads for that forum. This option is more space and processor intensive than inactivity-based marking. Database (automatic forum marking) - this option is the same as a previous option, but forums are automatically marked as read when the last new thread is read. This is the most usable option for end users, but most processor intensive.

Folks, here is the post for the original mugs that I ordered. I haven't seen much feedback on them but for me, it is about the best mug I have ever owned. It will keep coffee HOT for a good 4 hours or longer. If there is enough interest, I would be willing to place another order but I need to know for sure that there is enough interest. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25174&highlight=mugs

Yea, this thread was started in April of 2008 and obviously it did not happen. I was somebodies wish list, nothing from Honda. I don't think it's out of the question that we could someday see a Wing with some of those things but it didn't happen for '09 and not for '10. Here is the link to the 2010 Wing. http://powersports.honda.com/2010/gold-wing.aspx

I have one and love it. It comes with a new key blank. You have the key cut and then it epoxies into the cover through a small slot. I've had mine for several years now.

Thanks to Scott MacMartin from Ottawa Canada for this excellent article. 1984 Yamaha Venture Motorcycle Engine removal, repair, and re-installation Distance traveled since purchase 208,728 km (about 130,000 miles). This Venture was the second year of production, built January of 1984. My 1984 Venture was making a rumbling sound at idle, which went away if I pulled lightly on the clutch. I pulled the clutch cover off, and removed the clutch. It was apparent that the bearing behind this clutch was distressed. Late fall is a relatively nice time in Ottawa, Canada. Temperatures vary widely, from highs around 20 (70f) to highs barely above freezing. I put the bike in the back of the garage, borrowed my brother's 1500-watt heater, and set to replacing this bearing. The garage is now very pleasantly warm (and quiet too - I can hear my watch ticking). This is an excellent time of year to spend a bit of time in the garage with the Venture. First some tools. The Yamaha tool kit is useful, but not adequate for this job. I used the following additional tools: 1. Torque wrench (50 foot pounds) 2. Metric Allen key set 3. Feeler gauges 4. Hydraulic car jack with wheels (3000 pounds) 5. Socket set (10mm to 19mm) 6. 1000 pound press (homemade with 2by6 lumber) 7. Yamaha Shop service manual 8. Circlip pliers The engine can be removed in an afternoon, if you keep steady at it. Since my brain is not total recall, I place each part removed along the garage wall beside the last part I took off. That way re-assembly is just a matter of picking up a row of parts and bolting them back onto the bike. Clicking on the thumbnail photos will open a much larger copy of that photo. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/810a.jpgThe carbs, exhaust system, rear brake master cylinder, battery, and radiator have been removed. The bolts for the thermostat housing and the starter motor are a bit tight, and I have put WD40 on them. These bolts should remove easily tomorrow. A neighbor's child drops by to see what I am doing. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/811a.jpgThe bodywork has been removed, the YICS chamber, and the air deflector dams. Foot pegs and shift lever have been taken off. All of the engine attachment points (except three) have been removed. The small hydraulic jack with wheels will be used to lift and move the engine 2 feet to the waiting "pad". http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/813a.jpgThe engine has been out for 10 seconds or so. The engine rests on a piece of blue Styrofoam. It is apparent that the engine is also cosmetically not well - just have a look at that chrome cover on the clutch housing!! The radiator hoses are still attached. On re-assembly, I found it easier to put the radiator hoses on after the engine was in. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/814a.jpgI am working in a fairly small space - the back half of a one car garage. The blue and black boxes hold my tools. The floor has the parts, in order of removal - drive shaft, exhaust components, radiator assemblies, starter motor, and engine mounting hardware. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/815a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/816a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/817a.jpgSeveral photos of the failed bearing. You can see that the balls and race are perfectly fine, but the ball-bearings are all bunched to one side. The bearing cage has failed. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/818a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/819a.jpgThe oil sump has been removed. Two views of the oil pump. You can see small bits of the bearing retainer on the oil pump intake screen. Later, I found other pieces trapped in the baffles on the sump itself. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/820a.jpgThe various items that attach to the side of the motor are removed (stator, coolant and clutch housings, and the clutch slave cylinder). The oil pump is removed as a single unit, and is not disassembled. The crankcase bolts are loosened in order, and then removed. The crankcase easily pops in half. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/821a.jpgI have placed the shaft with the failed bearing in the top half of the crankcase for this photo. It is only now that I realize that a 2ton press will be needed to remove this bearing. It is a press fit onto the shaft!! This should be an amusing problem to solve. Perhaps I will sleep on it... http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/823a.jpgI set the shaft with the stubborn/broken/press fitted bearing aside in the kitchen while I wait for the new bearings to arrive from the dealer. Yamaha Canada is amazing. EVERY single part that I order is in stock in the central warehouse in Toronto, and will be here in three days. Nothing is back-ordered or out of production. It is hard to believe that I am ordering parts for a 16 year old motorcycle. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/824a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/825a.jpgThis is our first view of the upper crankcase. The shaft with the failed bearing is of course in the kitchen, so you cannot see it here. The rear shaft (the "driven" gear set) has two bearings that I will be replacing also. I will have to use a press to gain access to one of these bearings also. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/826a.jpgI now can guess why this clutch bearing failed. It is a standard ball bearing. However, unlike all the other ball bearings in this engine, this one ball bearing set must resist sideways thrust every time you pull on the clutch. I show here the clutch pushrod, the seals (I ordered new ones), and the bearing. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/827a.jpgThe shift mechanism has long seemed a confusing piece inside the motorcycle. I can understand its design when I look at it closely in real life, but in the photo it looks confusing once again. To me, a planetary gear set would seem a better way to provide gearing on motorcycles. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/831a.jpgThis is one of the covers that I cleaned up. The clear-coat applied by Yamaha back in 1984 had weathered a bit over the last 200,000km. This was removed with a paint remover that "removes epoxy paint". Does the job just fine!! Anything that I missed the first time comes off with a second application. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/832a.jpgIn areas that the cover had corroded, a gentle circular sanding with 400 grit wet sandpaper brought up a uniform appearance. I use soap with the sandpaper to keep the sandpaper from loading up. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/834a.jpgPolishing is a peculiar task. Place a small bit of polish on the rag, and then polish lightly until the polish dries out. At that point of dry friction, more vigorous polishing yields excellent results. I initially used a white shop cloth, but later used "White Swan absorbent and strong paper towels" with results just as good. (and I did not mind throwing these towels out after a single use!) http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/835a.jpgThese are the three products, and the most excellent result. I purchased a high temperature clear coat spray can used by the local Harley Canada dealer, and trust that it will provide an excellent long term protection. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/849a.jpgI went to the lumber yard, and for 5 bucks purchased a length of 2by6. Screwed it together, and drilled a hole of suitable size for the disassembly of this shaft. Note that the wheels on the jack are not supporting the force. A section of 2by6 is directly under the jack so that the jack does not try to move while under load. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/852a.jpgI push the shaft up effortlessly with the car jack, and the spring on this shaft compresses. The split washers appear, and it is a simple process to pull the split washers and disassemble the shaft. These two split washers, and the full washer behind them, were the cause of all that "second gear" grief in the 1983 and 1984 model years. I had replaced these split washers almost 100,000km ago when my second gear had failed and thought it might be a good idea to change them again. There was no need. Less that a thou had worn off these washers in those 100,000km (by comparison, the original split washers had worn half through in the first 105,000km, causing the second gear failure). http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/853a.jpgI have now replaced the bearing on this shaft, re-installed the spring and gear/bearing (the gear and upper bearing are a single unit and do not need to be disassembled). Apply a little force with the car jack to compress the spring, insert the washer and split washers. Release the car jack and the shaft is ready to go!! http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/854a.jpgThis same press was used to remove the failed bearing behind the clutch, and re-install the new one. The forces on this operation are significant - I would guess a thousand pounds force to push the bearing onto the shaft. While I replaced many items as part of this project, this one bearing was the only item that absolutely required replacement. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/855a.jpgThe cases drop together (with care to ensure that it IS easy, or something is out of place). Bolts on the lower cases and upper cases hold the two sides together firmly. I use Three Bond to ensure that the cases do not weep. You can see the 8 main crankcase bolts ready to be tightened. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/856a.jpgThe oil gallery has been dropped in place. The oil pump will be added after these bolts are tightened. Then the sump is put on, and the bottom of the engine is now completely assembled. I roll the engine up-side-up and torque the upper crankcase bolts to specification. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/860a.jpgThe clutch housing needs to be tightened onto the shaft that it rotates on. We will need a "special tool" to hold the basket from turning while we provide the correct tightening torque. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/861a.jpgOnce again, wood is my special tool maker. I drill a hole in the lumber so that I can fit the socket through, and fasten two arms (purchased for 29 cents each) so that they slide into the slots on the clutch basket. Then torque to 600 inch pounds, by far the highest torque of any bolt on this engine. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/862a.jpgThis is the setup. The torque is 50 foot pounds, so I use the empty frame of the Venture to hold the piece of lumber from turning. There is a lock tab under the bolt which must be bent over to ensure this bolt does not move. I bend it over with a screwdriver. I re-install the clutch plates, and torque down the pressure plate. The clutch housing can now be installed. The engine is ready to be re-installed in the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/863a.jpgI am very pleased at the appearance of the cams. They show no chipping, scoring, or other signs of stress. The exhaust valve clearances should be slightly higher than the intake valve clearances. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/864a.jpgA detailed examination shows the tolerances to be good. On the chart, some of the tolerances look "too tight" by half a thousandth of an inch. I am not going to replace a shim which is only half a thousandth of an inch out of range. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/866a.jpgThe valve covers need a little cosmetic refreshing as well. I ran these through the same process as the other covers, although I added "washing in the dishwasher" to get the crevices perfectly clean before spraying on the clear coat paint. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/868a.jpgThis multipart piece sits on top of the engine between the cylinders. It too needed shining up. On assembly, I used Three Bond to ensure that the part would not weep. (this part is normally sealed by two intricate O-Rings. The O-rings do their best, but are not quite up to the task on my Venture.) http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/870a.jpgThis multipart piece seems to do many tasks!! It has passages for coolant, sections for crankcase ventilation, and piping for high pressure oil to the cylinders. I will be happy to install this part and forget about it. I really hope it does not get an oil mist on it like it did over the last 100,000km http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/871a.jpgThis is the starter motor. If you remove the two long bolts, the motor comes apart for maintenance. The brushes are in excellent shape. This starter motor needed just a little cleaning up inside and out, and that's all. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/873a.jpgThe multipart piece is installed. The cam covers are being installed. The cam covers get new gaskets, and new "seals" around each of the bolts. These seals have never been previously replaced which is perhaps why they misted oil onto the cam cover. This task could normally be done with the engine "in" the frame, although it is vastly easier to accomplish with the engine "out" http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/874a.jpgThe engine is ready to install!! http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/877a.jpgThis is a task that I am a little apprehensive about. I am not exactly a strong man, and I am nearly 50 years old. This engine will have to be balanced on the jack and then kept balanced while I move the jack under the frame. The back end of the engine must go in first, since the drive shaft part must fit into the swing arm. Once that is in place, the engine can be straightened out and bolted in place. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/879a.jpgThe drive shaft part is nicely in the swing arm, and the engine can now be straightened out. I have lifted and lowered this engine a number of times by a quarter of an inch or so while I maneuver it around the various obstacles. Even so, I break a small tab on the upper fairing. I will repair this break later with a thin aluminum sheet. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/882a.jpgThe engine is back in!! I have held it with two bolts at the rear of the engine and an incorrect temporary bolt at the front of the engine. I am so relieved that this step has been successful that I stop for an early Saturday lunch. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/884a.jpgInstallation of the starter motor, and the oil filter (I use an aftermarket spin on filter for convenience). You can see the "incorrect bolt" just above the starter motor, which is temporarily holding the motor in place. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/885a.jpgThe coolant system gets installed, with new o-rings all around (the coolant system would occasionally weep a bit when left overnight. I had purchased the seals about a year ago but had not "got around to" replacing them.) The radiator sits ready to be installed next. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/886a.jpgThe radiator is in and filled with 50% aluminum antifreeze and 50% distilled water. The right frame tube needs to be installed next. This frame tube is one of the few parts that requires "Loctite Blue" when assembling. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/887a.jpgHere is a task that I have not ever done!! I have never opened the top of the rear master cylinder and cleaned it out. Turns out there is a little diaphragm (just like in the handlebar units) that could use a little cleaning. Bled this rear brake, the clutch system, and the front brake. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/888a.jpgHere is the jack that Scott used. Also the heater which made this job so relaxing and comfortable. On the heater sits the air cleaner box which has just been de-greased. And to the right on the floor, a large socket used to adjust the swing arm pivot bearings. Well, this is the end of the photo story. The rest of the bike needs to be put together. And then I expect to drive many, many years. I will let you know at 300,000km....

That surprises me a bit. I am not aware of two different sets from Yamaha. I do remember long ago seeing some in the JC Whitney catalog from some other company but they were as much as the ones from Yamaha and I've never seen them on a bike. Hopefully somebody here will have a better answer for you. Congrats on nearing the completion. I hope to see some pictures of it here soon.

Well....you had the courage to do what many of us have wanted to at times. I can't say that I think it was a great idea considering the trouble you could have gotten into but I can certainly understand WHY you did it. Glad things turned out as they did.

Nate, I'm really sorry to here this. I've been around you enough to know that your kids are your number one priority and I have much respect for you for that. I know you are going through a tough time but please know that with or without the bike, you are one of us and we will be here for you if you let us. Take care my friend. Don

Yes you can. You could also still use your cassette adapter but you need to have the audio system set on cassette and NOT auxiliary if you do it that way. You will get better results though if you go directly into the Aux jack and do NOT use the cassette adapter. Just run a 1/8" stereo patch cable from the headphone jack of your MP3 player to the aux jack beside the cassette.

Come on folks....PLEASE do not turn a thread about air horns into politics. It WILL get deleted. One of our very few rules here...NO politics.