Freebird

I agree that Ohio vehicles seem to fare worse than a lot of other states. That's why I typically won't take the bike out after the first salting of the season and until after the first few rains in the spring. It is also hard to avoid rust if you are buying a used vehicle here. I'm not surprised that the rust was worse than it appeared. That seems to be the case most of the time. If you can actually see it, what you can't see behind it is typically worse. It looks like you did OK with the purchase though. I've looked at used trucks over the past few months and am always shocked at what people think they are worse. I see trucks with close to and over 200,000 miles on them and "very little rust" advertised and they some folks want $15,000 and UP for them. If I can see rust, it's NOT worth that kind of money regardless of the miles.

There is another riser that RSV owners here have used. I don't remember the brand but I think they were sold by Baron's. If you can find them and compare, then that might give you an idea.

I will try to get a good measurement later. I'm guessing about an inch. I can tell you that it makes a HUGE difference whatever it is. I have room to move them more should I need to but really don't think I need to. I should add that they are probably an 1 1/2" higher also. That along with the pullback makes a big difference. I no longer feel that I am reaching at all.

The pictures posted here in this thread are of his '18 Star Venture. I can tell by the mufflers for one thing. Of course, the picture also shows the belt drive on the right side rather than the shaft drive on the left side as the '99 - '13 Royal Star Venture has. If the car tire is actually slightly taller than the stock motorcycle tire, then the little difference it makes on the speedo would be a good thing. So, as you state, what needs to be determined is whether or not the 205/55R16 will fit. These bike's speedometers, as will most Yamahas, actually show you to be going slightly faster than you really are. Yes, I have confirmed that with a GPS. On the '99 - '13 RSV, the speedo reads about 8% high. I haven't actually calculated the speedo no the '18 but I know that it reads at least a little faster than you are actually moving. I admit that .11 inch lower would probably be fine but it would further through the speedometer off, even though very slightly. The larger tire would be better all the way around it if will clear.

I took a hard look at that and there is really no easy way to do it. The backrest bolts through a steel support that is welded to the trunk bracket. It would take some major fabricating, cutting, welding to move it.

This may or may not help. It is in the tech library. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?499-Headset-Pin-Out-Diagram

I'm about 6'2" tall, maybe a bit more. I have long legs and long arms. I buy tall shirts with arm lengths 36-37". When I get on the road, I am typically leaned way back against the backrest with my feet out on the highway pegs. With stock handlebars, and it was also true on my RSV as well as the '13 HD Road Glide Ultra that I had for a couple of years, I get severe pain in my shoulders. Mostly the back of my left shoulder. With more pullback, that is almost completely alleviated and I can do an iron butt with very little problem. Here are some pictures. Hopefully, they will help a bit. It took me literally 10 to 15 minutes to install them and get them adjusted as I wanted them. They actually provide more pullback than the Flanders bars that I had on the '99 RSV or the RSTD bars that I had on the '05 RSV and certainly more than the bars that I installed on the Ultra Classic. These risers are about as perfect as they can be for me. A couple of the pictures who the gas compartment fully opened with the handlebars at full lock. I suppose if you rotated them down further, it could cause an issue but I set these where I liked them before even reading about the issues with the gas compartment door interfering. Then I went to check and found that mine doesn't hit at all. I have gassed up a couple of times since installing them and there is no problem at all.

I've never really given Darksiding a chance. I did put one on my '05 Royal Star Venture but the recommended size tire fit fine but the overall height was different than the stock motorcycle tire and lowered the bike about an inch. I got it from a friend and it was already mounted on a wheel so I put it on, took one ride around 4 miles, took it back off and went with another motorcycle tire. Had it been the correct height, I would have given it a chance. I had the leveling links on the '05 to raise the rear of the bike an inch. The car tire lowered it an inch so I was right back where I started and wanted the rear of the bike raised again. So, I guess what I'm saying is that I would be somewhat willing to try darksiding on the '18 ONLY if there was a tire that does not lower the rear end. Art commented that his speedometer was dead on with his tire so that tells me that it is not as tall as the stock tire. That is an immediate disqualifier for my use. Unless I am thinking backward and the tire size and speedo correlation. I'm thinking that may be the case. I know that in years past, when I put larger tires on my 4X4 trucks, they would cause me to go faster than the speedometer indicated. Since the bike indicates a higher speed than you are actually traveling, maybe a smaller tire would actually add some speedometer correction. Doesn't matter though, I still don't want the rear end lowered.

I haven't seen any yet but haven't really looked either. On my RSV's, I went with louder mufflers. I've tried Samson, Harley, Bubs, and Khromewerks. I think the Khromewerks were the highest quality of any of them. In the end though, the noise started getting to me and I ended up going back to stock mufflers. I actually like the sound of the stock mufflers on the '18. I have no plans to change mine. I'm sure that if there are not some already out there, there will be soon. I wouldn't expect a lot of choices though. The aftermarket doesn't seem to come out with a lot of accessories and/or performance goodies for the Yamahas.

Wish I could answer your questions. I never used them on the RSV, changed the handlebars instead. I recently put them on my new 2018 Star Venture though and love them. They give you a pretty good range of adjustment and much easier than changing the bars. I have no regrets at all.

Well, you don't say what he wants for it nor the year model. The pictures indicate it to look like "new" condition and that is more important to me than the actual year model. Hard to tell exactly what options it has but from the website, it looks to be around $2200.00 new with the obvious options. That would be for a black or white model. They don't say what the upcharge is for other colors. There would probably be shipping on top of that also. A custom color could add to it by a fair bit but if it is not the color that you need, the red is actually a deduction. For example, if you need a black one and have to get it painted, that is a few hundred dollars more that you will have to spend. Also the condition of the tires. If they are worn then you have to figure that in. In my opinion, the used price on that trailer if it actually is in NEW condition and doesn't need tires and the red paint matches your bike, then I would be willing to pay as much as $1500.00 to $1750.00 for it. If it is in that condition but you are going to have to get it painted, then you may as well buy a new one. If you paid $1750.00 for it and then had to get it painted, you would likely have the price of a new one invested at that point. From what you are indicating, I'm assuming he is higher than that on it. Bottom line. If I were in the market and it was the correct color, I would pay the 1500 to 1750. If I were going to have to get it painted, then it wouldn't be worth more than about $1250 to me. That might change if I felt I could put my own quality paint job on it but I'm not a good painter and that trailer deserves a quality paint job.

I was right about them being based in Oklahoma but apparently wrong about them being out of business. They are also a bit cheaper than what I thought. I like them. http://motorcycletrailer.com/lee/

I can tell you that my 2013 Road Glide Ultra did not have the cats in the mufflers.

I really like those trailers. I think the original of that style were made somewhere down in Oklahoma. Can't remember what it was called but I think the work Donkey was part of it. They were NOT an inexpensive trailer. In my opinion, it would probably bring anywhere from $1500.00 - $2250.00. I'm really just guessing though.

I agree that it's a fantastic bike. I'm not worried about any issues as the warranty will take care of it should they pop up. Like any mechanical equipment, there will be an occasional issue but I've read of very very few. This bike has everything I could ask for in a new bike and is an absolute joy to ride.

Well, that description pretty much disqualifies my theory. Sorry.

You didn't say if you switch to reserve when it happens? I've seen some of these bikes where you actually have to switch to reserve before the light comes on. It happened on my '99 and my '05. I always suspected that it was because I had the leveling kit on it. With the rear raised higher, I suspect that it threw off the level of fuel in the gas tank as related to the reserve tube. If so, it would be the same scenario if you lowered the front. The other thing is the actual fuel tube. Did your dealer actually pull the petcock? Most bikes either have a single tube that is divided into regular and reserve levels or two tubes with the reserve tube being shorter. If there is some sediment in the bottom of the tank, it could be blocking the reserve tube. I know it starts running again but I've had fuel filters that were plugged and acted the same way. Once it started sucking gas through the filter, it would soften up enough to let gas pass and it would run. Just thinking out loud. Could be none of those things.

I actually like the idea of putting it behind the right cover. Easy to take on and off but not nearly as likely to be stumbled upon as the side compartments. May or may not put the code there also though. Not sure I want them both in the same place. On the other hand, very few people would know what it meant our how to do it.

Yes, I did read it. My response was really not meant for you, just a general thought about us needing to keep the key in such a place as you that is accessible and not in a locked trunk or something. I should have been more clear but it is also why I didn't "quote" your post in my response.

I did look a the manual and it absolutely says to add the oil in the crankcase and then the oil tank. So, that is what I will do. It also says to run it several minutes and then check again but that has always been routine for any oil change that I've done. It all seems simple enough. Hope the noise you are hearing is nothing major.

PDF file of owner's manual that comes with the bike. Owner's Manual

I'll admit that is a bit disconcerting. Sure sounds like it has something to do with changing the oil. I haven't changed mine yet and haven't looked at the service manual for the correct procedure. I've gotten mixed explanations about what should be a simple thing. I saw a post here about having to add oil in a couple of different places and then waiting a certain amount of time and adding more and etc. The service technician where I bought my bike told me that though there are three plugs that have to be removed to drain the oil, you can add all the new oil to the main fill reservoir. He seemed bright and knowledgeable but I'll study it and do it however the manual specifies.

Unless your saddlebag is locked. If you lose your key and the bags are locked, how would you get to the emergency starting procedure without the key? That's also why I will be writing down or memorizing that code. With my memory lately, writing it down somewhere and keeping it in my wallet is the best option. Probably just write in on the YES card that I will keep in my wallet as soon as I get it laminated.

Great video and suggestion. I will try it later today. I'm also going to copy this to the tech library.

I have the ones for the 3/4 or open face helmet. Mine have the plugin RCA type mic. I think I bought them before the Thunderspeakers were available so can't say how good they are. I removed the speakers anyway because we use earbuds. http://www.edsets.com/3g-headset-for-3-4-open-face-helmets.php