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Venturous Randy

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Everything posted by Venturous Randy

  1. I also had the tail wag 1 up from about 65 on. Other than that, I loved the Venoms. I now run a Venom on the front and an E-3 on the back and believe this is the best handling set up for my 83. I have put about 150,000 miles on this bike and have tried several brands of tires. RandyA
  2. Changeover to updated thrush washer was 1985, ser# 1413. RandyA
  3. Yeah, this has caused me to double post. RandyA
  4. I don't remember where I was, but there was a lot of bikes. I had this kid, probably around 12, walk right up to me and boldly ask me "why are you not riding a Harley?". I turned around and boldly looked him in the face and told him, "I like to ride too much" he asked, "what does that mean"? I told him that "I would rather be riding the bike, than having to work on it". I wonder what he told his dad? RandyA
  5. For many years I have been running the cheap harbor Freight air horns. I have bought several sets over the years and with extra compressors, I use one for each side. I have them run through a solonoid to the battery, so they get good power. They have lasted very well and when one quits working right, I just replace it. I painted the orange horns black, so I just switch them. I only live a mile or so from Harbor Freight, so stuff like this is easy for me. RandyA
  6. As part of my brake upgrade to MKII forks, rotors and R1 calipers, I want to do something with the antidive system. It is my understanding that if I block off the antidives, it only affects the fork travel at the very bottom of the stroke. I already have Progressive springs and even with no spacer at the top, it eliminated any bottoming out problems I had before. I know the MKII antidive solenoids would be easy to wire up, but if not needed, I don't want to add any more electrical draw while stopped. For those that have blocked off the antidives, is there any negative concerns? RandyA
  7. I am in the process collecting parts for converting my 83 to MKII forks, rotors and R1 calipers. I am currently running EBC HH on the bike, but with the changeover, I don't think I want the grabiness of the HH's. I think I may have better control and suffient braking with something less agressive, especially if I delink. Good question. RandyA
  8. I think it is doing very good with all the tweaks you have done to it. I like the map being back, but I did like to be able to look at the Members List by state as it was before. RandyA
  9. I had a guy looking at the various louvered vents on the bike and ask me if it had air conditioning. I told him "yeah" and always wondered what he told his friends. RandyA
  10. This happens a lot. When posting and something pops up similar from the archive posts, some people just run with it. I always try to look at the starting date of the post, but sometimes I miss it too. Some posts are not that date sensitive as they may still pertain to current issues, but one like this, not so much. Maybe if more original posters would do a better followup on their questions, it would help. It does surprise me sometimes how many posts can go on before someone mentions the original date of the thread. RandyA
  11. My suggestion is to go with Progressive front springs and you can leave the air pressure at zero for the front forks. RandyA
  12. Wow, this one of those things that you can't do a lot of planning for. So sad. Since this happened over two months ago, Oct 1st, what happened to the truck driver? Was he charged with anything that has him in jail? RandyA
  13. It's offical then, don't log out! RandyA
  14. Oh, one other thing. If you have not replaced your fuel filter in a while, now is a good time to do it. RandyA
  15. It should work, but you will also have to use the 83/85 driveshaft. You would also need to do a good lube job on the shaft splines everytime you change the rear tire. RandyA
  16. You will get some rattle while on the centerstand with the bike running in gear due the the u-joint being at a higher angle than normal. RandyA
  17. Since you already have the rear wheel off, it only takes a couple of minutes to take the four nuts off the final drive and pull it off and then you will know. RandyA
  18. I have a concern you are lugging the bike. RandyA
  19. You just described the conditions of a broken pinion nut. If this is the case, you will do better to pick up another final drive, which you can find pretty cheap on ebay. There are also several V-Max final drives as low as $89 with free shipping. I have never heard of a broken pinion nut on an MKI, but I have seen sevaral on an MKII. I have also never heard of one on a 2nd gen. RandyA
  20. Do you mean you want to disassemble the final drive or remove it? Unless you have a seal that needs replacing, I would not take it apart if I removed it from the bike. If you have the bike on the center stand with the front wheel off, make sure you have a strap or something pulling the center stand forward so it can not collapse on you. The driveshaft does not go into the transmission, it goes into a U-joint. Unless I missed something, what is the problem with the bike other than replacing tires? Do you think you have something broken? RandyA
  21. I joined the other site before I found this one and was on for a couple of years. At that time, it seemed they were more down than up. Not sure exactly when I joined this one, but it was a couple months before Vogal I. I was here before the big crash and have been happy ever since. RandyA
  22. I would not do a rebuild on a MKI 83/85 engine. For what it would cost you, you should be able to find a good MKII engine that will fit. This will also eliminate any future 2nd gear issues. If I were going with a used MKI engine, I would split the case and put a 2nd gen Venture transmission in it and then a V-Max final drive. I think you would be very happy with the results. RandyA
  23. I painted mine many years ago and it is Twilight Royal Plum. I still get a lot of compliments on it. It also has lighter colored ghost flames. This bike has about 170,000 miles on it. RandyA
  24. Obviously, the biggest problem with using a wrap is weathering. Given that probably 95% of the time, your trailer will be stored in a shaded, dry environment. Given this, it may be a good candidate for a wrap. RandyA
  25. I used to have mine in the left side, but moved it to the top of airbox. RandyA
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