Jump to content

Venturous Randy

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6,488

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Venturous Randy

  1. Venturous Randy
    Got the engine out this morning. That was a major job in itself. Even though I drained the oil and took the bottom bolt out of the gear case cover, I still had a half quart oil run out of the engine when I turned it over. And a lot of coolant. When I took the oil pan off, the first thing that I noticed was the large o-ring that is where the oil pipe goes back into the engine was blown out. It looked like an orange worm sticking up out of the side of the pipe. I looked at the engine lubrication system in the manual and this is a MAJOR part of the oil feeding system. When I split the case I still had something holding it and it turned out to be the clutch slave cylinder. Got that taken care of and it came apart. My first inspection was to look very closely to see if it appeared that any gears had been floating and banging against each other causing the rattle. Could not tell. I did find a visually bent fork that could have contributed to misalignment. I also believe it was not the 2nd gear fork, but I will recheck. Given my concern on gear mesh, I measured the two shims at the large bearing that is near the gear case cover. Both gear sets appeared to have identical shim thickness. That made me feel a little better. With the gear sets in place, I also pushed the output angled gear in( the one with the U-joint) and the slack seemed about the same on both units and about the same as it was when I took it apart. The real test will be when everything is torqued in place. Given my concern with possible oil pressure related problems due to the blown o-ring, I not only looked at the crankshaft bearing surface, but also took a rod cap off and looked at that bearing. All looked amazingly good for an engine with 108,000 miles on it, oil pressure problem or not. One other concern with this o-ring is these engines have oil pressure activated timing chain tensioners. It is the oil pressure that causes the chain tensioner to take up any slack in the chain with a little piston that pushes on the chain tensioner. If it was running with very low oil pressure, and it believe I was, the noise could have been coming from the timing chain not being tight. And, when the bike was leaned over on the side stand, the chain may have been trying to climb up on the teeth. One interesting point on the 1300 2nd gear dogs, they are undercut. The base of the dogs is visually more narrow than the top of the dogs. It actually appears that both sides of the dog is tapered inward, so that would help in both accelerating and coasting down. I have not been able to determine if the female side of 5th gear, the matching gear is also undercut. At this point I am confident I am doing what is needed. Even though the bike was not jumping in 2nd gear under wide open throttle, or pulling a 450 pound camper, it had jumped a couple of times under downshifting at a bit high RPM. So I know I was on the verge of having thrust washer wear problems. My 1200 engine also had the plastic water pump impeller, so I am changing that out. In fact, all the gaskets came apart without tearing, except for the water pump housing gasket, and both engines tore at the same points. The Yamaha shop in the next town over has one in stock for about $5. The local shop near my house does not carry anything. I think I will also replace the clutch rod seal. I am also going to do a quick check on the valve clearances since I have good access. So, at this point, I feel pretty good about everything and am anxious to get it back together and put a few miles on it before taking off to Vogal pulling the camper. I just hope what I am doing will take care of the rattle. If anyone has any other suggestions or comments, they are appreciated. RandyA
  2. Venturous Randy
    The one off the 1300 looks fine. If you want it just let me know where to send it and it will be on the way. Got to keep these Tennessee 1st gens on the road. Either PM me or call me at 423-726-0431. RandyA
  3. Venturous Randy
    Hey trucker, are you going to be around Johnson City, TN any time in the near future? I just diassembled a 1300 and as far as I know the oil filter canaster is ok. I will look in the morning and let you know. RandyA
  4. Venturous Randy
    I should have it out tomorrow. All the gear stuff out of the 1300 engine looks real good. It is just a shame that the cylinder bores were so pitted from where it had gotten rained in before I got it. If everything goes good, I think I will double check the valve clearances and maybe chain guide condition. I will also check if mine has the plastic impeller in the water pump. I may also try to get my solid motor mounts made and change them, or at least the rear ones. Anyway, I hope by tomorrow evening I will be able to give a good update on what the problem is. It would be something if the thrust washer was worn out and with the undercut that I did on 2nd gear, it never jumped one time under a lot of load. RandyA
  5. Venturous Randy
    Is your kill switch off? Run a big wire, like a battery cable from the positive on the battery to the post on the starter(make sure it is in neutral). This by-passes the solenoid. Let us know if this worked. RandyA
  6. Venturous Randy
    Wow Condor, That's the first time I have seen an original Yamaha XVZ1200 key. Thanks, RandyA
  7. Venturous Randy
    I will add something else to think about on multi viscosity oil. For many years I was led to believe that 10w40 oil acted like 10w oil when it was cold and than had the viscosity of 40w oil when it was hot. It was then explained to me by someone that seemed to know a lot about oil viscosities that the way to think about oil and viscosities is like thinking about different size ball bearings. 10w oil has very small ball bearings, and therefore flows very easy in a restricted space and 40w oil has much larger ball bearings and flow much slower in a restricted space. When you mix the two different ball bearing sizes together, you will get the positive effect of oil flow when cold by the smaller ball bearings moving easier, but with the larger ball bearings mixed in you will still have the thickness of film coverage that is the positive aspect of the thicker oil. Now, I am not saying that this is absolutely true, but it sure made sense to me and I believe the theory has validity. Comments welcome. BTW, my 83 did not do good with Amsoil motorcycle oil. I thought I had an old Harley with all the oil leaks that cropped up. RandyA
  8. Venturous Randy
    Tim, I did pull the gear cover off last night and check the retainer bolts. I was hoping they were loose, but they were not. That would have been an easy fix. Thanks for your comments. Once I get this thing apart, I will let you know what I found. RandyA
  9. Venturous Randy
    Thanks Squeeze as this is exactly the type comments I was hoping for. As I said, it has been over eight years since I had mine apart. It also makes a big difference to me that at that time I had virtually no other help in doing this. The local Yamaha shop was absolutely clueless about anything about these transmissions. I did have a local independent cycle shop that would occasionally redo these transmissions by replacing everything and he was the one that suggested the undercut that I did on 2nd gear because he was doing this on some race bikes. The other big difference now is I have you guys. Then, I did not have a computer nor Internet. I am hoping that anyone that has done a 1300 trans swap into a 1200 will jump in with their experiences. Also, since I do not actually know what is causing the rattle, it might be something I could fix and keep the 1200 gear set. I would though replace the thrust washer. RandyA
  10. Venturous Randy
    It is basically square cut gears in a Yamaha. RandyA
  11. Venturous Randy
    Rule number one on going on center stand: make sure that the bike is in neutral. RandyA
  12. Venturous Randy
    Squeeze, you have made some good points. First of all, the difference in the drive shaft is on the differential end. The drive shaft is inserted more into the differential and therefore is about an inch longer. This was part of the lube change. In the engine , the drive shaft area appears to be the same on the 1200 and 1300. As you noted, the shims is there for gear lash, but basically this is for gear and housing variation in machining from one unit to the other, just typical production variation. As far as there being sudden catastrophic failure, this is not likely, because if there are gear lash problems, it will generally cause more of a whine than anything. That is unless it was loaded way too tight and cause a bearing failure. But again, that is what the slack is for. I have been involved in racing and high performance cars all my life and have "been there, done that" dealing with differential set ups. You made a good point in replacing the 2nd gear fork. I had to straighten the one in the 1200 about eight years ago when I did the undercut on 2nd gear and 5th gear. It was actually bent from where 2nd gear had been jumping and I redid mine probably a lot earlier than some of these guys have. I actually plan on changing all the shifting mechanism from the 86 engine. The shims that I do not remember seeing on the 1200 engine are on the inside of the bearing you can see when you take off the side gear cover. This appears to set the relationship of the gear axle that have 2nd and 5th slide. They may be there and I just don't remember them. That was about eight years ago. When splitting the case, I did remember there was one more thing that had to be removed before it would come apart that the manual does not show and that is the three Phillips head screws holding the bearing cap on under the clutch basket. Thanks for the input. RandyA
  13. Venturous Randy
    As I noted in an earlier post, I have had a rattle in the engine when it is tilted over on the side stand. I have come to the conclusion that is gear related because if I tilt the bike over and then put it in gear, the rattle stops. Therefore I did a tear down on my 86 1300 engine and I think I will use the entire gearset out of it. I would just rebuild the engine, but there are some pretty deep pitting in the cylinder bores on a couple of cylinders, so I guess I will stay with my 1200 engine. A concern I have switching out the gearsets is there are shims on the side of the bearing that is at the 90 degree set of gears that go out the rear of the engine. Actually there are shims near where the u joint is and also shims on the inside of the bearing where the little gear cover is. I know that these shims are what set the engagement at that 90 degree angle. I have not compared the shims from my 1200 engine because I have not got it out yet. I guess I could put it together and see how much free play that I have. I am wondering if this has anything to do with the thrust washer being worn out again, but I have yet to have any skipping during acceleration or pulling hard in 2nd gear since I did the gear undercut about 60,000 miles ago. I have had it skip a couple of times during high rpm 2nd gear deceleration. This was also with pulling a 450 pound camper up and down mountains. For those of you that are not aware, I did not replace the thrust washer with the newer, harder and thicker replacement because I did not know the new one had been upgraded. This was about eight years ago or more. I just flipped it over. It has so far given me 50% more miles than the original set up did. So, is there anyone out there that has done an entire gear change out and had gear mesh concerns? Good or bad, I would like to hear from you. I need to get this all done soon because I want to do it before I go to Vogal and that is coming up fast. Muffinman, I think you are right in your earlier comments. Is there anything in particular that I need to look for? RandyA
  14. Venturous Randy
    That should be half full with the bike on the center stand. RandyA
  15. Venturous Randy
    The bore and stroke on a 1200 is 76mm X 66mm. What is a 1300? I spent the evening taking the 1300 engine apart that I have had for a long time and it don't look too good. I knew it probably had some rust in the bores because it had been left out in the rain uncovered for a while and it was froze up. I split the case and ended up taking the crank out so I could hammer the pistons to the bottom of the bore and clean the cylinder walls some before knocking them out. It looks like if I am going to use this block I will have to bore it and go with bigger pistons. I really don't think this is what I want to do. RandyA
  16. Venturous Randy
    Looks neat, but it also looks like you are going to have a lot of tongue weight. Is there anyway you could move the axles forward about a foot or two? Looks to me like you may need it. RandyA
  17. Venturous Randy
    In the valley under the carbs there is an oval cover that if leaking internally can contaminate the oil/water. This has been reported several times this year from riders who thought they had a head gasket leaking. RandyA
  18. Venturous Randy
    My 83 came with the stock tall one that I polished up like a new one. I am short with a shortened Corbin seat so I look thru mine. I like it best that way, but again, mine is polished like a new one. RandyA
  19. Venturous Randy
    Can I assume that in changing the wire that you also changed the cap? I say this because the caps have a resistor in them that can get corroded and cause a dead cylinder. RandyA
  20. Venturous Randy
    The biggest problem with an intermitten gauge has been the connection on the pickup signal. I have fixed several of these and all it took was taking the seat off and cleaning and recrimping the spade connection so it is tight on the blade. I bet that if you did the same thing that it will fix your problem. RandyA
  21. Venturous Randy
    You followed your wife with her flashing you, am I on the right website? RandyA
  22. Venturous Randy
    If you want a tire that is quite and handles good at low speeds, the Avons are nice. But I, along with several others, have had some serious concerns with the Avon Venom X at speeds over 70mph. At 100 mph, I was real close to being in the "death wobble". I have reduced the air pressure some and I believe it is better at 70/80 mph, but I just don't go that fast anymore with these tires. The Metzler 880E's were much more stable at speed. RandyA
  23. Venturous Randy
    Hey Steve, I started to call you this morning and see if you were going to be home today. I wanted to bring Laura over to meet you and Theresa. We ended up riding over into NC and back. RandyA
  24. Venturous Randy
    I have not taken the time to really try to pin point the engine rattle. It has been doing it for a long time as I noted, probably for at least 10,000 miles. Like I said, it only does it when the bike is leaning on the side stand, as when I straighten the bike up, it goes away. I also changed the collector this past weekend and nothing changed as far as the rattle. I am more inclined to think it might be timing chain related, more than gear related. Also, when I lean it left as far as I can in neutral, it does not have any jumping that I have noticed. I have an 86 1300 engine with 46,000 miles on that sat outside for awhile with the carbs off and it is locked up. I have taken the pan off and looked in the bottom and it looks real good and clean. I am thinking about pulling the heads and seeing what it looks like from that end. I might just need a hone job and some new rings and maybe a valve job. RandyA
  25. Venturous Randy
    If your clutch is not releasing good, it will be more difficult to get into neutral. And conversely, if your clutch is releasing real good, it can be more difficult to get in gear while stopped, as the gears are floating free, and the dogs are not lining up with the slots. What you will notice is if you let out slightly on the clutch, it will go in gear, because the dogs and slots move past each other. RandyA
×
×
  • Create New...