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Venturous Randy

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Everything posted by Venturous Randy

  1. Venturous Randy
    I have never understood why people want to run higher octane than what an engine is designed for. Had a friend that had an old Tauraus that he ran premium in. He was convinced the gas was cleaner and his engine ran better. I run reg in my 83 and will ocassionally put midgrade in it if I am pulling my 450lb camper thru the mountains, but I probably do not need to do that. Running premium will also make an engine run hotter as the slower burn tends to saturate the cylinder walls more with heat. RandyA
  2. Venturous Randy
    The chamber can crack and the hoses get rotten. Any leaks tend to be major ones and cause sync problems. RandyA
  3. Venturous Randy
    Open the gas lid and remove the screw between the filler and seat. Once the screw is out, push the cover forward and lift it up. You will see the battery under the cover. You are going to get a lot of information tossed your way and if it does not make sense to you, ask more questions. Unless you have a lot of money to pay someone else to work on your bike, or screw it up, just keep in mind that these old bikes are not for the faint of heart, or mechanically challenged. RandyA
  4. Venturous Randy
    Tim, a biggie on carbs being out of sync is hoses or box leaking on the YICS. I took all that off mine and plugged the tubes and my 83 ran a lot better. RandyA
  5. Venturous Randy
    The only copper washer on that side of the engine is in the 6:00 position on the middle gear cover. The stator cover does not have any holes that drain, therefore no copper washers. RandyA
  6. Venturous Randy
    Wow thumper, you must be on some really good stuff!!! RandyA
  7. Venturous Randy
    OK, being the devil's advocate here. There have been problems with the pinion nut breaking off and under accelaration loading and being quite, but under coast, it causes too much gear mesh. I would be suspicious of a LOUD whine under decellaration. RandyA
  8. Venturous Randy
    If you have not put gas in it yet, I would drain the old gas out and put a couple of gallons of fresh gas in and at least a half can or more of SeaFoam. After you run it a little, then fill it up with gas and put new plugs in. RandyA
  9. Venturous Randy
    Hey Lew, when you get there, tell them you skipped a year with this bunch because of the way the Rangers treated us year before last. But, if they were full, it probably did not matter anyway. RandyA
  10. Venturous Randy
    Shame you are not near east Tennessee. We have several around here. RandyA
  11. Venturous Randy
    Man, that is one big ditch!! Great pictures and would love to see it one day. RandyA
  12. Venturous Randy
    Sure glad you got thru this event safely and it appears you did not hurt your rim. Sometimes it's tough making memories. RandyA
  13. Venturous Randy
    Yeah, this has been nine months. A lot can happen in that amount of time. Did I miss something in another post? RandyA
  14. Venturous Randy
    OK, let me throw you another curve here, how sure are you of your tire gauge being correct? I ask this because I have seen several of the gauges 10% off or more. If you are off that much and running 40psi on the gauge, you may be closer to 35psi and that will definately cause cupping and reduced tread life. This would be a good maintenance day or M&E project for someone to bring a tire gauge that has been calibrated and do comparisons with other gauges. RandyA
  15. Venturous Randy
    First of all, these transmissions do not have syncronizers like a car transmission. Therefore there will be a "meshing" of gears when engaged. Whenever you are shifting from neutral to first, especially when cold, give the throttle a quick blip with the clutch pulled in before putting it in gear. What this does is break loose the clutches as they are stuck together. Another thing is to move the shifter quickly and firmly. Do not move it slowly as it will just cause the "dogs" on the side of the gears to grind into the matching gear, rather than to just engage. I am not sure what you consider "really rev it up", but it sounds like you are making this more difficult than it should be. Even when I am loafing around, I am still probably at 2,000 rpms, but usually closer to 2,500 with ocassionally shifts in the 8,000 rpm range. It is also common for me and many others on here to not even use the clutch when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and up. I usually do not shift from 1st to 2nd without the clutch. When not using the clutch it is usually a very smooth "click" and if you did not hear the rpm change, you would not know I shifted, but it does take a little practice. Ocassionally I will get the thrashing of gears when shifting and it will always be when I was not paying attention and shifted too slow, rather than a firm shift, from gear to gear. RandyA
  16. Venturous Randy
    Well, that's a real bummer george. If you are going to break your arm at work, you need to do it about Christmas. RandyA
  17. Venturous Randy
    I am not sure you have a bad stator. 1st of all, most probably don't get 10 volts idleing at 700rpm's, so over 12 at that rpm is pretty good. Most will say the 700 rpm's is too low, but that is about what mine idles at. I feel the bike spends very little time at idle, so I don't worry about it. If you have not done so, I would check the condition of the connection coming from the stator. If you still have the plug, I would cut the wires and solder them and shrink tube them. While I had them naked, I would check resistance to ground on each wire to see if you are having any insulation breakdown. You might get a little reading on a good digital ohm meter, but it should be very little. My first thought would be the condition of your battery. Did you have it "load" tested or just check the volt reading after it was charged? It may not be as strong under load. RandyA
  18. Venturous Randy
    I am kind of like jfoster. I have always been a little anal about time and speedometer accuracy. In my past jobs I was responsible for a lot of gage calibration and I am the same way about my speedometer. I want it real close. I have checked my 83 many ways and it is on the mark. It used to be off about 3mph and I took the speedometer out and reset it. Most mile markers are pretty close as long as the measured mile is in a straight line, but a long sweeping curve in the mile can make a difference according to which lane the measurment was taken from. With a stop watch and a mile marker, you can check your speed at any speed, but doing 60mph does give you 60 seconds. But, if you measured 49 seconds, you would be doing 73.5mph. This would be 60 divided by 49 times 60 equals 73.469. RandyA
  19. Venturous Randy
    Another example of this is lowering the center stand on a 1st gen. If you have about 1 1/2 inches from the rear tire to the ground while on the center stand, and you take 1/2 inch out of the center stand legs, you will take almost 1 inch out of the tire to ground clearance. RandyA
  20. Venturous Randy
    Local guy has one with the North Star V-8 in his. I hear it runs pretty good. RandyA
  21. Venturous Randy
    PM me your address sheridan and I will try to find one before I leave for work in the morning and try to get it in the mail. RandyA
  22. Venturous Randy
    Hey Gregory, are you trying to improve your image around here? RandyA
  23. Venturous Randy
    In the 99,000 miles I have put on my 83 Std 1st gen, this is what has worked best for me. Harbor Freight has a small compressor with a gage that cost about $8. I have found that I can attach it and when I turn it on that it will show pressure on the hose and when it gets to a certain point it will off seat the valve core in the valve stem, letting in air. I know this because when I turn off the compressor, the gage goes to zero and air does not leak from the shock. I can also use the gage as a reference because whatever the gage reads when pumping will be the same as my digital air gage reading. On my digital air gage, I put a slightly thicker o-ring on it. This causes me to have to push slightly harder to get a reading, but it is vertually "a no air loss" reading. I know there will be some saying you can not use an electric pump on your shocks, but I have done it for about 13 years and almost 100,000 miles and have never had a problem. The pump from HF has a gage and also has an on/off switch in the wire. For me to go from 40 to 65psi will take several seconds and is real easy to control exactly how much air I put in the shock. I even use this on my front shock and not exceed 12psi. RandyA
  24. Venturous Randy
    If your antenna is the stock item, you do not need to take it off, just fold it forward. RandyA
  25. Venturous Randy
    Is that similar to waist band width being exceeded? RandyA
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