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Venturous Randy

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Everything posted by Venturous Randy

  1. I thought I had a TCI or kill switch problem that ended up being a side stand switch that had a lot of resistance. My bike went from an occasional stumble to shutting down. The connection is under the left side panel and can be followed from the side stand up. I found mine had all kinds of resistance readings. You can check any combinations on the three wires with the side stand up or down and there should be no resistance or a complete open, nothing in between. I ended taking my switch off and sprayed contact cleaner down the side of the plunger while moving it in and out. I did this several times and then blew air around it and put the boot back in place. The bike started instantly and on a 180 mile trip yesterday thru the mountains doing many hard pulls, it never missed or stumbled at all. This is an easy check whether your bike is running good or not and should be checked before you start to have a problem or get stranded. RandyA
  2. I used a fine tip center punch on the outboard lip of the screw. I gently tap it until an indention was made then leaned the punch over and tap in a counter clock wise direction. It does not take much pressure, so use a small hammer. That is what worked for me. RandyA
  3. I got it running great. In fact, I believe it is running stronger than I can ever remember and I have put 99,000 miles on it. In 1st gear as it starts to pass about 3,000 rpm's it begins to pull real hard and the tach wraps up to 8,000 rpm's real quick. It ended up being the side stand switch had a lot of resistance and after I cleaned it, no resistance. I also helped that I cleaned a bunch of terminals, replaced the spark plugs, checked the pressure sensor and above all, I put in new diaphragms. It was so good to be able to take a smooth ride, but I caught myself looking for a place to CRANK IT ON!! I really appreciate everyone's suggections and comments. RandyA
  4. It is not something I would prefer to do, but I have on several occasions, always the rear. If the tire had a lot of tread on it, I would plug it and when I had time I would take the tire off and put a good patch on the inside, leaving the plug in, just trimming it down flat. I feel this keeps trash out of the hole pushing on the patch. I have put many miles on this condition without any problems. I think it also has to do with the quality of the plug material. If the tire was getting ready to be replaced, I would plug it and watch my load and speeds and routinely check pressure until I got it replaced. RandyA
  5. My first thought is you are not closing the throttle plate as much as you think you are. My second thought is you have a big leak in your YICS on that cylinder. As far as the YICS, take it all off and get some good plugs to cap the fittings with. Another thing is to take the air box off and put your hand over that carb. If it sucks in a bunch, you got vacuum. RandyA
  6. I agree with what jeff said. I do not have speed bleeders, so I open the bleed valve and pump a lot of fluid thru using my finger as a check valve before I actually start to bleed. I also did the fitting at the tree and it did not seem to help any. RandyA
  7. I may have found my problem. I again took my headlight out and checked several connections, such at the ones coming from the kill switch, tightened the pinch points, sprayed contact cleaner and put it all back together. I had cleaned the side stand switch a year or so ago and put a good boot on it. But I started checking across the terminals and was getting all kinds of resistance readings. I could put the side stand up and down and the readings were every where. So, I took the middle gear cover and foot peg off to get to it. I put it in a vice so I could more consistantly put the probes on and still got irratic readings. I sprayed a bunch of contact cleaner in it and moved it on and off a bunch of times and all my resistance readings were very good. I am hoping that flipping the kill switch off and on and it restarting may have been more of an electrical surge thru the sidestand switch that made contact. I can dream, can't I? So, I hurriedly put everything back together and just as I started it, and it fired instantly, it came a downpour. Now, it is either fixed or I lucked out and did not get caught in a heavy rain after it quit again. I now have something to look forward to tomorrow when I get home and I will get to try out my new diaphragms. Wish me luck as this has been very depressing. RandyA
  8. I sandwiched my bottom with 2 pieces of, I think 16 gauge aluminum, and it is still doing good. I put one piece under and one in the trunk bottom and screwed them together. RandyA
  9. Sounds very similar to what I am dealing with. I know my tach dropped instantly, even while I was going 30mph, but I am not real sure about the CMS screen. Hummm, that is something else to look for. Read my thread on TCI as there is a lot of good information suggested. Good luck and if you find anything, please share it. RandyA
  10. I am about an hour from the BRP on the Tenn side. RandyA
  11. Ate many meals at Wilber's BBQ while stationed in Goldsboro in the USAF. Been awhile since I been these, do they still bring the bowl full of Hush Puppies with butter as soon as you set dawn? That was good eating. RandyA
  12. Our local Advance auto is $9 and Northern Tool is less than $7. RandyA
  13. No, just take off the peripheral stuff like bags and wiring and there are four bolts that hold the rear frame on. You don't even have to take the rear wheel assembly off. Not a big job, just several small things. RandyA
  14. Yep, but he also does not have to deal with the mercury part of it. RandyA
  15. I got my diaphragms Monday and put them on and they look real good. It does take a bit to put them on, but it turned out real well. It cost me about $79 with the Canadian exchange rate. I'm very pleased with them. These things have the correct groove design and fit perfectly. RandyA
  16. Took my first ride Saturday and the bike started shutting off. Got caught at a light and it quit and had to do the tip toe walk to get it out of traffic. Got it started and as long as I kept it revved up, I could keep it running. Sunday, I took the battery tray out and cleaned the connections on the TCI and tightened the terminals. I also took the kill switch off and cleaned with contact cleaner. I also put my new diaphragms in and a new set of plugs. It still was acting up. When I got home today I took a good look at the electrical schematic. I pulled the windshield and headlight and found the emergency cut off switch, the 60º tilt switch, out of the rubber holder and hanging down. I took it apart and checked it inside and tightened the terminals and reinstalled it with a spacer to hold it tight. I started the bike and it sounded very good, very crisp and responsive. I put it back together and as I started down the driveway, it went dead. I got it started and made a loop around the block and at about 30mph in 3rd gear I let off the gas. The tach dropped to Zero and it was dead. I flipped the kill switch on and off and it backfired and it was running again. I got it back home and again took the kill switch off and checked it out. When checking voltage across the two wires, there is no voltage drop across the two wires. I really thought I had found the problem with the tilt switch hanging down, but obviously that was not the problem. I don't know anything about the TCI and when it is running, it runs very good, especially with the new diaphragms. I also pulled the pressure sensor hose loose and put a vacuum pump on it and it would rev up when vacuum was applied. I also blew cleaner through the #2 carb tube and it was open. I also checked the clutch lever and it is out all the way. Tomorrow I intend to start the check on the TCI, but for anyone that knows about these things, is it common for it to be intermittent and run so good when it is running? It is obvious I am loosing electrical power somewhere, but with it being intermittent, I am having a problem isolating the problem. I appreciate any suggestions. RandyA
  17. I thought I would try one post before this gets too political. Dan, I am still looking for that ONE 1965 Z-16 SS 396 Chevelle convertable that was made. In late 1965, Chevorlet made 201 SS 396 Chevelles as an introduction to the 1966 396 model and all were hardtops except one. The hardtops are going for from $85,000 to over $100,000 and one went on Barrett Jackson for way over that recently. The convertible Z-16 supposedly went to a GM engineer who drag raced it. What do you suppose that ONE convertible would go for? I had a 65 Chevelle, but it was just a 327 4-speed and I would love to have it back. RandyA
  18. We had a local death over the weekend. A guy on a 1999 Harley going too fast could not make a curve and hit a guardrail and tree. Report stated alcohol was involved and he was wearing an "unapproved Helmet". He was 37 years old. RandyA
  19. Bob, I was just about ready to see if you had any spare TCI's. I rode last Saturday and almost had to trailer mine home. I now have something intermitten that is killing my power, as in dieing instantly at lower rpm's, and not wanting to restart. Sunday I pulled the battery box and cleaned the contacts on the TCI, tighted the terminals and thought I may have fixed it. I also took the kill switch apart and cleaned it. Well, it is no better than it was and last night I gave up on it. I printed out the TCI check in the tech section, but have not started the process yet. On mine, I am also getting a relay rattle somewhere behind the headlight, but again, I have not pulled it. I did make sure the clutch switch was closed by the lever being pushed tight, even though that may not be enough. When it did start, I was getting about 12.8 volts to the kill switch and when it would not start, I am getting a little over 11 volts to the kill switch. I have not had any exposure to the workings of the TCI and think they are either bad or good, not intermitten, but I am not sure. This may be a good catalyst to get take the fairings off and get the paint work done on the edges while I am chasing voltages and grounds. I hope you get it worked out and if you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. RandyA
  20. I run the strobes in my headlight all the time, even at night. I also seem to have people move over when thay have been lingering in the left lane. They are noticable and I hope they keep working as well as they have so far. I also am not comfortable with modulators. I want to be seen, but I don't want some one in a state of panic trying to get out of the road, possibly causing an accident that could involve me and others. It seems to me that years ago young drivers seemed to have more "road sense" than they do now. Maybe it was because they spent time on farms, or riding a bike on the road or whatever. Now I see young drivers and others that seem to be paying more attention to everything else rather then driving. A modulator may get their attention, but I'm not sure the panic involved is the best thing. So far my strobes get attention, but they seem to realize I am not an emergency vehicle or police. All that being said, my next ride may be my last. RandyA
  21. I have been making payments on mine for 40 years and it hardly even works anymore. RandyA
  22. If you are going to be anywhere near western NC around July 9th thru the 12th, stop in and visit the Asheville rally. We can always find a place for you to pitch a tent and get you fed. As for your trip down now, make a detour over into Cherokee, NC and pick up the Blue Ridge Parkway and you can ride it all the way up into nothern VA, along with the Shanandoa Drive. RandyA
  23. What makes this story so good is not only did you make it thru the incident, but ATTENTIVE drivers helped, rather then hurt your situation. Randya
  24. How about the right side door on the faring cover where the radiator tank is. The hinge is broke on my std. RandyA
  25. I did a scan using the free version of RegCure.com and it tells me I have over 600 errors. Does anyone know about this program? RandyA
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