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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    One of the guys in our STAR chapter mounted a short (12" or so) antenna inboard of the saddle bag on his RSV. It ended up being highly directional and very short range, enough so that he could only communicate with another motorcycle that was on the correct side and slightly behind.
  2. MiCarl
    That would have the effect of the anti dive being in the "on" state. In normal operation oil flows through those holes and through the anti dive unit. When the anti dive activates the passage is closed off and oil can only move if it overcomes the spring pressure on the oil lock. Blocking the holes would result in a very harsh ride. Disabling MKII anti dives is simple. Just unplug them.
  3. MiCarl
    That's hardly fair. The whole state is one giant corn maze.
  4. MiCarl
    He's got a MKII 1st gen. Electric anti-dives. Real power hogs. My pair of 55W driving lights don't move the meter at all, hit the brakes and it heads for the floor.
  5. MiCarl
    Plus the cooling fan was probably running too. Not enough power to keep up. I still wouldn't turn off the bike though. You might not have enough juice to restart.
  6. MiCarl
    Forgot about the Obama Care tax. I think there might be enough left to put an old pet rock in the kiddie pool. Not much of an island..... Maybe one of the kids will let me have a Barbie for the native servant girl. Could have been a harem, but Skipper was lost at the last garage sale.
  7. MiCarl
    You shouldn't be able to see gas "dumping" in the carburetors. If you're seeing gasoline you have a fuel level problem (too high).
  8. MiCarl
    No shortcuts. Gotta pull the axle and move the wheel about 2" at which point it'll just drop out. I think you can probably leave the brake calipers on since you're shouldn't need to get the rim and tire past them.
  9. MiCarl
    I just found out I'll be receiving $500,000.00. I'm outta here because the island I'll be on doesn't have internet.
  10. MiCarl
    They'd probably be fine. Which means the tread probably won't come off on the inside of a curve causing a painful slide into oncoming traffic. Personally, I don't ride on probably.
  11. MiCarl
    In regards to your diaphragm question: #1 and #3 are pretty easy to check. If you pull the side covers off they are accessible, round cap with 4 screws (of course one of them is a T27 security head:depressed:). Pull the screws, remove cap and spring. Gently pull the slide and diaphragm out. Hold up to light and check the rubber for holes. When you put it back together be careful that the lip on the diaphragm ends up in the channel in the carburetor body (it'll be obvious what I'm talking about when you see it). The "ear" needs to go in the correct place too (again obvious, when you see it). The other two are behind that dog leg bottom to the fairing. Good chance they look just like the first two.
  12. MiCarl
    I don't see a pic http://www.bearingbuddy.com/graphics/Cutaway.gif
  13. MiCarl
    Doesn't sound like clutch switch, sounds vacuum related. There is a vacuum hose from the pump in the right fairing to the servo in the left fairing. You can just get to the ends through the turn signal openings I believe. First thing to do is make sure that hose is good. You can test the hose and servo by hooking a brake bleeder pump to the air pump end of the hose. I had an issue with my pump. It would run but pull no vacuum. I disassembled it and found that there are two solenoid operated release valves in it. I think one was sticking because after reassembly it worked fine:confused24:.
  14. MiCarl
    Whether you use a bearing buddy or the zerk fitting the initial lube takes a lot of grease because you need to completely fill the hub (that whole volume between the bearings in the picture above). Brian, why do you remove the bearing buddies? I thought the whole idea was that they keep the grease pressurized so the bearings are lubed as needed and water can't get in past the seal. **NEVER MIND** Just saw your other post about ugly and stick out far enough to bang into stuff.
  15. MiCarl
    I run the Kenda Kruz on my 1st gen and have been very happy with them.
  16. MiCarl
    I assume the RESUME light comes on when the cruise unsets? A worn clutch pivot is a common cause of this problem. Bumps cause the lever to flop - disengaging the cruise.
  17. MiCarl

    seal

    MiCarl replied to Sideoftheroad's topic in Trailer Talk

    Grease is not necessary in the cavity, just in the bearings. If you grease with the Zerk fitting then the cavity will need to fill before it pushes any grease into the bearings. If you're hand packing the bearings the seal needs to be pulled to do the inner one properly. I've never got a grease seal out without ruining it. If it truly isn't warped at all you can probably re-use it. A new one is cheap insurance though.
  18. MiCarl
    Just when I think I've mastered English, somebody gobsmacks me with Australian.
  19. MiCarl
    It should disable the starter and kill spark. Something is either broken or modified.
  20. MiCarl
    Check around at your local motorcycle shops. Somebody should have adhesive weights, each weight is 7g (1/4 oz.). They usually come in strips of 12, with 6 strips in a package. Don't be surprised if you have to get them in steel (which are huge!), the state of California has banned lead weights and the distributors are switching to steel. Anything that supports the axle will do for your balancing stand - I've used sawhorses and two work benches spaced with a gap between them. I've also heard of chairs, chair backs, cinder blocks etc. being used.
  21. MiCarl
    OEM replacement is $508 and on back order. Buckeye Performance sells a high output stator for $239 + $30 core charge. Thunder Valley (That's me!) sells an aftermarket brand new OEM equivalent for $161.39, - 15% when you use the discount code "VentureRider" at check out. Don't buy OEM. If you need the extra output buy from Buckeye. For a stock equivalent buy from me.
  22. MiCarl
    Thanks for the reminder. Been married to SWMBO for 13 1/2 years. Washer hoses (rubber) came with her. When I made the new laundry room I put in a quick shut of. You think she ever uses it?
  23. MiCarl
    It will bind on you. Go ahead and push it through (as much as you can). Once that's free it's just you vs. magnets. Did I mention they're really powerful? They'll grab hold of the stator and cause you to cock it in the rotor - binding things up. It helps to rock the cover as you pull out. Don't pry with anything! The cover is pretty fragile. When you go to put it back on those same magnets will rip the cover out of your hands and slam it into the engine case. Keep fingers clear.
  24. MiCarl
    You need to remove the middle gear cover first (it's the smaller cover right behind the main case cover). The wires for the stator and pickup coils run behind it. It needs to come off so the wires can move. There are also pretty strong magnets in the alternator rotor. They will try to pull it back on. It can mash fingers if you get them behind the cover. That nut (I thought it was a bolt!) behind the cover should be left alone. It holds the rotor on, which stays in place when you pull the cover. The access to the bolt is simply to give you something to turn when doing the valve lash.
  25. MiCarl
    Glad you're ok. Probably lucky there was another cage in between.
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