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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Annie, each state will have slightly different requirements to title and register a motorcycle. It'll be taxed based not on where you buy it, but the address where it is titled. So if your residence is California and you buy in Nevada you'd pay California sales tax, not Nevada sales tax. States have different sales tax levels and I believe a few have none. As a general rule states that are near the Atlantic, Pacific or Great lakes have higher tax rates. You'll save some money by choosing the correct location for your "residence". Once it has a plate and insurance you can drive it in any State.
  2. MiCarl
    Thanks everyone! The deal is done.
  3. MiCarl
    Anyone know if all 1st gen front fenders are interchangeable? In particular need to know if an 85 will fit on an 86. Thanks.
  4. MiCarl
    Hard to see pictures on this crappy monitor at work. I may remember wrong about which side the band is on. Might want to procure the new seal before tearing in to see if that is part of the seal.
  5. MiCarl
    I don't recall any rust on mine. That band of rust between the seal and the splines is not a collar as I recall. It's a shoulder on the drive shaft. The seal stops against it. The band I'm speaking of is not visible in your pictures. It's on the right of the seal as oriented in your pictures. I don't remember if it's exposed or molded into the rubber. I do remember breaking it to get the seal off the shaft.
  6. MiCarl
    I did mine a couple years ago. If I remember correctly the "collar" is a steel band around the rubber at the shaft. I think I cut the band to get the old one off and tapped the new one down the shaft with a drift.
  7. MiCarl
    Glance at the parts fiche shows that the Midnight Ventures have an "S" added to the model number. Whatever you are looking at probably refers to the Midnight.
  8. MiCarl
    I'll need one of those.
  9. MiCarl
    You could be a sub-human missing link with 1 friend but you haven't approved my friend request.
  10. MiCarl
    If your leak is indeed at the grommet you're not going to find a "part" to fix the problem. The grommet is part of the stator so replacing it is an expensive proposition. Of course you'll need the gaskets for the left side cover and middle gear cover. Many leaks at the grommet are oil wicking along where the wires pass through the rubber. Use a solvent to clean the oil off (I think I used carb cleaner). The grommet should be able to slide on the wires so you can slide it along and clean the wires where they pass inside the grommet too. Once everything is dry, put some RTV on the wires and slide the grommet back to it's original position. Have a beer while the RTV sets up. On mine there was an additional problem: The grommet appeared to have shrunk to where it didn't completely fill the U shaped hole in the cover and left a gap at the gasket surface. On my 2nd try I caught this and solved it by putting a bead of RTV on the end of the grommet before assembly. This is all way easier than the description sounds.
  11. MiCarl
    I adjust mine on the side stand. I agree with Rick though, if I were setting it on the center stand I'd probably need to set a lower pressure. Seems to me like it's probably more important that you consistently do it the same way so you get the results you expect. I can see a possibility, if parked on a hill or unlevel ground, that the motorcycle could fall over when adjusting the CLASS on the side stand. This may be why Yamaha suggests the center stand.
  12. MiCarl
    I'll second the leaking at the grommet. When the motorcycle is running the rotor and starter clutch throw oil up there. Then it takes some time to run down between the covers where it leaks out right above the side stand. To convince yourself you can pull the rubber plug at the clutch slave bleeder and pack some tissue in there. Run it for a few minutes and see if the tissue comes out oil soaked.
  13. MiCarl
    The Avon rep here said the reason they don't mark the light spot is because they want to force the tire to be balanced rather than aligning it with the valve and calling it good. He also said they recommend that if it takes more than 2 1/2 oz. to balance that the tire be dismounted, rotated on the wheel and tried again. I always check the balance of wheels that are intended for tubeless tires before mounting the new tire. About half of them have the heaviest spot somewhere other than at the valve stem. I mark the heavy spot and align the tire mark there. Usually that results in using very little weight. I haven't mounted a lot of Avon tires, but they don't seem to be any better than any other tire for how well they are balanced. My experience is that the cheaper tires (Kenda, Shinko) seem to be more uniform than higher priced tires (Dunlop, Bridgestone).
  14. MiCarl
    I believe the atc block is ahead of the battery to the right.
  15. MiCarl
    25. Better on old cars. Lousy on exotics.
  16. MiCarl
    Agreed. It's like any insurance, you pay a premium to spread the risk around. On average they're losers, but if you're the guy with a big expense you make out. Personally, I never insure anything where I can manage the risk from my own pocket.
  17. MiCarl
    Bead leaks are so slow (but over a wide area) that they don't bubble up quickly. After you wet them you need to give them some time to bubble. The bubbles are often so small it looks like a strip of shaving cream.
  18. MiCarl
    On my Yukon I paid a local shop big $$ for a compressor and within a year it was leaking. They replaced it and the replacement started leaking almost immediately. I lived with it for a long time having it recharged every spring. When the compressor clutch failed I called Autozone. A clutch was something like $180 and a compressor with clutch was about $200. A no brainer. I slapped it in, had it charged, and it's been fine for five years now.
  19. MiCarl
    Those washers are a spring (actually 2 springs with a washer between them). They hold the oil lock closed. When the anti dive is engaged no oil flows until the pressure overcomes the springs and the oil lock opens. So, with them missing the anti dive will be disabled (at least partially).
  20. MiCarl
    That noise is from excessive gear lash in the final drive. On mine the pinion had snapped right below the nut. Without the compression on the bearing it's halves separate and let the pinion float in and out. As stated before, acceleration pulls the pinion into the ring and takes up the lash; deceleration pushes it out and the noise comes. The nut doesn't rattle around because there is a spring that keeps it against the coupler. I don't think you broke it from getting on it hard. IMHO it's a design or manufacturing defect. It's too common an occurrence to be anything else. Yamaha doesn't sell the pinion without a complete final drive. They were North of $800 when mine failed. I got a final off a 2nd gen that had been triked to replace it
  21. MiCarl
    The self canceling unit isn't the issue. The problem is the electronic flasher doesn't have the control input to allow the canceling unit to turn it off. Following is a description of the problem and a solution which I shamelessly stole from the xjbikes.com web site: I also found a schematic: http://xjbikes.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/11622/xj_flasher_circuit%7E0.jpg The schematic differs from the description in the type of relay used (NO vs. NC). This is important because the wrong type will cause the signal to come on when the auto cancel expires rather than going out on expiration. The author of the description is someone who seems to post good stuff, don't know about the diagram guy. In any case, easy to check out with a multimeter or test light before buying the relay.
  22. MiCarl
    Unless the fuse box has been changed you do have an accessory fuse. The two screws just forward of the stock box are for accessory connection (one is hot, the other is ground). Realistically though you can hook it to any switched hot.
  23. MiCarl
    I had Verizon for about 10 years and was very happy with them. Switched to ATT to take advantage of a promotion that got me a 30"LCD TV for about $30. Been pretty happy with them too. At the time I switched ATT coverage wasn't as good, but it's improved a lot. If you travel overseas many ATT and T-Mobil phones will also work there since they use the same technology as the rest of the world. Verizon and Sprint use a technology that is North America specific, although I've been told that they do have some phones that will work on the other standard. If you use lots of data (text, internet, navigation) the Sprint unlimited plan looks pretty attractive. Last time I was selling wireless though (almost 2 years ago) the Sprint plan wasn't truly unlimited, they had an out where they could drop you if you were using more than 5 gig of bandwidth a month. Not sure if they still have that. As the above paragraph indicates, the fine print is critical for all of them. Also, look in fine detail at their coverage maps because whatever you have is useless if it doesn't work where you need it.
  24. MiCarl
    The sender grounds the indicator lamp circuit when the oil level is low. With enough oil you should read an open (infinite ohms) between the sender lead and ground. With low oil you should read near 0 from the sender lead to ground. Of course if it's unplugged the lamp should be off. If the wire to the sender gets pinched it can also supply the ground and turn on the indicators.
  25. MiCarl
    Sort of. You can't expect to just bolt one up and have good results. At minimum you'd need to use a whole rack, re-jet and change the pressure sensor and TCI.
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