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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    It was wired to a cheap aluminum pole like would be used with a wall mount. The stars are printed on the field of blue, not embroidered. It was wrapped around the pole and laying across the joists against the cold air return duct, near the access stairway. All in all it looks a lot like the cheap set up Dad used to put on the porch for holidays (minus 2 stars) The original part of the house (where I was insulating) was built in 1953. I suspect when the flag got 50 stars in 1959 that one was crammed into the attic and forgotten. The holes appear to be from wear, moths and/or mice. They're irregular so my guess is not bullets. There are some spots that are worn thin. It wasn't stored like it had any particular meaning to anyone. I was planning to burn it when I noticed that the field of stars didn't look right and counted them. If it had 50 it'd already be gone. All in all it just doesn't have the quality to be any kind of a display piece. I think I'll probably just retire it properly. Thanks everyone for all your feedback.
  2. MiCarl
    While adding insulation to my attic I found an old U.S. flag (48 stars). It's filthy and has many holes in it. While I'd like to keep it (it looks pretty interesting) it'd definitely have to be washed. Is it permissible to wash it (by hand, the machine would undoubtedly finish it off) or should I just burn it? Thanks for your input.
  3. MiCarl
    Liberals vote November 4. The rest vote November 2.
  4. MiCarl
    I think the use of the description "chirp" is because it sounds like the collective chirping of thousands of crickets at night. Individually they chirp, but collectively the song sounds just like a Yamaha primary gear set. FWIW, it's a rare Yamaha (except the few chain primary models) where I can't hear the "chirp". I also occasionally hear it on other manufacturers motorcycles.
  5. MiCarl
    They are no longer available from Yamaha. Sierra sells one that will work. You get a pair of them (for front and rear) for $51. They do not have the connection for the attenuator (that little volume control on the handlebar box) so you lose that functionality. LINK TO SIERRA. I replaced mine with one and while it's a bit long it does the job. I already sold the 2nd one to someone else.
  6. MiCarl
    From Cycle Parts Nation: SKU: 26H-28215-00-00 WASHER, special (backordered) That means it's not discontinued, just not in the warehouse. You can order it but there will probably be an extended delivery time.
  7. MiCarl
    And if you inhale it you'd be in a world of hurt. We had some poison Ivy pop up in the back yard. One treatment with Weed-B-Gone was the end of it.
  8. MiCarl
    If you do that you should probably establish some criteria or you'll be open to complaints.
  9. MiCarl
    If you go to the Metzeler tires web site they'll have inflation recommendations. I think they're going to want you to go to 48 or so on the rear and about 40 on the front.
  10. MiCarl
    I've got a spare cluster laying around the shop somewhere. I'll try and remember to check it tomorrow for you.
  11. MiCarl
    20W40 is pretty scarce unless you're in a motorcycle shop. Lots of people run the Rotella 15W40. Personally, I run the Wal*Mart house brand (Supertech) 15W40 in my 1st gen. 10W40 probably not a bad choice this late in the season. By the time July comes around you might want go to a bit heavier oil.
  12. MiCarl
    Likely ran past the piston into the oil too. Time for an oil change.
  13. MiCarl
    I think you're worrying over nothing. Not sure what the specs on the 2nd gen alternator are, but I bet it's output curve is similar to the first gen. The first gen alternator doesn't really start to produce until 3K RPM. Those extra lights draw a good bit of power. I wouldn't be surprised if the alternator can't keep up until 4K rpm, especially if you've been standing still long enough for the cooling fan to be running. By the way, your voltage readings will be meaningless if the battery isn't fully charged. Something was posted earlier about disconnecting the battery with the motorcycle running. Not a good idea. The battery acts as a voltage damper. Without it you can get spikes that potentially could damage electronics.
  14. MiCarl
    I have Progressive on the scoot too. Was starting to shop rates when I ran into the girl that ran a stop sign (cell phone). I only carry liability and the girl's mother picked up the damage to the bike. Then the medical bills hit. Turns out that under Michigan law the motorcycle insurance is last in line to pay medical claims. First it's the other driver, then my auto, then my personal health coverage and Progressive last. Even though they weren't responsible they handled the paperwork and all the BS with the other parties to get it handled. After all that they'd really have to jack up my rate to lose me.
  15. MiCarl
    I'm definitely more comfortable turning left. Having said that, here in the city I think I'm much more likely to drag on the right. Reason is right turns are much tighter and require more lean than a left turn.
  16. MiCarl
    Why not do it with linkages? Cheaper, simpler, no power supply needed.....
  17. MiCarl
    If you're running dual antennas you don't need that matching/splitter box that mounts to the bottom of the CB. If you're trying to use that the connectors will be wrong. Put it in your spare parts pile. The connector on the back of the CB is a standard female CB connector (SO-239 I believe). The PL-259 male end on your CB antenna lead will screw right up. If you need to shorten it you can get replacement connectors at RadioShack. My personal preference would be to just store any extra cable inside the fairing. That splitter box has a cable that runs across the motorcycle to the amp. It plugs into a female Motorola connector that is on a pigtail (5" or so) that comes out of the amp. The Motorola connectors used to be standard for AM/FM antennas, but there are other ones out there today. If your AM/FM doesn't have the Motorola connector you can cut off what's there and replace it with a male Motorola plug (also available at RadioShack)
  18. MiCarl
    Welcome! Enlarging the diameter of the tube will not change the sensitivity at all. The column of fluid will move until the pressure is balanced regardless of diameter (assuming the diameter is large enough to overcome capillary effects). The sensitivity is determined by the density of the fluid. A larger diameter will slow the response somewhat, so less jumping around. It'll also be easier to see if you're one of us that has already celebrated the 20th anniversary of our 19th birthday.
  19. MiCarl
    You could have said something about the mirror. Looked at first like it was being born breech....... That's the exact place a 1st gen has oil when it leaks around the stator wires.
  20. MiCarl
    The problem with the Harbor Freight charger is the wire and clips are very light weight. I'd worry I'd break them.
  21. MiCarl
    For hairline cracks I have an ABS welding solvent from the hobby store. It wicks into the cracks (or clean breaks) and bonds them together. I'd use that first, then back up with fiberglass. Paint it on from the back and I don't think it'll harm your paint.
  22. MiCarl
    Battery Tender is a particular brand of automatic float charger. They're at the higher end of the price scale. I've got a couple Die Hard maintainers and an off brand which all work fine. You can get maintainers that do multiple batteries but they are pricey. The maintainer really only needs to be on a couple days/month so you can save a lot of money by moving one around. In my case the lawn tractor has it's own that is left on all winter because it's out in the barn where I rarely go in winter. The scoot, boat batteries etc. are more accessible and they share one that gets moved around. Don't forget to top off the water if you have flooded batteries.
  23. MiCarl
    Here's what I did for some major reconstruction that seems to be holding up: I used pipe cement that specifies it's suitable for ABS (can get at Home Depot) to bond a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plastic. Once that set up I reinforced by laying up an additional layer of fiberglass using standard polyester resin. Where I had voids I did the back side as above. Then I filled with fiberglass Bondo. Finally a layer on the outside - pipe cement to the ABS and polyester resin over it to fill and tie into the Bondo. Feathering the edges was a bit tricky as fibers from the glass wanted to lift. I ended up using that air cure body filler that is essentially thick primer.
  24. MiCarl
    Every other time you're pushing the button it is turning the system off so you'd expect no lights then. The behavior of the set and resume lights is normal. Possibly a burned out lamp behind the power light? If it's just a burned out lamp it should still function so you can test by trying to use it.
  25. MiCarl
    Why are you guys pulling the pointer off? It'll turn on the shaft. Here's how I'd do it: Pick a speed midway in the range (say 50mph). Use mile markers, gps etc. to find out what the speedo actually reads at that speed (lets say 55 in this case). Pull the speedometer out and rotate the pointer to 55. Then hold the bell so the shaft doesn't turn and rotate the pointer back to 50. Now your speedometer will be spot on at 50mph. You shouldn't need any tools to turn it, I've done it with just my fingers.
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