MiCarl

If it's too much trouble to get at the coasting enrichners then I'd only use compressed air on the carb body. Pull the fuel jets (especially the slow jet) and clean them with carb cleaner. Blow out the body with compressed air. NOTE: Don't push any kind of wire through the jets, it doesn't take much to damage them.

The passages are a lot larger than the opening in the jet. Anything that gets through the jet will blow on through. I clean a lot of carburetors every year. I always pull the fuel jets, blow carb cleaner through them and then compressed air through them. I rarely pull the air jets, just spray carb cleaner through and then blow them out. You should do all that with the slides, mixture screw assembly, choke cylinders and coasting enrichners (air cut off valves) removed. Carb cleaner is hard on rubber parts so don't let the bodies soak - blow out with compressed air shortly after spraying them.

The jets you see on the intake side are air jets. Been awhile since I've been in 2nd gen carbs but I believe there should be 3 total. One or more may be under the diaphragm. They typically aren't a problem but it wouldn't be a bad idea to spray some carb cleaner and compressed air through them while you're at it. The film you see is probably some oil with a little carbon in it. Shouldn't be an issue. I think you're probably a tad lean. As you pointed out they come from the factory so lean they barely run. Then over time some of the rubber bits age and start to leak just a bit of air pushing it over the edge. Since the caps are still on the idle screws it's likely they've never been opened up from the factory setting. I'd add 1/2 turn out from where they were set while the carbs are out. 2nd gen mixture screws are tough to get to with the rack on the bike. Also, make sure you squirt some carb cleaner through the idle jets. Ethanol fuel can make little clear globs that pass light just fine but will stop up a small jet.

Boy, it's been awhile, but here is my recollection: It's not that the magnet is holding it from going in. It's that the magnet is pulling it a little bit of center and the positioning sleeves aren't lined up. You've got to wrestle with it - fighting the magnet - to get it aligned. When you do the magnet will slam it against the crankcase so make sure your fingers aren't in the gap.

If I felt pretty good about how the bearing felt and looked I'd be tempted not to replace it. That would be a major job. I would plan on doing another inspection before a lot of miles to confirm it hadn't been damaged.

He's talking about part #17 in the Drive Shaft diagram, 1FK-46152-01-00 .HOUSING, BEARING. It's not available, but I doubt he needs it. He can probably just replace the bearing and oil seal.

The bearing you're looking at is pressed onto the gear and I believe is a friction fit to the housing. If it doesn't pull right out heat it up. The aluminum will expand more than the steel and it should easily pull from the housing.

The bearing and seal are still available. It seems unlikely the housing is shot. Disassemble the final drive and see what you've got. The reason the housing isn't available separately is because changing the casting requires re-shimming it. Not something they trust the service department with. #16 Bearing 93316-01403-00 #22 Oil Seal 93102-70167-00

I think he's talking about the oil seal and bearing on the final drive. PartsShark shows those both still available too.

Try pulling the pedal off the pivot. Clean and lubricate the pivot.

There is not proportioning valve on the hand brake. It's on the rear/left front. The right front caliper and master cylinder is exactly as you expect them to be.

Unless someone modified it the hand lever only works the right front caliper. The left caliper is operated by the pedal, along with the rear caliper. Depending on the method you're using to bleed it you might have an air bubble trapped at the master cylinder. The way to get that bubble is to crack the banjo bolt, gently squeeze the lever and re tighten the bolt before releasing the lever. I do it until I get fluid with no bubbles in it. I like to have a helper to work the lever while I do the banjo bolt. CAUTION: Brake fluid will chew up that black ABS on the cowl panels almost immediately. Lots of rags and be careful. If that doesn't do it you might have a bad master cylinder.

I'm concerned about what they're doing to cars. My wife drives a 2004 Lincoln Aviator. All the climate controls are push button and you have to look away from the road to see temperature settings, fan speeds etc. Primitive compared to new vehicles with touch screen displays to page through. Still plenty distracting. My 2007 Colorado has 3 knobs you twist for temperature, fan speed and which vent it blows through. I never need to look at them, just reach and turn. To me, a far superior user interface. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll ever be able to get that again. I recently read an article about a study that indicated in car touch screens were as bad, or worse, than phones.

You have to buy the wiring harness to get it.

I'm the only one in my house too. 2nd marriage - same TP blindness. I guess I have a type.

It's not an oiling issue, it's a sensor issue. That isn't an oil pressure light, it's an oil level light. There is a float switch at the front of the oil pan. When you really get on it the oil ends up at the back of the pan and the light comes on. Not to worry. If that's the first time you've seen it you've been leaving fun beside the road.

Welcome! I hate it when people do that so they can stick in a crappy $15 eBay or Amazon regulator/rectifier. I had a motorcycle (Not Venture) in the shop that someone had done that to. I guessed what regulator the new plug fit and I guessed wrong. I ended up putting individual connectors on the wires and plugging them into the regulator/rectifier. Then taped them together so it wouldn't be easy for someone to reconnect them wrong. Of course you've got to figure out where they go first...... First thing I'd check the wiring at that plug carefully, it doesn't look like it has much craftsmanship there and a poor connection will screw you.

There are also carriers that work on wifi where available. So the phone would use your internet at the house and switch to cell away. It'll also be less $$ than a regular cell plan, but you do have to buy the phone up front. We've been with Republic wireless for more than two years. Been very happy.

I think their bigger issue is the best gun salesman in history retired this past January.

SWMBO is a hoarder, including food. The first couple weeks we'll live like kings eating what is in the freezers before it spoils. The back yard is full of venison, rabbit and squirrel and I have the tools to harvest them. There are enough sides in the pantry to keep them company on a plate for a very long time. I have the tools to keep at least the small hordes from taking what is ours. Biggest issue will be drinking water. Probably only have enough on hand to last a couple weeks.

I believe you're referring to the CMU (not CPU). It's only job is to run the display on the instrument panel - no effect on the engine at all. The engine only needs power to the TCI and coils. The only interlocks to the rest of the motorcycle are the kill switch and side stand switch.

Something also to remember is fork oil doesn't get returned to a reservoir where foam can dissipate. Fork oils will have anti foaming additives.

We were heading West on 20 when that came through. Wind abruptly switched directions to the North, got strong and heavy rain. Before we got into it it looked like a solid wall beside the road. Drove about 10MPH for a few miles until it let up. Quite a blow.

Wasn't blaming the server reboot, but thought a software change might do it. It could be the problem was with the 22 of 23 count and there wasn't really another page to see. That might only happen if someone had something like 22 or 23 unseen posts....... I'll watch it for next time I spend a few days off the information super highway.

Found a bug (I think). Been away for a couple days. Looking at new posts, bottom left of page says "Results 1 to 22 of 23". No arrows to see the 2nd page.