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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    The rubber plug is a friction fit into its bore. No plate required to hold it in.
  2. MiCarl
    I signed up for a Lap Giraffe. The waiting list is quite long so it might be awhile though.
  3. MiCarl
    Unfortunately CAT has been moving out of Illinois for years. Like the auto companies they've been moving South and overseas where the costs of doing business are lower.
  4. MiCarl
    Would it be easier to machine the ramps before you cut them apart?
  5. MiCarl
    Pilot circuits on carbs plugged up. If the seafoam doesn't fix it they need to be pulled and cleaned.
  6. MiCarl
    I believe there is an annual bike blessing in Hell.
  7. MiCarl
    His pronunciations bugged me too. You notice the sign behind him seems to be in French? The prices had $$ signs so I'm guessing it was filmed in Quebec. He did not sound like a Quebec native..... Not sure why rectangular cross section seals would be bad. Been using them on oil filters since the spin on was invented. FWIW, EMGO uses circular cross section seals. Same thing with the pleated filter element. Been used in virtually every oil filter made. For some reason it's not good enough for a Yamaha...... I also noticed his Yamaha brand filter was manufactured by Denso. I wonder how many labels Denso sells the exact same filter under.
  8. MiCarl
    Really simplifying: Torque gives you an indication of the ability to accelerate. Horsepower gives you an indication of ability to go fast. With a side car you're probably more interested in getting that extra weight moving than in going fast so you'll care more about torque. There is another variable that you might care about which is the torque curve. Does the engine produce lots of torque at low rpm, or does the torque peak when the engine is running faster? As a rule longer stroke means the torque is highest at low RPMs. For accelerating from a stop and putting around town you'll do lots less shifting with a long stroke. This is why big twins (which have long strokes) are popular for cruising. For better mid range response and more reliable acceleration at freeway speeds you'd probably be happier with an engine like you're looking at - moderate stroke that brings the torque on at mid-range rpms. That's the reason engines like your example show up in touring bikes. These engines tend to be V fours or boxers (Goldwing, BMW). A very short stroke engine won't produce a lot of torque and then only at high rpms. This would not be a good choice for a hack. These engines are always in line fours. So the only variables you care about are torque, horsepower and the torque curve. Ideally your torque spec will say xxft-lb@yyrpm so you know at what rpm torque is peaking. Where the rpm isn't listed you can use to stroke length to give you an idea if the torque peaks at low or higher rpm.
  9. MiCarl
    The gear dogs are always undercut. That is so torque pulls them together rather than pushing them apart. As far as I know they've always been done that way.
  10. MiCarl
    Your problem is that it's actually quite difficult to come up with a surplussed plate. Year after year we just put new tax stickers on the old plate. When we get a new bike we transfer the plate to the new bike. The only time a plate becomes "available" is if someone sells a motorcycle and doesn't replace it. The only way someone would have a chance of coming up with 100 plates would be to head down to the Hawg Heaven bar and try to unscrew a bunch of them before someone comes outside to pee.
  11. MiCarl
    That won't get it into the carburetors. Put a healthy dose in the tank and run it for 20 minutes or so to get it into the carburetors. You might get lucky. Otherwise you're going to have to pull them and hand clean.
  12. MiCarl
    I think the head will come off in frame. It won't be fun though. You'd need a good assortment of extensions to get to all the bolts I expect. If it'll run definitely try that. I think I'd be willing to try and heat the area with a torch if necessary.
  13. MiCarl
    Ok, in your 150/90-15 tire: 150 is the sidewall width in mm. 90 is the sidewall height aspect ratio (.9x150 = 135mm) 15 is the wheel diameter in inches. If you run a 140/90- 15 your sidewall height is (.9X140 = 126mm). You lower the bike 9mm, or just under 3/8 inch. Your don't need to include the wheel diameter in your calculation unless you want to know the absolute axle height. In this case you're only interested in the change. (BTW, in your calculation you mixed wheel diameter with tire height to get effective diameter. You needed to double the tire height. With the 150/90 tire your effective diameter is 25.6", not 20") I don't think anyone makes a 150/100 street tire. You usually only see those tall ratios in dirt bike tires. You're going to have to find a different way to lift it.
  14. MiCarl
    Plastics on the side in the picture appear to be good. Those are among the most expensive items so you're off to a good start. A tip if you ever have to tie it to a trailer again: Hook your straps behind the fairing over the lower tree. That way there's no chance you'll crack that very expensive plastic hitting a pot hole.
  15. MiCarl
    If you heat it with a torch you'll mostly expand the screw in the hole and discolor the cover. If you end up drilling the head off you can heat the aluminum boss the screw remnant is in to make it easier to extract. It wouldn't hurt to run the engine until the cooling fan kicks on. That heat will expand the aluminum more than the steel screw and may help you crack it loose.
  16. MiCarl
    Tim is giving good advice. The financials are much better if you pay a premium price for one that has either been well maintained or where somebody already shelled out the $$ to fix it. Even if you do the work yourself you'd be lucky to break even. In other words, $3500 for one in tip top shape is probably a better deal than $2500 for one that needs work.
  17. MiCarl
    Looks like the domain registration expired 3/19. Network Solutions You're going to want to re-register it ASAP before someone else does.
  18. MiCarl
    A hand impact driver is a basic tool requirement if you're working on motorcycles. Get one while you're out tomorrow. It'll be the best money you ever spent. If the screw is too far gone you can drill it. You only drill enough for the head to come off, you'd have to go another half inch to damage the engine. Then you pull the screw remains with locking pliers. You can get really fancy and get left hand drill bits. As the drill breaks through the back of the head it will grab the screw. There is a decent chance it'll spin it right out.
  19. MiCarl
    There will be others. Keep your eyes open and the right one will come along.
  20. MiCarl
    I think you need a bigger freezer:fingers-crossed-emo
  21. MiCarl
    Radio and clock probably took out the backup fuse an instant before the rectifier took out the main.
  22. MiCarl
    I knew I'd seen something like that before. Any chance I saw them at MD last year? I think that's definitely a better solution than clamping to the case guards. The Kuryakin Buckhorns I have on the case guards are ok for my leg length. I'd think anyone with longer legs would find them cramped. My major issue is the leg spread to get around the fairing lowers. I only use them for an occasional stretch, and then only on the open road without traffic around me. I'm just not comfortable having my feet away from the controls when there is a chance I might need them in a hurry. IMO if you added forward controls to them people would be beating a path to your door (assuming they're not red:rasberry:).
  23. MiCarl
    1st gen fork is 40mm.
  24. MiCarl
    I believe the hoses come pre cut. You are correct though that the valves shouldn't be up against the gauges - they should be on the engine side. The extra length of hose between the valve and the gauge acts as a reservoir to damp a lot of the flutter.
  25. MiCarl
    **EDIT** Goose's explanation was a lot clearer than mine
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