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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    I think you'll need a 10mm socket on the end of all those extensions.
  2. MiCarl
    From the schematic mbrood posted I see that I was incorrect about the CBR being a (+) pulsed HEI. Gary, I thought your diagram was for Venture coils. If it's the CBR coils I believe it. I think you're going to want to wire them like "choice B" for the earlier reason I stated - you don't want the ignition module or the coil primary to see the voltage spike from the secondary. Of course you'll sort that out when you find out how the connector is wired.
  3. MiCarl
    This is also a good suggestion. Even if you're putting in a 5.1 system go ahead and install the extra runs for a future upgrade.
  4. MiCarl
    I'm with Freebird - if the primary has two connectors it won't care about polarity. Your "WORKS" diagram looks suspect to me. The back side of the secondary should be directly grounded to provide a return path for the high voltage. This diagram shows it grounding through the (+) which would cause spikes on the electrical system which I can't imagine the electronics would like. Since the coil fires when the TCI interrupts the ground (-) on the primary I'd think the "DOESN'T WORK" hook up would ruin the TCI. You didn't come up with those ohming out a defective coil did you? **EDIT** Just looked at the pictures for the first time. I didn't realize you were talking about a coil over plug set up. The secondary on that guy is going to ground back through the primary wiring. If that guy is wired wrong I can see where it might damage the ignition module (not the coil). If the module works with the stock 1st gen coils and wiring then it is switching the ground side. I'd think you'd want your "WORKS" diagram configuration to keep the high voltage away from the module. Looking at the link Freebird provided it appears to me that the CBR is likely a computerized HEI where the module sends a high voltage pulse on the (+) lead to fire the coil. The primary and secondary both go to chassis ground on the black/white (-) lead. If I'm right and the Ignitech unit functions like a stock TCI I bet it won't fire the coils at all. You might want to check and with Ignitech and see if that module is compatible with the CBR (not just the coil primary resistance).
  5. MiCarl
    That can be tough to cure. If it's stumbling just off idle it is probably lean on the pilot mixture. Sure the carburetors are completely clean? Make sure the float levels aren't low. Then you might set the idle just a bit richer. Those are small carbs with tiny orifices. As LilBeaver pointed out they'll gum up pretty fast.
  6. MiCarl
    Yep, find a couple riding an Ultra, GoldWing, or another Venture (1st or 2nd gen) with the stock audio and ask them to plug in and try it.
  7. MiCarl
    My 89 does the same thing (although it runs well enough it will USUALLY fire up with the slow crank). I had the starter off over the winter and opted to tighten up the stock grounding tabs, with no improvement. You can take it off with the engine in frame. In my case I was also repairing a leak at the thermostat housing so I had that and its plumbing off. Not sure if you can get the starter out without pulling that.
  8. MiCarl
    I've used them before for a small thing and just got my order for the 55" we're putting into the new "Man Cave" I got a ceiling mount, 4 speaker mounts, 25' HDMI cable, 25' TOSLINK cable, 25' RG6 cable, 6' power cable, panel with electrical outlet and wire pass through for the ceiling, two wall hookup plates for the rear speakers and 250' of 16 GA speaker wire. $165 to my door. Locally I'd have spent almost double that just for the ceiling mount. I agree though, if you're going to bury it in a wall (mine is in the attic) you might want to go ahead and do 12 or 14 GA speaker wire. monoprice.com
  9. MiCarl
    The slide is here Thunder Valley Powersports:: 1983 - 1985 carburetor slide. Regular price is $93.14. Short of walking in with cash PayPal is the only way you can pay. Become a supporting member here ($12) and I'll send you the 15% off coupon code. You'll end up saving $1.97 more than your membership dues.
  10. MiCarl
    The carburetor float bowls use o-rings, not gaskets. The starter block and jet block use gaskets, but they're small and complex. There is also another o-ring under the jet block. I do not know of any good source for these besides Yamaha. A new carburetor slide is pricey. I sell an aftermarket slide (which is about half the price from Yamaha) and some other 1st gen Venture parts HERE. If you become a supporting member of VentureRider.org you're eligible for a 15% discount from the listed prices. If you just need new rubber for it there is a company (sirius consolidated) that sells replacement diaphragms.
  11. MiCarl
    The tach cutting out is not from carburetors. The tach gets its signal from one of the coil primaries. The TCI is dropping that coil so the tach has nothing to read and goes to 0. My 89 will do exactly the same thing if I get crazy with the hose and get a bunch of water above the engine. After a short (poor performance) ride it'll dry out and is fine again. I have not got round to sorting it out. My guess is that something (perhaps a connection, maybe inside the TCI) is getting partially shorted by the water. It works fine at idle but as things speed up the components need to react faster and there is enough loss from the short that the voltage isn't there to move things fast. My best guess is that this is between the TCI and pick up coil.
  12. MiCarl
    Yes they are o-rings. Speaking of which, the ones you're missing aren't still in their bores are they? I usually have to dig them out with a little 90 degree pick I made.
  13. MiCarl
    Possibly. I did a search. Yamaha lists that pilot screw set on 341 different models. You can bet Mikuni tries to re-use the same parts wherever they can. I wouldn't be surprised if the pilot screw is the same on the MKI carb, just Yamaha chose not to sell it separate from the body. The washer and o-ring are probably the same on even more models. That's what you're after right? I think you'd be pretty safe rolling the dice on a set.
  14. MiCarl
    Me too. Spring from an oil seal. Don't find it on the fiche because it's not a separate part, it is part of the oil seal.
  15. MiCarl
    I found out I was ignorant when the first daughter became a teenager.
  16. MiCarl
    A couple weeks ago I asked the distributor I deal with when tire prices were going to go up. He told me that they were already seeing increases from the manufacturers and as new inventory came in their prices would also rise. He told me that one of the manufacturers increased prices twice in one week. Between high oil and devalued money we're going to get really creamed on them.
  17. MiCarl

    Scam????

    MiCarl replied to Sailor's topic in Watering Hole

    You needn't provide PayPal with a bank account to receive money. However without one they won't let you withdraw more than $500/month. I wonder how the buyer is going to get the money to PayPal with no checking account though......
  18. MiCarl
    Oh good. Way easier than dropping little screws and their aluminum crush washers. I was in the shop taking phone calls and paging through the fiche looking for the ports when I answered this. I either overlooked the nipples or Suzuki didn't find it necessary to put them in the drawing.
  19. MiCarl
    No, I'm the boss so I have to go to work..... Cathy will have to work too. As a school teacher she needs a special order from the Governor to take a Friday or Monday off. That's the price she pays for getting some 20 paid holidays I guess.
  20. MiCarl
    There are 3 sync screws located between each two carburetors on the butterfly shaft. They work just like on the Venture except the carburetors are all in line so there isn't a linkage from left to right. Just like on the Venture they're screws through sheet metal cams with springs on them. You'll probably need to pull the tank to get to them. In theory there should be enough fuel in the carbs to do a sync, but I generally use an axillary tank. From the fiche it appears that the #2 (2nd from left) carburetor is fixed. You'd sync 1 to 2, then 3 to 4, then finally 3 to 2. It's really more intuitive than on the Venture because they're all lined up rather than the cross bike linkage (I always loose track of which screw is which on the Venture). From the fiche it is not clear where the sync ports are. I believe they'll be plugged with screws either in the head or in the carburetor throats. You'll need the adapters to put your gauges on them.
  21. MiCarl
    They'll run smooth and strong right up until they start to burn a valve. From the number you have out I'd agree that they've probably never been touched.
  22. MiCarl
    Looks like I'll have Michigan all to myself Friday evening:depressed: We'll head down Saturday morning as usual.
  23. MiCarl
    My understanding is that the only non synthetic brake fluid is DOT 1 (castor oil). I don't think you can find it any more. DOT 4 is DOT 4 whether the marketing department puts "synthetic" on the label or not. DOT 3 and DOT 4 (and I assume DOT 5.1) are glycol based. DOT 5 is silicone based. Silicone reacts with glycol producing a sediment. Sediment is bad in braking systems. That's why DOT 5 should never be used with a system that has any DOT 3/4 in it.
  24. MiCarl
    DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT3/DOT4. To do it properly the system needs to be completely cleaned and I believe the seals need to be different too. DOT5 has its own quirks and isn't generally used except in some special circumstances. You're prudent to be concerned. You're sure it's not DOT 5.1? That should be compatible with a DOT3/DOT4 system.
  25. MiCarl
    Will do. He's a fair weather rider. At the rate we're going it'll be a couple months.......
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