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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    one here
  2. MiCarl

    Fork Seals

    MiCarl replied to ctraylor's topic in Watering Hole

    You're going to want to be in the garage if you do it at MD. You don't want any little pieces lost in the lawn or driveway. This is a messy messy job that requires some space to lay out the fork parts. You need to be sure that Don can accommodate this. Somebody give me a kick in the shin if I need to bring my damping rod holding tool and seal driver.
  3. MiCarl
    Wish we could, but there is a charity poker run out of Nicholson's tomorrow. In fact, you could participate if you'd like: POKER RUN. Guess I should have mentioned on here before.......
  4. MiCarl
    I don't see how it amplifies leg strength. The foot is right over the wheel so he doesn't have any extra leverage. Plus, he has to overcome the force of the spring in addition to the weight of the bike. Only advantage I see is it gets his foot a couple inches off the ground. Might be helpful if legs are too short for the bike.....
  5. MiCarl
    That's what it looks like to me too. Not a whole lot different than wearing a roller skate on the right foot.
  6. MiCarl
    I downloaded the installation instructions. Seems to include everything needed to clamp mount. For other solutions they refer to RAM. If that thing uses a 1" ball she could get the ball that mounts under the mirror stalk and be good to go.
  7. MiCarl
    According to the contents list on their WEBSITE motorcycle mount and integrated power cable are included. Quite convenient!
  8. MiCarl
    I like to put it on the left so I can operate it without taking my right hand off the throttle and brake coverage. THIS mount should go under the mirror arm lock nut (make sure your mirror is 11mm) An arm like THIS to get up above the air controller. Finally the holder for the GPS. RAM lists THIS when searching for a holder for the 660, but I'm skeptical. Someone that has one should weigh in to confirm it. I use a similar mount and arm with an Aquabox mount because my GPS isn't waterproof. Have you thought about power?
  9. MiCarl
    In theory they are a good idea. In reality they scare the crap out of me. Seems like they make the diameter of the things way too small. Where I grew up a number of communities have what is essentially a large round about circling a park in the town center. Those seem to work pretty well, but are several hundred feet in diameter. This morning on the drive in I heard a local one was closed because a semi had rolled in it. I'd never thought about trying to drag a 53' trailer through one of the bottle cap sized ones we have around here.........
  10. MiCarl
    I think it's too bad that people can be offended by prayer or not, jokes and political discussions. I for one enjoy political jokes even when it's my ox being gored. I also enjoy political debate, but since it violates your rules I try to restrain myself. There is lots of stuff posted I have no interest in. I just go on to the next discussion. Doesn't seem too hard to do.
  11. MiCarl
    You needn't pull the fairing to get to the CMS. Pull off the windshield, headlight and turn signals. Through the turn signal openings you can get to the phillips screws to pull the shroud off the cluster. Through the headlamp you can get to the 10mm nuts that hold the cluster in place. Unscrew the speedo cable and lift the cluster a bit. Then pull the two electrical connectors from the back and the cluster will be free. The CMS is mounted in from the back of the cluster. You have to twist it a little when removing because it's got a light pipe on it. BTW, one other significant change in the model line up: Starting in 1990 they went from a TCI igniter (with 4 pick up coils) to a computerized ignition (1 pick up coil). You cannot use a pre 1990 igniter or pick up coils in a late MKII or vice versa.
  12. MiCarl
    VIN search returns 1984 YAMAHA XVZ12D XVZ12 is the model. D tells us it's a Royale. Yamaha tagged on a year designator next (1984=L) So, it's an XVZ12DL. If it had California emissions it'd be an XVZ12DLC.
  13. MiCarl

    New Tires

    MiCarl replied to Panjandrum's topic in Watering Hole

    It's not just that they're slippery. Your old tires were likely worn in the center with harder edges as you transition into a curve. The new tire has a nice rounded cross section and will turn without you having to fight the tire over the edge. Part of the cautious use period is for you to adapt to the handling of the new tires. I have everyone that gets a new tire mounted in my shop sign a similar statement. It's so if some idiot runs out and races on his new tires his widow (hopefully) cannot successfully sue me for negligence. I have a friend that brought me the wheels from his 1st gen for new Venoms. His old tires were heavily worn in the center and had a more rectangular cross section. He didn't listen when I warned him and nearly took out his mailbox leaving the driveway because the bike was much more responsive than he was used to.
  14. MiCarl
    If there are three of them and they're yellow (or white) then they are the output from the stator (alternator). Failure to correct the problem will prevent the battery from charging. It is common for that connector to self destruct when 25 years of dirt and corrosion increase the resistance of the connector. A common solution is to cut the connector out and solder the wires together. The order is not important - any one wire from the stator to any one wire in the bike wiring harness.
  15. MiCarl
    That's the way to do it: Crash their bike in a parking lot. Way safer (and cheaper) than doing it later. Glad you're mostly ok.
  16. MiCarl
    Forget the window. You should feel foolish for skipping ice cream.
  17. MiCarl
    Here is how to make a poor mans leak down tester (requires a better compression gauge, the type where the gauge uncouples from the hose). Take the gauge off and remove the Schrader valve from the engine end of the tester hose. Screw the hose into the suspect cylinder. Set the pressure regulator on your air compressor to about 5PSI. Remove the oil fill plug. Turn the engine by hand until you're on the intake stroke of the cylinder you're testing. Hook the air hose to the compressor hose. You should hear air escaping from the intake. Turn the engine forward (counter clockwise, anticlockwise) by hand. When the intake valve closes you should not hear air leaking from anywhere. If it is listen at the oil fill, intake and exhaust to see where its coming from. BTW, if you use too much oil on a wet compression test it'll raise the numbers even if rings aren't the problem.
  18. MiCarl
    Without knowing exactly what in the module is failing it's hard to begin guessing what is killing it. It's not likely to be too much resistance or low voltage. More likely to be some type of short or voltage too high. High voltage should be cooking the battery and lights too, but it'd be worth checking the charging system. I'd also ohm out the primary on the coil(s) to make sure they aren't drawing too much current. Are they using a rebuilt ECM from someone that is using shoddy parts? Last year I needed one for my daughters Intrepid. I bought a re manufactured one that has a life time warranty. I don't remember where I bought it but I have the paperwork at the shop. I'll try to remember to dig it out tomorrow and send you the info.
  19. MiCarl
    That does seem to be the way the world is headed. I wouldn't be surprised if it's cheaper to build a V-Twin too.
  20. MiCarl
    I don't believe there is a fuel pressure switch. The fuel pressure is managed by the pump. It is a piston type pump. A spring behind the piston pushes the piston into the chamber forcing fuel through the outlet. When the piston travels far enough it closes a set of contact points. The points energize a solenoid pulling the piston back against the spring, drawing fuel through the inlet. The cycle repeats until the fuel pressure is high enough to overcome the spring at which point the pump stops cycling. As fuel travels into the carburetors the piston will begin to move, again closing the points when the pump chamber is empty. This is why when you first turn the key (and kill switch) on the pump clicks rapidly, then slows as pressure builds.
  21. MiCarl
    I developed the habit on my previous bike. Now I still do it even though the 1st gen has a gear indicator.
  22. MiCarl
    When they superseded the switch assembly they probably also changed to a socket head screw. **EDIT** Just checked. They changed the mounting bolt too. These kinds of things can be quite frustrating.
  23. MiCarl
    Today I used the Harbor freight lift to change the rear tire on an RSV. There was no problem dropping the wheel through the trap door. The rear was only jacked up enough to get the trap door out, I had to raise the bike some to get the door back in with the extra meat on the new tire. The wheel stop and vise were in their farthest forward positions. Putting a heavy bike on a lift backward is really a two man job. Since my helper didn't come in today I put it on a jack to do the front tire. I don't see any reason why dropping the front through the lift would be any harder than the rear. Generally I don't use the trap door for front tires because raising the bike an extra 2 inches will usually let the tire roll out under the fender. I find that easier than screwing with the door. I did have an issue with the lift initially not raising the motorcycle, the pressure relief valve on the jack kept popping. I turned the relief valve to its maximum setting (it was only about 1/8 turn from max) and it still wouldn't lift the motorcycle. Removing the helmet from the trunk got the weight down to where it would rise. I've had that same motorcycle on the lift before without a problem. He either has more weight on it than before or the spring in the relief valve has weakened a bit. My reference shows the curb weight of an RSV at 900 lbs., so it doesn't need a lot of extra stuff to push it to the 1000 lb. limit. I'd been planning to add a second lift this year and since the Harbor Freight lift also failed to lift a '96 GoldWing a couple weeks ago I decided to move now. I've added one of THESE to my shop. I haven't used it yet.
  24. MiCarl
    What happened to your stock gauge? Mine has the stock gauge. It reads about 14V at 3500 RPM and above whether I have the pair of 55W lights on or not. My bike also has some extra lighting on the trunk and bags. Sometimes I pull a trailer (with conventional incandescent lamps). I notice no effect on the volt gauge. At idle it's closer to 12V. If I apply brakes at idle it reads about 9V. From idle up until about 3500 RPM the driving lights seem to pull it down less than a volt. The cooling fan hasn't been on enough for me to notice its effect. When I'm in stop and go traffic or on residential streets I turn off the driving lights to make sure I'm not drawing the battery down any more than necessary.
  25. MiCarl
    You can also get them at the corner auto parts store. Not as inexpensive as McMaster, but works out if you only need a couple in a hurry.
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