MiCarl
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Everything posted by MiCarl
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1) E4 error is the controller sees no pressure sensor output voltage. I believe (others will chime in) that failed solder connections on the circuit board often cause this code. Compressor is under the trunk. 2) The battery warning light is an electrolyte low level indicator - not condition of the battery. The cell it's sticking into might be low...... 3) Straight cut primary gears are noisy. Cricket noise at those RPMs are entirely normal. Every motorcycle with straight cut primary gears makes it to some extent. Ride like you stole it. -
There was something in the news a few years back: In some communities solar powered clothes dryers are prohibited. People were getting hassled by their municipalities for using them.
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Slow return to idle; float issue?
MiCarl replied to MikeZ06Allen's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Agreed. Usually a vacuum leak. Supposedly can be sync, but I've never seen that personally. Leaking boost sensor......... -
By jove, I think he's got it. If I can help clarify: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] tells the interpreter to insert your signature picture into the web page it is displaying. When you mix other stuff in there the interpreter doesn't know what you are trying to do. It also might be filling Don's logs with 10,000 error messages.....
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Yep. Real tough to seat beads when the tire has collapsed from laying on its side. Also you want to store them where there isn't a lot of ozone (electric motors, electrical equipment) or ultraviolet light (sunshine).
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Bike lift help....
MiCarl replied to FuzzyRSTD's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Yeah, I always have problems with the thing wanting to scoot putting heavy bikes on. Good solution! -
Mebbe she needs to go on a diet:think:
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I'll bet a guy used to riding a V-twin could lug it. If you try to get rolling by just easing out the clutch without rolling the throttle up it'll buck like a bronco. This is where I'm confused though - someone used to inline fours should be used to lots of throttle and clutch slipping to get moving. Shouldn't lug under those conditions. But I will agree, I can't think of any reason it should "sound" like a V-twin.
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Not sure what you mean by "lugs a bit" in the context of being like a v-twin. The point of v-twins is they have great low end torque, so you can run them at low rpm without lugging. In line fours on the other hand really need to be spun up to produce any power and lug terribly at low rpm. The Venture V-4 is in between. It's got better low end torque than an in line four but not near as much as a v-twin (of similar displacement). It does like to rev though. If you're below 3,000 RPM it's not producing much power. You can put down the street at 1500 rpm, but if you want to get moving you gotta get the rpm up. Hope this helps.
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I can make some guesses, but I cannot tell you for certain. What I can say is that tires with two opposed arrows (one for front, the other for rear) used to be fairly common. With a few exceptions the manufacturers have stopped doing that. I think it's safe to assume that they did not do that because the manufacturing guys thought it'd be fun to have extra molds laying around.
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Somebody once posted a blurb from one of the manufacturers that said you can run a rear on the front backward, but under no circumstances should a front be used on the rear.
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Since you've found the R/R plug you can check the resistance there. It will have three white or three yellow wires. Check the resistance readings between pairs and each lead to ground. Somebody previously posted the specs. In general 0.5 to 1.0 ohm should be ok. Remember you have an extra length of wire and connector when measuring at the R/R so don't panic if your resistance is a hair above spec. Also check each wire to ground, there should be no continuity. The alternator and the rectifier portion of the Regulator/Rectifier are three phase. Generally all 3 phases don't fail together so you see some charging, just not up to spec. If none of the stator leads are shorted to ground I'd guess you either have a bad connection between the R/R and battery or the regulator portion of the R/R is shorted.
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The stock springs were dual rate. Tight winding on one end, broader spaced on the other with a sharp transition. Progressive springs change continually from tight to broad. Mine has what sounds like the same spring you have - single rate, much heavier wire than stock but lots of windings. The thing is very harsh. After some discussion with Snaggletooth about his blown fork seals it occurred to me that the stock volume of oil is probably too much for the spring I have. The extra volume the spring takes results in less air volume and a higher spring rate. Of course the $10 question is how much oil is appropriate for the different spring......
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I haven't read his write up, but I assume he's using grease to hold the oil lock in place during reassembly? I've never tried anything like that. It isn't necessary to remove the fairings to get them in and out - just the top panels that have the speakers mounted in them. It can be a bit tricky to get the air collars back over them on reassembly, but isn't too bad. If you decide to remove them watch for the rubber spacer (both sides) between the collar and top bridge - they like to fall behind the radiator. There is a spring clip under the collars that needs to be popped out to slide the fork through the lower tree. You do that on the way out so it's easy to get to. Don't forget to put it back before you slide the tube too far up.
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In answer to your current question: You do have the dust seal and retaining ring removed? If the retaining ring is still in they won't come apart. The upper bushing is pressed into the lower fork tube. The lower bushing will not pass through it. You use the upper tube like a slide hammer to drive the upper bushing out. Usually takes several brisk whacks. Of course this ruins the bushings, plan on replacing them. **CAUTION** When sliding the upper tube back in move it slowly. The oil lock will be rattling around in there someplace and you can damage it by hammering the upper into it. Move in slow then yank out briskly. When they come apart there will be fork oil everywhere. It does not matter how well you've drained them. Even if by some miracle you manage to drain every last drop of oil it will still fling oil everywhere.
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He didn't ask about how to put them together.............. But since you asked for him: Clean up the threads on the damping rod bolt and damping rod prior to reassembly. Install the damping rod, spring and spacers into the upper fork tube. Install the cap. Invert the upper fork tube and install the oil lock and springs onto the exposed end of the damping rod. Invert the lower fork tube and assemble down over the upper tube, damping rod and oil lock. Insert the damping rod bolt (with loctite) and crush washer. Usually the spring will provide enough force to let you properly torque the damping rod bolt. If not, you'll still need to make a tool as described before. Once the bolt is torqued disassemble the cap, spring and spacers to add oil.
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They often spin. The only way this works is if there is enough friction between the damping rod and the fork lower to overcome the bolt torque. Since the bolts have loctite on them that's hard to achieve. Using the impact might break it loose because then the inertia of the damping rod works for you. You can try compressing the fork to increase the friction. I use a great big bar clamp. You need to be careful that everything is secure though - a sudden release of the fork spring will create a dangerous object. Again the impact wrench might be the way to break it loose. If all else fails you'll have to remove the cap and spring and insert a tool to hold the damping rod while you extract the bolt. You can use a piece of 5/8 all thread with nuts jammed or welded on the ends as a tool. You could also use a 5/8 bolt with two nuts jammed on it, a socked and some extensions to reach down there. Caveat - I have a semi universal tool where the nut on one end is ground to 22mm, but I believe the Venture uses 24mm, which is close to a standard 5/8 nut.
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Coming home from MD weekend the left side of the trunk latch wouldn't open when we stopped to eat. I was able to force it open but then it wouldn't latch. When we arrived home the right latch wouldn't open. Again I had to force it. When I pulled the latch assembly off the trunk I found that the lock mechanism is held in by 2 screws, one was loose. Turns out there is a spring on each side that is continually trying to lock the latch, the lock cylinder pulls a mechanism against the springs to unlock. With the loose screw the pieces misalign causing the trunk to be locked even with the lock cylinder in the unlock position. Fortunately I was able to reassemble it and it now works fine. Just a tip that you might want to check those screws are snug. Apparently they can work loose in 20 years.....
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Just because it's faster than a 2nd gen doesn't necessarily make it a 1st gen......
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Venture Royale carburetor questions
MiCarl replied to unwind80's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If they won't screw in just remove them. The point of counting them in first is to get them right back to stock so you'd hopefully start closer to a good mixture. When you reassemble just put them at 2 1/2 turns and tune from there. If you've got some stuck now you might try heat again. Since there are springs and o-rings under there I'd suggest gently boiling them (maybe in lemon juice) rather than a torch. In theory using vacuum to set the mixtures should work. In practice you probably cannot read the gauges well enough for the really fine tweaks that make it run well. -
Koala eating an Apricot in Denmark.
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RepairManual.com
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Bike lift help....
MiCarl replied to FuzzyRSTD's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
FWIW, HERE is the new lift: http://www.directlift.com/Assets/ProcycleDTMain.jpg It's also made in China so I had to fix a couple things. The wheels didn't turn because the axle had powder coat on it so I had to clean it up and grease the wheels so they'd turn. One of the holes on the drop tail (which is removed in the picture above) was misaligned so I had to re-drill it. All in all though I think a pretty respectable lift for $675. -
Bike lift help....
MiCarl replied to FuzzyRSTD's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
The lifts at school would hold the bike up while you strapped it down. They had us use a spotter every time. Most of it is my own experience using the hydraulic Harbor Freight lift alone in my shop for three years. I just recently added an air lift that has an L shaped clamp that will hold the bike until I strap it down. Must say it requires a lot less ballet to use. One thing about the Harbor Freight lift (the hydraulic one) is that clamp makes it easier to put a bike like the RSV on backwards. That tall L clamp on the new lift tends to hit rear fenders and pipes and requires a bit of care not to damage something. The Harbor Freight lift is now relegated to back up for quick jobs when the air lift is tied up or for rear tires on cruisers and touring bikes. It's going to be refurbished this winter because it sometimes doesn't want to go up. I think there is some debris in the check valve. BTW, the Harbor freight lift has the holes for the tie down U bolts in the wrong place. You should drill new ones ahead of the wheel clamp. That way you can jack up the free end of the bike to work on tires, forks etc. With the tie downs in the middle of the lift you cannot do that. -
Bike lift help....
MiCarl replied to FuzzyRSTD's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I push them up. You have to get a running start (not riding on). It takes some practice to hit the opening in the clamp, especially backward. They drilled the crap out of us on it in school with bikes that were way lighter than an RSV. One of the drawbacks to that lift is that the clamp will not hold the bike upright. Here is how I've always done it: I wrap tie down extensions around the base of the handle bar or lower tree depending on the bike. I make sure my tie downs (I use the clamp type, not ratchet) have plenty of free length so I can get them to the extensions. I get the bike rolling and guide it up the ramp through the clamp and against the stop. I support the bike at the handle bar with my right hand and hook the tie down through the extension with my left, then draw enough slack out so the bike will lean just a bit to the right. I let the tie down take the weight, but keep my hand on as I move around to the right side. Then I hook the right tie down and take up the slack. Back to the left and pull that strap until the bike is standing straight. Rock the bike while tightening the clamp (this lets the tire walk across to the stationary side of the clamp). After the clamp is snug I pull the straps down to compress the forks a bit. Removing I loosen the clamp first. Then the straps a bit so the bike will wiggle side to side. I push up on the left bar and unhook the right strap. Then I stand the bike straight up and undo the left strap. I walk it back down with my right hand on the brake to control the speed. You have to be careful releasing the straps if you really crank down on them. The one you're not loosening can pull the bike away from you if the forks are really compressed. I don't tighten them that much (they just need to be enough to keep the bike from tipping) but I have a guy that helps out sometimes that really yanks them down. I have to release his in several steps right and left. If you have access to a smaller bike that's the way to practice. Ideally you have a spotter on the other side of the bike to help you if it starts to get away from you.