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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. You'd think the mechanic might have checked for that after the 2nd set failed.
  2. I use a Wig Wag module from Signal Dynamics.
  3. Don't start with the rectifier. My example was just to point out that the symptoms are consistent with ANY charging system failure. Fully charge the battery and have it load tested. Assuming it's ok start the motorcycle and use a volt meter to check the charging system voltage. Rev the engine a bit and you should see pretty close to 14 volts on the meter. If you're not seeing charging voltage then it is time to start looking for faults in the charging system. As Bob pointed out, it's still under warranty. I'd let the dealer find the problem.
  4. It uses 7/8" grips. I'll second the air, works every time. On the clutch side it helps to loosen the clutch perch and slide it up the bar so you can get the nozzle against the end of the grip. I usually use air to float new ones one too (unless I'm using adhesive).
  5. This is exactly what happened when the rectifier plug burned up on my 1st gen. The radio would cut out when I used the brakes, eventually the ignition system shut down when I made a full stop. Of course it wouldn't start again either (dead battery). Interestingly the CB was quite happy with the low voltage, so I was able to radio the others in the group. I'd check out the charging system.
  6. Starting in 90 and in the 2nd gens they went to a computerized ignition with a single pick up coil. They don't have TCIs. The processor calculates the ignition timing and controls each coil. I wouldn't think there is a way the different sparks would have different advances. The TCIs have a separate functional unit for each coil, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's analog. The net is the 89 and earlier Ventures have four ignition modules in one box. Where I saw one spark not advancing was on ... DRUM ROLL ... a Virago. Sure seems like Yamaha managed to cram just about every problem they ever had into them. Second gear does seem to hold up on them though - perhaps it's because they rarely run.
  7. The tool is HERE. You can see it isn't cheap. If you join here you're eligible for 15% off. You get full access to the site for a year and end up with an extra 60 cents in your pocket! I have one in stock. You can pick it up or meet me near Munith this weekend. Welcome to our community.
  8. When you check for timing advance you need to check the timing of all four coils. I've seen TCIs where some advanced and some didn't. I suspect the boost sensor tells the TCI to advance the timing a bit more when the intake pressure is high (light load). I cannot imagine it could cause the engine to fall on its face. Older Goldwings used a vacuum advance on the pick up coil plate to accomplish the same thing. It's quite common to just disconnect them when the actuator starts to leak.
  9. Could still be restricted exhaust. The exhaust has to clear way more air when the engine is loaded vs. revving without a load. This is the same reason it could be the intake side as well. A loaded engine at 5200rpm is pumping a lot more air than an unloaded one.
  10. Unless you get a tilting trailer you need to make sure your ramp (or tailgate if it's used as a ramp) is long enough that there is enough clearance for the bike going over the back edge of the trailer. I prefer a wide ramp that I can stand on with the motorcycle rather than the typical narrow motorcycle ramp. If you're getting an enclosed trailer get one where the rear door opens down to make a ramp. Then add a wheel chock of your choice to the front of the trailer. A winch is a great extra. It's fairly obvious how it helps loading but it's equally helpful unloading. You can control the motorcycle's descent with the winch rather than relying on the front brake. That front wheel can slide out if you grab the brake, especially if things are wet. My winch has a long control cable but I see Harbor Freight selling some inexpensive winches with wireless remotes. Of course you'll have to wire your tow vehicle to power the winch if it doesn't already have axillary power for a trailer. Tie down extensions (which are a heavy nylon strap sewn into a figure 8) are very handy. You can loop them over a structural member then hook your winch or tie downs to them.
  11. Your post got me thinking....... You can get an engine to rev under low/no load without normal spark advance. That would be a possibility. When that happens the intake noise makes a rather deep "BWAAAA" sound. I really can't describe it any better but once you've heard it you never forget. Of course if the advance was failing on only some of the cylinders the sound might not be that noticeable......
  12. No TPS on 1st gen. My reasoning is that he can get it to go past 5200 rpm with low load, it just tops out on him when he's into the throttle. Only ignition component that "sees" anything about load is the pressure sensor (who's proper name is currently escaping me). Coils, Pick up coils (4 of them) ignition wires etc don't "know" what the throttle position or load is. Spark plugs will see the higher pressures and temperatures and the TCI gets an input from the pressure sensor so any of these might be the problem but they'd be low on my list given the symptoms. Since the float bowls store some fuel problems with the vents, lines, filter etc. usually exhibit as stumbling after the throttle is applied. In other words, it initially gets going but then falls down. So I wouldn't start there either. Air delivery is a likely cause. I'd look really closely at the filter, air box and carburetor-air box joints first. Need to get that stuff out to get to the carbs anyhow. Usually gummed up/dirty carburetors exhibit problems at idle first. I did recently have a Virago in the shop that had high speed carburetor issues. Apparently someone had previously cleaned the carbs but couldn't get one main jet out. The needle jet (emulsion tube) behind that jet was all plugged up. If I were doing this job and got past the air box I'd be looking very closely at the needle jets and the slides (sticking?) and slide diaphragms.
  13. Put a strap around the ac and tie to a tree branch. Git a bunch of yer buddies to help you twist the bike around so it points the same way as the vents.
  14. Good thoughts. I will disagree on one point: If you can get it to red line at part throttle (even in neutral) it's probably not ignition related. I'll add that a tight valve could also be your culprit. The safe money though says it's fuel system, which includes carburetors. $200 is way too low for the work that is supposed to have been done. It's very unlikely it was done properly.
  15. The flashing indicator tells you to look at the CMS display (the CMS display is the window above the clock). The CMS will light one or more of the seven symbols to warn you of a condition that needs your attention. Side stand down is one of them (top left), as is low fuel. E4 is a message from the controller that it sees no output voltage on the pressure sensor. I believe bad solder connections on the board frequently cause this.
  16. If that's how she dresses to actually ride she'll be done the first time a large insect or stone hits her shin or foot.
  17. If you go there the falls are well worth the stop.
  18. The tires run $300.77. There is 6% Michigan Sales tax brings the tires to $318.82. Installation is $162.50. Total 481.32 all taxes and fees included. If you want me to do it call the shop tonight (734) 446-5874 and leave a message with your cell phone number. I'll check with the warehouse when they open at 9:00 to make sure they have them in stock then give you a call. It is important that you leave me a message tonight because I will not go into the shop in the morning unless I'm going to meet you.
  19. I hope it goes while you're there, they often are delayed. Kind of sad really. It's going to be the first time since I was a toddler that this nation won't have a way to put a warm body into orbit. Meanwhile it seems like all the emerging economies are almost there. Hopefully the private guys will come on soon.
  20. Not a problem. I'm at least an hour from Highland. Definitely C&C and maybe even a Flint dealer would be closer to him.
  21. I don't stock tires, but get them from a local warehouse. Problem is their inventory system requires an old version of Internet Explorer which I don't run here at home so I cannot check availability for you. You can check my tire prices on line Thunder Valley Powersports Tire Store. Mounting and balancing will be $65 on bike/ $25 if you just bring the wheel. I had planned to do some work at home in the morning before going in. If you want me to do the tire, post here and we'll try to work something out for you to get it tomorrow if that is what you want. You didn't say where you are in your travels. If you like we can even arrange for you to drop off today on your way up. I'll check messages periodically today in case you try to call. Good luck!
  22. There are a couple issues with the D404: They aren't known for having long tread life and the 149/90-16 has a modest weight rating. You're going to have quite a bit of weight on it with the hack. You'll get higher weight ratings from the Dunlop Elite III, Avon Venom, Kenda Kruz or Metzeler ME880. Of course some people have issues with the 880s. According the Dunlop tire web site it's not a good idea putting radial tires on a motorcycle designed for bias tires. They claim that the bikes using radial tires have the suspension set up specifically for radial use. Of course the side car changes all the rules anyhow....... Any motorcycle tire is going to wear quickly with your set up though.
  23. Two sets of pads, one set slotted, other not, maybe?
  24. This sounds more like an ignition system problem to me. Surprisingly mine ran fine until using electricity for the brake lights completely killed it. The only symptom I had was the radio quitting, probably when I used the brakes heading into curves. Surprisingly my ignition system seemed content with less juice than the radio needs. The tack dropping to 0 indicates the TCI is not firing a cylinder (#2 I think). By all means check out the charging system, but I think you'll find the problem is with an ignition component or wiring.
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