MiCarl

I filed 6 this year: My mother's estate Federal return. My mother's Federal return. My mother's State of Ohio return. My business S-Corp Federal return. My personal Federal return. My personal State of Michigan return. It was a long, grueling weekend.

An RSTD won't suddenly die from a fuel problem. It'll hesitate, lose power, backfire etc. His problem sounds electrical/ignition.

The hydraulics aren't open to the side of the engine case. The hydraulics push a piston that is sealed to the slave cylinder bore. As a general rule you don't need to open the hydraulic system to replace the seal on the clutch rod. That presumes there is enough play in the clutch line to move the slave out of the way, I've never done it on a Venture so I don't know if there is. After you pull the slave off you need to prevent the piston from creeping out and opening the system. I usually put a couple zip ties around them. Try and locate the ties so the ears and line keep them from sliding off. Then cut them away when you're ready to put it back on the motorcycle. Of course you don't want the clutch lever to be pulled while the slave is off. If there is a chance of it getting pulled or accidentally grabbed remove the lever while you do the job.

I work on them. You can give my shop a call Monday: (734) 446-5874. Link to my web site is in my signature.

If your GPS is interconnected with the motorcycle audio system you likely have a ground loop making the noise. Easy enough to check because the noise will disappear if you disconnect either the audio or power circuit for the GPS. I had a similar problem when I put a GPS on my first gen. The solution is a "ground loop isolater". I got mine at RadioShack which won't be an option but I believe car audio shops have them.

I do not know, have not tried. My guess is it wouldn't get in to where you need it to originally break them free. Once they're free a good hard ride will probably clean them up.

It's not that oil makes them stick. It's lack of oil from sitting a long time and possibly some corrosion too. Of course if the clutch lever has too much free play that can also be a problem, or make it harder to unstick them. Make sure the clutch lever is adjusted properly. When you pull it the end should only move 1/4" or so before you start to feel tension. Then move the motorcycle to a location with good traction. A dry concrete driveway is usually pretty good, garage floors and asphalt rather slippery. Without the motorcycle running work the transmission into 5th gear. Do this by rocking the motorcycle back and forth gently as you shift up. Now pull the clutch lever and rock the motorcycle back and forth hard. The idea is to have the hammering from the drive line break it free. If it does break free you need to ride it hard with lots of gear shifting to clean up the clutch pack. If that doesn't work you'll need to tear it down and rebuild the clutch.

I hold clutch baskets by putting the transmission in the highest gear (5th, in this case) and having a helper apply the rear brake.

All other considerations aside unless that 13 acres is like a golf course the zero turn will beat you to death and likely break. They're for lawns. There is also the four times/year of mowing. Around here that grass would be 2 feet tall at mowing - not a zero turn job. Sounds more like you're mowing a pasture. That's farm equipment. Like Don, around here 8N tractors with a brush hog are readily available for under $3k.

I haven't used it but supported it on a forum I used to run. People that were using it would miss things because it didn't support all the features of the forum. Been a few years, might have changed.

When you buy an extended warranty the company pools your money with that of all the other buyers. From that pool they pay for the repairs, their expenses and their profits. So overall the buyers of the warranties are paying in more than they have in repair costs. It's like any other insurance: you're almost sure to be a loser but is nice to have if you need it. If I had to have the vehicle to get to work and a major repair would wipe me out (or worse) I'd get one. Otherwise walk away.

You could only be sure by checking the level before you drain it. Full to the threads is correct. The final drive oil also lubricates the final drive end of the drive shaft. No need to worry about that unless you pull it apart. The engine end of the final drive shaft gets grease. Not a bad idea to pull it apart anytime you have the rear wheel off and lube it. I think Yamaha probably calls for a lithium soap based grease but I prefer a moly grease for that application. Moly grease should also be applied to the splines on the rear wheel drive hub.

Oh, and by the way: It's not a differential, a differential allows two different driven wheels move at different speeds. You've only got one driven wheel so...... It is called a final drive. On your car or truck the final drive is integrated into the differential.

There isn't much there. Most of the volume is taken up by the gears.

Ok, so the book I have is for a 1st gen, but I believe yours will be the same. SAE 80 GL-4 hypoid gear oil. Capacity .21 Qt (a little less than a cup). I always just use 80W90 GL-5.

There is a machine to test them. In my case I have a 2nd set (Harbor Freight) that are only used occasionally to validate my daily users. The HF adjusters are rough and hard to turn - feel almost like there is sand in them, not something you'd want to use every day. They do seem to be accurate though.

A lot of young people aren't interested in a driver's license of any kind. The world is a changin'.

Bear in mind I've got a couple margaritas under my belt......... From your own description it sounds like the Nissan is the hands down winner.

Not as likely, starter doesn't spin the engine all that fast. If another cylinder fires though it's sure to break things.

Unfortunately you're going to have to remove the speedometer from the cluster and see what's going on in there. A speedometer is a fairly delicate instrument, that's why I've never been a fan of tackling a bearing howl with a grease gun. I suspect you've pushed the shaft out of the bearing and the rotor is hitting the cup.

I seriously doubt if the guy advanced the timing. You'd have to re-machine the flywheel rotor to do it with a stock TCI. What aftermarket ignition did you use? I know the ignitech unit Dingy was selling could be programmed to not fire the plugs during the first revolution but do not recall if it was that way out of the box. My ignitech is programmed to not fire on the first revolution and it does seem like the engine cranks forever. To change it you need the data cable and ignitech software. Personally I like the delay. With downdraft carbs it insures you don't damage something if a carburetor leaks into a cylinder.

That's not necessarily true. Big = directional, and if you're close to the towers they're likely to be in multiple directions. That means you have to re-aim it depending on the channel you want to watch. When we bought our house it had a huge antenna on the roof. We have a half dozen transmitters within 15 miles across about a 100 degree angle. Every time we switched channels we had to re-aim the antenna. When we had some remodeling done that was changing the roof line I took the antenna down and put a "temporary" $20 antenna from Home Depot in the attic. It worked so well it became our permanent antenna and that monster that was on the roof went to the recycler. Here is a SITE that will help you determine the best antenna for your location. The industry color codes them so they're simple to pick out.

You've got a problem: As it's wired the lights will come on with the high beam only if your manual switch is turned off. By getting power for the high beam relay from 87A of the switched relay the high beam relay only has power with the switch off. You need to connect terminal 30 from the high beam relay to terminal 30 of your switched relay to have the high beams turn on the passing lights regardless of your switch position.

He's got a long list of "might need" items. Plan on doing any wrenching yourself. There aren't many shops that will work on a bike that old. They were good motorcycles though.

Working backwards on part numbers: 00-00 = revision and color numbers 23141 = means it's a fork spring 4WM/4XY = first model it was used in. Every Yamaha fork spring will have 23141 in that second field.