Jump to content

MiCarl

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,442

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Sierra also has good prices on the J&M headsets: J&M at Sierra Electronics You need a 5 pin headset, same is GoldWing. We use the full face headset that is currently $84, at the bottom of the page. Works great. Only complaint is the mic is large, so finding a good spot for it in the chin bar can be challenging.
  2. MiCarl
    For about $50 more than the base model you can get one with the intercom. That'll let you save the bucks from the Scala system. The biggest drawback I see to the J&M is that they use pricier headsets. The only other system I've seen is a cobra handheld with some accessories to make it work for a motorcycle. Works well enough, but isn't very elegant. I also don't believe it's weather proof.
  3. MiCarl
    Your Twinkie is leaking. You'll need to drain the cooling system and put in new gaskets.
  4. MiCarl
    I believe mine has a smaller diameter bolt. You could also just drill the threads out of the welded nut.
  5. MiCarl
    eBay shows you the CarFax report. Since the title hasn't transferred CarFax doesn't know about the 11,000 mile odometer.
  6. MiCarl
    Part of the break in period is also for you to get used to the new edge. Just ride 100 miles without really laying into the throttle or any sudden cornering.
  7. MiCarl
    I agree with BOO - the ones with miles often seem to be in better condition. Almost all the problems I see in the shop are because of age or neglect (or both). The one that's just been sitting in the back of a garage seems more likely to have problems than one that is ridden regularly.
  8. MiCarl
    Carbs out of sync will cause some popping too. That is a maintenance item.
  9. MiCarl
    Sounds like it's only leaking under pressure. That should rule out loose pan bolt, drain plug, oil level sender. As pointed out by others - everything behind the middle gear cover has oil pressure on it when running.
  10. MiCarl
    Wow! Looks like someone paid the weather man a handsome bribe. Wish we could join you, but glad to see it's going to be nice.
  11. MiCarl
    That's right. The button shouldn't affect the mic at all. It only switches between the speakers and earphones. And when you use the PTT switch it cuts out the speakers. Only reason you should get feedback is if the guy next to you has his speakers cranked up.
  12. MiCarl
    I want to reinforce what others have said: You have to quite far North to be assured of seeing them. We used to vacation regularly in the Northern part of lower Michigan. I think we saw them once. I believe there had been an unusual solar event as we could even see them to the South.
  13. MiCarl
    +1. And since the mark you measure to is on the float bowl you might want to put a mark on the diaphragm cover so you can check them without removing the carbs next time.
  14. MiCarl
    No, it's the crown in the road. You're always turning a bit left to overcome the tendency to drift downhill.
  15. MiCarl
    I've seen it. The bike I saw it on I believe was factory (not a Venture though). Many carb kits come with replacement plugs though, having plugs doesn't guarantee it wasn't messed with.
  16. MiCarl
    If you don't know where they are you didn't take them out and your carburetors certainly are not clean. Dingy's post tells you where they are. You need to pull the carbs again and get the plugs out. I like to drill a small hole and run a screw in so I have something to grab to pull on them. Be careful you don't go charging through with a drill and damage the screws underneath. I like to put a punch mark on the carb body lined up with the slot in it's screw. You can also scribe them. A marker is likely to get washed off when you clean. Gently turn each screw in until it lightly bottoms, counting the turns and fractions relative to your mark. Record these so you can put the screws back where you got them. Do not force the screws tight as they have a needle tip that will bind and ruing the carb body. Under each screw is a spring, flat washer and rubber o-ring. I use a bent piece of steel wire (wire brush bristle) to fish them out. When you reinstall you put the pieces on the mixture screw and the o-ring will hold it all together while you insert it in the carb body. Tighten down gently then back out to the number of turns you wrote down earlier. It's important to completely disassemble the carburetors (except the throttle butterflies) and spray carburetor through every passage, making sure it is open. Then blow out with compressed air. Do not soak the carburetor bodies in a bath of cleaner. There are o-rings on the butterfly shafts that the cleaner will ruin. You also need to remove the jets from the jet block and make sure they are clean and open by shining a light through them. Do not dig at them with any kind of wire because you can damage the orifices. Do the carburetors one at a time so you don't interchange any parts.
  17. MiCarl
    Sounds like the battery is probably on its last legs. Pull it out, charge it, and have it load tested.
  18. MiCarl
    Not likely sync. Probably more than one carb not properly cleaned.
  19. MiCarl
    Pulling the pins would only kill the headset speakers, it won't make the audio come through the speakers in the fairing. There is a switch that makes the audio come out the speakers rather than the headphones. It's on the audio controller and labeled "H.PH". Pushing it should toggle between the speakers and headset.
  20. MiCarl
    You want all the butterflies open pretty close to the same amount. There are a number of ways to accomplish that. I like to sight through them at a light and judge the crescent of light showing through them. Others like to use some sort of gauge to feel them. A thin piece of wire (like a small paper clip) or a narrow strip of business card are supposed to work. Because of the shape I think a piece of thin wire is probably the most reliable for this method.
  21. MiCarl
    You can save your breath. They'd just lie to you. If your threads are pulled from the holes you should put an insert in. You need enough thread to torque them properly. If course if it's the bolts that are stripped you should just replace them.
  22. MiCarl
    The point of the Molybdenum grease is it stays put rather than working out under pressure. In your final drive the gears are re-bathed in oil every revolution. The moly grease is for non wet applications where a conventional grease can be worked out by high pressure. Yamaha specifies it for the final drive splines and some other places. I suspect the "clicking" of the final drive pins is a stick-slip condition of the parts moving relative to each other. No reason not to use moly grease to quiet it although peanut butter would be cheaper:Avatars_Gee_George:
  23. MiCarl
    It's an actual pump (at least on first gen). It's also got internal valving that is used to adjust the vacuum in the system. I'll bet it won't work worth a damn with a vacuum slave that has different characteristics than the one that Yamaha uses.
  24. MiCarl
    I always twist the fork tube to break the stiction to the o-rings in the air collars. Then I can wiggle them off. There are a pair of soft rubber cushion rings between the air collar and upper tree. Watch for them as they tend to fall behind the radiator if you don't snag them. Then I slide the tube down until the circlip is near the lower tree. Pretty easy to pop the clip off there.
  25. MiCarl
    I had a 92 S-10 Blazer with the Vortec 4.3 V6. One of the best vehicles I've owned. Not sure how much they changed by 98. That was the period where GM really started to turn out some crap. It took 120K miles on my 97 Yukon until enough OEM parts were replaced with aftermarket and engineering changes so it wasn't always broken. Now at 202K miles it's more reliable than it was at 20K.
×
×
  • Create New...