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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    The controller doesn't get power with the motorcycle on, Automatic just lets you set High, Medium, or Low rather than holding the little buttons forever. It doesn't monitor at all. The only common point between the front and rear is the valve body and compressor. I'd start looking for leaks there.
  2. MiCarl
    I wonder about the workmanship in the other joints and whether tapping on that elbow might open up others. This might be one of those times when it's worth the $$ to bring in a pro. In any case, I wouldn't be in any hurry to redo the sheet rock in the basement. Make sure the pipe is good before closing up.
  3. MiCarl
    There should be a Y pipe where the sink drain connects to the stack. My guess is you'll find your leak where the sink drain connects to the Y. The rest of the pipe is vertical enough the water should rush past the joints rather than leak (unless you have a blockage). If you have a screw run into the drain I doubt it would leak. A friend had a sheet rock screw into a cold water pipe and it didn't leak until he removed the screw. A screw would create a nice place for a blockage to build up though.....
  4. MiCarl
    The coatings probably won't help much if he flushes:rotf:.
  5. MiCarl
    It's not just motorcycles they don't see. At least weekly I avoid mashing someone that doesn't see my GMC Yukon coming down the road. Most of them would be severely injured if I weren't on my toes. Unfortunately, it cuts the other way for the biker.
  6. MiCarl

    How To ?

    MiCarl replied to ragtop69gs's topic in Watering Hole

    Frankly, I know someone who can probably weld it. By the time you pay him and the gas to come down here and back you'll be almost into a new one anyhow. Only reason to do that is speed. Not exactly prime riding season. The online parts discounters should get one to you in about a week.
  7. MiCarl
    I just read in the last couple days that there are major shortages of medications used in hospitals, primarily painkillers. I wonder if the issue is they're saving what they got for emergencies. You could ask if he'd allow you a swig of whiskey and a bullet to bite on.......
  8. MiCarl
    The ignition system 90-93 is different, so ideally you'd get one of those. Otherwise anything 86 or later should be compatible. There were some fork changes after 86 but entire forks should bolt up.
  9. MiCarl
    Not without their weights I can't, but you can do it: Add rider at 30% front, 70% rear. Add passenger and contents of bags 0 front, 100% rear.
  10. MiCarl
    Since it was a good excuse to touch the bike I did some measuring. With oil and full fuel tank and nothing in the bags it looks like there is about 305.5 lbs. on front and 477.5 lbs on rear. Rider sits back a bit from the center stand contact point. Looks to me like rider weight is 30% front, 70% rear. Cargo and passenger is all on the rear wheel. So my numbers: With gear I weigh about 260. That's 182 rear and 78 front. That puts me at 659.5 rear and 383.5 front without cargo or wife. My rear Kenda Kruz is a 77H, rated for 908 lbs. 908-659.5 = 248.5 lbs. available on the rear tire. SWMBO manages to bring along about 40 lbs. of stuff. 248.5 - 40 = 208.5 available. I do not know what SWMBO weighs. I suspect that with gear she's close to 200 lbs. 208.5 - 200 leaves me 8.5 lbs. for error. ********** All this explains why, unless you're Japanese and subsisting on rice and fish, you should probably keep your rear tire inflated to its maximum pressure. It also explains why D404s (74H=827lbs.) don't tend to last long on our bikes.
  11. MiCarl
    Here is how I estimated the answer on a MKII: Since the bike is petty close to perfectly balanced on the center stand I measured from the point the center stand touches the ground to both of the tire contact patches. Using the weight of the bike from the book I was able to calculate how much weight on each tire for an unloaded bike. Rider weight is right over center stand so I split my weight 50/50 front/rear. SWMBO sits over the rear wheel - all her weight goes on back. Saddle bags at the rear wheel so their contents all fall on the back wheel. Since the trunk is behind the axle it'll actually transfer a bit of weight from the front to the rear wheel. It's weight capacity is low and it doesn't have much leverage so I didn't worry about it. Besides, we store our lids in there so it's pretty much empty when we ride the motorcycle. When it was all said and done I figured we were REAL close to 900 lbs. on the rear tire. I didn't keep any of the numbers, but you should be able to grab a measuring tape and figure it yourself.
  12. MiCarl
    The upper bushing is pressed into the lower fork tube just below the fork seal. The lower bushing is split and snaps into a channel at the bottom of the upper fork tube. I'm assuming you have the service manual. It's available in the tech library.......... When you disassemble the fork you are essentially using the inner tube as a slide hammer to pull the upper bushing. (Take very seriously the manual recommendation to not pound the tubes together during the back stroke, you can damage the anti dive). Once apart the bushings will be quite obvious hanging on the inner tube. I believe the service manual says to replace them if forks are disassembled. After you get the tubes separated you should realize you've just been hammering the bushings against each other and the replacement is a pretty darn good idea. The bushings are copper or brass with a PTFE coating. If you can see any of the metal through the PTFE on the inside of the upper bushing or the outside of the lower bushing they are worn out.
  13. MiCarl
    One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post and was just reminded of in another forum: If the fork bushings are shot the new seals will wear out fast. You need to put in new ones or make sure the old ones are in good shape.
  14. MiCarl
    I'll be working the STAR Touring desk in the AM Sunday. Anyone who is there then please come by and say hi.
  15. MiCarl
    You can damage any seal during installation if you're not careful. I cut the wrist lip off a nitrile glove and pull it over the end of the fork before installing the seals. Of course everything gets liberally lubed with new oil. Of course if the tubes are dirty or pitted your seal life will be limited. The seals are also useless if you put them in upside down. All balls seals I avoid like the plague. As far as I know they're not prone to leaking but they have been extremely difficult to install every time I've used them. I generally use K&L or oem seals. To my knowledge none has ever failed, but I won't put them on damaged tubes and am very careful during install.
  16. MiCarl
    I think this is very good advice. Getting someone to show up on time and do the job right is often a big challenge (ask Yammer Dan). Did the contractors guys even deliver the materials? I'm under the impression that the materials suppliers generally deliver to the site.
  17. MiCarl
    Having it level maximizes your ground clearance. It also makes the cargo floor level. Remember, you want it level when the bike is loaded.
  18. MiCarl
    Assuming someone knows what he's doing disconnecting the battery on a 1st gen is no trick at all. That would pretty much disable any alarm. The steering lock on the other hand is quite a different matter. I suppose a well placed blow with a large hammer could break the lock cylinder off, but isn't something that can be done on the sly. With the steering locked no one is likely to ride or push it away.
  19. MiCarl
    That's really not accurate. The battery isn't a bottomless pit, anything connected there will still require the charging system to put out enough watts to keep up. The isolator keeps the extra load off the switches, flashers and bike wiring so you don't overload any of them. If you're going with LEDs I don't see any reason for an isolator. If you stick with the 4 wire set up though you'll need the adapter box so the signals and brake lights work properly.
  20. MiCarl
    I cannot stress enough that the impact screwdriver is a required tool for working on your motorcycle. It should be in your box right next to the duct tape and WD-40.
  21. MiCarl
    Wow! Mike got hisself the perfect woman!
  22. MiCarl
    That's good advice Bob. If he gets it recovered he can have the foam customized to his tailbone while he's at it. More important he can add a little bit for his navigator.
  23. MiCarl

    Nitto Tires

    MiCarl replied to Bobby G's topic in Watering Hole

    That Yukon had always been terrible in snow. The front wanted to plow ahead rather than turn, even in 4wd. Now it pulls right around in 6" snow, haven't had a chance to run them in anything deeper. They were good enough to pull me through a deep pile, right until 3 of them ended up hanging in the air. None of my other tires have been good enough to get me that stuck.
  24. MiCarl

    Nitto Tires

    MiCarl replied to Bobby G's topic in Watering Hole

    I'm pretty well convinced that the extra $$ of a name brand anything is mostly to cover the marketing budget. All those T.V. commercials and signage at the races don't come cheap. Fall '10 I needed new shoes for my 97 Yukon that had 197K miles on it. I didn't want to spend more than the truck was worth. I ended up getting a set of Hankook (never heard of them) Dynapro ATMs installed for $397 after rebate. Hands down best traction of any tire I've ever put on, although a little noisy at 35-40MPH.
  25. MiCarl
    I assume you're looking for the 1960 version? I found it on Netflix, but only streaming. They do not offer a DVD version. I take that to mean that a DVD does not exist. I found copies of a 2003 version on eBay, but my guess is that's not the one you're looking for.
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