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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Once you have the retaining spring out you use the upper as a slide hammer to drive the bushing and seal out. CAUTION: Do not slam the tube back down on your return stroke, you can damage the oil lock. Out = fast and hard, in = slow 'n easy.
  2. MiCarl
    Oh, Trailers. In Michigan trailers are very high, but the registration never expires. And I'm sure nobody EVER moves their plates to a new trailer.
  3. MiCarl
    My 97 Yukon is $123 Wife's 04' Aviator $174 89 Venture $23 $320 last birthday.
  4. MiCarl
    What about the bushings?
  5. MiCarl
    What seal are you talking about? The oil seal should come out with the bushing when you pull the tubes apart.
  6. MiCarl
    You got two powerful lobbies in favor - farm and environmental. Don't hold your breath.
  7. MiCarl
    The (relatively small) pressure drop in the carburetor throat allows air pressure to push fuel through the jets and into the air stream. Because the pressure differentials involved are small it doesn't take much change in the fuel level to significantly impact the amount of fuel pushed into the intake. Before the 80s the manufacturers specified a float height, much like dynodon described. By the mid 80s though the EPA had cracked down enough on emissions that the manufacturers had to run them on the very edge of too lean. The float height method is too crude to get the level to a point that runs well without violating emissions. From that point on the spec is for an actual fuel level measurement rather than a physical float height. Your service manual will describe how to measure it. The plugs over your pilot screws is for the same reason: the engine is set up lean enough they shouldn't be turned in, and turning them out will violate emissions standards.
  8. MiCarl
    The plugs were required by the EPA to keep you from adjusting them. There is really no need to replace them. When you drill the old ones use high speed and light pressure, you don't want to drop through and bugger the pilot screw. Then screw any kind of self tapping screw (I use a sheetrock screw) you have lying around into the hole and pull on it with pliers to get the plug out. If you cleaned the carburetors with them in they're not cleaned properly. Time to redo them.
  9. MiCarl
    http://www.cyclepartsnation.com is in Kalamazoo. Prices are real good and shipping is very fast. Problem is since they're in Michigan they'll nick you sales tax.
  10. MiCarl
    You can also get a 5/8" bolt and jam a couple nuts on that. Use some extensions to get the socket down to the bolt. In case you're wondering what's going on - the bolt you're trying to remove screws into the damping rod. The top of the rod has a 12 point recess that is just like a socket and you're 5/8 bolt head will lock right in. Since the Damping rod is loaded by the spring I always try to break that bolt loose during the first step of dissassembly, more than half the time I end up not needing to grab it from the top. Once you get it spinning though the spring is unlikely to help.
  11. MiCarl
    On my 89, if I put it on the center stand and pull the front axle it'll tip back onto the rear wheel without a support at all. Even if the MK1 is lighter in the rear you're only looking at a couple lbs. to keep the nose up. You can safely do that under the oil pan. Of course even if it does tip back you want something under there because at some point you'll set something on it or lean on it..........
  12. MiCarl
    I doubt they ever got into the splines. In any case, splines look good in the picture. When you order that bearing you also need to order the part they call "collar". The "collar" is the inner race.
  13. MiCarl
    I wonder if they're replacing gaskets when the problem is with the cover or housing itself.....
  14. MiCarl
    Yeah, I wasn't going to say anything because it's not code, but I do the same thing. My 6K runs 2 fridges, deep freeze, two furnaces and the electronics to keep us entertained. Water heaters and range are gas. Last time I used it I learned that if you forget to turn the breakers for the furnaces back on it's 53 degrees in the AM, but you only use a half gallon of gasoline.
  15. MiCarl
    Turned out it wasn't a three way. Was a four way! BEAN!
  16. MiCarl
    Having a Three Way tonight. Jealous?
  17. MiCarl
    As has been implied here, once the light comes on it will stay on for awhile even if the problem goes away or is corrected. It can be reset with a code reader or by disconnecting the battery, but will reset itself after a certain number of starts without the fault recurring. You need to get the code(s) read to know what is going on. The service engine light on my 1997 Yukon with 180,000 miles came on. I was surprised when I read the codes that it was not an oxygen sensor preheater, since those commonly wear out. Instead it's a low voltage condition in the O2 sensor circuit. Could be a problem with the ECM - lots of $$. It runs like a scalded cat and gets 17mpg highway. I've opted to ignore the light. You would think the darn bulb would burn out in 25,000 miles though.
  18. MiCarl
    Pumping the suspension up will help, but it's not the whole story. Getting it on the center stand is more about technique than muscle. The way I do this is to stand on the left of the motorcycle, left hand on the grip and right hand on the passenger grab bar - bars straight. Push down on the center stand pedal with right foot until the feet contact the ground. Rock the motorcycle a bit to make sure BOTH feet are down. If they're not both down the job will be almost impossible. Now use your leg to push the pedal into the ground. You want to use your very strong leg instead of your girly man arm. Your right arm on the passenger bar is more to anchor you than to lift with. Rock the motorcycle rearward a bit as you push down and it'll pop up like it's spring loaded.
  19. MiCarl
    The TCI grounds the coil via the gray wire. Hot is provided by the red/white wire to the coils. Most of the time the engine is operating the gray wire should read 0 volts to ground. I believe the the TCI will drop the ground if the engine is not turning, resulting in the gray wire reading (+) 12V. I don't know if that's instant or if there is some kind of time delay. I'd be inclined to use a test light with its (+) connected to the battery and probe the gray wire with the light (-) and the engine running. If you have continuity back to the TCI and power to the tach your light should flash.
  20. MiCarl
    Be nice if it somehow ended up in the tech library too.
  21. MiCarl
    That sure contradicts my own experience. My 15 year old lawn tractor is only on its second battery. I've never owned a boat or motorcycle long enough that I needed to replace a battery. Everything I have that gets stored is on a maintainer or float charger. They stop charging when the battery is fully charged. While I've never owned a Battery Tender brand charger, they are also supposed to automatically switch to float mode when the battery is fully charged. I agree a conventional charger will ruin a battery if left on. A standard 2 amp charger will push 2 amps into the battery whether it's charged or not, eventually cooking all the electrolyte out. Of course I do check the electrolyte level in all my conventional batteries at least twice a year. I believe most lead acid batteries die young because they've either stood around discharged or the electrolyte level wasn't maintained.
  22. MiCarl
    I think you're going to find it's in the ballpark. At this point I think you're going to need to work one out and take the measurement. Then the others should be pretty quick.
  23. MiCarl
    Now that I see Dingy's post it occurs to me I might not have answered the question you were asking. Been awhile since I was in mine but as I recall the floats are a lot closer to level than in Dingy's 1st pic. You should check them wet after you set them.
  24. MiCarl
    Here is what I do. That line they have you measuring to on the float bowl is the level of the jet needle. The same point is in the center of the diaphragm cover, which you can locate by striking diagonal lines through the mounting screws. Measure down from the center of the X and mark your spot. I think you'll find it's just about the same height as where the screw bosses blend into the round shape of the cover.
  25. MiCarl
    About the worst thing you can do to a battery is let it sit discharged. So, regardless of the initial problem you're probably going to need a battery. Once you have a known good battery (either a new one or the old one confirmed good) fully charge it with at most a 2 amp charger. Install the battery and attach a volt meter between the (+) and (-). Start the motorcycle and rev it up to 3,000 RPM. If your meter reads below 14V you've got a problem. First thing to check is the alternator plug. It's a white plug behind the left side cover above the transmission with 3 wires going to it. All the wires are either white or yellow. Make sure the plug is clean and in good condition. When you get that far report back and we'll guide you from there.
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