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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. Don't the cover bolts screw into the cam bearing caps? If so, you can remove the cap and get it out where you can work on it. The caps are part of the head, don't mess it up. MUST use torque wrench to reinstall the cam caps.
  2. The mic lead is inside the "center" ground and that ground is for the mic. The wires you want are red, white and the outside shield for the common. The common for the earphones is on pin 2. L/R audio is on pins 3 and 5. The lead from pin 2 goes to the case on your audio jack. That'll be the outside braid, if you're using a shielded cable. Don't know off hand the convention for L/R on the other two.
  3. You pump the air out before measuring. I think it's in the service manual, but not sure. What you're really trying to measure is the amount of air in the forks. You want it to be the same so the spring rate is the same on both sides. If there is air hidden down in the fork measuring from the top won't tell you how much air you have in the system. When you put the spring in the volume of air is reduced by the volume of the spring. That's why you might need to start with more air (lower fluid level) if you're putting in a spring that displaces more volume than a stock spring. A fork that's been in service shouldn't have any trapped air. The correct oil level is the same you start out with on the initial fill.
  4. That's pretty good advice. Every one of us makes mistakes. Unless you can grasp "why" something should be done/not done you're at risk of being a guinea pig.
  5. Since ethanol gets fewer mpg isn't it like putting a little more Coke in your whiskey? Modern fuel injected vehicles have oxygen sensors, air mass measurement sensors, throttle position sensors, knock sensors and computerized fuel delivery and timing. Whatever blend you run through them should work, so long is it doesn't fall outside the parameters of the electronics and controls. A carburetor on the other hand is designed to mix precise amounts of gasoline and air. Start mixing other stuff in and it just won't work as efficiently as it was designed. Then there is the issue as to whether the components in the fuel system are ethanol compatible.
  6. Yep. That air trapped at top is like having an additional spring. Less air=stiffer, more=softer. Some forks specify an oil level range so you can tweak the spring rate. Not necessary with air assist.
  7. I agree with Snaggletooth - the cracks are very unlikely to be deep enough to cause a problem. He's also told you how to test them. I prefer a bit o starting ether to WD-40, but you need to remember both are flammable and should be used judiciously. You can also use plain old water but it'll only change the idle if you get it in the leak.
  8. Congrats! However I must inform you that not all of that weight is "lost". Some of it has been found right here.
  9. Exactly. Most Yamaha street bikes use a straight cut gear set for the primary drive. They're strong and maintenance free but are noisier than a chain primary. I have yet to run across one I couldn't hear. None of the ones I've been around/ridden bothered me. There may be some that are excessively noisy, or the sound itself may be more annoying to some people than it is to me. You needn't ride one far to see if it's a problem. I had someone drop a Tour Deluxe (same drive train) off at my shop yesterday and I could hear it as he came around to the overhead door. I can hear my 89, and I think most others, in neutral at about 3KRPM. Make a test ride a requirement for any you buy. Carburetors really aren't an issue unless you neglect them. Let them sit a long time with stale fuel and they'll gum up. While FI is less susceptible it can happen there too. Make sure you treat the gas with a stabilizer and run it into the carbs before long idle periods and they should be fine. The powertrain used in the Venture was introduced in 1983. It was good out the gate, and the few issues it had have been resolved for at least 20 years. It's bullet proof.
  10. The huge drawback to chain drives is that they require a lot of maintenance and periodic replacement. As a chain wears the links effectively get longer and that causes excess wear on the sprockets. About the only way you can avoid sprockets is to replace chains at the first signs of stretching. Even then, the sprockets will have a bit of wear and the new chain will wear faster. The key to infrequent replacement is to keep the chain cleaned, lubed and adjusted. An O-ring chain will be more forgiving of neglect. Chains and sprockets from the OEM are outrageous $$. I suggest going aftermarket. You've got a pretty good aftermarket supplier in Livonia called Allied Leisure. Their phone number is eight hundred, five two one - 6848.
  11. In some states getting a title for something is quite a bit easier than you describe for TN. There are businesses that do that for people in your situation. Basically, you send them some $$ and they send you a title (and maybe plates). Then you transfer the title to TN just as if you'd bought it. Might be easier than swapping frames..... Here is one I found. I haven't used them. Here in Michigan you can get a title pretty much just by asking nicely.
  12. It's very likely the carbs. Not many who know how or are patient enough to do them properly.
  13. They're pressed in. You can fight it out with pliers. Tap new one in with soft faced mallet.
  14. It's just a vent. There is literally a cone with a hole in the side of it and a hat on top to keep water out. If it's weeping it isn't your problem. There is some problem with the final drive (too much oil?).
  15. You don't have to run it dry to get mileage. Just top it off, ride 50 miles, fill up and do the math. The capacity is a bit over 5 gallons so you then should have an idea your range.
  16. That thing was burning like a 2nd gen with a car tire!
  17. It's supposed to come on when the gauge reads "E". You can check it by removing the seat and disconnecting the sender wires at the top of the fuel tank.
  18. I think you're right. Not sure there is enough depth for an aftermarket radio with the amp in the stock location.
  19. You need to buy gas to see. On my 89 when the gauge reads 1/2 I haven't used more than 1/3rd. I answered your other post.
  20. I switched out my CMU before last season. It seems to go down a bit slower than the old one. I buy gas when the red light comes on. I don't think I've ever put more than 3.5 gallons in.
  21. I've got the Harbor Freight hydraulic lift and the ProCycle DT. Both of them have needed some minor tweaks because the made in China quality control isn't stellar. On balance I think the ProCycle is the better value. The ProCycle has an L shaped clamp that makes it simpler to load the motorcycle without help tying it down. The drawback is the height of the L clamp won't let you load a motorcycle with a low fender or bags (Venture) backward. Generally I use the ProCycle and only use the Harbor Freight for light bikes or when I need to work on the front of something like the Venture. The ProCycle DT is HERE. The Blackjack 1000 is worth its weight in gold - pop the extra $$.
  22. So you'll train the guy following you that your brake light coming on doesn't necessarily mean you're slowing or stopping. Then when you hit the brakes he might not react to the light. Personally, when I'm slowing I put enough foot on the pedal to light the brake light.
  23. 90PSI is low, but it should light with ether. Have you tried a different plug? Fuel fouled plugs won't fire UNLESS there's another open, like a poor ground laying it up against the head. Screw them in and they're shorted out.
  24. I think RedRider has it nailed. With everything you're running the fact that the battery isn't dieing indicates the charging system is probably A-OK. Putting it in gear adds some drag, even with the clutch pulled. Not surprising if the voltage drops a bit. As the battery charges the voltage will come up. I have seen something similar testing charging systems. Some voltage regulators actually drop the voltage a bit as RPM goes up. I have no idea why they do this, but it appears to be completely normal. My guess is that you're getting green lights when the system voltage is relatively high and everything is probably fine at 2 yellow. Be interesting to put a volt meter at the battery and compare it to the light.
  25. I've never hunted squirrel, but my impression was that the purpose of the shotgun is to remove the squirrel from the tree so you didn't have to chase it.
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