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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    A very lean condition can cause that. Look for vacuum leaks.
  2. MiCarl
    I just did a probe eliminator for someone. It looked to me like the resistor in the probe was 6800 ohm - I guess I misread the multiplier. Anyhow, since I'd read 1-2K to eliminate the probe and assumed the 6800 was still used I replaced everything with a 10K to a switched (+). The CMS was happy. If I really messed up then the CMS is content to see a lot more resistance than the stock resistor provides.
  3. MiCarl
    Couple more thoughts for you: Transmitting on high power? Can do weird things if the receiver is close by. Antennas switched? CB antenna (the one with the loading coil) should be on the left.
  4. MiCarl
    I think the pressure sensor is with the valve block under the trunk. And it quite likely isn't the cause of your E4 error. The connector on the back of the controller is soldered to a circuit board, and there is nothing close to mechanically support it. As it flexes it cracks the solder joints between the plug and the board. Unless you have really good eyes you won't be able to see the crack. This condition often throws the E4 error. I suggest you open the controller and re-solder the connector. The good news is it's easier and cheaper than the pressure sensor. Bad news is you already own a new pressure sensor....... **EDIT** I just checked the book. Pressure sensor screws into the valve body which is under the trunk.
  5. MiCarl
    First rule of carburetor service: 1) Keep carburetor cleaner off the rubber parts, particularly the diaphragms. It will damage the rubber, and may take some time to become apparent. I've seen 30 year old diaphragms that looked like new, and almost new ones that were degraded and shot. I'm pretty well convinced that bad diaphragms are often the result of carburetor cleaner. If you've got "gunk" on the slide it's quite likely that the internals of the carburetor are also full of "gunk".
  6. MiCarl
    I grew up in the Akron area. We had garter snakes and an occasional black snake. Never heard of any other kind of snake in Ohio.
  7. MiCarl
    Nope. Put it in whichever direction you fancy.
  8. MiCarl
    I just made a sensor bypass for a customer. The lead on the sensor also has a resistor and as I recall it was in the 6K ohm range. I replaced the whole lead and used a 10K resistor. All was well.
  9. MiCarl
    If you put the snake outside what will eat the mice in the bedroom?
  10. MiCarl
    120/90-18 is the size. 65 is the load index and H is the speed rating. I don't know if there are any modern 120/90-18s with a 65 load index, most are higher. You can safely go up. The tire I run is a 120/90-18 71H which I think is a typical rating in that size. By the way, the Elite III is a MR90-18 which is the same size, just a different measuring system.
  11. MiCarl
    Do you mean you completely disassembled everything except the float valve seat? Cleaned every jet and orifice so carburetor cleaner would flow through? Set the float levels? If not, you need to clean them again.
  12. MiCarl
    You mean they took an arm and two of his legs?
  13. MiCarl
    Somehow I'm coming up short on the trashy women part of motorcycling. Where do I go for a refund?
  14. MiCarl
    Here is the assembly sequence: Rebound spring on damper rod Damper rod and rebound spring through inner fork tube so damping rod protrudes from bottom. Fork spring, washers and spacers - fork cap loosely installed to hold it together Invert inner fork tube so damping rod points up. Install wave washer - flat washer - wave washer on end of damping rod Install oil lock (top hat?) over damping rod. Lower outer tube over the assembly and bolt together.
  15. MiCarl
    It's all about managing risk. If we all drove and rode 15mph or less there would be very few highway injuries or fatalities. Most of us are willing to trade some extra risk to save time. Our speed laws reflect that. Some people think a motorcycle is too risky under any circumstance. If they got to make the rules we wouldn't be driving up insurance rates by riding motorcycles at all. Personally, I always wear a full face helmet, armor, gloves and boots. Anything less is more risk than I'm willing to take. Some people feel that they are appropriately managing risk with a t-shirt and half helmet - something I wouldn't consider doing. But, fortunately for them, I only get to make the rules for me. Now people that want no gear whatsoever have the right to decide for themselves. While I wouldn't do it I defend their right to make their own decision. Anything less would be hypocritical because I don't want the 15MPH or no motorcycle crowd making my decision for me.
  16. MiCarl
    Getting the damping rod and oil lock lined up can be a challenge. It seems easiest if you reinstall the damping rod, spring and spacers in the tube. I like to put the cap on to keep it all from falling back out. Then assemble the oil lock on the end and lower the outer tube over it. It still probably won't be lined up. I use a pick but you could also stick a piece of stiff wire or small screw driver through the bolt hole to move the end of the damping rod to where it lines up.
  17. MiCarl
    I too have enjoyed the view of pavement going by the visor while the armor protected my hide. I just can't imagine the view being any better without the lid, I always wear it.
  18. MiCarl
    I used to manage a RadioShack store. From time to time they'd pull all of a discontinued product from the stores to fill a customer order. They do that because they want them gone. They also give a discount on components if you buy in quantity. If you call their 800 number they will route the call to your local district sales office based on the caller ID. The District Sales Administrator should be able to help you out. Having said all that, you can probably find the same component for less elsewhere.
  19. MiCarl
    What did you pay for? I thought they bribed people to come to the pitch.
  20. MiCarl
    My understanding is once you own one you can't give it away. This means you'll be paying fees until the day you die.
  21. MiCarl
    That's a dual rate spring - wound close together at the top and spread out at bottom. On a Progressive the spacing changes across the length, rather than the instant transition. The stock spring is dual rate.
  22. MiCarl
    I can't think of any way to do it where it wouldn't flash when you had the turn signal on but not the brakes. **EDIT** Jeff sneaked in ahead of me, and I see what he's got in mind. Seems like it'd be easier to just add a 5th wire.........
  23. MiCarl
    Hard to know from the information you provided what is going on. The way the transmission works it can be tricky to change gears on a stationary bike, especially with the engine running. Turn the key on but do not start the motorcycle. Also leave the clutch lever alone. Rock the bike back and forth while trying to shift to neutral. If it won't go to neutral or second you've likely got a problem with your linkage or the shift sector.
  24. MiCarl
    I assume you're talking about the pinion on the 2nd gen final? You shouldn't be able to do that. What is its history? Has the pinion nut been off? If the nut isn't torqued down it'll have slop in it. The nut is staked on so it needs to be replaced if it's been removed.
  25. MiCarl
    Middle gear and final drive lash problems will groan like an old dump truck on a hill. What you're describing sounds more like a U-joint to me. Somethings not right though. Should feel way tighter than a chain drive.
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