MiCarl

The parts fiche shows DPR8EA-9. Leroy is correct, that number is the heat range. If I remember correctly, an 8 will be a cooler plug than a 7. I agree with him that in most circumstances it's unlikely to make a difference.

Popping on decel can be exhaust leaks or a problem with the air cut off valves.

Remember too that if the battery is at all discharged the voltage will take awhile to rise. So if you've just started out or were stopped for a long time it might not pop up like after a quick stop with a fully charged battery.

Nope. But I'm pretty sure it wasn't his brain.

If the machine is out of adjustment or the operator doesn't set it properly it's useless. Your method will work as long as gravity works, and if gravity fails your tires being balanced will be low on your list of worries.

I'll agree that most of the balancing seems to be for the wheel, rather than the tire. In my shop we find the heavy spot on a tubeless rim rather than assuming it's at the valve. Often that is still the heavy spot after mounting a tire with its light spot there. When the heavy spot on the assembly does move it generally requires very little weight to bring it back in balance. Based on what I see come in the door most riders are unable to tell by feel if the tires are balanced or not. When they think they have a balance problem it's generally the wheel or tire.

All other arguments pro and con aside I've always wondered why Yamaha, Honda etc. spend money balancing tires at the factory if they could get away throwing a hand full of what is essentially sand in the tires. Presumably their engineers have a problem with that.

D = Royale U = 1988 C = California emissions. So your motorcycle will be an XVZ13U or XVZ13UC. They'll be identical except for the California one will have a carbon canister to recycle hydrocarbons from the carburetor vents and maybe the carburetor jetting. I've never seen a California Venture but I wouldn't be surprised if they have a sticker somewhere stating they meet California emission standards.

Talked to my neighbor this afternoon. She'd gone to the store and bought a "beautiful hydrangea" in a pot. When she got home she took the pot out of the car and went into the house for 1/2 hour to cool off before planting. When she came back out the plant had been eaten. The best part: While she was telling me this there was a deer standing by her car waiting to see if any more goodies came out. Mrs. just looked out the window. The deer are on my neighbor's front walk cleaning out the flower bed.

Use your thumbnails and FORCE the ring out of its groove. Fork will then come through the tree.

The problem with the Wal-Mart stores by me is you can't count on them having something from one day to the next. I'll go to one for oil and filter. Filter but not the oil. Go to another and that one has oil but no filter. When they do have things it's hard to predict just where they might be. Drives me nuts.

My wife has electric fence to keep Bambi out of her garden.

Yep. Their shipping boxes say Boats.net, Partzilla.com and a bunch of other names they use.

My comment was based on this:

There is no reason not to use a clip link. If you install it properly it'll be just fine. One thing the video doesn't mention - the closed end of the clip needs to point in the direction the chain rotates. That helps insure the clip doesn't pop off if something bumps it (piece of clothing, road debris etc.). I'm more concerned about the quality of the chain you got. X-ring chains normally come pre-lubed. In fact, I'm not sure it's possible to adequately lubricate any o-ring chain after the links are riveted. The whole point of the o-ring is to keep the lubricant in and dirt out, it'll be quite content to keep any lubricant applied after the fact out. You shouldn't need any special tool to do a clip link chain. It makes it easier to both cut the chain and press the side on the master link but there are other ways to skin those cats.

Here is an old diagram I made on wiring Wolo horns. On my bike each horn has its own relay.

I think the manual must be in error. The CLASS only is powered with the key on the ACC position. Also, the bad solder joints are very difficult to see with the naked eye. The article says to inspect with a magnifying glass. I would just assume some are cracked and re-flow all of them.

If your horn is working at all the problem isn't with triggering the relay. Its with power from the relay to the horn or to ground. I found with Wolo horns a minimum of 14 gauge wire is beneficial.

I don't disagree that a fan would cause it to cool more. Presumably the engineers get out their fingers and toes and calculate that they have enough cooling without.

My thinking is that they are ALL air cooled. Some dump the heat directly to the environment and others use a liquid to move the heat to a radiator where the heat is dumped. If you can get enough surface area on the engine (fins) adding the fluid, radiator, pump, plumbing etc. are a waste of money and weight. Also, generally simpler to service because all that plumbing isn't in there. On a V-Twin you can get air all the way around the cylinder and head so there is lots of surface area to dump heat to the air. On a V-4 air cannot circulate around the cylinders so carrying the heat away with a liquid is a must.

I had no idea there was such a thing. I'll be cleaning Tractor Supply out before they get banned. Thanks for posting.

If it's a fork seal it'll be leaking at the seal - where the inner passes into the outer. It'll gather dirt leaving dirty rings on the inner fork tube and an oily dirty mess running down the outer. Your pictures are down at the axle/caliper so can't see those areas. What I can see of the outer fork tube doesn't seem to have any oil. The drop hanging from your caliper looks pretty clean for fork oil with miles on it. Unless the forks have recently been rebuilt I'd suspect it's brake fluid. ** LOOKING BACK AT YOUR PICTURES IT LOOKS LIKE THERE MIGHT BE BRAKE FLUID PUDDLED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ANTI-DIVE BLEED NIPPLE. IS IT SNUG? **

For self driving vehicles to be truly effective the road will need to be the exclusive domain if the machines. That means: No vehicles (including motorcycles) with human operators. No bicycles. No pedestrians.

There are Federal mandates for the amount of renewables as a percentage of highway fuel. It's very difficult for gasoline distributors to meet those requirements without blending ethanol into the fuel. Now days even the environmental lobby recognizes that using ethanol as a motor fuel is a bad idea. But there is a pretty big ethanol lobby resisting any change. Adding ethanol is also a cheap way to boost the octane of gasoline. I've never bought into the assumption many make that premium gasoline is by its nature ethanol free. Here in Michigan a pump doesn't need to be labeled as containing ethanol for blends of 10% or less. So it's not easy to find out which fuel is ethanol free. The only thing I know to do is anytime a motorcycle (or any piece of carbureted piece of equipment) is going to sit for a week or more is to make sure the fuel is treated (I use Sta-bil) and the tank is fuel to reduce moisture uptake.

They're not hard to do if you know what you're doing. They do take some time to do right. Taking shortcuts means you're almost certain to have to redo them.