Jump to content

MiCarl

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,442

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    25 years ago the guy who filled my drinks in Dearborn (just East of Detroit) said his solution for Detroit was to arm everyone and after a week put the man left standing in jail. I think this is the last week they have money to pay the police.
  2. MiCarl
    I forgot to mention earlier: I believe the maximum pressure for a D404 is 40 PSI. Check your side wall.
  3. MiCarl
    Same here, at least at freeway speed. Never compared at other speeds.
  4. MiCarl
    At some point I calculated the weight distribution on a first gen. I cannot quickly find the post but as I recall it was about 30/70 front/rear. I also figured that the rider was pretty much over the center of gravity so his weight is also 30/70. Passenger and stuff in bags is about 100% rear. Weight in trunk actually shifts weight from the front to the rear a bit (-10/110 or so). So a 1000 lb bike/rider combo puts about 700 lbs. on the rear. You don't need much in the bags or on the pillion to go over 761 lbs. I figure that with SWMBO and her possessions on board we're close to 900 on the rear. Not many tires in 1st gen size that are rated for that much load.
  5. MiCarl
    If the problem were at the starter it wouldn't wipe out everything else. It's going to be near the battery. Put your volt meter on the battery and hit the start button. If the voltage drops below 10 your problem is the battery. If it stays up you have a connection problem. Mine's got so much extra stuff wired on at the battery I'm unsure where the (+) gets distributed to the accessory circuits. Somebody should know though. That distribution point is a likely suspect, as is where the (-) battery cable attaches to the frame/engine.
  6. MiCarl
    That's not really a jet - more of a mixture screw. I don't see any way you could drill out to where there were only two turns without drilling away most of the screw. I'd pull the screw. On it are a spring, flat washer and o-ring (in that order). Use a piece of fine bent wire to fish those parts out if they don't come with the screw (rig a white rag under your area to help make sure you don't lose the tiny washer and o-ring). The screw should have a long needle tip on it, almost sharp enough to prick your skin. If it's blunt you've broken it off in the carburetor and you have big troubles. Look in the hole. You should see it threaded more than the threaded length of the screw. Blow some compressed air in there to clear any debris. Assemble the spring, flat washer and o-ring on the screw. The o-ring will hold it all together. A bit of light oil (WD-40, PB-blaster, sewing machine oil, etc.) on the screw isn't a bad idea. Reinstall it. DO NO TURN IT MORE THAN YOU EASILY CAN WITH ONE FINGER AND YOUR THUMB ON A SMALL SCREW DRIVER. YOU DON'T WANT TO WEDGE THAT NEEDLE INTO THE SEAT! If the carbs are off the bike you can feel that needle poking into the carburetor throat when the screw is fully seated.
  7. MiCarl

    diaphragm size

    MiCarl replied to joboo's topic in Watering Hole

    I work on a lot of 30 year old bikes. Rarely replace a diaphragm.
  8. MiCarl
    We'll have blank forms. If you want to complete yours in advance to save time Saturday it is HERE. I hope you guys can make it, I missed seeing you for MD.
  9. MiCarl
    I agree, carburetor overfilled. Not a diaphragm. You can also close the fuel cock and run the motorcycle until it dies. Turn fuel back on and try it again. Draining the bowls down then turning the fuel on causes a rush of fuel past the needles that can flush debris away.
  10. MiCarl

    diaphragm size

    MiCarl replied to joboo's topic in Watering Hole

    If the OD isn't right they won't work. Of course the ID has to be right too. Is there something wrong with your current diaphragms? Personally I don't think they fail that young unless someone douses them with carb cleaner. These folks also sell diaphragms, but I don't know if any they have will work with your carburetors. They do seem to have recently added a Venture diaphragm, but I suspect 1st gen. by the size.
  11. MiCarl
    Ok, time for a shameless plug....... Why don't you guys come by Rosenau Saturday at 10:00 for the STAR Touring meeting? Afterwards we're riding to Adrian for lunch then to Dundee for ice cream. Should be a fun day.
  12. MiCarl
    Find yourself a good welder and a shoulder bolt. Should be good for the next 25 years......
  13. MiCarl
    The reason Yamaha put it where they did is because it needs airflow to keep it cool. It can dissipate a lot of heat.
  14. MiCarl
    They probably haven't sold one from the parts warehouse in the last 10 years. 95% of the ones in service could fail and no one would ever notice.
  15. MiCarl
    275 around Cincinnati is a good idea. Only change I would make is you should exit at SR42 before 71 and go have some Skyline Chili with Yama Mama:lightbulb:
  16. MiCarl
    It almost has to be fork oil. Brake fluid would be all over the caliper too. The fork oil drain is visible in the top of your picture, check that. There is also a bolt into the damping rod through the bottom that could be leaking. I just had a V-max in my shop that had oil on the bottom of the fork but not up at the seals. Assumed it was the damping rod bolt. Turned the thing had been down in a previous life and a crack had opened on the wheel side of the lower tube.
  17. MiCarl
    In the pictures all four slides are in the up position. They should be closed sitting on a bench. Something not right.
  18. MiCarl
    Same pads all around.
  19. MiCarl
    The whine people talk about is the primary gear set (crankshaft to clutch basket). Yamaha uses straight cut gears which are inherently noisy. They're also very durable. On my 89 the sound is more of a whistle at about 3K rpm. Not an issue for me. If you don't have an annoying whine or whistle that is independent of load don't worry about it. If there is an annoyance a different oil or replacing the clutch basket may make it more tolerable.
  20. MiCarl
    Yes. Maybe, maybe not. Worst thing that can happen is it fails and you have to replace it. Depending on how lucky you feel and how far you ride you might wait and see instead of laying down big $$ now. What IS a MAJOR concern is the condition of the electrical connectors. In the picture they look a bit burnt. Make sure you clean them up and crimp the females a bit so they are good and tight. Very common for these connectors to burn up. Same with the plug from the stator which is behind the left cover - 3 white wires. I would. Probably going to be hard to get a single picture with all the information you need. The back plate for the passenger footrest should be vertical. Otherwise match to the right side. I prefer EBC because they are a quality pad and cost less than OEM. The EBC part number for organic pads is FA123, sintered pads are FA123HH. If you're interested in performance you might prefer sintered. Personally, I find the organic adequate and they're easier on the rotor.
  21. MiCarl
    I do a lot of carburetors. Sometimes I use a colortune plug, but that's not very practical where the spark plugs are buried like the Venture. What I do to set low speed mixture is attach a digital tachometer and set the idle speed (1000 in the case of the Venture). I start with one carburetor and back the mixture screw out watching for an RPM increase. If it only goes down you started too far out and need to screw in until the RPM rises then begins to fall - then start backing it out again. As I back the screw out I watch for the idle to fall, then turn it back in so the idle is at its peak. Reset the idle stop screw to 1000 RPM and repeat for the remaining carburetors. If you had to back the idle stop screw off a lot as you worked it is probably worth going 'round a second time. By the way, a well running synced Venture will pull about 10" vacuum. If you're seeing less then it's not running right.
  22. MiCarl
    If you only replace the rider cable the passenger attenuator will still function. So you can crank it up and she can turn hers down.
  23. MiCarl
    The little knob labeled "H-PH ATT" lets the rider or passenger reduce his headset volume. The maximum volume is set by the rider with the radio, CB, and intercom controls. Then either the rider or passenger can use the attenuator knob to turn their personal volume down. I'm willing to bet that they are rarely used.
  24. MiCarl
    The stock cable has taps for the volume attenuators on the little gray control box. The cable from Sierra does the job but you lose the attenuator function. I replaced my rider cable with one of the Sierra cables and have no complaints. At some point I sold the extra to someone else with the same problem.
  25. MiCarl
    I'll double down on the advice to stay away from Chinese. I get them in the shop occasionally and the quality is abysmal. I refuse to do anything that might be safety related because I don't want to inherit liability for the junk. I do lots of valve lash adjustments - they are so bad they often stop running at 900 miles with valves too tight. The Japanese make quality scooters, but you'll have to open the wallet.
×
×
  • Create New...